By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington, DC: Help! Blue Plate on P Street -- the only place I knew to find really good fried chicken and onion rings -- (you know, the kind that won't require an angioplasty afterwards) has closed! I loved that place. Where else can I go in DC for great fried chicken and a cozy environment?

Phyllis Richman: Hello, everyone. It's noontime and the day is sunny, so it must be time our Thursday chat.

Since this is the first of the new year, I want to start with some housekeeping items:

First, keep in mind that this is spontaneous. My responses are done quickly, and I don't read them over; I write it as if I am conversing. So please be patient with misspellings, grammatical errors and even incorrect restaurant names or locations. Unlike my writing in the Post, this is not edited.

Next, let's catch up on a previous question. Someone asked about donating unused food to soup kitchens and such. I got an email from Suzanne Reifers (whho used to run the wonderful Suzanne's restaurant on Conn. Ave.). She said there is a federal law governing food donations (th eEmerson Good Samaritan Act) whic says that a donor is only liable if it can be proven there was gross negligence or malicious intent. So it should be legally safe to donate food to feed the needy. On the other hand, shelters and feeding programs sometimes have too much of some foods (bread, for instance). And not every place can handle perishables (for those, try DC Central Kitchen).

Suzanne also explained why the lemon tart and chocolate raspberry cakes are so good at Georgetown's Cafe Poupon: The place is run by her former pastry chef.

Now, a suggestion. Why don't we use this place to share - or to make recommendations for my to-try list - unheralded and undernoticed restaurants. I await a flood of ideas.

Finally, to answer the question: Sadly, Blue Plate has just closed. That means that the leftover macaroni and cheese in my freezer has probably become a collectible. It also means that we are short of great fried chicken places in this town. Any suggestions, other than Popeye's, Roy Rogers and the Florida Ave. Grill (all of which I like a lot)?

Arlington, VA: Pot au feu seems to be difficult to find on the typical French restaruant menu - at least for my wife and I. Could you name some places in Arlington and downtown DC including Georgetown that have it? Also, a dessert that we had in Paris - think it was called "isle flottant" - doesnt seem to be available here. It is meringue floating in a "sea" of creme Anglais. Very good! Are you aware of a place here that serves it?

Phyllis Richman: And now an apology: The lines are very slow today, either from my phone or wherever. I'll do what I can from here. Please be patient.

As for pot au feu, it is rarely available, largely because it hasn't been a very popular dish. Ile flottant is fairly common, though. The lovely soft merinque floating on creme anglaise and drizzled with caramel is available at such French restaurants as La Fourchette, Bistrot Lepic and probably Bistro FRancais.

Washington, DC: In refenrence to last week's question of a UNIQUE Vietnamese restaurant around, I would highly recommend the Taste of Saigon in Rockville, Maryland. There's also a second location in Tysons Corner, Virginia. Not only is it the most beautiful Vietnamese restaurant, but the food and service are superb. It is definitely one of my favorite restaurants. All my friends and family love the Taste of Saigon too.

Phyllis Richman: It is indeed a very nice two-branch restaurant, though I'm told that its famous black pepper sauce isn't as thrilling as it once was. I've been to the Rockville branch and was particularly impressed with how graciously the staff handled an impossibly busy lunchtime.

Washington, DC: Have you had a chance to try out the new Franklin Bar and Grill (I believe that's the name) located at 14th & K Streets, N.W.? The remodeling job looks wonderful, but how is the food>?

Phyllis Richman: I;ve tried it and have done a full review but do have a Turning Tables item coming out on this.

K St.: Hi Phyllis:

Glimpsed Washingtonian mag the other day and saw their 100 best list. Expected *some* differences between their list and the Posts, but was surprised at just how many there were. Then a foodie friend told me the Washingtonian only lists restaurants that advertise in the magazine. I'd ask the washingtonian about this, but they don't have an on-line forum, so as *the* local on-line restaurant critic do you have any comments?

Phyllis Richman: It's not true. Washingtonian does not review only restaurants that advertise. Many years ago I wrote reviews for Washingtonian, and I was free to write about whatever restaurants I wanted.

Washington, DC: I became a vegetarian three years ago. The one thing I really miss--not Thanksgiving turkey or ribs on the grill--is Popeye's spicy chicken.
Eat some for me, Phyllis.

Phyllis Richman: I'll order a double portion next time in your honor.

Washington, D.C.: Hi Phyllis!

I heard a rumor that the chef at Ardeo has left and been replaced ...hope it's not true...that is one of my favorite all-time restaurants; can't imagine anyone else filling those culinary shoes- the food there is innovatively exceptional. Know anything about it?

Phyllis Richman: It's true that there is a new chef at Ardeo, but I haven't tried him yet. I haven't yet heard any complaints or indeed anyone noticing a difference, though I'm sure there is some.

Rockville,Md: Hi Phylllis,
This is Chef Vinod from the Bombay Bistro.Wish you a very Happy New Year. Have you heard about Chef Denny Meyers new venture Tabla in New Yorrk and what are your views on it? Do you think Washington is ready for such a Restaurant?

Phyllis Richman: Do I hear a voice that's ready to open a new kind of restaurant? Danny Meyers, owner of Union Square CAfe and Gramercy Tavern, two of New York's most revered restaurants (justifiably so), has opened Tabla recently. It's a restaurant that specializes in Indian spices used with Western cooking techniques. I'm going to try it soon and will report back here in a couple of weeks. Or if I forget, remind me.

wash.dc: what is Burmese food? any difference from chinese or thai food?

Phyllis Richman: While the style is similar to Chinese or Thai food (mostlly cut up on small pieces, stir-fried), the flavors are distinctive. There is a lot of acid--lemon, lime, pickles--in the dishes, and the sauces tend to be light and unthickened. There are wonderful dishes, particularly salads made with tea leaves or fish, stir=fried dishes made with pickled vegetables and appetizers of fried vegetables with spicy dipping sauces. We have two Burmese restaurants here: Burma on 6th St. and Nuwadee farther east.

K St: Hi again, first a suggestion for a good meal, Pasta Mia on 18th just above Colombia. Place reminds me more of little places I loved in Italy than anyplace else in DC. One guy, a couple of pots boiling water and simple, but simply fantastic food, cheap and good wine. Like walking down a residential side street in a small Italian city and entering the first restaurant you come to.

Second, re the Washingtonian, my statement was NOT that they only *review* restaurants that advertise, but rather that only restaurants that advertise make the top 100....

Phyllis Richman: Re Pasta Mia, I've heard good reports on it but haven't gotten there yet.

And my answer still holds re WAshingtonian. I don't believe for a minute that a restaurant has to advertise to made the top 100. The ad department does, though, encourage those top 100 restaurants to advertise, and some might think that the ads are necessary.

Rosslyn, Va: Hello, Happy New Year. I was recently turned on to a great bargain restaurant on King Street in Alexandria. Its called Georges Restaurant (thought the sign on the window says Lite n' Fare). I believe the owner/cook is a former watergate chef. The food is interesting, cheap, and darn good. Do you know anything about this place? How long has it been around, and why wasn't I there sooner.

Phyllis Richman: Another one on my list (too many restaurants, so little time. . .). It's been opoen probably a year or so, and I've heard that it has good versions of caesar salad, tempura, soups, pastas, sandwiches, etc, and that the chef used to work at the Watergate. Anyone here been there?

Washington, DC: Do you ever review cookbooks? I love to read them and would like some tips on some really good ones.

Thanks

Phyllis Richman: I read a great many cookbooks--about 50--over the holidays, and they drove me into the kitchen. I'm impressed by the new Le Bernardin and Jean-Georges Vongerichten cookbooks but haven't cooked from them. One I enjoyed cooking from is The Perfect Recipe. The chicken soup turned out to be the best I've ever made.

hyattsville, MD-: Is there any good food around Prince George Plaza?
any Combodian restaurants in DC area?

Phyllis Richman: I'd be glad to hear of any good food around Prince Georges Plaza. As for Cambodian restaurants, we have had two or three. The one I recall is called, obviously enough, Cambodian.

Takoma Park, MD: Thought you'd like to hear a little story about how to run a successful restaurant.

Our staff went to Red Sage for a holiday outing and we were forced to wait for over an hour (we had made a reservation and they had called us to confirm).

After a little grumbling on our part, they comped the entire meal, which came to about $250. Needless to say, we'll be back.

Do you have a favorite story of a restaurant bending over backward to fix a mistake or error?

Phyllis Richman: That's great to hear. An editor at the Post just told me of a service disaster at the new Universal Pasta, after which the waitress insisted on comping her meal despite her refusals to accept the gesture. It's definitely good for customer relations.

Alexandria, VA: Is dinner theatre synonymous with bad food? Have you ever had a good meal at a dinner theatre? If so, I'm there!

Phyllis Richman: Years ago there was a very good dinner theater buffet, but it didn't last. Probably the only way they can keep the price affordable is to serve the very cheapest food. So I'd take my dinner and theater separately.

Washington, DC: Hello,
I am relatively new to the area, and wonder where might a African-American southern implant such as myself go, for authentic "down-home" Southern food.

Thus far, I have dined at B. Smith's,and Georgia Browns. While these restaurants were good, they lacked the "everyfolk" atmosphere that I crave.

Also, I have gone to Frenchs, Levi's and Ben's Chilli Bowl, which were good but the service was too much like fast food.

I am looking for a a no-frills (i.e., decor) soul food
restaurant filled with great food (some of which is low fat), a diversification of African-Americans, cheap prices, menu variety, and located in the heart of the city.

Can you recommend several restaurants that fit the bill.

Thank you,

Lonely for Southern fare

Phyllis Richman: I think many of us have the same dream.

For down-home southern food that is not low-fat there's Florida AVe. Grill. Music City Roadhouse and Southside 815 also have some good southern food at reasonable prices. For upscale southern there are Georgia Brown's and Vidalia, and Morrison-Clark has a few southern dishes. Any other ideas out there?

Rockville, MD: Hi Phyllis --

What do you think about the TV Food Network? It seems to be all the rage in our circle.

Phyllis Richman: AGain my apologies: The system is very slow today.

I'm delighted that the TV Food Network is catching on. My favorite is the old Julia Child reruns. I'm also a big fan of Alan Richman (no relation), who does restaurant reports.

Bethesda, MD: For good Southern, no frills food I LOVE Louisiana Express in Bethesda on Bethesda Avenue.

Phyllis Richman: Good suggestion.

One chatter also recommends the fried chicken at Georgia Brown's, though I thought it too dry when I tried it.

Alexandria (Kingstowne), VA: Hi Phyllis!! I love your Thursday chat and look forward to it every week! I need your help....

My friend LOVES seafood (crab legs, shrimp, mussels, etc) and he loves going to Phillips for their "all you can eat" buffet. It's not great seafood (as you have been known to say), but the price is great at $20. I just want to know if there are any "above average" venues for the "all you can eat" crowd who love to eat piles of shellfish. Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: The best seafood buffet I've found was the Friday night one at the Mayflower Hotel's Promenade restaurant. I'm not sure it's still in existence, but give them a call. It's not cheap, but then good quality seafood is expensive stuff to begin with.

Arlington, VA: What are your thoughts on the smoothie and wrap trend? I have noticed a few of them opening up in the greater D.C. area. I work in Ballston and we have great shop called Tropical Smoothie & Wraps in the area that my office mates and I frequent. The wraps and smoothies are great, and coming from southern California I have some experience with these. Have you been to TS&W? I highly recommend it!

Phyllis Richman: While smoothies seem like a perennial winner-as long as they are made with real fruit and not oversweetened--I predict a short run for wraps. They're handy and convenient to eat, but those pasty, rubbery plastic-tasting mass-production tortillas don't do much for their fillings but hold them together.

Washington DC. : Hi, Love your chat.

I have a quick question about sushi. I just got back from L.A. Had a great time dining. I went to this sushi bar and was surprised to find that the sushi they served was nothing more than a ball of rice with some wasabe and a thick slice of fresh fish draped across the top. I'm used to sushi that's rolled up in rice with seaweed. Which is the customary way to serve sushi? Is there anywhere around here that I can get sushi served in the mannor I was served in L.A.?

Thanks,
Steph G.

Phyllis Richman: The sushi you're used to is sushi rolls. The other sushi--a ball of rice smeared with wasabi and topped with a slice of fish--is more common. It's called nigiri sushi, and is available at virtually every sushi bar in town. There is also a less common variety, Kyoto style sushi, which is a rectangle of rice formed in a wooden box, topped with fish and cut into slices.

Silver Spring, MD: Phyllis,
I really enjoy reading your dining guides and your reviews. And I love this chat session, it makes lunch so much more fun. My question is: What do you think will be the big restaurant trend for 1999 in DC?

Phyllis Richman: It won't be wraps. It will probably be higher prices. And it might also include more use of Indian spices--to follow the Asian fusion trend.

arlington, va: hi phyllis: i recently went to the queen bee in arlington for the second time and i was quite dispappointed with my food, for the second time also. is there a place to get really fresh and non-greasy vietnamese around here? i was with a crowd from toronto (where there is great vietnamese) and they all though it was pretty mediocre too. thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Try Nam Viet (in Arlington and Woodley Park).

D.C.: Regarding wraps and underappreciated restaurants, I have to chime in as a BIG fan of the Burro. It's the best, healthiest fast food I've ever had, and the staff (at least at the Dupont location) are always extremely friendly.

Phyllis Richman: I've found the food awfully bland for Tex-Mex cooking.

Centreville, Virginia: Hello Phyllis. I was born, raised, and now live in the suburbs. With few exceptions in my life, dining out has meant going to a chain restaurant and enjoying what I felt was a good quality, simply prepared meal (something like dinner at the Outback). I've wondered if the inner-city restaurant scene is worth the trip, and extra money. Frankly, the pictures in your reviews of elaborate morsels of exotic foods are intimidating; I wouldn't know how to begin appreciating such a meal. Where would you recommend as good starting places near Centreville to learn about life outside the chain restaurant world?

Phyllis Richman: Definitely, downtown restaurants are worth the trip. Don't be intimidated by magazine photos; they're made to look beautiful and artistic rather than user-friendly. Take a look at some of the moderately priced restaurants on this site, particularly those I've listed as among my 50 favorites, and come on in.

Washngton DC: Hello Phyllis, This is Gerard Pangaud. I just got on line and the dessert someone is looking for is called Oeuf a la Neige, it is one of the first items I learned to make as a child from my mother. We do serve it at Vintage in Georgetown.

Phyllis Richman: Glad to have you joining us. Indeed, I have had very good floating island (also known as Ile Flottant and Oeufs a la Neige) at Vintage. Thanks for reminding me.

Arlington, VA: If your system is slow, you're probably a victim of the impeachment. Big news days like this tie up the web.

Where's the best burrito in town? I find Burrito Brothers and similar places mediocre. The best one I've ever had (I've never been to CA) was at a street vendor in downtown Boston, next to Filene's. They had a grill in the cart to grill the meat, and their yellow rice was the best I've ever had.

Phyllis Richman: Oh, of course. The impeachment. Thanks for clearing this up--that sounds to me like the reason I'm sitting here drumming my fingers and waiting for my screen to load.

As for burritos, I'd recommend the Well DRessed Burrito (though it's been a while since I've tried it) and Rio Grande Cafe (Bethesda, Ballston, etc>) and a quick trip to Santa Cruz, CA, to Tacos Morenos (but you'll have to hurry--they close mid-afternoon, as I recall).

I'm giving this up and going to turn on my TV. Maybe I'll defrost my endangered-species Blue Plate macaroni and cheese (my, that was great macaroni and cheese). In any case, I'll be back here next Thursday with limber fingers and a modem raring to go.

Good appetite to you all.

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