By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington, D.C.: How in the world did Cheesecake Factory get to be in the top 50 favorite restaurants in Washington according to the most recent Zagat's guide?

Phyllis Richman: Hello on another glorious Thursday noontime. Just the day for a stroll and a window seat. Or to talk about food here on-line.

Before I get to this first question, I've been saving up some comments.

Good news: Jill Rose, the talented and creative pastry chef who was at Lespinasse has come back. Souinds like an interesting team, Jill with the young new Michelin-stffed chef who arrived in Sept.

Next, someone asked about Puerto Rican restaurants last week, and I said I didn't know of any that were still open. Then I remembered that Banana Cafe, on 8th St. SE, serves some Puerto Rican dishes.

Third, I'm off to California, now that the dining guide will be out (Sunday) and the dining book is done (coming out around Thanksgiving). So there will be no chat line here next Thursday.

Now, to the question: The statistical quirks of the Zagat Guide are many. One is that a restaurant like Cheesecake Factory is likely to have been visited in the past year by people who have been there before and like it. Thus, those voting on it--who are supposed to have visited it in the past year--are those who favor it. People who don't like it have probably by now given up on it, and thus don't vote on it. So oit gets an overwhelming proportion of high ratings.

Washington DC: My husband and I often visit the Blue and Gold Brewing Co. in Arlington. Recently, we discovered they have closed. Do you know if they have relocated and if so where they are?

Phyllis Richman: Haven't heard any news. Maybe someone else out there knows.

Arlington, VA: Someone I know is looking to put together a dinner of Portuguese cuisine. Are there any Portuguese restaurants in the area, good or otherwise? Does this usually get lumped together with other Iberian foods?

Phyllis Richman: There are a couple of restaurants in Montgomery County that have a couple of Portuguese dishes. Nova Europa is one. They are rather tame representations of Portuguese cooking, in my estimation.

Winston-Salem, NC: As a former DC resident in the 80's, I used to frequent a neighborhood Chinese retsaurant in Annadale, I belive that always had Peking Duck available. I think the name was Duck-Chen or something like that. They had the most crispy and wonderful Duck, always availble. Are you familiar with it? Does it still exist?

Phyllis Richman: Duck Chang is the one you're recalling. I'm not sure whether it's still open, but I think I recall that Peking Gourmet Inn--which has good Peking duck--grew out of that restaurant.

washington, dc: Last week there was a discussion of Sunday dining. You pointed out that the most of the main chefs are at home on Sunday. What is the best to way ensure that the main chef is on duty - call the restaurant? Or just assume weekday is the best day? avoid August (for vacation)?

Phyllis Richman: All of the above. I was recently at a restaurant where I suspected--from the cooking--that the chef was not there. So I asked my waiter to ask the chef a question for me. Sure enough, the waiter returned with an apology that the chef was in Paris.

You can try calling ahead and asking if the chef is there, and probably but not surely get a straight answer. And you can make a solid guess that at a restaurant open 7 days a week the chef's night off will be Sunday (though at 1789 it's Monday or Tuesday).

Rockville, MD: Are there good restaurants serving Scandinavian cuisine in the area?

Phyllis Richman: There aren't even bad restaurants serving Scandinavian food.

Ashburn, VA: What exactly are your credentials? I'm not questioning them, I'm just interested in how one becomes a restaurant critic.

Phyllis Richman: At this point, I'd have to say that my main credential is 25 years as a restaurant critic, 22 of them at the Post. Some (aw shucks) awards along the way, I suppose, add to my credentials (as does the course in food writing I participate in teaching each fall in Napa Valley--next week). The question you probably mean is, what were my credentials when I started. There aren't any established ones in the field. I had cooked extensively and traveled a lot, taught some cooking classes and took some as well. Thus, my credentials were informal, honed through writing about food before I settled into a fulltime restaurant critic job.

Arlington,VA: Where are the good Korean restaurants in the area? I've been to a few in Alexandria, but it's been hard to find REALLY good kimchi!

Phyllis Richman: Probably the place to find really good kimchi is at Lotte, the Asian supermarket (there are two branches, I think). It sells about 15 kinds of kim chi, and that doesn't include the kind in jars.

As for Korean restaurants, there are many, and several of them, at least, are terrific. Along Annandale Rd. and on Rte. 50 near Annandale they are plentiful. As for which has really good kim chi, you'll have to sample that for yourself. I couldn't survive a comparison of all of them.

Alexandria, Virginia: Good Afternoon: I've received numerous calls concerning your statement about my wife Jill Light over something you mentioned last week. Just wanted you to know that Jill Light former Opening Executive Pastry Chef of Landsdowne Resort, and former Executive Pastry Chef of the Four Season's Hotel in Manhattan currenty owns and operated her own company, Jilly's Cake Studio. The Jill I believe you were speaking of was Jill Rose, very talented indeed, but no the same person. As always, keep up the great work, your efforts are appreciated by those of us in the trade.
Thanks, Ron McCormick
Jilly's Cake Studio

Phyllis Richman: Ooops. Sorry. Both of those Jills are very talented pastry chefs, and last week probably wasn't the first time I mistyped the last name.

Arlington, VA: Good Afternoon.
I went to Kinkeads last week and the meal was very good although I felt something was lacking...does the owner, Bob Kinkead, still cook? I was there on a Monday so perhaps it was his night off?

Phyllis Richman: Yes and yes. Kinkead is indeed still cooking there. And I think Monday is his day off (probably Sunday, too). I was there on a Monday this summer and was disappointed with my meal. I went back another day, and everything was up to its usual high standard.

Washington, DC: I understand that one of my favorite restaruants, Provence, has gone through major personnel changes. Do you know the current status of the chef and food quality?

Phyllis Richman: Provence is somewhere in transition between French and Italian. I tried it this summer, after Yannick Cam had left, and it was dreary. I hope the owner, who is Italian, has more luck in making it worthwhile as an Italian restaurant.

Arlington,VA: There is a good Korean restaurant on Little River Turnpike (heading West off of 395 in a small plaza on the left). At the moment, the name escapes me!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

Washington, D.C.: I understand that Yannick Cam opened a new restaurant in town. Can you tell me the name and what you think of it?

Phyllis Richman: Okay, let's get all our Yannick Cam questions dealt with at once. He's now fulltime at El Catalan, and I hear he's bringing a Provencal touch to it. When I was there last, it was still trying to find itself.

Bethesda, MD: I've heard that Eatzi's is coming to Rockville. Do you have high hopes that it will finally bring to us something better than Sutton Place and Fresh Fields?

Phyllis Richman: On this subject, the New York Times did a big story yesterday. It was great fun, and Eatzi's sounds like something we will al have to experience at least once. The critic, Eric Asimov, found the food institutional, of course, but liked some of it a lot.

Washington, DC: What is the proper tipping protocol for waitstaff at a buffet meal?

Phyllis Richman: I don't have a definitive answer on this, but if the waitstaff actually does something in the way of serving you, I'd suggest 10 percent.

Washington DC: With the recent closings of the Lion D'Or and Jean-Louis, what do you think is the future of French restaurants in Washington?

Phyllis Richman: Try Lespinasse, then let me know if you're still worried.

Washington, D.C.: Any insights about in this month's Washingtonian reporting a feud between you and the chef at Greenwood?

Phyllis Richman: None whatsoever. The City Paper does, though.

Washington, DC: My fiance's company is having a party this weekend and for dinner they're having a Japanese buffet, primarily sushi. I figure this is a good oppurtunity to try sushi for the first time, but I'm still a little squeamish. Have any suggestions for a first-timer on what to look for?

Phyllis Richman: Some sushi is easy for the squeamish: shrimp (which is cooked), egg, California roll (which is cooked surimi plus avocado and vegetables). Eel, too, is cooked and glazed with a sweet-salty sauce, so it should be easy unless you don't like its fishy taste.

But do try to screw up your courage and taste some raw fish. Think of smoked salmon--which is raw. Tuna and yellowtail are mild and delicious. Dip the fish side of the sushi into soy sauce and think smoked salmon.

Arlington, VA: Hi Phyllis,
A colleague is raving about
Taberna del Alabardero, but cautioned that the menu is expensive.

Is it worth the price?

Phyllis Richman: It's impossible to know whether an expensive restaurant is worth the price to a particular diner. WHat I can say is, if you are comfortable spending a hefty price on dinner, Taberna del Alabardero is likely to be a good place to do that. There--have I hedged enough?

Amherst, MA: Hi Phyllis-I'm wondering about the restaurants out in the Virginia wine country- such as Prince St. Michelle, etc, are they comparable to many of the french restaurants in DC? Is it worth the trip?

Phyllis Richman: Worth the trip or the price?

I've been trying to get out to Prince Michel Vineyards' restaurant for a long time. I hear it is quite good. But it is a trek.

Steve in McLean: Phyllis, what are your thoughts about dining at chef's tables or kitchen tables in restaurants where such things are available? Through your job, you probably wouldn't want to compromise your (relative) anonimity, but have you often tried this approach when you are out of town? Is this a good way of experiencing a representative cross-section of the menu?

Phyllis Richman: Chefs' tables--which mean eating in the kitchen during the evening service--are almost like attending a cooking class during your dinner--or a nightclub act. You have a chance to see a professional kitchen in action, and you can learn a lot about how your dinners are made, maybe even figure out how to order to greatest advantage. It's' bound to be an interesting evening.

Fairfax, VA: Phyllis, Love your column and this forum. Since you always make reservations anonymously, I always use your name when I make reservations! Just kidding ...
Tomorrow is my 5th wedding anniversary and I've made reservations (in your name, of course) at La Bergerie. I was looking for a cozy, romantic, French place with the best food possible. How does La Bergerie's combination of atmosphere and food stack up against others in the romantic french restaurant genre - La Refuge, Le Vieux Logis, La Chaumiere to name a few. I haven't been to any of these places; just know what I read (in your guidebook) and would appreciate a comparative opinion from you. How about your top five "little romantic french joints", in order of preference? Thanks

Phyllis Richman: For my favorite romantic joint, you'll just have to wait a day or two for my 50-Favorites dining guide. But I can say that La Bergerie is a pleasant, comfortable, attractive and experienced French restaurant. It is definitely a good place, though whether it is romantic depends on the style you like. This is brick-walled, with appealing banquettes, but it is not small and dimly lit. It's worth a try.

washington, dc: Thank you for your answer about chef on duty - Somehow I cannot submit my second question (tried 3 times), let's try one more time.

re Zagat

As you pointed out some time ago in the Food Section, the best way to find the new restaurant is find food reviewers whose taste is similar to yours. (In Washington, my husband and I found out that we can count on yours - the other reviewers' taste is somewhat different.) The hardest part is out of restaurant review where you cannot find a person by try and error. I appreciated your Los Angeles recommendation.

I used Zagat when we went to Boston - we went two restarurants from the top 10 - total disappointment.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks, thanks and more thanks.

No one reviewer can suit everyone's taste. Sometimes I can pick a restaurant by being contrarian--if such-and-such reviewer hates it, I'm bound to like it, and vice versa.

DC: I HAVE HEARD ABOUT WHITE TRUFFLES BUT NEVER TRIED THEM. WHERE CAN I GO IN DC TO TRY THEM?

Phyllis Richman: Black truffles are in the most expensive French restaurants, but you should wait until later in the fall or winter to try them. White truffles, which are Italian, are just coming into the market. It's been a bad season, with so few that they are VERY expensive. So...proceed cautiously. Galileo, for one, is serving them. And the best way to appreciate them is on something very simple: plain fettucine with just butter and truffles, or even on a softly scrambled egg.

As for canned truffles, they are not worth the money.

Somewhere, USA: Do many restrants have chef tables in the area? Do they require a certain number in your dining party? What a great idea.

Phyllis Richman: A few have them--usually one large table in the kitchen. Galileo has one, as do Citronelle, the Inn at Little WAshington and others that don't immediately come to mind. At some restaurants, you can get a table close enough to the open kitchen that you're almost there: DC Coast, Bis, Red Sage.

Arlington, VA: My 60ish parents are in town and want to out for dinner tonight somewhere with a fabulous view of the city, terrific food and nothing too "foo-foo" (says Dad).
Can you help me with any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: It's nearly impossible to dine reasonably well with a view of the city. The Capitol View at the Hyatt on Capitol Hill is pretty good, but the view of the capitol is partly blocked by office buildings. Some Crystal City highrise hotels - and even Rosslyn - have the view, but they are standard hotel food. This city does not show itself well at meals.

Alexandria, VA: Phyllis, I believe tbat Eatzi's was created by Phil Romano, the same talented restaurateur that created Fuddruckers, Macaroni Grill and Nacho Mammas.

Mango Mike

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the information.

Note that this came from a restaurateur--Mango Mike; I'm glad you identified yourself to us. I hear that some other chefs and restaurateurs hang around this chat line, so I invite you to identify yourself, ask questions, make comments, start feuds, whatever.

Washington, DC: Is there a "Best Waiter" award in this city? Who would you nominate?

Phyllis Richman: It sure would be a good idea, though it would be necessarily unfair (I, for one, don't get to try out but a small percentage of the waiters in the area). I did make a special effort this season, though, to at least note the bartenders and wine stewards I thought were doing a particularly good job, and noted a few in the dining guide.

DC: I READ AN EARLIER QUESTION ABOUT KINKEADS-ARE CHEFS LIKE CHEF KINKEAD REALLY IN THE KITCHEN DOING ALL THE WORK-OR ARE JUST GETTING ALL THE CREDIT?

Phyllis Richman: There are different kinds of executive chefs. Some provide some kind of direction and guidance but aren't necessarily on site, much less in the kitchen. Others are really there, nearly all the time. That's one of the reasons Kinkead's and the Inn at Little Washington stay at the top of the heap year after year.

Silver Spring, MD: Has the food at BET on Jazz improved since your initial review a few weeks back? I went last week and it seemed kind of lackluster--although the atmosphere is great. What's up? It seems to me that they could use some tip from Georgia Brown's.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been back yet, but I'd guess that even IF there was a committment to raise the bar, it would take some time to get that kitchen in shape.

If anybody else goes there and wants to share experiences, just speak up in the coming weeks.

Arlington, VA: Where is your favorite place for afternoon tea?

Phyllis Richman: Now that Jill Rose is back, it will probably be the CArlton Hotel (which houses Lespinasse). I also love the Asian style teas at Teaism and Ching Ching Cha.

Washington, DC: Can you tell me more about the course in food writing that you are participating in next week? Is it open to the public? If I could do anything in the world, it would be writing about food--I revel in all aspects of the procuring, cooking and consuming of food, and think I'm a good writer, but have hesitated thus far to pursue it and in my parents words thus "throw away my $100,000" education in political science (which by the way, I'm not using anyway). Any pointers on how to proceed with the food writing avenue?

Phyllis Richman: The course I teach is at the Culinary Institute of America's Napa Valley campus, which is called Greystone. I do a three-day course with several other food writers: Ruth Reichl, Corby Kummer, Barbara Kafka, Laurie Ochoa, Joan Zoloth, Suzanne Hamlin and more. Then, on Thursday and Friday there is a cookbook writing workshop.

I'm told these courses cost a bundle (we do it mostly for the fun, certainly not for the bit of money), but it is a working vacation for a lot of the students. So it is a good but expensive start; it's taught every fall.

And now it's time for me to go pack. I'll see you (or read you) all here in two weeks--after you've digested the dining guide.

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