By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Alexandria, VA: It was a pleasure to meet you last night at Barnes&Noble!

My bone to pick with restaurant world this week has to do with clearly distinguishing a garnish from a side dish. Saturday we went to one of our new local favorites, and I ordered a salmon special which was listed as being "served on a bed of risotto, accompanied by Brussels sprouts"--quite similar to the language they use to indicate their other chosen side dishes. WELL! When the plate arrived, there was a phenomenally huge filet of salmon--perfectly grilled and enough for two--crowning a sea of rice, with two Brussels sprouts cut in quarters garnishing the plate. Thoughts?

Phyllis Richman: Hello and welcome to another meeting of the no-lunch bunch.

Indeed, I was at BArnes and Noble in Alexandria last night, but I was talking about mysteries rather than food (or more accurately, in addition to food). It was great fun, at least for mystery fans like me.

In recent years, restaurants are doing a lot better with vegetables. They are often fresh and the choices range farther than the old inevitable zucchini. But some restaurants do use them more for decoration than satisfaction, and that is always worth a comment to the management. I'm sure a restaurant would rather lose a couple more brussels sprouts than lose a customer.

Steve in McLean: The waves of immigration usually dictate the newest ethnic cuisine in the area, although they may hit other US cities slightly ahead of DC. In your travels you must have experienced some types that have not opened in our area in large numbers, if at all. What countries will be bringing their foods and cultures to DC in the coming year, and what ingredients/spices/dishes are essential to these types of cooking?

Phyllis Richman: Lately I've seen Tibetan food added to the 50-lus ethnicities in Washington area restaurants.

Last week someone asked about Cambodian restaurants, and one reader out there kindly sent some additional answers to that question. There is a Cambodian restaurant called Pphnom Penh (she wasn't sure of the spelling) on University Blvd at Piney Branch in th eod Fontana Bowlarama, which is now an Asian market. ANd a few blocks away on Univ. Blvd. is a market called Angkor WAt, which might know of more.

Washington, D.C.: Who in town, would you say, has the best Hot Chocolate?

Phyllis Richman: In my experience, that honor goes to Patisserie Cafe Didier, which has changed its name to Xavier & Bruno. It's on Grace St. in Georgetown.

DC: Like one of the participants last week, I'm headed to NYC. I'd like to check out the Indian fusion trend. Any suggestions? (I've heard good things about a place called Raga.)

Phyllis Richman: I just tried the most talked-about new Indian fusion restaurant in New York. It's Tabla, a perfectly gorgeous place opened by Danny Meyer of Union Square Cafe and Gramercy TAvern. It's too new to be definitive about, and I was only there once. It need some honing; the entrees, in particular, still taste a bit of a mishmash of experimentation. But some of it was excellent, especially the grilled quail appetizer and the breads. The breads are available as cocktail nibbles, along with glamorous drinks made with pomegranates and such, in the cafe downstairs. The most interesting aspect of Tabla so far is the dessert selection. This pastry chef is brilliant, I think, and the frozen cream dessert, kulfi, is one of the best desserts I can remember.

I also went to Cafe Boulud, Daniel Boulud's revamped restaurant (not to be confused with his new Daniel restaurant). It was truly wonderful, though don't confuse it with a place with cafe prices. It is as expensive as our top restaurants here. But never was seviche so refined, nor short ribs so dark and rich and luscious. I could go on....

Arlington, VA: I was contemplating Lespinasse(DC) for a special birthday dinner I have seen good reviews of the new chef. Insights, Suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: Check this site tomorrow, when my Sunday review of Lespinasse will be posted.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis,

There's nothing that I love more than going out to eat (I'm from the SF Bay Area, maybe that's why!). My problem is I am young and don't make a lot of money, and so many restaurants in the DC area are so expensive. What are your favorite less expensive restaurants in the area? Keep in mind that $20 for dinner is pretty much my limit, and is still quite hard on my budget.

Phyllis Richman: There are so many. Try Caravan, Cafe Ole, Eat First, Haad Thai, Nam Viet, Old Glory, Rio GRand Cafe, Sala Thai, Zuki Moon. And check out list in my dining guide book--which should be on-line on this site shortly if it's not already here.

Arlington, VA: Never too early to start planning, I see that Valentine's Day is on a Sunday this year. What recommendations do you have for two in Olde Town Alexandria?

Phyllis Richman: My perennial recommendation: Buy some lovely foods that you like (there is a Sutton Place Gourmet in Alexandria, and other good food shops as well), and eat at home by candlelight, with the background music of your choice and a bottle of champagne. Then, another night, declare it a personal Valentines Day and dine out at a romantic spot on the money you saved from going out on one of the most crowded (and most expensive) nights of the year.

Rockville, MD: I found a few restaurants (great and small) in Phoenix that recommend wine-by-the-glass for each item on the menu. As a budding wine lover, this was incredibly helpful and I'm sure its profitable for the establishment. Can you recommend any restaurants that offer this advice in this area? Bon sante!

Phyllis Richman: Restaurants with fixed-price menus often do this. But if you are in a restaurant that really cares about wine, it will undoubtedly have a good selection of wines by the glass, and the sommelier will happily recommend a particular glass for each course. That's the kind of thing that sommeliers are there to do, after all.

Arlington, VA: I've seen chefs and restaurant owners post here every so often, and I was wondering if you had heard if alot of other restauranteurs read your chat to see what's going on. If I owned a restaurant, I know I would.

Phyllis Richman: I have heard that some chefs sign on to this (though obviously noon is not the best time for a chef to do so, and often they read it after the lunch service is over). I'd be glad to hear from chefs or restaurateurs who have signed on, and introduce them to the rest of you.

Bethesda, Maryland: Phyllis,

You mentioned grilled quail in one of your earlier comments. I have a friend back home in Mississippi who grills a mean quail(something that I miss desperately). Is there a restaurant in this area that serves good quail dishes?

Phyllis Richman: Many restaurants do, and some of the best are Thai or Vietnamese. Check out the appetizer sections of those restaurants.

georgetown: Ms. Richman-

I've been writing a column reviewing area restaurants for the Georgetown Hoya for the past four months. Although I've gotten favorable feedback, I find difficulty in drawing the line between professionalism and writing to a specific audience -- the college crowd. Also in reviewing I find it hard to assert that a restaurant is not good -- why write a review about a lousy meal? I've got a lot of other questions, but am mainly interested in advice you might have about what people are looking for in a review and how best to be objective but critical and honest? Thanks.
Doug Snyder

Phyllis Richman: I don't see any conflict in writing for a particular audience or in being objective but also being critical and honest. The reason for writing about a restaurant you find fault with is to warn people about a place they might know about and want to try, or to help them to find the best parts of a flawed restaurant. I wouldn't write about an unknkown restaurant that was bad unless it had some lesson to be learned or had something that made it worth putting up with its deficiencies. But keep in mind that your audience and the reason for your reviews is the diner. Your job is to help that diner to dine out well. Being over-generous to restaurants doesn't do that diner a service.

old town alexandria, va: Phyllis,

What food/wine trend that we are being subjected to now will you miss the least?

Phyllis Richman: wraps

Wash DC: I was sorry to see Blue Plate close its doors after only a short time there. I was looking for your opinion. I am thinking of getting into the restaurant business and I think that that block of P Street is a prime location but with the demise of Nan King, El Caminante and Blue Plate (all of whom shared the same location) is that address taboo? I think something like the new Duplex Diner (located on 18th Street) would do very well there.

Thank you!

Phyllis Richman: Note that the same block of P Street is also home to the phenomenally popular Pizzeria Paradiso and Pesce as well as Obelisk. Cafe Japone and Sala Thai are perennials there. And the old Blue Plate site is being taken over by Ann Cashion and her partner for a down-home seafood restaurant called Johnny's Half Shell. Coming in spring.

Washington, DC: About good quail dishes, I looove the tender quails stuffed with fresh but tasty cheese at Lavandou (any idea when it'll open again?). Also good are the quail appetizer at Nam Viet Pho 75 in Cleveland park and the grilled quails at L'auriol Plaza.

Phyllis Richman: Thank you, these are excellent suggestions. I don't know when Lavandou is reopening, but my guess is it won't' be long.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,
If there was anyone who's opinion I ever fully trust without question...
I once heard that you should never eat sushi on a monday--as that's the day before the new fish order is delivered. Is this true?

Phyllis Richman: Yes and no. By dinnertime, the fresh fish orders ought to have arrived, but if any day is going to be weak in fresh fish, it will be Monday. Some sushi parlours aren't even open on Monday. Still, a good sushi place will only serve fish when it is very fresh, so if you trust the place you should be able to trust it every day it is open.

Rockville, MD: The nice thing about menus that include recommended wines-by-the-glass is that you don't have to pay $75-$150 per person enjoy the benefit of a sommelier. I was never happier than dropping into a small restaurant for lunch and having two glasses of spectacularly paired wine with a cheese sampler and asparagus salad! (The math is that it increases a tab 30-40% and takes no more time.) If restauranteurs are indeed tuning in, I hope they keep this in mind. (And don't forget the cheese!!)

Phyllis Richman: I'll just add my thanks for the note and pass it on to whatever restaurateurs are tuned in.

Washington, DC: Quick comment: Lavandou reopened in its larger reincarnation at the same site in Cleveland Park earlier this week.

Phyllis Richman: Hooray. THanks for letting us know.

Now you see how close to the ground my ears are. Sorry for being the last on the block to hear the news.

Georgetown: My husband and I had dinner at Vintage last night -- my first visit, his second -- I had a soup that the waiter informed us was created by their sous chef at the last minute because they had run out of the soup de jour. It was a fennel and apple soup, pureed and finshed with cream - it was great. Also we had a 30 dollar bottle of wine which we have paid 60 dollars elsewhere. A great experience. What do you think of 208 Talbot in St. Michaels?

Phyllis Richman: Glad to pass along your experience. Fennel and apple is indeed a fine combiniation.

I haven't been to 208 Talbot, but I have heard lots of good reports on it.

Washinton, DC: My fiance is a hot sauce collector and loves his food spicy hot. Can you recommend some good restaraunts that serve spicy food, besides the standard tex-mex places? The more adventurous the better.

Phyllis Richman: I'm not sure this is what you had in mind, but the largest collection of hot sauces I know is at Rocklands in
Glover Park. Two walls are covered with bottles you can sample with your (excellent) barbecue. Be warned, this is primarily a carryout, and there are only counter stools and one communal table.

Washington, D.C.: For the couple in Oldtown, Alexandria, if they insist on going out on Valentines day, going out, I would reccommend Gadsby's Tavern, Casablanca's, Bilbo Baggins or Il Porto in Oldtown Alexandria. Il Porto, an italian restruant, is housed in a place with some very interesting history.

Phyllis Richman: I'd add RT's, though it is not in Old Town, and suggest that of your list I'd probably choose Bilbo Baggins. Or La Bergerie. EVen better, probably, is Tempo, though it is not in Old Town either.

Annandale, VA: Hi Phyllis. I live in Annandale where, as you know, there are about a bazillion Korean restaurants. Do you have any recommendations for a newby to Korean cuisine?

Phyllis Richman: The Korean restaurant I usually go to is Hee Been. But I'd also recoment Gam Mee Oaic (esp. goat meat soup), or Yechon for its barbecue.

WDC: Eating out with a business associate (who picked up the tab) I got food poisoning. Bad, too, but not bad enough to go to the hospital. Is there any recourse? I can't stop payment on the meal but I feel like the restaurant owes me more than a shrug and a "sorry."

Phyllis Richman: Unless you have a sample of the food it is just about impossible to prove food poisoning .Furthermore, much of what diners consider food poisoning is a flu or an allergic reaction or some other kind of upset. I think there are far fewer food poisonings than there are gastric problems that are attributed to food poisoning.

On the other hand, any restaurateur should take such a complaint very seriously and investigate as well as apologize for any discomfort a diner has had. All too often the restaurateur knows it is not food poisoning (eg, nobody else who ate that food got sick) and is afraid of admitting liability, so doesn't dare come up with a simple, "I'm sorry."

washington, dc: two suggestions for very spicy food lover - good and cheap - Rendang (beef in fiery coconut -based sauce) and Belado (squid is my favorite, in a hot hot light tomato-based sauce), two mean and wonderful Indonesian dishes I found at Cafe Asia

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggestions.

Columbia Heights, DC: For the spicy food lover's wife, any decent Thai restaraunt, if you specifically ask for food spicy, will produce soups and entrees that are absolutely tongue searing & eye watering. In my experience, Thai food is much spicier than Tex-Mex.

Phyllis Richman: True, definitely.

Washington, DC: We live in old town so the recommendations are of interest (I'll cook on Valentine's Day, always do).

One of my favorites is still Le Gaulois, especially if it's a day when they have their Bouillabaise.

As for Bilbo Baggins, we used to go a lot, then had two of the worst meals ever there and stopped going about 3 years ago. What changed??

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been to Bilbo Baggins for awhile, but I am sorry to hear of your experiences.

As for Le Gaulois, how could I have forgotten it?

VIENNA VA: PHYLLIS, I HAVEN'T BEEN TO RT's IN YEARS. ARE THEY STILL AS GOOD? AND ARE THEY STILL IN THAT HOLE-IN-THE-WALL IN ALEXANDRIA?

Phyllis Richman: Yes, I think RT's is still good, and it is indeed a small and closely packed restaurant but notches above a hole-in-the-wall.

Washington, D.C.: One of my favorite Old Town restaurants is Two-Nineteen. Great New Orleans cuisine and excellent crab cakes in a semi-formal, yet comfortable atmosphere.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there in years, but have still heard positive reports.

Washington, DC: My boss is traveling to San Francisco next week -- can you recommend a good restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: Suggest your boss ask personally.

Washington, D.C.: I recently received a copy of Simple Italian Cooking by Mario Batali and I love it. Are there any Italian restaurants in the DC area with the same aesthetic as Batali and his places Po and Babbo in NYC?

Phyllis Richman: I've had dreadful food at Po-served with an attitude, too. But one of the people I dined there with has loved the food at Babbo. So I assume she's right. But I couldn't get in.

I have cooked from Batali's book, though. It's got interesting recipes, some fine and others too interesting (a little bizarre on the tongue). As for DC restaurants with that aesthetic, I'd say Coppi's comes the closest.

Rockville, MD: Do restaurateurs recognize you when you enter a restaurant? Do you disguise yourself? I've never seen your picture, but I imagine that restaurant owners know what you look like.

Also, how do you go about reviewing a restaurant -- do you give it more than one chance if the food is dicey?

Phyllis Richman: As the chatter who saw me at BArnes and Noble last night can attest, when I appear in public I wear disguises. I also make reservations in other names and never let a restaurant know I'm coming. Even so, I am often recognized in restaurants by now--a third to half the time, I'd say. So I have to account for that. I visit a restaurant several times before I review it, which gives the restaurant a chance to show its best as well as its worst and gives me a change to judge consistency as well as to try most of the menu.

Woodbridge, Va: Why don't you ever visit Sea Catch? It is the best restaurant I have EVER been to. I am Leslie Jones, publisher of Restaurant Forum Magazine.

Phyllis Richman: I have visited the Sea Catch many times, and have reviewed it some years ago. I haven't found it enough changed to justify a re-review.

As to the best restaurant I've ever been to, I'm always hoping that will be the one I'm about to visit.

Washington, D.C.: Hi Phyllis.

I work near the L'Enfant Plaza Metro station and my coworkers and I continually lament the lack of any decent lunch time options. Any opinions as to why this is such an underdeveloped area?

Phyllis Richman: It is indeed a problem. I assume that it L'Enfant is too far from downtown to get traffic other than that from its own office buildings.

Silver Spring, MD: Hi Phyllis--I am organizing a group of friends (about 12) to go out for dim sum this Sunday. Do you know of a restaurant either in the District or VA that serves good dim sum? Someone recommended Golden Palace in China Town, but they have closed for renovations. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: There are many in every part of the area. Golden Palace closed but there is dim sum at Mr. Yung's, Tony Cheng's and others in Chinatown. In the suburbs, try Fortune or Good Fortune or A & J.

Ooops, I'm out of time. I got carried away and didn't even notice the clock. Just like a great dinner.

See you next Thursday.

Alexandria, Va.: Phyliss,

To make it fair for the other 50% - how about eMailing your photo.

Thanks,
Mike@MangoMikes.com

Phyllis Richman: One postscript:

I thought your suggestion was brilliant, but my answer is a dull, dreary no.

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