By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Beltsville, MD: Friends are plannning a big birthday bash for a friends 60th birthday and want to host it at either a kitchen table or unique wine cellar. Choices so far include Galileo's kitchen table and Citronelle's kitchen table. Any other suggestions? Location should be in Washington, DC.

Phyllis Richman: We've broked the cycle. For months we've had clear and sunny Thursdays. Today we won't want to talk about sidewalk cafes, but fireplaces and sofas, mayabe Takeout Taxi.

As for restaurants with tables in the kitchen, there are ever more. I think DC Coast might have one, for example.

Arlington, Va: Phyllis - how do you feel about restaurants policy of not seating a party until every member of the party is present? I can understand not letting one person sit by himself at a table for six, sipping water while he waits, but we recently couldn't get a party of 5 seated because one person had not yet arrived. We told the hostess we would not wait for the person before we ordered, but this was not good enough. Any thoughts on the subject?

Phyllis Richman: This policy outrages me. One eveniing at Filomena Ihad to wait until my guests arrived before I could be seated, yet the dinner cost well over $60 a person. At I Ricchi, too, I ihad to stand at the crowded bar area while my reserved table sat emptywaiting for me. The worst I've heard, though, was at Cappital Grille, where a part of, I think, 5, were not seated because the 6th was on a plane sitting on therunway in Chicago. Theyfinally asked for a table for 5, and were given the same tablel but the staff insisted on taking away the sixth place setting.

I think restaurants show their worst side with this policy.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis! Is it out of bounds to ask for certain dishes without some of the ingredients or sides? For instance, I hate mushrooms, so if a dish contains mushrooms I'll ask for the dish without mushrooms. Sometimes this is not a problem, but in some restaurants the wait staff will tell me the chef does not like to cook it without the mushrooms, or that it affects the "integrity" of the dish to take them out. What is your feeling on the subject? Along the same lines, is it improper to ask for meat or fish cooked medium, when you're told the chef really doesn't like to cook it beyond rare? I've had waiters fight with me about getting a dish cooked to my desired level of doneness.

Phyllis Richman: Thjis varies from dish to dish. Some dishies just can't be made--or remade--without mushrooms. You've got to trust the staff on that. As for how your meat is cooked, that's your call, even if a chef disapproves of how you like it. But you must acceptp that your meat or fishi migiht not be as juicy, tender or delicious as it would be if it were cooked less. Some meats - buffalo, venision - become tough as they are cooked to themedium stage.

Fairfax, VA: I want to suggest a great little restaraunt for you to try out here in Fairfax. It's called Viet-Thai and as you can probably tell, it serves both Vietnamese and Thai food. The atmosphere is nothing to talk about but the food, especially the specials, is unbelievably good and the staff couldn't be nicer.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggestion.

A warning for all of you: The internet is slow today. The snow threat, I suppose. In any case, please be patient with the pace of my answers.

Washington, D.C.: Don't you think it's unfair to have a tip added to the bill?

Phyllis Richman: Unfair? No. In other countries it's routine. You can always have it removed if you think the service has been bad. On the other hand, since tips are rarely included in this country, I think it absolutely necessary for the waiter to remind you that tip has been added.

Alexandria, VA: My theory: in Washington, the deeper a restaurant lies underground, the better the food.

Compare Vidalia, Citronelle, or Red Sage with the Hotel Washington (?) rooftop (next to the white house) or the top-floor whirling restaurant thing over in Virginia.

Where can you go to get good food and a great view?

Phyllis Richman: Interesting point. Usually a downstairs location is considered to be a deficit. So maybe these restaurants realize they have to try extra-hard. As for rooftops, I haven't found a good one in this city.

capitol hill: I like to frequent the restaurants on your favorite 50 list, but I must confess that when I try "authentic" Chinese food these days it tastes, well, greasy. Is this a trade-off I have to get used to, or are there Chinese restaurants that manage to retain the flavor of the cuisine without all the oil?

Phyllis Richman: That varies from restaurant to restaurant and even from dish to dish, depending on which cook is behind your wok.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis--My husband and I went to Afghan Restaurant in Alexandria earlier this week and really enjoyed it. We both love Afghan food, and found this style of food (quality notwithstanding) to be different than the food at either Khyber Pass or the old Kabul West. Is it an Afghan-regional difference, or just prep. style? Love these chats, thanks!

Phyllis Richman: The Afghan in Alexandria has a much simpler menu, mostly kebabs, and doesn't have the variety of the old Kabul West or Khyber pass. I'm far from an expert on Afghan regional styles, but I assume it is just a matter of this restaurant's style.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis,

On our way to the Caps Game last night, my boyfriend and I stumbled across one of your Cheap Eats. EAT FIRST, in China Town. The food was great! Atmosphere was not flashy , but perfect, and inexpensive. I recommend it to all!
Thanks for a good suggestion!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for your thanks. Now, was your food oily, or would it have satisfied the previous questioner?
I haven't found Eat First's food to be greasy, except those dishes (roast duck, and such) that are expected to be so.

Washington, D.C.: Phyllis,
You said that you can remove the added tip but did you not hear
about the party that was arrested for doing just that?
It happened in this town!

Phyllis Richman: Can you tell us any more about that? I'd be surprised if that is legally viable.

Washington, DC: Another policy question: When is it appropriate for a restaurant to implement a mandatory gratuity? Recently I noticed a menu stating that a 20% gratuity is included for parties of 5 or more. While it's good that this notice is on the menu, I was surprised at the policy,

Phyllis Richman: This is typical, and I think that at least a 15-17 percent tip is warranted, if not 20 percent. The reasoning is that groups tend to undertip, perhaps thinking that the amount they calculate at 20 percent sounds like too much to leave. The fact is that a large group is harder to server and takes more time, so if anything, the waiter deserves an even larger per-person tip than a small group would leave. But some diners gasp at an $80 tip for a $400 bill, so unfairly trim it away.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,
I loved your review in last week's post of bookstore cafes. Have you ever done or considered doing a review of brunch venues? What about the drag brunch at Perry's?

Phyllis Richman: The problem with doing a roundup of brunches is that since many are only on Sundays, it takes months to get to them. I've heard the drag brunch at Perry's is fun, but can't vouch for the food--or for anything.

Arlington, VA: Not really a question - just a comment. When a large group (6 or more) make a reservation, it seems only fair to ask that the group arrive on time. As a restaurant worker, I've seen it take 2 hours or more for all the members of a group to get together! It seems unreasonable for a restaurant to be forced to keep such a large table unoccupied waiting for all the members of a group to show. Having said that, it also seems silly to keep a party of 5 waiting just for one last person. Overall, I guess common sense and courtesy should prevail on BOTH sides. It just seems that over the past five years, the trend has been moving towards making the customer happy at ANY cost and as a result, restaurants go out of business!

Phyllis Richman: Your comments are well taken, and I agree that it is unfair to hold a table for an incomplete group if the rest are not going to order until a very-late arrival completes the table. The way around that is to ask that the group wait in the lounge unless they are willing to order within some reasonable time period.

As for restaurant going out of business because they lean over backwards to please customers, I don't buy it. If they are losing customers, they are obviously not pleasing them.

Potomac, MD: Hi Phyllis,

What is the etiquette for returning something back. Many times I find myself very displeased with entrees that I order but end up eating it anyway cause I dont want to complain. I dont expect the world but just wonder when might it be OK to say something...Dinner bills can really add up and I at least want to enjoy the food.
Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: This is a sticky one. If the dish is incorrectly prepared or there is something wrong with it, of course you can--and should--send it back. But if it is exactly as it is supposed to be and you just don't like it, it is unreasonable to expect the restaurant to take it back and suffer the loss. Some restaurants will do that, but I think you can't expect them to do it. They can't use the food again, and it is up to you to anticipate what you will like. In effect, you would be expecting a full refund on used merchandise.

Alexandria: We recently moved here from Tennessee. We loved going to the market to get sushi grade fish and making our own sushi at home. We thought we'd be able to do the same here but have not found anything other than tuna, which is not always sushi grade (or the clerk doesn't know). Any ideas where we can get sushi grade fish?

Phyllis Richman: Try a Japanese fish store. Or try the immense Korean supermarkets in Rockville and Virginia--their name escapes me at the moment, but the Rockville one is just east of Rockville Pike. Surely someone out there has a better memory than I. It cuts sushi fish to order.

Fairfax, Virginia: Phyllis:

When you go to restaurants, do you go many times over a week, or do you go once and sample many dishes? Is your presence anonymous, or do people know you're coming? Bascially, I'm asking questions about your process... and how you do so many great reviews without getting sick of food!

Phyllis Richman: I generally go to a restaurant three times, over a period of weeks. My guests have to order the dishes I need to taste, and I do taste them all. As for anonymity, I try for it. I make reservations in other names and have credit cards in various names, which I change from time to time. After 22 years at the Post, inevitably I find that I'm recognized at many restaurants--probably about half.
Do I get sick of food? Sometimes. For about half an hour.

Indianapolis/DC: We frequently dine out with our 87 year uncle who really can't eat certain things and hate having to beg for simple preparations for him from the service staff who understandably want to honor the integrity of a chef work. Any suggestions for communicating that this request for say a simple chicken preparation is not just whim but in deference to our uncle's age and special needs/

Phyllis Richman: The best approach would be to discuss this problem on the phone when you make your reservation. Then you could call somewhere else if the answers are not satisfactory, and the restaurant can be warned if it needs to make any special preparations.

Burke, VA: I have a question on your writing style for your reviews. Some of my friends say that it's inappropriate that you involve your personal self in your reviews so much, with the first person and the repeated observations that seem to take away from the objectivity of what a review should be. What are your thoughts on what a good restaurant review should be?

Phyllis Richman: I have mixed feelings about this. Obviously, reviews are personal: they reflect the critic's taste and viewpoint as well as the critic's first-hand experience. That said, I avoid first-person most of the time. Yet some reviews and some comments seem to demand to be first-person, seem more honest or seem to be particularly personal. Some critics, in fact, make all of their reviews first-person. It's a matter of taste. Overall, though, to think that if the writer doesn't use "I" that means he or she is more objective is naive. I'd like to hear other people's thoughts on this.

Fairfax. VA: I believe the Korean market you mentioned is at the traffic circle in Fairfax. The name escapes me now too!

Phyllis Richman: In the meantime, I've recalled the name: Lotte. This enormous market has whole tuna, yellowtail, etc, that it cuts to order for sushi. Wonderful place!

Washington, D.C.: My wife is Shanghainese. We like the Shanghainese food we find in Maryland and VA, but is there a good Shanghainese (or Taiwanese) place in D.C.?

Phyllis Richman: I have a forthcoming review of one, at the end of Jan. or beginning of FEb.

Arlington, VA: My boyfriend and I got a gift certificate for 1789, and we're planning to eat there this weekend. I hear it's pretty fancy stuff (we're in our late 20s and do the mid-grade stuff mostly). What's good there?

Phyllis Richman: It would be hard to find something that wasn't good there. A hint, though: Ask for one of the dining rooms on the first floor, either the lovely formal main dining room or the more casual cozy tavern room.

Washington, D.C.: On Xmas day, we had a delicious brunch at Shanghai Joe's on Pell St. in Manhattan featuring Shanghai steamed soup dumplings. (The restaurant was featured in yesterday's NYTimes food section, so there goes the neighborhood!) Are there any Shanghai style restaurants in the D.C. area? Why not?

Phyllis Richman: See above. Also, there is a good Shanghai restaurant in Chinatown.On the north side of H St. between 6th and 7th.

New York, NY: On this chat in the recent past you've raved about how New York right now is having a phenomenal run of great restaurants and chefs doing some earth-shattering things. I know NY's not your regular beat, but any suggestions on must-visits before these chefs are spirited off to San Francisco or other tempting culinary escapes?

Phyllis Richman: I'm off to NY today (I hope) to try a few new ones. I'm waiting for the new restaurant by Daniel Bouloud, but I hear great things about his current one, CAfe Daniel. I've marveled at the food at Jean-Georges and Nobu (though it has become a bit too much of a scene). I'm a big fan of Gramercy Tavern and am eager to try owner Danny Meyer's Tabla and 11 Madison. I've had find meals at Cena (especially the service), Union Pacific (especially the appetizers). And I''m waiting for Jean-Louis Palladin to open the first of his two new restaurants this spring.

Washington, DC: Dear Phyllis:

Like most 25 year-olds, I don't have a whole lot of money to go around for dining out. So, when I do manage my money well, I like to treat myself to something unique. You probably get this question a lot, but I'm lookin' for affordable elegance. Guide me.

Respectfully,

Sean, Dupont Circle

Phyllis Richman: Look on this website or take a look at my new edition of the WAshington Post Dining Guide. I hate to beg the question and give my book a plug, but there are two many possible answers to your question, and good management would suggest you do some real research before committing your money. Let me know what you've liked if you find something that suits you.

Washington, DC: The New England town I used to live in had a Malaysian restaraunt that was marvelous. Since moving to DC I haven't been able to track down a Malaysian place here. Are there any, or mabye the questions should be, are there any worth going to?

Phyllis Richman: We have two Malaysian restaurants, one called STraits of Malaya, downtown (it's charming and rather good) and one in Wheaton, called Malaysian Grill (it has a long and fascinating menu, some very good dishes and some not so good,and bargain prices).

K St: Afternoon Phyllis:

Re the not seating entire party issue. At Sakana last Sat (usually refuse to dine out on sat, but guests..) Place packed, as usual, our party assembled while waiting for a table and we were sat after short wait. Table next to us was for 6 with only 3 present, other 3 late. We've finished apps, almost through dinner and still table half empty with line waiting for tables entire time. Staff finally moved the 3 to a smaller table, but the restaurant essentially lost the revenue from a 4 top for the peak of dinner. It's one thing to seat a party where only 1 person is missing but more than that and you essentially loose another table. My favorite though is Blues Alley where if you're party doesn't show up by show time they'll seat someone else with you. Gets to the point, which is opportunity cost for the restaurant.

Phyllis Richman: Good point. I agree that an incomplete party does not always warrant being seated, but those hard-and-fast rules are really ridiculous.

Arlington, VA: Last week someone submitted a question asking if you had ever been to Pasta Mia in Adams Morgan. My two cents worth...amazing pastas (fusilli with eggplant & mozerella, penne amatrice, gnocchi with fontina cheese sauce, etc.), appetizers(the tomato and fresh mozerella is a must!)and homemade bread. It's a small family-owned restaurant with authentic Italian cooking. You've GOT to try it!

Phyllis Richman: So I've heard. Unfortunately, it's not open for lunch.

Washington, DC : Hi Phyllis--
I went with a friend to the Red Sage for a birthday lunch a few weeks ago. Even with reservations, we waited nearly 45 minutes--which doesn't work when you have a lunch HOUR. They graciously and without any prompting on our behalf, picked up the tab for our lunch ($70 for two). Just wanted to say that when a restaurant takes responsibility for something like this, they do turn a bad experience into a good one--I'll be back to the Red Sage in the future!

Phyllis Richman: That's a nice story; I'm glad to hear of Red Sage's professionalism and generosity.

Arlington, VA: Hi - have you heard whether restaurant reservations are starting to fill up yet for Valentine's Day dinner? I'm wondering if I should make a decision and make reservations now.

Phyllis Richman: My decision would be to celebrated Valentine's Day in a restaurant on FEb. 13 or 15. As for the 14th, it's probably not too early to try to get a reservation.

College Park, MD: Roast duck gets such a bad rap at Chinese restaurants. My mother makes the most wonderful duck in the world and it is no where near as greasy as most Chinese places. Go to your local Asian grocery store, pick up a package of Noh's Char Siu powder, a jar of hoisin sauce, and a duck from anywhere. Mix the powder with about 1/2 cup of hoisin, add in a minced clove or two of garlic, and some minced onion. Marinate overnight and bake as you would a chicken for wonderful roasted duck without the oily film

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the idea.I'll go turn on my oven now.

Alexandria: Have you eaten at a place called Cafe Monti in Alexandria? It's a hole in the wall sandwiched between to rug stores but the chef used to work at some well known restaurant in DC. The food (Italian+Austrian) is excellent which more than makes up for the fact that you have to bus your own table!!

Phyllis Richman: I've also heard good reports of Cafe Monti. I think the chef used to work at the Watergate.

Time's up. I'm off to NY to see what's good to eat. See you here next Thursday.

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