By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington DC: Help! I need to book a reservation for Thanksgiving! Any suggestions on classic turkey day fare and elegant atmosphere in DC. Price is of no concern.

Thanks

peter s

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon. I'm back from Italy and fired up with renewed passion for papsta. I ate some of the great pastas of my life in Piedmont this week. The absolute highlight was ravioli del plin at Da Guido in Asti. This pasta, like the region's famous tagliolini, is made with 40 egg yolks per kilo of flour, soit is very golden and rich. In this ase, it was also silken and rolled very thin, filled with meat and topped with just butter and white truffles. Alsost its equal was a larger ravioliifilled iwht a soft, custardy stuffing of veal and rabit, the sauce in this case a sheer, nearly translucent squash sauce.

Okky, back to Washington. And Thanksgiving. Unfortunately, I don't keep track of what restaurants are open for Thanksgiving, butyou can find ads for them usually in the Weekend section on Friday. And the hotel restaurants are open. I've heard very good reports about Thkanksgivin gdinner at the Morrison-Clark at 11th and Mass. NW. Sme country-style restaurants are open too. Anybody out there know of particular ones to share here?

Washington DC: I know my friends sometime view me as kind of a food snob -- who tries to stay abreast of current menu trends and samples the new restaurants worth sampling. What they don't know is my secret craving for the White Castle hamburger of my youth, that perfect combination of grease and salt on a soggy bun that I once gobbled by the sackful. What junk food makes you salivate for and search out whenever you can?

Phyllis Richman: I'm a fool for McDonald's breakfast hash browns, Roy Rogers or Popeye's fried chicken and the long-gone "buy em by the bag" Little Tavern burgers.

washington, dc: If you had to pick an ethnic cuisine that metro Washington, DC does better than any other major city, what would it be? Ethiopian springs to my mind, but maybe there are other, too.

Phyllis Richman: We also have more and better Afghan restaurants than other cities. And out Thai and Vietnamese restaurants are more numberous, often better than other cities'. Then, of course, we also share honors for steamed crabs and crab cakes with Baltlimore and parts of Virginia.

dupont circle, DC: I was recently in Montreal and was delighted by the wonderful creperies. I know the Magic Pan used to specialize in crepes, but I believe they've closed. Do you think crepes could ever be a new trend in Washington?

Phyllis Richman: Trends always do seem to return eventually, but I don't see crepes coming back in the near future.They suffer from being considered (wththeir fillings,ankyway), too fattening. Hardly true, but that's their reputation.

Washington, DC: Dear Phyllis:
Le Caprice was one of my favorite restaurants. When it closed, I thought it was because of landlord troubles and that the owners were going to shortly open up a new restaurant in Arlington. But the old building is still vacant, and I haven't heard anything about a new Alsacian restaurant starting up anywhere, let alone in Arlington. Do you know what's up?

Phyllis Richman: Le Caprice was indeed expected to open around Tysons Corner, but that plan seems to have disappeared. It was going to have a wine store adjacent, where you could buy wine at retail price and have it with your dinner. Instead, Evening Star in Alexandria has installed a wine store next door with the same plan. It's run by Ann Berta, formerly of Arrowwine, and one of the best wine experts aroudn here. As for Le Caprice, I'll look for it to surface eventually--somewhere--and will let you know when it does.

NW DC: Is Germaine's gone forever?
If so, what happened?

Phyllis Richman: As far as I know, Germaine's has gone forever. As for what happened, I don't know but I do realize that it lasted far longer than most restaurants do--decades longer.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis
Recently two friends and I went to dinner at 701 Pennsylvania - we had a great dinner, the menu was diverse and the food was excellent. We were all a little disappointed with the service though. It was friendly and efficient but we felt very rushed. This was a birthday celebration for the three of us and we specifically asked our waiter if we could order the appetizers first and then order our main course later. He insisted we order everything at once but said he would ask us before putting our meal order in. Well, we got our main course 10 minutes after he cleared our appetizer plates. We were in and out of the resturant in under 2 hours. Is it too much to expect a good dinner to last at least 2 to 2 1/2 hours? I know they get a big theatre crowd but we made reservations well in advance. What do you think - were we wrong to be disappointed?

Phyllis Richman: I'd have been disappointed. Unfortunately, the economics of running a restaurant in this country encourage restarateurs to oopt for quick turnover. That's how they can cope with high rents and other high basic costs. Restarateurs here notonly can't afford to let a diner have the table for the evening, as they do in Euroope, but often need 2 1/2 turns of each table per evening to be profitable. Furthermore, they try to make up on busy nights for losses on empty nigihts. Thus the diner is forced to be tough about slowing things down and not letting the restaurant rush the dinner.

Vienna, VA: Last New Year's my boyfriend and I had an 8 course meal at Tahoga. Very nice. If you were planning your New Year's Eve and wanted to go out for a nice, dressy dinner for 2, where would you go?

Phyllis Richman: Egad, the New Years Eve questions this year are starting efore Thanksgiving! My litany remains the same: I'd never wilingly dine out on New Years Eve or Valentines Day, unless I was prepared to be disappointed. Thse are the busiest evenings of the year. Restaurants raise their prices, pack people in, and are too rushed to provide good service (or even, in many case, good food). Pretend that Dec. 30 is New Years Eve and you'll get a far better meal for your money.

largo, md: Can you review a few of the great African-American restaurants or restautanteurs at some point.

Phyllis Richman: I try. There are not many African-American restaurants here, I'm afraid, but I have reviewed BET on Jazz and B. Smitih's. I'm open to suggestions.

Washington, DC: Along the lines of ethnic cuisine discussion...A friend and I were recently musing that although there area plethora of Indian restaurants in DC, we feel as though the best Indian food here is barely on par with mediocre Indian restaurants in other cities (LA, London, and Boston for example). Do you think that there are any Indian restaurants here in DC that are outstanding?

Phyllis Richman: I disagree about 100 percent. In the past few years we have gotten a great number of very interesting new Indian restaurants, and we already had a lot of good ones before that.Look on this website. Just call up Indian restaurants and start eating.

Washington DC: Hi Phyllis,
I must admit that I am a bit perturbed that all of the new, great, DC restaurants are taylored for the rich and famous. I grew up in DC and am not part of the politically or socially elite. I know there are few of us natives around, but we enjoy wonderful food too. How can I find out great places to eat that fall in a more reasonable budget in between issues of the Washingtonian 'cheap eats'.
Sincerely,
"Not dining on a gold card"-Hogan

Phyllis Richman: The prpoblem may be that since Washingtonian segretates its reviews into cheap eats and regular restaruants, you don't notoice how many inexpensive restaurants are reviewed here--god ones. Whath about--to start with the A's--Asian Flavor? AV? Afghan? Atill's, BAngkok St. Grill and noodles, Bistro FRancais, Blue Plate, Bombay Curry Co....They'll all be in the new edition of the Washingtn Post Dining Guide (out by DEc.) and many are listed on ths site.

Washington, DC: Do you think an upscale casual, New American, seasonal market menu restaurant would make it in the Eastern Market area? Why or why not? Aren't the legislators sick of that stuffy Monocle and beer soaked Bullfeathers? What are your recommendations for such an establishment opening in that location?

Phyllis Richman: Capitol Hill has, for some unkown reason, always been a tough place to run a restaurant. Maybe it's the lack of lunch business. Or the near-impossible parking. But it is a thriving residential neighborhood as well as being accessible to hundreds of legislaators and their staffs, so it should have a good audience. But the neighborhood is always short on good places to eat.Watch the new Bis and see how it fares.

Alexandria, Va.: Hi Phyllis,
Regarding the Birtday dinner at 701. Restaurants are not unlike airline flights. We have peak and non peak times and once the plane has taken off (or the dinner shift has ended) we lose that revenue forever. However, unfortunately financially speaking, there are plenty of times when the restuarant is less than half full and plenty of seats are available. This is a great time to reserve for that long birthday lunch or early dinner. A lot of times we'll even offer a discount or free appetizer platters to groups who take the opportunity to book during these down times and save the peak hours for full fare patrons.
Mango Mike

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for giving us the restaurateur's perspective on this.

washington dc: Do you know anything about
Swagat being closed for
"renovation". I seems like it is changing hands.

Phyllis Richman: That's interesting. I don't know about it changing hands, but I have found that the food is not as good as it was.

McLean, VA: First, let me say I love reading your reviews. I do have a question about your choice of Rio Grande Cafe as the best Tex Mex restaurant. Why would you choose them over the Austin Grill? In my opinion, Rio Grande is similar to a Don Pablo's or On the Border. The food at Austin Grill has much more imagination and flair. The prices at Rio Grande also seem high for the quality of food. Thank you

Phyllis Richman: It's true, Austin Grill's food is more imaginative than Rio Grande Cafe. But it is less consistent. I think Rio GRande has remarkably consistent food and service, especially for a chain restaurnnt. It's hared to find a less than excellent dish at Rio Grande, and given the portion size and quallty of ingredients, I think the prices are very raasonable.

Silver Spring, MD: Where can I get some really good Indian food. I read an article a couple of months ago on a few Indian restaurants in this area that are owned by one man. I can't seem to locate the article.

Phyllis Richman: I thik you're talking of Ashok BAjaj, who owns the very fine Bombay Club as well as several non-Indian restaurants (Ardeo, 701, Oval Room). You can also find very good Indian food (now that we're getting down to details) at Bombaby Curry Company, Bombay Bistro (two branches), Hanndi, and several more that don't immediately come to mind. I've also heard good reports of Connaught, in Northern Virginia.

baltimore md: Regarding your comment that DC is good crab turf...Baltimoreans never go to DC for steamed crabs or crabcakes, bu DC'ers come here. When the Post says places are great crabcakes in the MD countryside, they are at places we know make big, dramatic, but not really tasty ones. Check the new Zagat for Kelly's and Faifley's in Baltimore, or Cantler's in Annapolis. I heard a DC place serves steamed crabs on a PLATE!

Phyllis Richman: I concede. Baltimore is unbeatable for steamed crabs and crab cakes. But even if Washington is second-best (at least for crab cakes), that's high praise.

Springfield, VA: We read your review of the Afghan Restaurant on Jeff Davis Hwy in Alexandria. We found an Afghan restaurant we like even better called Afghan Kabob on M street in Georgetown next to Zed's. They have spectacular oven-baked bread, delicious pumpkin turnovers as well as traditional Afghan food e.g. aushak, manto-(meat filled dumplings-on weekends). Have you tried it yet? If not, we hope you'll let your readers know.

Phyllis Richman: I think all of those are good, and there are others (Moby Dick, for example) that serve excellent made-to-order bread. But as for the washboard-style Afghan bread, none comes close to the Afghan on Jeff. Davis Higihway.

Washington DC: FYI - I believe Germaine, owner of Germaine's, wanted to retire. She deserves it. I think they still do banquet functions, but have closed down the dining room permanently. I work in a restaurant very near by to them and have heard this information through the grapevine, its not set in stone. I do believe that the Germaine's era has ended.

Phyllis Richman: It was great while it lasted.

Washington, DC: Have you been to the new sushi restaurant in Shirlington, Bonsai Grill? (I liked it.) Besides Sushi-Ko, what sushi restaurants do you like? (I find the quality of Washington area sushi restaurants very uneven.)

Phyllis Richman: I've hard about it, but it's so new that I haven't tried it (anyone want to chime in with an opinion?). I like the sushi at Makoto, Matuba, and probably others that don't come to mind at the moment.

Washington, DC: I will be vacationing in Italy shortly. Any "must go to" restaruants on your list in Florence, Rome, Bologna or Parma? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Funny you should ask. Well, I only got to Turin and environs this time, but I hear that Cibreo in Florence is still good, as are the down-to-earth trattorias such a s Sostanza and Ladini. In Rome, I like Piperno and Il Tentativo, but there are many more that I am not current on. In Piedmont, Da Guido is superb, and in Turin , Cambio doesn't have stellar food, but it is one of the oldest and most beautiful restaurants in existence. To get more extensive and reliable information,look up books but Faith Willlinger and FRed Plotkin.

Alexandria, VA: I've been to Jaleo a couple of times and really enjoy the tapas style menu. I understand there is a relatively new tapas restaurant in Old Town, which I have yet to visit. I know that tapas is not new, but I'm wondering, is this becoming a new trend of dining in the DC area?

Phyllis Richman: Tapas ahve been around for a long time and contiinue to be popular, as do the other all=appetizer dinners such as mezze at Middle Eastern restaurants, dim sum at Chinese restaurants.

Arlington, VA: Hi Phyllis:

Regarding good Indian food in this area: for cheap eats, authentic food, the best naan (and butter chicken, for that matter) I've had in the area, and a sitting area that has views of TVs playing Indian music videos, Delhi Dhaba in Arlington is the best.

Phyllis Richman: I like Delhi Dhaba for its friendliness and rock-bottom prices, bkut I've never found the food to be particularly good.

arlington, va: You should check out Asahi in Arlington/Courthouse for Sushi - it's better than the other places you've reviewed recently.

Phyllis Richman: I've tried it, and I think it's not up to the others I've mentioned. To each his own.

washington dc: hey phyllis,
why is it so difficult for the district of columbia to master the new york, crunchy, yet oh-so-chewy bagel?? have you tasted or heard of any bagel that compares to the ones of our native northern neighbors. i could eat bagels every day if i could find ones that are half way decent. i think this city is going too gourmet and losing sight of the classic basics, such as the plain bagel. your comments have been great so far. thanks.

Phyllis Richman: I think Chesapeake and Manhattan's bagels are good IF you find some that are well browned. Too often they are undercooked. I've very much lliked the bagels at the Bread Line, but they are perhaps lighter than the ones you crave. I think the H & H imports from New York haven't lived up to expectations. I haven't tried th bagels at Bagel de Lox, but I have heard good reports. Most of all, I totally agree that bagels should be plain, or perhaps topped with seeds, onion or garlic. But blueberry or jalapeno bagels are not bagels, they are foolishness.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis:

I'll be visiting London in a week. Any tips/recommendations for good restaurants to visit?

Phyllis Richman: Take a ton of money. And maybe a few sandwiches.

Washington, DC: Since you were just in Italy, I have a pasta question for your. What is gnocchi?

Phyllis Richman: Gnocchi are small potato dumplings, about the size of a thimble. They can be sublime or taste like half-cooked glue, depending on the skill of the pasta chef.

Washington D.C.: Atami in Arlington is very good for sushi, as is Cafe Japone in Dupont circle.

Phyllis Richman: Good suggestions. I forget too many place when I'm typing on-line.

Washington DC: I recently read that Lespinasse was given the AAA 5 diamond award. I have never been--do you think it is worth a visit? How expensive is it really?

Phyllis Richman: Lespinasse has one of the most beautiful dining rooms iin town, and a promising new chef. Its prices have dropped since it reopened this fall, and is somewhat more realiztic. I'd say it is prices around where the other top restaurants are. In a month or so I'll be ready to review it, so I'll be able to tell you more.

St. Mary's City, MD: When it comes to crabs, there's really no place like St. Mary's County--the best you'll ever have, no matter how you like them.

Phyllis Richman: You've sold me.

Washington, DC: As a Capitol Hill resident, I agree that there is a market for new restaurants -- especially mid-scale, good ones. I've been here for three years and tried several of the existing establishments with mixed results -- Park Cafe, Aatish, Anatola, Banana Cafe, Il Radiccio, etc. What am I missing that I haven't tried?

Phyllis Richman: You've covered most, but Barolo has a good chef whom you might want to sample.

DC: For the folks going to London, I have some general advice -- always think ethnic. I agree we have some very good Indian food in DC, but there's noplace like the seat of the British Empire for excellent -- and comparatively inexpensive -- Indian food.

Phyllis Richman: Good idea. Thanks.

Washington, DC: Just returned from Italy (Florence) myself. I highly recommend the restaurants near Santo Spirito. There are three in the square, and they are all good. The one across the square from the church (I forget the name) has excellent gnocci. But it's in a very rich sauce, and I'd save it for an evening meal.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

washington, DC: I'm originally from Bologna (have lived in DC only for 5 years). While in Bologna you may want to try Ristorante Notai, Pappagallo, La Buca di San Pietro, Drogheria della Rosa, Antica Trattoria Romagnola and one of the innumerable 'osteria' in town. I've heard there's a good new one in Via Broccaindosso, and there are old spots like Osteria Senzanome or Osteria Santa Caterina. However, 'real' Bolognesi generally eat outside the city, where you can still find 'crescentine' (wonderful fried dough served with Prosciutto, other Pork-based products, and cheeses), pastas and the typically bolognese 'arrosto misto' for reasonable prices. You should ask for directions for Ca' del Vento, Novella, or Iano. Or try La Ciccieria in Castel San Pietro (here they don't serve crescentine). Some friends recently raved about a place called Dandy. Apparently a bit pricey but very good.

And if you want to see one of the oldest wine-sipping spots in the world (dating from the 13th century, if I'm not mistaken) go to Osteria del Sole (vicolo de' Ranocchi) around 7:00 on a Friday or Saturday evening. It used to be quite the scene. For a more upscale aperitif, try Zanarini or Rosa Rosae, both not more than 5 minutes away from the main square (Piazza Maggiore)

Phyllis Richman: I'm certainly glad you signed on today.Thanks very much.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,

I was wondering if you had a chance to try Raku again, since it is no longer owned by Mark Miller??

Phyllis Richman: I was back tkhere recently and foud it pretty much as it was. The food was mildly pleasant, everything could have used some improvement, and it was slightly too expensive for quick-serivce formula food in small portions. The noodle soups were the best bets.

Washington, DC: For the reader visiting London:

Just moved back from 2 years in Highgate. Not to be missed is Wagamamas--a noodle bar in Oxford Circus. By far the best eats in London--healthy, tasty, and relatively cheap. Enjoy!

Phyllis Richman: Sounds tempting to me.

Annandale: In the past and right now your 50 Best Pick of Restaurants have included Pho Queen Bee in Clarendon, VA. I've tried it there and noticing the atmosphere is geared toward American crowd. Their food is geared toward American taste, and their price is way over the top. To other traditional Vietnamese restaurants, Pho Queen Bee is not closed enough to be the best. But you pick them often and always. Why?

Phyllis Richman: I continue to pick Pho75, which is generally ful of Vietnamese diners. But I left Queen Bee off the list of 50 favorites this year; it isn't up to its competition now, I think.

Baltimore: The Proustian little slider-burgers from Little Tavern are still available in Wheaton, Laurel, and E.Baltimore. I just called them to check.

Phyllis Richman: Hmm, I wonder if I have time. . .

rockville, md: bagel City is not a chain, but the bagels at its one loation are the real thing, although they they have succumbed to the sweet bagel disease.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't tried them, but thanks for adding them to my list.

Arlington, VA: I've recently heard positive things about Tabard Inn, any thoughts? Also where do you think the best burger in town is?
Thanks

Phyllis Richman: I've just written my review of the Tabard Inn (whcih has a new chef). It will appear in a few weeks.

And I'll appear here again next week. Great questions this week, but once again I couldn't get to even half of them Please don't get discouraged but keep submitting them. And have a delicious week.

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