By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington DC: Given the number of reviews you do, and your occasional references to favorite restaurants that you presumably eat at just for fun, it occurs to me you must be eating out constantly. How many nights a week do you eat out, and how many times to you eat at a restaurant to be reviewed?

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon everyone.

At the moment I'm enjoyed a wonderful lunch culled from doggie bags (one of the perks of the job). When I eat just for fun these days, it's likely to be at home. That's because I'm finishing up the fall dining guide (out in Oct.) and my new edition of the dining guidebook (out in late Nov.-earlyi Dec.), so I'm eating out nearly every night and many lunches. Whken those are done, I'll be able to strike a better balance, dining out three or four nights a week and a couple of lunches.

Denver: I've learned so much from your reviews and wondered if you have written (or thought of writing) a book about how to critically evaluate food & restaurants, like some of the wine books that are available. Many restaurant reviewers (here in Colorado, at least) aren't very analytical and rarely criticize.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for your kind words and generous suggestion. No, doing the restaurant guidebook and murder mysteries is enough for the moment. I sometimes like to write an article - or a lead to a review - the subject of critical taste, but I haven't tackled the subject in any major way.

Herndon, VA: Don't restaurants hire "secret" diners to rate and evaluate their food and operations?

Phyllis Richman: Some chain restaurants do that. And some new restaurants invite patrons for a shakedown period to dine free and critique the food, the menu and the service.

Washington, DC: Jeffry Tomchek, who was the chef at Old Anglers and Indigo, was to have opened a restaurant at 16th and Rhode Island. What is the status of that opening?

Phyllis Richman: Tomchek opened a restaurant in a hotel at 16th and Rhode Island, then departed unexpectedly. The restaurant is closed.

washington, dc: Why do you tend to like the appitizers more than the entree's in your reviews?

Phyllis Richman: I think many people find appetizers best. That's partly because they often are best, and partly because we tend to be most receptive to them.

Appetizers have several advantages: Sinc ethey are small, they can make a quick, clean impact--while larger entrees sometime show their flaws or grow boring as you eat more of them. SEcond, they come when you are most hungry. Third, they seem to bring ouit the best in a chef, again I think because they are small and challenge the chef to pack a lot of color, taste and texture in a small space.

Washington, DC: I loved your book "The Butter Did It." Do you have any more on the way?

Phyllis Richman: Now, if I could assign one of you each week to ask this question, my next novel would get a great head start. My next book, called MURDER ON THE GRAVY TRAIN, will be out late spring or early summer of 1999.

Okay, enough self-promotion. On to something else:

Washington, DC: Mrs. Richman,
Don't you think the time has long since come when you should retire. After years of water carrying for Roberto Donna isn't it time to make room for someone who truly understands that there is more to cuisine and ambiance than how much free coffee is poured after dinner.
Wouldn't the art of cuisine and the business of restaurants in this city be better served by a fresher, more knowledgeable champion whose world view is not limited to the stye.

Phyllis Richman: At the moment, overwhelmed by doing my guidebook, I'd be glad to take your suggestion. And Mr. Donna would probably applaud it, given the way I reviewed his Barolo restaurant last spring.

Washington DC: What do you think of and suggest for the ARDEO, on Connecticut Avenue, Cleveland Park ?

I could not find a revue from you on that much talked about restaurant

Phyllis Richman: I reviewed Ardeo several weeks ago. It should be on the Style Live section of washingtonpost.com. If it is not up yet, you could probably find it in the general Post website by doing a search.

Anyway, in short, it's a nice place.

arlinton, va: who do you think you are? how does the post justify paying you to eat out?

Phyllis Richman: Good question for you to pose to the Post.

Reston, VA: Phyllis,

Thanks for all your wonderful reviews, chats, and tidbits which make living in DC much more enjoyable!

My fiance is a displaced Jersey-gal, and is finding herself longing for good, authentic Italian food. I'd love to have your picks for the best Italian restaurants in the area, and if it's not off topic...any delis or grocers who carry Italian specialties. (We've found the chains...Fresh Fields, D&D, and Sutton Place.)

Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: Whew! Thanks. It was getting to be a rough chatline hour.

The most authentic Italian restaurant I know is actually run by an American. It's Obelisk. The food is straightforward perfectionist cooking, simple, subtle, with the intrinsic flavors of the ingredients allowed to shine.

As for groceries, there's Vace on Conn. Ave., and Litteri in the Florida Ave. market, and one called, I think, the Italian Grocer or something like that, in Vienna. I'm probably missing a few others as well.

Washington DC: What is your background? Were you a chef, or did you learn all this stuff as you went along?

Phyllis Richman: At this point, since I've been the Post's food critic for almost 23 years, my foreground has become my background. Before that, I had been writing about food and restaurants for national and local magazines, I'd been a caterer, I'd taught cooking and cooked and read a great deal on the subject. There is no specific training for a food critic. For example, while a chef obviously knows the intricacies of food, he or she might not be an accessible writer, or might not understand or reflect the taste of non-chef readers. So there are many paths to the appropriate expertise.

Arlington,VA: There is an Italian grocery store on Lee HIghway...I think the name is the Italian Store?

Keep up the good work, Mrs. Richman.

Phyllis Richman: Ah, yes, that's one I was trying to remember. Thanks. And thanks for the support.

potomac, md: Hi Phyllis:
I enjoyed reading your columns for a long time. But for now, I have a time-pressing question. This is my last day at work and my friends want to take me out. We opted for a late lunch though. They were not quite sure where to take me. could you please recommend a place. We are on 15 and k and I know there are lots of good resturants here. Help please!

Many thanks

Phyllis Richman: You're just a block from the new DC Coast, which I am reviewing next Sunday.You could try it, then see if you agree with my review. And good luck on your next stage, whatever that is.

Bowie, Maryland: Hi Phyllis,

What happened with my favorite restaurant, Marrocco's at 1120 20th Street, NW?

Thank you,

Inger

Phyllis Richman: It's becoming Goldoni, which is to open at the end of the month. As for Morrocco's itself, I suspect the family just decided to retire, but I don't know for sure.

Arlington, Va: Guess this is one of the less generous days for chatters. Oh well, you're still appreciated -- Could you please explain the difference between the 'dining guide' and the 'guidebook?' Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Oops. I needed some editing.

By dining guide, I mean the special issue of the Washington Post magazine devoted to my 50 favorite restaurants.

The dining book is actually a book, for sale at bookstores, supermarkets, Starbucks, etc., and it has reviews of well over 200 restaurants, with lists in the back to cover special interests. It costs $10 to $12, and it is going to replace the edition I wrote two years ago.

washington DC: Mrs. Richman,

Maybe these people who are criticizing you would like to try and do your job better?

We have found your reviews to be mostly on-target.

Phyllis Richman: Nah, I don't think I want to offer anyone else the chance at the moment. Thanks.

washington dc: One thing that DC really seems to lack is late night dining--it seems like no one serves after 11 pm. Any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: My current guidebook has a long list, and my next one will, too. I think Style Live should also be able to send you to late-night dining spots.

Hyattsville, MD: Can you please start reviewing more restaurants in Prince Geoeges county?
Not everybody lives in Bethesda.

Phyllis Richman: I try. But not very successfully. I'd be delighted for any of you to send me suggestions for restaurants in PG County.

Vienna, VA: Phyllis:

If you coud bring back any three defunct restaurants in the D.C. area, which would you choose?

Phyllis Richman: What a wonderful question. There are so many answers. Off the top of my head, I'd bring back Apana, the Big Cheese and Jean-Louis. There was also a restaurant on M St. in Georgetown that was one of the earliest and best New American restaurants, but I can't recall its name at the moment. I'd also be delighted to have back the old Hot Shoppes in Langley Park. Anyone else want to chime it?

Washington, DC: I understand that the view from the rooftop of the Hotel Washington is to die for. But, I don't understand what exactly is on the roof. Is it a bar? or a resteraunt? or do they serve appetizers? I seem to get mixed responses.

(PS. You are my Thursday lunch break. I enjoy reading your column)

Phyllis Richman: I hope you also have something more nutritious on your lunch break.

The Hotel Washington roof--the outdoor part, under an awning--is more or less a cocktail lounge with snack foods (or "light fare") available. There is an indoor restaurant adjacent, but it doesn't have the same ambience, open-air feel or even as good a view.

Rockville, MD: Where can I get a recipe for the cooked garbanzo beans I get from Indian and/or Afghan restaurants?

Phyllis Richman: Restaurants often are willing to share their recipes with anyone who requests them. Many keep them on computers for just such a need. If you can't find a recipe for a classic dish - such as an Indian chickpea curry - look at a few ethnic cookbooks. They're bound to have something similar.

silver spring, md: I saw a few weeks ago the City Lights of China restaurant was closed for a week (or more?) by the health department. At about the same time, a friend told me he had eaten there and been disappointed that the fare had declined so markedly and that he had been rushed from his seat after his meal. Is it true that the restaurant is under new management? Perhaps he was there on a bad night (but City Lights never used to have bad nights).

--L

Phyllis Richman: I, too, saw that it had been closed. It is under new management, and I have had a lot of complaints since the change Bu the food I've tried there was only slightly less good--more oily, for example--than what I'd had before. And while I know the new manager has been rushing people through their meals, I have found the individual waitresses who have been there right along to be as pleasant as ever.
Proceed with caution.

silver spring, md: I saw a few weeks ago the City Lights of China restaurant was closed for a week (or more?) by the health department. At about the same time, a friend told me he had eaten there and been disappointed that the fare had declined so markedly and that he had been rushed from his seat after his meal. Is it true that the restaurant is under new management? Perhaps he was there on a bad night (but City Lights never used to have bad nights).

--L

silver spring, md: I saw a few weeks ago the City Lights of China restaurant was closed for a week (or more?) by the health department. At about the same time, a friend told me he had eaten there and been disappointed that the fare had declined so markedly and that he had been rushed from his seat after his meal. Is it true that the restaurant is under new management? Perhaps he was there on a bad night (but City Lights never used to have bad nights).

--L

Phyllis Richman: I, too, saw that it had been closed. It is under new management, and I have had a lot of complaints since the change Bu the food I've tried there was only slightly less good--more oily, for example--than what I'd had before. And while I know the new manager has been rushing people through their meals, I have found the individual waitresses who have been there right along to be as pleasant as ever.
Proceed with caution.

Manassas, VA: So - boxers or briefs? What kind of toothpaste do you use? Are you an Orioles fan? What do you think of the Starr report? Do you play golf - if so, what's your handicap? Do I ask too many questions?

Phyllis Richman: Yes.

Dupont Circle: What is the big deal being made over Ardeo? I went there the first week it was opened, and found it completely disappointing. It is no 701!

Phyllis Richman: For every opinion there is a dissent, at least in the restaurant world.

Washington DC (Capitol Hill): Any plans to review any of the new or soon-to-open places on Barracks Row / 8th Street SE in the District? Port Cafe (American food) just opened across from Navy Yard, Ellingtons ('garden cafe') just opened in the 400 block, and several new places in the 700 block of 8th St SE are slated to open soon...This area seems to be up and coming....

Phyllis Richman: That is certainly good news. I hadn't heard about these new restaurants. Thanks for passing along the info.

Arlington, VA: Total agreement on The Big Cheese - I thought I was the only person that missed that restaurant!

Phyllis Richman: Oh, no, we are legion.

Washington, DC: If a restaurant is reluctant to share a recipe with you, try asking Gourmet magazine to get it for you, that often works.

Phyllis Richman: Good idea, though you have to be very patient and accept that the magazine gets far too many requests to be able toanswer them all.

Arlington, VA: Ms. Richman,

I've enjoyed your columns over the years.
I have a small appetite and chronicly waste food (much to my husband's dismay.) Is it a faux pas to order 1 or 2 appetizers instead of an entree?

Phyllis Richman: People do that more and more, though I'm sure restaurants don't like it. A few restaurants require you to order an entree, but even those will probably let you get two appetizers instead.

Arlington, VA: I agree that the view from the Hotel Washington is fabulous, but you pay for it through stiff prices, mediocre drinks and poor food. It wouldn't take that much to make it the most exciting place in town, they already make a mint off the hordes of people drinking down $5 Heinekens and eating some of the worst chips'n'salsa in town.

Phyllis Richman: I've been hearing this complaint for 25 years, and the place is still packed.

Reston, Virginia: I loved your piece about the Antiques Roadshow - very well written. Did you find any good resteraunts in Richmond while you were there?

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. It was fun to do.

I can't remember whether I wrote this after I got back, but I really loved a carryout called Sally Bell's Kitchen. Box lunches of deviled eggs, a sandwich on Sally Lunn bread, potato salad, a cheese pecan wafer and your choice of cupcake or tart. All homemade, even the bread, and all very good.

Arlington, VA: I remember when the bIG Cheese got a rave review in the Post and I went the next week and the prices seems so far above those quoted in the review. Do you often see reviewed restaurants hike their prices after a good review?

Phyllis Richman: It happens sometimes, unfortunately. Usually such restaurants will wait a few weeks before hiking their prices. And when people let me know that they've found the prices increased, I write about to warn future diners.

Washington, DC: I was breathless with anticipation a few weeks ago with the promise of a few good Caesar salads. To my dismay, the discussion never came back with suggestions of restaurants which offer "real" Caesars....just a few names would be greatly appreciated and spare me the agony of having to try tasteless, anchovy-less versions on my own.
Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Here's your assignment for next week: Let us know if you come across any really good caesar salads. Too many are without eggs, without anchovies (and to head off the complaints about raw eggs being dangerous, all one needs to do is to combine the eggs with the lemon or even with the entire dressing, for about 5 minutes before dressing the salad. The acid kills salmonella.). Anyway, I'm sure there are some fine caesars out there. Let's gather a list.

Arlington VA: Ms. Richman,

You did a piece on the Antiques Roadshow? I love that show! What was the contents of the article and where can I find it?

Phyllis Richman: The Post's Style section earlier this week.

Arlington, VA: If you like eating light and just ordering appetizers - try one of the local Tapas restaurants.

Phyllis Richman: Sorry for the delay, but my system just crashed (Help!).

Anyway, it's time to sign off. I'll try to get my computer in order for next week. See you then.

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