By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Phyllis Richman: Hello, and welcome once again to the always-sunny-Thursday chat line. Have you noticed that since I started this in May, every Thursday except perhaps one has been glorious sidewalk-cafe weather (okay, maybe it's a bit cold for that today, but at least it's sunny)?

Now that the weather has turned "seasonal", we can think more of wintry dishes--braised beef, root vegetables, soups.

And now, on to you:

Potomac, MD: Can you give me some suggestions for any good Sushi buffet places in the DC area. I've been to few and they are just OK. Thanks

Phyllis Richman: There's a reason those sushi buffets you've visited have been just ok. Given that sushi buffets are moderately priced, they can't afford to give you unlimited supplies of the best fish, cut as thickly as it should be. They cut corners, shave the fish thin, and make do with satisfactory rather than excellent fish. Also, sushi should be made to order and eaten immediately--preferably made piece by piece and consumed just when it's made. So a buffet doesn't show sushi at its best.Ditto packaged sushi in supermarkets.

Washington DC: Hi! I heard you are doing a book-signing tonight at Borders downtown. I would love to give a signed copy of one of your works as a Christmas gift, but I can't make it tonight. Will you be doing other signings before Christmas or is there any other way to get something signed! Thanks so much...

Phyllis Richman: Ah, yes, let's cut to the chase. My dining book is due back from the printer's today. I haven't even seen it yet. But it is promised for a signing at Borders, 18th and L NW, from 7 to 8:30 tonight. Even better, several other Post writers will be there with their books (Roger Piantadosi with ESCAPES, Adrian Higgins with his gardening book, Craig Stoltz and John Kelly's things-to-do-with-children-in-DC book, and the superstar sports writers who did the Redskins book last year). So come and visit.

As for my dining book, the last one was done 2 years ago, which is a million years ago in restaurant terms. It needed much updating. The overwhelming majority of the reviews are new looks at old restaurants, but there are many I've never reviewed before, too. It costs $10.95, I'm told, and it should be in bookstores and at Giant supermarkets by the weekend.

As for signings, I don't have any others planned at the moment. So you or your bookstore could drop them by at the Post for me to sign--either with a stamped envelope or to pick them up later--and I'd be glad to do it. If I have any other signings I'll mention them here next week.

Washington, DC: when a restaurant has only certain "seatings" does it really expect (or want) the entire reservation list to show up promptly at the appointed time? Is it more reasonable to plan to be there 15 or so minutes late?

Phyllis Richman: Okay, enough self-promotion. Back to restaurants.

Yes, the entire group should show up on time for a restaurant reservation, just as you're expected to show up on time for a doctor's appointment, a train or a movie. All right, the show won't start without you, but if you are late, that squeezes the diners who have reservations after you. There are, of course, many valid reasons for being a little late (and it's best to call if you are going to be late), but if you expect the restaurant to accept your reasons, you have to accept the restaurant's equally valid reasons for making you wait for a table when you are on time.

Alexandria, VA: First I wanted to thank you for your words last week about having a reservation and having to wait for a table. Having "worked in the industry" for a little while that is one thing people don't realize is the unpredictability of a dining experience(especially when they waltz in 15 minutes late and expect their table to be held). Second, I have been to restaurant Rest. Nora two times within the past year, both times having a poor experience(service and food), have brought up my concerns to "mgrs" while there and written letters both times and never received a response. Is this appropriate or should I be doing something else.

Phyllis Richman: I'm glad you've added your point of view to this discussion. It' valuable to have people in the industry share their perspective with diners.

As for Nora's not responding to your calls and letters, there is not much you can do except what you are doing: make your disatisfaction known to as many people as you can. To be fair, though, you should try calling or writing more than once, just in case your first contact accidentally fell through the cracks. Let us know what happens.

Washington, DC: Are there any restaurants in DC that you could suggest where the view of the kitchen is available to the diner? My father loves to cook and would enjoy watching a professional kitchen in action. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: It's an increasing trend to show off kitchens, either by putting a window between the dining room and kitchen and/or by booking groups to dine right in the kitchen. Some chefs are giving weekend morning cooking classes, too. For open kitchens, see Citronelle (also with a kitchen table and classes, I think), Bis (ditto), DC Coast, Red Sage, and many more. Galileo also has a kitchen table, as does the Inn at Little Washington.

Washington, D.C.: I loved your review of the live flounder. It was refreshing to hear a food critic admit that she had been bested by a dish.

I have always wondered what the fuss was about raw fish. Without the soy sauce and the wasabi, there really isn't any "there" there. I chalk it up to a bias for Euopean foods, and compare it to the difference between Japanese music and European symphonic music.

The former is simplistic in the extreme, while the latter is rich and full. After growing up with the complex flaovors of European (particularly French) cooking, the minimalist appraoch of sushi is particularly unexciting.

Not that there's anything wrong with that.

Back to the review. Have you had any other foods that really truned you off? Have you tried fermented Icelandic Shark? Truly disgusting. Tastes mostly of ammonia.

Phyllis Richman: I''m sure there are many out there who will disagree with your opinions here (I, for one). But this points up the fact that tastes in food are culture-driven. And everyone's taste is different--as well as valid.

Let me say right here, though, that I love raw and rare fisih--though not every raw and rare fish. I found that perfectly fresh raw flounder tastes bland to me. And udnercooked monkfish, sea bass and such are not appealing to me. But I much prefer raw or rare tuna to fully cooked. And perfection in simplicity is as great and difficult an art as elaboration.

What foods turn me off? Sea cucumbers and black walnuts.

Arlington, VA: What is your opinion of dress codes such as the Prime Rib has, requiring men to wear jackets? I once called ahead to Vidalia to ask abotu codes and the person on the phone said, "We sell food, not clothing." I thought that made sense.

Phyllis Richman: Cute. I think a restaurant has a right to promote a dress code but it risks losing some diners. On the other hand, diners who like formality might be lost to a restaurant that doesn't require jackets.

Washington, DC: More of a food question than a restaurant question, but in the spirit of the holidays, I'll ask anyway. Do you think it's safe to make eggnog with whole raw eggs if you let the yolks sit with the alcohol for a long time? I made a batch last night - 18 yolks and 1.5 qts. rum. Does that sound safe? How do restaurants make salmonella-free eggnog?

Phyllis Richman: It's been a long time since I researched the raw-egg/salmonella problem, so I can't be definitive. I know that justa few miinutes in an acidic medium will kill salmonella, so if you beat lemon juice into your eggs for a few minutes before adding oil, etc, you can be safe in making mayo or hollandaise. And it certainly sounds as if alcohol will kill salmonella. But I think the eggs and alcohol would have be be combined before the cream is added to dilute the effect. To be safe, though, I'd call the Dept. of AGriculture or an extension service. If you find out more, please report back here so all of us can know.

Potomac, MD: DC seems to be severly lacking in good late-night dining options...any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: See my new book. It will list late-night places.

Oops. More bsp.

Herndon, VA: Hi Phyllis!
I miss "Lucie" at the Embassy Row Hotel, especially the Winemaster's dinners. Do you know where Chef Jim Papovich went and/or other restuarants that do regular Winemaster's dinners?
Thanks,
Corbin Wahl

Phyllis Richman: I don't know where Jim Papovich went, but I, too, miss him. He's a fine chef. As for wine dinners, many restaurants do them. I get flyers from I Matti, and I think from CArlyle Grand Cafe, perhaps from Gerard's Place. I wish I could remember more, but maybe some of you out there can help jog my memory.

washington dc: just wanted to comment that i love sea cucumbers. out of curiosity, how have they been cooked when you've eaten them? they're quite good when really fresh and raw (thought i've never seen it done in the states) with hot chile sauce.

Phyllis Richman: I've never had them raw, but I've had them in Hong Kong and China as well as here, so I suppose I've had them well prepared. And in truth I have sometimes found them rather pleasant, but too often they seem slimy to me.

Washington, DC: When I was in Paris, I ordered an appetizer called Jambon du Provence. I am not sure what I got, but, it looked like raw ham. Not wanting to get sick, I did not eat it. Would a restaurant serve raw ham? Would someone actually eat this knowing the danger in eating raw pork products?

Phyllis Richman: Prosciutto is raw, as is the wonderful Spanish ham. Ham is not strictly raw, it has been salted, smoked and cured, just as (raw) smoked salmon. Furthermore, trichinosis has been virtually wiped out. So eating raw cured ham is far safer than eating raw beef as in tartar steak, or raw oysters.

arlington,va: Hi Phyllis!
Do you have any suggestions on where to get a copper saucepan ?( one that is all copper--not aluminum lined) I need one for my holiday candies! p.s I already checked Williams & Sonoma

Phyllis Richman: The places I see copper pans without linings are antiques stores, whichi often sell pans that have had the linings wear away. For new copper, the only unlined pieces I see are bowls (for beating egg whites).

New York, NY: As I am sure you have noticed, New York has had an influx of Soup stands open in the past few years such as; Soup Kitchen International, Daily Soup, Hale and Hearty, etc. (though I have to say that Hale and Hearty is the best here!). Has this trend come to DC yet? Do you think there is a market for it?

Phyllis Richman: We had one short-lived soup shop recently (Hungry Jack's), but I don't know whether it went out of business for lack of public support or for other reasons. We have plenty of carryouts that make good soups daily, so I don't expect there is a great need for places that sell only soup.

Bethesda, MD: What are sea cucumbers?

Phyllis Richman: They are a sea creature, and look like sea slugs. They are a delicacy in Chinese cooking, appreciated for their texture and their abilitiy to absorb the flavors of other ingredients in the dish.

Washington DC: I need to vent: Every restaurant in DC seems tied for "Most Appallingly Bad Service." This award spans all price ranges and all cuisines. It has come to the point where I would rather pay for average food with excellent service than the "hautest" haut cuisine with the level of service most restaurants provide. I have noted in your reviews and in this discussion group an increasing number of gripes about this, and I think restaurants should pay far greater attention to the matter than they appear to. Okay, done venting. What do you think, phyllis?

Phyllis Richman: It is true that far too many restaurants have bad or inept service. We should find ways to reward and highlight the service at the good ones.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis, I've been reading your reviews since I moved to Washington six years ago--and always found them interesting--even when I have no intention of ever going to the restaurant! Here's my question: are there ANY foods that you really don't like to eat, or simply refuse to eat? I'm thinking of foods that some have a "moral" problem with, like veal, or just plain "icky" food (like brains, intestines etc)? Thanks. Bill

Phyllis Richman: Many restaurants offer pre-theater dinners at bargain prices, and fixed-price lunches that are bargains. They are good vehicles for trying a restaurant that might otherwise be too expensive for you (look at Lespinasse's fixed price lunch, for example).

And you know where you'll be able to find information on pre-theater dinners, in book form??

As for foods I won't eat because of moral problems, I can't think of any since the grape boycott was over.

Reston, VA: I've noticed that service in restaurants has, for the last few years, been getting worse. Part of the problem, as I see it, is that what was a large pool of potential servers (college students/recent graduates) has dried up. This is in large part because of a reluctant of young people to accept a position where the hourly wage is half the minimum wage and the rest of the money is made soley from the benevolence of customers. Do you think that doing away with tipping and replacing that with an added %15 on the bill would help restaruants hire and retain better qualified servers?

Phyllis Richman: You make a good point. The American public is resistent to automatic tipping, and restaurateurs who add tips automatically tend to make that tip 18 to 20 percent, which further steams customers. Most important, in this country I haven't found that restaurants with automatic tips have service any better than those where tips are up to the diner.

Pensacola, FL: Hello Phyliss,

What do you think of chain steakhouses like Ruth's Chris?

Phyllis Richman: Some I respect greatly (like Morton's) and others I consider overpriced for the quality and not very good (like Ruth's Chris). The interesting thing is that those two chains are almost identically priced.

Washington, D.C.: Hello Phyllis - Being "In the business" I have heard rumors and gossip about Lespinasse since the day it opened. Everyone said it was outragously expensive and there was attitude at the door. This week I had both lunch and dinner at the restaurant (someone else was treating). What is all the talk about?? I thought it was a great value for the food, presentation and service. And everyone was extremely friendly and polite...

Phyllis Richman: You're talking about the new Lespinasse. It has seen the light. It has lowered its prices (don't get me wrong--it's not cheap--it's just now in line with other grand restaurants). It has also hired a new chef from France and has honed its staff. I'll be reviewing it in a few weeks.

Silver Spring, MD: Did you go to High Point High School?

Phyllis Richman: Sure did. Great place, right (although I haven't been back there in many years).

Arlington, VA: I'm a fan of Hungarian food. It's a heavy cuisine, but a distinctive one. There used to be at least three Hungarian restaurants in the DC area. I used to like the atmosphere of these places (cymbalom music, etc.) Any idea if there are still any around?

Phyllis Richman: I think that unfortunately none is left.

Washington, DC: A sushi restaurant by the name of Sushi Chalet in Bethesda has a very good buffet!

Phyllis Richman: I haven't tried it, but there's a suggestion for all of you.

washington, DC: I grew up in Italy and lived in France for a long time, still I am able to appreciate the extremely interesting nuances of sushi and sashimi. and rare tuna Rossini at DC Coast (I'm the one who complained about the reservation there) was one of the pinnacles of my eating life. And rare griled tuna at Greenwood, and rare tuna at Zuki Moon, and...

Phyllis Richman: I agree with you. Raw fish is one of the greatest culinary experiences I know. And FRench chefs have adapted this Asian delicacy to their cooking.

D.C.: PHYLLIS, YOUR BAD SERVICE VENTER NEEDS TO UNDERSTAND THAT SERVICE MEANS DIFFERENT THINGS TO DIFFERENT PEOPLE. MOST WAITERS IN FINE PLACES TAKE CUES FROM THE CUSTOMERS- SOME WANT TO BE LEFT ALONE, OTHERS SEEM AS IF THEY CAME TO YOUR RESTAURANT TO MAKE A NEW BATCH OF FRIENDS.LAST MONTH A WOMAN CAME IN A LARGE PARTY AND HANDED THE WAITER A CARD LISTING HER SEVERE ALLERGIES WITH THE ADMONITION THAT SHE COULD DIE AT THE TABLE IF WE DIDNT FOLLOW THE INTRICATE INSTRUCTIONS. THEN SHE ACTED UPSET WHEN THE CHEF SAID THAT ALL SHE COULD HAVE WAS A DRY SALAD AND STEAMED SEA BASS. GOOD OR BAD SERVICE?

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear from the other side of the table. Agreed, there are good and bad customers as well as good and bad servers.

Takoma Park, MD: I heard that the owners of Sakura Palace (formerly on Georgia Ave. in Silver Spring) have another restaurant. Do you know anything about it? We miss Sakura.

Phyllis Richman: Makoto, that wonderful little Japanese restaurant on MacArthur Blvd., is owned by the Sakura Palace owners. By the way, Sakura Palace was the first Japanese restaurant in Washington. I think it opened in the 50s.

Arlington, Va.: Thanks for the tip from a couple of weeks ago on the Afghan Kabob restaurant in Georgetown. I tried this one and agree that the washboard style bread is more flavorful than any other. I also enjoyed delightful pumpkin turnovers and tried a juicy lamb pilaf with raisins and carrots - delicious!

Also, there used to be a charming cafe called Crepizza in the Mazza Galerie shopping center that apparently fell victim to the mall renovation. Do you know if they have reopened anywhere?
Thanks again for the on-line chat room!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for you input. I don't know what happened to Crepizza. But Mazza Gallerie has not turned out to be a very hospitable environment for restaurants.

d.c.: Hi Phyllis, People seem very sensitive to the way wine is priced in restaurants but they never seem to understand that the food is marked up times three and in most cases more. Why is wine such a sore spot? Mark

Phyllis Richman: Yes, food is marked up three times, but that has to take into account the creation of the dish, the preparation, the cooking. Nobody minds when clay is marked up once it's made into pottery, but if a clothing shop marked up a dress that much, there'd be reason to complain. Wine is a finished product--maybe a better comparision would be marking up the wine three times the cost of the grapes.

Somewhere, USA: I have been reviewing restaurants for my college newspaper, The Hoya, here in Washington. I was wondering whether you had any advice as to writing restaurant reviews.
Thanks
Doug Snyder

Phyllis Richman: Lots. But what would be more interesting would be if the other people on this chat would contribute their advice for restaurant reviewers. There isn't enough time today, but I'd be grateful if you'd raise this again next week and all of you out there would consider adding your advice here.

Now I'm giving homework, it seems.

Oakton, VA: I have had a lot of servers act bothered by the fact that my fiancee and I ask about ingredients as she had some severe food alergies.

One waitress told me about a guy who dropped dead at the table after eating peanut butter that was in a chile recipe.

What is the best way to inqire about food alergies with a server?

Phyllis Richman: Just treat servers as people, and expect them to treat you the same way. I think servers are glad to be helpful - that's why they are there. But they have a hard time when customers start out with a chip on their shoulder, approach them in a challenging way, or treat them like serfs rather than as professionals.

Washington D.C.: The Atami restruant in Arlington (On the Clarendon strip) has an all-you-can-eat sushi special for $25, and they make everything fresh and you can watch the chefs at work, the portions of fish and rice are rather generous, served with a salad and miso soup, and it's all quite tasty.

Phyllis Richman: You're right, Atami's all-you-can-eat is different from a sushi buffet, and doesn't have the same problems. It is simply excellent sushi made as it would be for anyone but priced at $15 for all you want.

Raw fish sounds good to me. Time for lunch. See you here next week, and maybe some of you at Borders tonight.

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