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Phyllis Richman – Live! Hosted by Phyllis Richman Washington Post Staff Writer Thursday, November 19, 1998
In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web! Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now." Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.
Washington, DC: My friend went to Al Tiramisu and was raving about the pasta with white truffles they had. Are there other places that serve dishes with white truffles? And, dare I ask, any place that has these dishes moderately priced? (The dish at Al Tiramisu was $50). Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everybody. It feels like oyster season out there, doesn't it? Not to mention turkey time.
Arlington, VA: Phyllis - It's 11:58 am and I'm ready to go to lunch, but I've had my fill of Pho 75, Sushi and other typical lunchtime fare. Help! I need a fresh new Asian suggestion. Phyllis Richman: What can I say? I never tire of those. However, I notice there is a new sushi restaurant on Connecticut AVe. below Dupont Circle. It's called DRagonfly, and it is all white and silver--definitely a new look, if not a new taste.
Washington, DC: I recently ate at an Asian restaraunt and had a lemongrass soup that was wonderful. What exactly is lemongrass? Phyllis Richman: Lemongrass is an herb that looks like a long woody stalk of grass - or kind of like a thin, dry leek. It is quite aromatic, with sweet lemony smell. It's Asian, of course, but now is grown here.
Washington, DC: Phyllis, we are having several guests for the holiday season, and they want to take us for a nice afternoon or evening dinner on Christmas Day. Are there any places likely to be open that you might recommend? Phyllis Richman: As at Thanksgiving, the restaurants most likely to be open are hotel restaurants--and Asian ones. Hotel restaurants are so varied nowadays that you can probably find one that will suit you. There's Morrison-Clark Inn, for example, and in the new George Hotel near Union Station, its restaurant, bis, is open for Thanksgiving, so might be on Christmas as well. Consider Melrose in the Park Hyatt, and the Tabard Inn, and Michel Richard Citronelle, all in hotels.
North Potomac, MD: Now that Lespinasse is the only five diamond AAA-rated restaurant in DC, we are especially anxious to hear your opinion. When will you be reviewing Lespinasse? Phyllis Richman: Probably around the end of the year or the beginning of January. I'm letting it simmer a bit.
Washington, D.C.: Can a restaurant require you to pay an added-on gratuity if the service is inadequate and if the restaurant does not inform you of its policy? At Greenwood Restaurant, we received deplorable service (I know, Ms. Richman, you have expressed similar views about the service there, and you are 100% right.). When the bill came, and 18% had been added on without mentioning it on the menu or otherwise, we authorized the general manager (who took our check because the waiter was no where to be found) to charge $20 less than the total (which included tip), to the card. Well, without asking why we had authorized only the reduced amount, he wrote in $20 on the tip line of my friend's credit card slip! We approached the manager, who was unbelievably rude and obnoxious, and he acted as if we just didn't want to pay the $20, which is ridiculous. Considering it was a rather large bill ($300 for 5 people), it was clear money wasn't the issue. He implied we didn't have a problem with the service, as claimed, because we didn't mention it to anyone. I explained we were trying to keep quiet, enjoy our dinner, and not make trouble for him and that, furthermore, as manager, he should be checking with tables and observing what's going on. When he continued to yell at us and remained confrontational, we asked him to leave our table. He said no one asks him to leave in his own restaurant and told us we could leave because there are plenty of other restaurants in DC we could go to! Believe me, I will. The food was good, but the service was HORRENDOUS. I urge you to let people know about Greenwood adding an amount to a credit slip without authorization and then refusing to acknowledge inadequate service because we did not mention it until the end of the meal. It was undoubtedly the worst service I've ever had in a restaurant. Phyllis Richman: Whew!
Alexandria, VA:
Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: As I mentioned here before, check out the Korean restaurants.
Arlington: I also love Crisp and Juicy. What is the deal with the guy who runs the cash register most nights. He is definitely the boss. Is he the owner? He runs a very tight ship. Some of my friends refer to him as the "Chicken Nazi," kind of like Seinfield"s "Soup Nazi." To me he is just " The Chickenman." Phyllis Richman: Whatevef he is, he does a great job, as far as I can tgell.
fairfax, va: In response to the 11/12 question about good sushi, I would suggest Tachibana in McLean, VA. It has the freshest fish I have ever tasted. Hama Sushi in Herndon is also top notch. Friends from Japan lived here for a year and found the above to be true. Phyllis Richman: I've tried TAchibana, and thought it was fine--not outstanding, though. I haven't been to Hama Sushi. Sounds interesting.
Washington, DC: Have you ever considered doing a series or book on Lunchtime Meals? With so many options in DC to eat for lunch, I think it would help everyone from those looking for a power lunch to those just wanting to grab a good quick bite. Phyllis Richman: That sounds like an interesting idea, but since I just finished doing the second edition of the Washington Post Dining Guide book, I'm not inclined to think about another at the moment.
Sharon Levin, North Potomac, MD:
Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: I was there quite a few months ago, but I've always found it to be a delightful restaurant that serves food far above what you would usually expect at the price.
San Jose, Ca:
In your opinion, do you like food from the East or West Coast? Ny, PHL, DC, or SF,LA?
Phyllis Richman: I like it all, of course.
Washington, DC: I am looking for a Hungarian restaurant in the DC area, or a place where I can find Hungarian cuisine. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Phyllis Richman: We used to have a Hungarian restaurant or two, but I think at the moment there is none. Does anybody out there know of a Hungarian restaurant hereabouts?
weston, fl: i read in the Post, a lengthy review you did of all of the restaurants in the Bethesda area. It was last year some time and i have been trying to retrieve the info. It was wonderful. How can I get a copy of this? beth Phyllis Richman: Sorry,that was not I. However, you can find all the reviews of BEthesda restaurants you could need on this site. Just search on Style Live for BEthesda restaurants.
Annandale, VA: Is it absolutely necessary to order red wine only with red meat and white wine for chicken/fish? Would the Maitre-D pass out if I ordered a Blanc-de-Blanc to go with my Prime Rib? Phyllis Richman: It's not absolutely necessary to order any particular wine with any particular dish. While in general white wines suit lighter and more delicate dishes--e.g., fish--I often find red wine and fish complementing each other. And while red wines tend to best stand up to the power of red meat dishes, the GErmans drink their white wines with game as well as red meats. As for champagne, many drink it with just everything. So order what you like and don't give a thought to the maitre d's reaction. Who says a particular maitre d' knows chardonnay from cabernet, anyway?
Washington, DC: Hello. I've heard talk about a new Asian restaurant in Cleveland Park. Any news? Phyllis Richman: A new Asian seafood restaurant is in the works, in Cleveland Park on the block where the Metro station is. I can't recall the name at the moment.
Cupertino, CA: Last week you got a question concerning restaurants in several Italian cities. If it's not out of place I'd like to second your recommendation of Cibreo in Florence (ate there twice last month) and add one for Trattoria Fattore Antico. I was in Bologna more than five years ago and can highly recommend Trattoria Bell'Fiore and Ristorante Diana. But, IMHO, I believe that the food at Obelisk on P st. is as good as any of them & Obelisk's bread is better. Phyllis Richman: You're right: Obelisk's bread is better than any I found in Italy except one that was from a specialist in the market. And the rest of Obelisk's food can compete with the top, too. Tkhanks for your restaurant list.
Potomac, Maryland: Several weeks ago a "PIE BAKERY" in Virginia was featured in the food section. I failed to note the name and location. Can you help me? It got rave reviews and I'd like to order for a holiday party. Thanks- Phyllis Richman: You can search the Post's website for any articles that have run, by using keywords. Shouldn't be a problem.
Washington, DC: How do you think a caviar bar would do in this town? Phyllis Richman: We've had a couple of caviar bars. The one at the Park Hyatt didn't last long; the one at 701 has lasted for years and is probably still going (I haven't indulged recently enough to be sure). It's a lofty and expensive undertaking. Pretty risky, I assume.
Arlington, VA: Phyllis, have you heard about plans for the space in Union Station once occupied by Sfuzzi and another Italian restaurant (can't remember the name right now)? Rumour is that someone is going in to lease. Phyllis Richman: Surely someone out there knows what's being planned and could let us all in on the news.
Washington, DC: Concerning area BBQ: why does Red, Hot, and Blue always get so much attention? There sauces taste store-bought while O'Brien's in Rockville has a very traditional Texas taste though the atmosphere is lacking. Beyond that, there is no other good local BBQ. Phyllis Richman: You're too quick to judge. We have some excellent barbecue hereabouts. Have you tried Rocklands? Old Glory? Ella's?
Washington, D.C.: Do you have any favorite reasonably priced restaurants near the Kennedy Center? I know you like Zuki Moon Noodles, but I was hoping for American or Italian? Perhaps something with a pre-theater menu prior to the performance? Phyllis Richman: That's pretty arid dining territory. BEsides Zuki Moon and Foggy Bottom Cafe, there's hardly anything. I did notice, though, that Marshall's has reopened on Pennsylvania Ave, though this time on the south side, between 24th and 25th.
Arlinton, VA: Last week, and this week as well, someone asked about going out to eat on Thanksgiving and Christmas...you were right about hotels, I just wanted to add one to the list. The Colonnade in the Washington Monarch Hotel (formerly ANA Hotel, 24th & M) does both and does them well. Wonderful food, both traditional and non, great service and a beautifully decorated for-the-season atmosphere. My only warning is that you do need reservations, as it is quite popular. Phyllis Richman: That's a good suggestion. Since the Colonnade is only open for certain occasions (last time I checked anyway), I tend to forget it. It is an immensely beautiful room, just right for a holiday.
Washington, D.C.: It's frustrating to look at a restaurant wine list and see the cabernet you buy for ten dollars being sold for $30. Is there a formula or percentage for what is a fair markup? Phyllis Richman: The formula seems to be whatever a restaurant can get away with. The most thoughtful restaurants charge 2 to 2 1/2 times retail. Many charge three or more times retail, what makes wine awfully profitable.
Washington, DC: When Medaterra, on Connecticut, in Woodley Park, first opened I had a wonderful dining experience -- fantastic food, service and wine....And the prices were VERY reasonable. Have you had the pleasure (or perhaps, displeasure) of dining here? If so, what are your thoughts Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there yet. It is run by the family who used to run Pasha Cafe in Arlington. I thought the food there was uneven but included some really wonderful dishes - a salmon appetizer, an eggplant dish. So I hope those have been brought to the Washington location.
Arlington, VA:
Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: Thanks. There's the answer to those Christmas-dinner questions.
Washington, DC: I think I remember reading that Chef Alison Swope is at a new restaurant in town. Do you know where? Phyllis Richman: She's at The Mark, on 7th Street near Pennsylvania.
Washington DC:
Regarding dining options near the Kennedy Center, Donatello's on 25th and Penn is great, and they offer pre and post theater menus.
Phyllis Richman: I agree. Donatello's is a nice restaurant, though not exactly great. I like the seafood pasta, in particular. And it is a good option within reach of the Kennedy Center.
Fairfax, VA: For BBQ, the best place around is definetely Dixie Bones in Woodbridge. Just about everyone who walks out the door leaves with a bottle of the sauce. Phyllis Richman: A new one for my list.
Arlington, VA:
Phyllis -
Phyllis Richman: Egad, even the Post cafeteria has buffalo wings. I can hardly think of a pub-style restaurant that doesn't. Anybody out there have any particular favorites (I love the Lebanese variation, very garlickly and lemony, at Bacchus).
springfield, va: I was wondering if there are any good Turkish or Perisan rest. in the area, that you would recommend? Phyllis Richman: The Turkish restaurants I know of are Anatolya on Capitol Hill and Nizam and Kazan in Virginia. We have several Persian restaurants, two with similar names across the street from each other in Bethesda (Paradise? Soemthing else similar?). And there's Shamshiry in Vienna. There are probably a half dozen other Persian restaurants out there. Anyone else have some names?
Falls Church, VA: Comment, for Turning Tables: Duangrat's Bangkok Street Noodles and Grill has shut down, and sports a sign that an Indian restaurant is coming. Phyllis Richman: That's a shame. It was a good place.
Chevy Chase, MD: I have been looking to try Dim Sum for a while now, but I do not know of any reputable area restaurants for it. Can you give a novice a hand? Thanks. Phyllis Richman: In Chinatown, try the Golden Palace, Mr. Yung's or Tony Cheng's. In the suburbs, try Fortune in Va. or New Fortune in Md. That's just the beginning of what's available.
Washington, DC: Capital Q near the MCI arena has pretty good barbeque, too, though not as good as Old Glory. Where is Ella's? Phyllis Richman: Oops, I forgot about Capitol Q.
gaithersburg, md: Hautam Kobob on rockville pike is really excellent! they also have a wonderful weekend lunch buffet. Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, another Persian restaurant. I've heard of it but haven't gotten there yet. Thanks.
Washington, DC:
Why does Washington, DC have a reputation for uninteresting, mediocre, and over-priced restaurants?
Phyllis Richman: Okay, Washington is expensive. But uninteresting? Mediocre? Not by a long shot.
Arlington, VA: Re Buffalo Wings: Shelly's Back Room (on F, between 13th and 14th) has absolutely wonderful wings. They are baked, in a great sauce, and are some of the best that I've had around here. Phyllis Richman: Good news. Thanks.
washington,dc:
My husband and I are invited to many food and wine tasting events (some are for charity, some are not). Of course, we cannot go to all of them. Which ones, do you think, are the most worthwhile to attend?
Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the Old Glory tip.
Gaithersburg, MD: I've been to Udupi Palace in Langley Park, and it is excellent. What have you heard about it's Tiffin, non-veg sister next door? Phyllis Richman: I reviewed Tiffin a few months back. You should be able to find it on this website.
Alexandria, Virginia:
I grew up in Belgium in a family restaurateurs. I have been living in the DC area for three years. I am not in the restaurant business; however, I have brother who is a chef in Europe. My brother is extremely talented (he has been a star chef at several 3-star restaurants in France). He is now 32 years-old and thinking about opening his own place. He is considering coming to D.C.
Phyllis Richman: Aw, c'mon. Washington not only has (and supports) some of the great restaurants of this country or anywhere, it has a dining public that travels far more than most. It has diners who have lived all over the world. It is, in its way, as cosmopolitan as any city in Belgium. While there are people here who don't know creme brulee from Bird's custard powder, there are many, many well honed palates. I'd saiy this is a great place to open a fine restaurant because the competition is not so fierce as in NY, and Washington is an appreciative audience.
Washington, DC: How do restarants feel about diners having only coffee and dessert? A group of us are going to a show this weekend and although we want to go have something to eat afterwards, we thought it would be nice to just get something sweet. Phyllis Richman: You should check with a restaurant about whether it welcomes after-theater diners for just dessert. Taking up a table in prime dining time for just dessert sometimes means the restaurant loses money on the deal. It needs to use its space more profitably. If it is after dinner hour, though, a restaurnt might be amenable.
springfield, va:
Hi Phyliss!
Phyllis Richman: Truffles are tubers that grow underground, usually around the roots of trees, and in very particular places. They are very aromatic and earthy and wonderful. They are expensivei because they only grow wild and in a very short season and are hard to find because they are underground. Dogs or pigs are used to sniff them out (and soemtimes the dogs eat them as well--no fools, they). So they are rare and distinctive. Canned truffles don't give you any reasonable idea of what fresh ones are like. Imagine wild mushrooms. Then imagine them four times stronger and ten times better. That's a truffle.
Rockville, MD: For great BBQ, I think you have to buy it from an old shack with wood smoke coming out of a teetering chimney. 2 places fill the bill, t&j's (open only on weekends in the winter) on rte 225, south of laplata and george's (closed for the winter) on indian head hwy near indian head. they are only 10 minutes apart so you can hit both. incredible "q" with smoke permeating to the bone. you can eat at the decrepit picnic tables outside. i buy a lot and take home; microwaves well. Phyllis Richman: I'll go warm up my car.
Herndon, VA: Well, if the reader who wants Buffalo Wings doesn't mind coming to the 'burbs, The Buffalo Wing Factory in Sterling has really great wings with about 20 varieties to choose from. Phyllis Richman: Sounds like the most appropriate place possible.
Arlington, VA:
PR,
Phyllis Richman: It's a fine place. Go and try it, and order mostly appetizers. You'll learn a lot about Lebanese food in a hurry.
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