By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

washington: Kentucky has its Bourbon and Mint Julips, Baltimore has its Black Eyed Susans, Florida and Texas claim Margaritaville, and California has its Martini Bars... what does Washington have to claim as its drink

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon. It's finally happened: a rainy Thursday. During every previous chat I've been aware of wishing I could do this on a laptop at some outdoor cafe. Not so today. This is the prefect day for a cozy rear booth, a good book and a bowl of soup.

Before I get to the question at hand, I want to address a few questions that have been raised during the week.

A reader called and left no number for me to call back, so I'll try responding here. She complained that in my review of Cafe Ole I referred to Israeli couscous, and insisted that couscous might be Moroccan, Tunisian, etc., but not Israeli. What she perhaps didn't realize is that there is a (currently popular) grain (or strictly speaking, a grain preparation) called Israeli couscous. It is a larger grain than the more familiar couscous, about the difference between regular tapioca and pearl tapioca.

Question 2: In the on-line discussion--which I wasn't able to access at the moment I tried--someone complained that the entree prices on my review (of Vidalia, as I recall) were too low. I don't know whether she was referring to a weekly review, a dining guide review or the one in my dining book. In any cases, those prices come from the restaurants themselves, but in the case of the Magazine reviews and dining guides, they are checked against the menus. So, while I don't do them, I can vouch for their being as accurate as possible AT THE MOMENT. The problem comes when someone keeps a review and visits the restaurant months or years later. They're bound to be too low at that point. If there is one thing we can count on beyond death and taxes, it's rising restaurant prices. So if the price is crucial to you, verify it on the phone before you go.

Third, someone wanted to know of any Puerto Rican restaurants hereabouts. I do too. There was one, El Encanto, but it closed.

And fourth, on last week's chat line there were some complaints about New Heights in the aftermath of my positive review. One of the owners, Amarjeet Singh, wrote me to apologize to any customers who were inconvenineced (agreed that the aftermath was like a hurricane) and asked that any who have such complaints please call and send along an email address so they might try to apologize in person.

And now, to WAshington's special drinks. In the Kennedy administration, it was scotch with warm milk. In the Carter administration it was Billy Beef. In other words, it depends on they style of the current administration, I think. What now? Diet Coke? I'm not sure. But DC does have the busiest Starbucks location in the whole chain, I'm told. Maybe decaf cappuccino is our drink. Any other nominations?

Washington, DC: In response to last week's question on local chefs trained at L'Academie de Cuisine...Jacques Van Staden, Chef and Partner in Cafe Ole graduated from there in 1993.

Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, the guy who serves the Israeli couscous.

Annandale, VA: Besides downtown Washington, where is the best place in the Washington suburbs to live if you don't like to cook and want to be close to good restaurants and take-out?

Phyllis Richman: That's easy: Arlington.

Washington, DC: Goldoni update (really, I am not working for the restaurant!!) Still not open, but looking like it is on the verge. Walls are painted, clothes are on the tables, and I thought I spied a staff meeting the other evening. Any news on the expected opening date?

Phyllis Richman: I called and was told it is opening tomorrow. We'll see.

Austin, TX: We used to live in Arlington and ate at the Vietnamese restaurants frequently. I especially loved the shrimp muffins - deep fried starchy cake with a shrimp on top dipped in sauce, but don't remember their name to ask for them here, or to find a recipe. Can you help? Lynn

Phyllis Richman: Those wonderful little appetizers have been called shrimp cakes when I've seen them on menus. I haven't found a recipe for them, but surely some Vietnamese cookbook has one. They are a cross between a pudding and a pancake in texture, the shape of tiny muffins, topped with a shrimp. If anyone out there finds a recipe, please let us know.

Washington, D.C.: I guess today breaks your streak of holding these chats on beautiful days.

I was wondering if you have tried the pizza at Cafe Luna yet. I consider myself a pizza connoisseur and I think Luna now has some of the best pizza in town, even rivaling Pizzeria Paradiso.

Phyllis Richman: Let's see how the weather changes the mood of the chat.

Anyway, I have tried Cafe Luna's pizza, though not in the past year. Unless it has changed, I think it isn't even close competition to Paradiso.

Steve in McLean: Phyllis,
I loved Crescent City in Alexandria, but it closed two years ago and left me virtually gumboless. I have enjoyed Louisiana Express, but I would appreciate any recommendations from you for good gumbo.

Phyllis Richman: There was very good gumbo on 8th St. SE - Louisiana-something (sorry, I've drawn a blank on the name), but I'm not sure it's still open. Louisiana Express in Bethesda was also a source of excellent gumbo.

Washington, DC: As a former server I'd like to give my opinion on the discussion raised last week about servers providing their names to guests. When I waited tables in college, I quickly learned that, even though I wore a name tag, I was never addressed by my name...rather, guests would often get my attention by calling me "honey" "baby" "sweetheart" "darling" "dear" "sugar" "cutie" "doll" etc. Talk about getting personal! I only appreciate being addressed in that manner by my partner or my mother. In fact, I can think of only one attention getting name that is slightly less offensive - "Ma'am" or "Miss" which is just as offensive unless you are age 16. In my business now, if a client repeatedly addressed me by those sorts of names it would definitely be disrespectful and could be considered harassment. Why do servers deserve any less respect from their clientele? Everyone, including your server, has a name ­ if you are going to address her or him ­ use it.

Stacey

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for letting us all in on your thoughts about this. I think it's very useful for us diners to understand what life on the other side of the table is like. Even so, I find it disconcerting to call strangers by their name in such situations. "Miss" or "waiter" sounds more businesslike to me. But styles change, and clearly we are in a transition in this regard.

Vienna, VA: Do you have any comments on the article in Esquire that ranked DC as an also-ran as a restaurant city? Including the snide remark that the best restaurant in DC is actually an hour away, you all know which one I mean.

Phyllis Richman: I'm not sure Esquire is where I'd turn for my lifestyle advice.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis, Thanks for your restaurant reviews-- they're very helpful. However, one of the restaurants that you review favorably, Mrs. Simpson's, provided terrible, rude service to myself and a friend. We wrote a letter to the restaurant management about the bad experience and never heard back. Do you suggest any other recourse, such as issuing a formal complaint with a small businesses organization?
Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: I haven't reviewed Mrs. Simpson's in several years, and the last time I was there, the food was merely all right, not as satisfying as it had once been. But it's a restaurant that is known for awfully nice service, so I'm surprised that you had a problem that hasn't been addressed. I'd try giving them a call and asking for the manager. Maybe it won't work, but it's the most you can do that's possibly effective (some restaurants, like some people, never get around to responding to letters). I don't think complaints to some other consumer organization have much effect.

Amherst, MA: What are the criteria you use in rating restaurants? It seems as thought there are restaurants in the DC area, although not as well-known,(such as Khyber Pass in Woodley Park, or even the Lebanese Taverna for that matter) that are as dynamic and innovative as the "standard" restaurants that always make it to the top 20.

Phyllis Richman: I evaluate restaurants in accord with their type, their style, their competitors, etc. Thus, though I like Lebanese Taverna, I have never found its food to be the equal of Bacchus', which is also Lebanese. Khyber Pass, the last two times I was there, had sad, dreary Afghan food, not nearly in the league of Faryab's or several others.

Arlington, VA: The worst meal I have had in Washington was at Philips Flagship restaurant - it was an abominable experience. The best was at Vidalia. Have you ever been to Philips? I was roped into going for some reason.

Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, I've been to Phillips'. I always feel embarrassed that it is all that many tourists know about DC dining.

Atlanta, GA: Dear Ms. Richman,

What is the best way for a visitor to your city to find out about the VERY BEST dining establishments. The restaurants listed in the visitor's guides are often no more than paid ads.
Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: Try this website.

Washington DC: Yesterday's NY Times had a great article on restaurants in San Francisco's North Beach. Are there any comparable restaurants in this area? I am hard pressed to think of any.

Phyllis Richman: Yes, that was a marvelous article. We do have good, even wonderful Italian restaurants, but they are not clustered in a neighborhood like San Francisco's. That concentration creates an exchange of values and ideas, brings a consistent following, acts to the benefit of all, I believe.

fairfax, va: Phylis, I had the unique pleasure of eating at Lespinnasse a while ago with the former Chef de Cuisine at the Lespinnasse in NY (one of the top 5 up there). I was pleased to meet Troy Dupuy and his staff and see the kitchen. I hear Troy is no longer there. What happened, i mean what really happened. And, why is it diners up in NY can support a fancy restaurant like Lespinnasse at the St Regis and folks down here prefer not to.

Phyllis Richman: Lespinasse has a new chef, a one-star chef from FRance who has cooked with the top chefs in that country. And if he is very good, I believe you will find that DC can support a top restaurant. Troy Dupuy is undoubtedly a talented chef, but I don't think he ever developed his best here. I was often disappointed with his food--though it was stunning to see. I heard from several sources in the restaurant that his food costs were unsuppportably high, which means that such a restaurant will lose money fast--even if it is packed.

I think it unfair to blame the city for an individual chef's failings.

Fairfax, Virginia: In a perfect world, or a good restaurant, I should not have to call the server anything to get their attention. Eye contact would be enough. So no need for names -- I agree that demeaning references are inappropriate. We lived in Europe twice. Servers there tend to be full-time professional servers. I never heard any names, but I often looked up to find a server glancing my way, available if needed but avoiding the "How's everything?" This isn't Europe, it's not a perfect world, and some of us customers can be boorish, but well-trained servers can be both excellent and anonymous.

Phyllis Richman: Hurrah! Well said! I only wish every restaurant would post your comments on the kitchen door.

Rosslyn, VA: The Post Food section periodically runs pieces on restaurants that are crummy but good, that is look dreadful outside but are fine inside. One near me is the Quarterdeck in Rosslyn. Do you have any D.C. places that merit the designation?

Phyllis Richman: I'm with you on the Quarterdeck. It's the place that we turned to when the Keyhole Inn closed.

In DC, you might consider Mr. Egan's, the Tune Inn, Stoney's--and surely more that don't come to mind at the moment. None of them has those great crabs that the Quarterdeck serves, though (which reminds me: add the DAncing Crab to this list).

D.C.: I have to defend Mrs. Simpson's. I love the restaurant, and the service has, in my experience, always been impeccable. I'm really surprised the management didn't offer an apology, though.

Question: With the weather getting colder, where can I go for a great bowl of chili?

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. While any restaurant slips up sometimes, I'm glad to hear that Mrs. Simpson's is still on track.

Chili: Hard Times Cafe, Bistro Bistro. I'm sure this group can come up with dozens more, too.

San Francisco, CA: When I lived in D.C. a decade ago, my favorite restaurants were both Italian: Cantina D'Italia and Vincenzo's. When I reurned recently, I was told that they were both long gone. I had always believed they were long-time institutions. Are they truly gone or operating under other names? Can their chefs be found elsewhere?

Phyllis Richman: Cantina is long closed, unfortunately. It was the first really ambitious Italian restaurant in DC. As for Vincenzo, it is now Sostanza, an Italian steakhouse, under the same owner. This is not the best of its incarnations.

Washington, DC: How much time elapses between the initial review of a new restaurant and the second review? I have Ardeo particularly in mind.

Phyllis Richman: I wait a couple of months before I review a new restaurant, and given the Magazine's production time, that means a review comes three months at the earliest. As for re-reviewing it, I do that only when there has been a major change.

What's up with ARdeo?

mclean va: does the queen bee have any rivals in n. arlington when price is a consideration?

Phyllis Richman: It sure does: Cafe Dalat, Nam Viet, and at least 2-3 others.

NW Washington: Phyllis,
First let me say what a fan I am of your work. My question comes as a result of a discussion I had with some friends after they had returned from dinner at The Prime Rib. They once again stated their anger towards restaurants that give poor service to their younger patrons (we're ll 24-26). Why is it that the nicer restaurants in town tend to turn their nose up at customers who aren't at least middle age? We generally make friendly and fairly low-maintenence customers and have no problem rewarding good service with a 20% tip (we've worked in the buisness). The problem is that most waiters never get the opportunity to find out because before you can make a good impression you're already their last priority. I know that you're fond of the rationale that if one group of people gets bad service, then the same is most likely true for everybody, but this is not the case (I'm talking about restaurants that are consistantly rated very highly for their service). We're paying the same high prices, we should get the same first rate service. thank you.

Phyllis Richman: I think you're right. Just as waiters have traditionally behaved as if they expected women to be stingy tippers, they often treat young diners as if they don't deserve good service.

One evening I was meeting my children and their friends--all young adults--at an elegant NY restaurant. One of the men came without a jacket, and the staff refused to seat him. The next time I went to that restaurant, I saw several older men without jackets.

All I can say is that, unfair as this is, at least you'll have your time come eventually.

Capitol Hill, DC: You talked earlier about gumbo. Louisiana Cafe, in the 700 block of 8th Street SE, is the place you were thinking of. And it is still open, and is usually very good. Their crab imperial is exceptional.

Phyllis Richman: That's the one. Thanks for helping out my laggard memory.

Washington DC: I definitely vote for coffee as the drink of Washington DC. There are places on every corner and also many coffeebars opening, like Trist (?) in Adams Morgan, Chi Cha Lounge on U Street and Xandos in Dupont Circle.

Phyllis Richman: You might add tea, too (Teaism, Ching Ching Cha).

Chip in Santa Monica, CA: Phyllis,
What is your take on LA dining? Or do you have a good source? I'm a newcomer here from McLean and read your views over the web now that I'm without the post. An idea for T-giving with my parents would be ideal. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: L.A. has one of the best restaurant critics in the country: Sherri Virbila at the L. A. Times. So just search out her dining guide.

Gaithersburg, MD: I have two questions. First, since I live in Maryland, I was wondering if you would consider more reviews of Maryland restaurants outside of Bethesda. Second, I was wondering if you ever review lower-priced restaurants that are not ethnic. I would be interested in hearing your opinion of the Cheesecake Factory, for example.

Phyllis Richman: No, you don't want to hear my opinion of the cheesecake factory.

Of if you do, you'll probably find it on this website or in my dining book. It's not worth repeating, though.

Washington, DC: Did you read the article in last week's NYTimes Food section on Michel Richard Citronelle?

It was interesting to read...
it definitely had a cocky tone to it though.
At one point, the writer was surprised that Washingtonians were excited about a restauarant "that isn't a steakhouse."

What do you think of this attitude? Is it really that common? I had no idea.

Thanks so much for doing this every week.

Phyllis Richman: The NY Times writer lives in Washington, though she works in NY. That says something for Washington restaurants.

Washington, DC: In reference to the crummy but good topic, there is Colonel Brooks Tavern near the Brookland Metro Station which looks like a typical bar on the outside but serves an interesting upscale brand of food. I've been there a few times, since it is out of the way for me, but I have friends who rave about it.

Phyllis Richman: I, too, hear nice things about it, but I haven't been there in years. It's a great addition to a part of town that has too few restaurants.

Washington DC: There seems to be a growing tendency for restaurants to let people smoke cigars as long as they are not in the main dining room. We had a dinner on the terrace at the Old Angler's Inn ruined by a cigar smoker, and it seems impossible to reach the dining room at New Heights without passing through a stench coming from the bar. Other than boycotting, what can be done?

Phyllis Richman: What we need are more prominently displayed articles about the dangers of cigar smoke.

By the way,a lot of questions are coming in about restaurants for Christmas dinner. Instead of trying to answer them one by one, let me say that I don't keep a list, but the Weekend section starts running ads for them later in the season. Hotel restaurants and Asian restaurants are the ones most likely to be open for Christmas (and Thanksgiving).

washington,d.c.: I'll try again with my what happened to Nathan's in Georgetown. The last time I was there, the tables were set but the door was barred.

Phyllis Richman: I don't know when you were there, but I called the restaurant, and it is definitely open.

washington, d.c.: If your last meal of all time would be on Sunday night, what restaurant in d.c. would you choose & why?

Phyllis Richman: The problem is that a lot of DC restaurants are closed on Sunday nights, and even those that are open often have the sous chef cooking. So I wouldn't make my last meal Sunday night.

Dupont Circle, DC: Does the DC area have any "pancake houses" with the exception of IHOP in Arlington? they are great when you get a pancake or waffle craving.

Phyllis Richman: Pancake houses have never been as big a deal here as they are in some other places (Williamsburg must have hundreds). There is the old Waffle Shop (Mt. VErnon Ave. in Alexandria, and perhaps still downtown), and Sholl's has good pancakes, though not multi-flavored ones.

Bethesda: Do you do all your reviews yourself or do you have staff/assistants to help you and to research?

Phyllis Richman: It's just me and my fork.

The only time I use other people to help with reviews is when I go on vacation I assign a substitute to write the column; you'll see a different byline when that happens.

Washington, DC: Lately I've been hearing about restaraunts taking swordfish off their menus because of some boycott. Is this just a rumor or is there really some issue I should be aware of?

Phyllis Richman: That swordfish boycott seems to have lost steam, probably because it was an ineffectual way to protest overfishing. I see swordfish on many menus nowadays.

Washington, DC: A few years ago, before I moved here, I was taken to a place called "Dolce Finale", a dessert and coffee spot in the basement of a larger Italian restaurant. It was fantastic and romantic! Does it still exist? And what is the name of the restaurant that runs it?

Phyllis Richman: That was (is?) attached to Pettito's restaurant on Connecticut Ave. in Woodley Park.

Bethesda, MD: There's the Original Pancake House in Bethesda that's good.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the tip.

Washington, DC: When I used to live in South Florida, we had some wonderful German restaurants. I am hungry for some schnitzel and spaetzel. Any suggestions in DC?

Phyllis Richman:
Washington has a couple of German restaurants: Cafe Berlin on Capitol Hill, and Cafe Mozart downtown.

Washington, DC: Dolce Finale is still there across from the Woodley metro, and still wonderful.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

Washington: When you review a restaurant, you always mention desserts, but rarely the name of the Pastry Chef. Is there a specific reason for that? And also, who do you consider the best Pastry Chefs in town?

Phyllis Richman: One reason I don't mention the pastry chef is that I don't necessarily know who the pastry chef is (or that there is a pastry chef) unless the restaurant puts the name on the menu. Chefs often take (and sometimes deserve) the credit for the desserts as well as the rest of the meal. And pastry chefs change more often than do the chefs. When there a talented pastry chef and I know the name, I'm glad to mention it.

For the same reason, I can't be very accurate about who the best pastry chefs are at the moment. I do wish I knew what happened to Jill Light, who was at Lespinasse. She was exceptional.

Fairfax, VA: Morrison-Clark and Kinkead's are good Sunday night last-meal-on-earth choices.

Phyllis Richman: I'd bet my last meal on those two, too. Thanks.

And now it's time to seek out that quiet, cozy booth and a bowl of soup to accompany my good book.

See you back here next Thursday, I hope.

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