By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington, DC: Who takes the great pictures of the food in your reviews? And when are they taken (just before the review is published or during your meal)? PS Thanks for your great reviews. If you need a helper, just ask me.

Phyllis Richman: Can you believe it's September already? Ah, well, at least there will be more days that are perfect for dining outdoors.

Now to the first question.

The Post magazine has a stable of photographers it uses to shoot the restaurants I review. AFter I turn the review in, the photographer goes out to shoot the restaurant, but tells the restaurateur nothing about the review except the date it will appear.

As for needing help, what I really need are more lunchtimes and dinnertimes in the day. But thanks for your offer.

Alexandria, VA: While my partner and I have been big fans of fine restaurants for most of our nine years together, I'm very curious about your perceptions of some of the area's neighbourhood standards and even its "classic dives." A cozy celebration at a Twenty One Federal, a Gas Light, a Restaurant Nora, or an Auberge Chez Francois is memorable; however, the earthiness of a Whitey's, Bob and Edith's, Vienna Grill, Geno's, or Fox & Hound really helps to ground us in our local roots or to give visitors a taste of an "average Joe's" Washington.

Phyllis Richman: I agree. A diet of fancy restaurants day after day is in its own way tiresome. I think we all need some Bob & Ediths sorts of places in our routine.

Washington, D.C.: Dear Phyllis:

A few weeks ago you stated that if the Washington,D.C. area had an indigenous cuisine it involved crabs (in various forms). Now that it appears that the local supply of blue crabs is drying up, is there something to replace it as a local cuisine?

Phyllis Richman: Remember. September has an 'r' in it, so it's oyster season again. Oysters aren't as distinctively local as crabs, but they'll have to do until the supply is built up again.

Washington, DC: In the last few years DC has lost some of its great French restaurants (Le Lion D'Or, Jean-Louis). Do you think fine French dining will make a comeback?

Chris Church

Phyllis Richman: I think French dining has come back - or, it's never really left. Some of the high-end restaurants have closed (not because their food was unpopular), but many old ones have stayed around for years. Consider La Colline, La Fourchette, Lavandou, Le Rivage, etc. etc. There is even a very French restaurant now in Laurel: Cafe de Paris.

Washington, D.C.: I am consistently disappointed with the Chinese restaurants in D.C.'s Chinatown (or what is left of it). Am I just going to the wrong places for lunch?

Phyllis Richman: You couild be, though it's true that there are fewer really good restaurants in Chinatown nowadays. Probably the msot consistently good is Eat First. But there are some good dishes and some good times of day at Hunan Chinatown, Mr. Yung's, Full Kee, Golden Palace, Tony Cheng's. Inconsistent, but still pretty good.

Arlington, Va.: I so look forward to this chat every week. Thanks.

I'd like to ask if there's a limit to how far from Washington you can go to review a restaurant. I recently went to the Trellis in Williamsburg - it's one of my favorites.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks to you.

I generally limit my reviews to the metropolitan area, but I do sometimes wander farther afield, and have been to the Trellis. Its owner is a wonderful guy who has done a great deal to promote New American cooking over the years; indeed, he was one of the early experimentors. HIs name is Marcel Desaulniers, and he has written some enormously popular cookbooks.

All of which reminds me to report on my trip to Richmond. Mamma Zu's was closed for vacation, and Millie's Diner doesn't take reservations, so I went to the Frog and the Redneck. There were some excellent dishes - particulary the tuna with parmesan butter. And there were some dishes that were pretty good, not worth the price. The service, though, was indifferent, slow and left a lot of diners irritated. I'd choose it on a less busy night than Fri.

What I really loved was a box lunch from Sally Bell's Kitchen (deviled egg, great potato salad, chicekn salad on homemade Sally Lunn bread, a pecan cheese wafer and lemon chess pie--every bit of it homemade).

Arlington,VA: I recently read that the Evening Star Cafe in ALexandria acquired a new chef. Do you know where the former chef went to?

Phyllis Richman: The former chef of Evening Star Cafe went to another Va. restaurant, but I don't know the name. The new chef came from Tahoga, and I've very much admired his food there. When I tried EVening Star, he hadn't yet settled in (I hope that was the reason the food was so disappointing).

Washington, DC: I planning on taking my wife for dinner this weekend at Mr. K's downtown. I've noticed that you have no review of this resturant. Have you been there recently? How about a quick, on-line review?

Phyllis Richman: I've reviewed Mr. K's in the past, and stopped because I felt it cost way too much, particularly because it pushes expensive things on customers without warning them how much they'll cost. And it insists on poritoning ouit appetizers, then charges for two portions rather than one, so that if two people are sharing two appetizers they're likely to pay for four portions. The last time I went there, a couple years ago, a small lunch for two with no drinks cost $100.

Washington, DC: Someone had asked a few weeks back about restaurants in Richmond. My boyfriend lives there and we don't go out all that much, but we had a good meal at the Hard Shell in Shockoe Bottom, and a not-so-imppressive meal at the much-ballyhoed Frog and the Redneck (perhaps because it was so overhyped). Millie's on Main Street is also good, and I have heard good things about Mamma 'Zus in Oregon Hill, (I think this is the right location-maybe Fulton Hill)--it doesn't look like much from the outside, but is authentically Italian trattoria-type(expect waits). I also had good meal at the Grotto in Shockoe Slip--good antipasti.

Phyllis Richman: Add this to the Richmond comments.

Washington D.C.: While I love going to small, ethnic restaurants, I am becoming increasingly concerned with health standards. Is there any compilation of all the health code violation reports on area restaurants? Do you think that would be a good way to rule out some visits? Is there anything you do to assess whether you are taking too great a chance?

Phyllis Richman: I think our inspections dept. does a good job of alerting us to problems and assuring that restaurants adhere to standards. The few that are closed down are listed in the Sunday Post, and they can't reopen until they have corrected their problems. There is not reason to assume that small ethnic restaurants are less safe than any others.

Washington: Phyllis, if you ever get back to Richmond, make sure you go to Helen's.
lovely bar, wonderful desserts, a lot of care into the food.

Phyllis Richman: I'll keep this one on my list. Thanks.

Arlington, VA: Assuming that you read the Health Code Violations column in Sunday's paper, I pose to you the following question. Does seeing a restaurant that you frequent being closed for severe or frequent violations make you less inclined to go back? And if so, for how long? Other thoughts?

Phyllis Richman: Yes, I am wary of restaurants with health code violations, but my concern depends on why the restaurant was closed. Sometimes it's for a fire or a water main break or some such event. Then I'd have not concern about returning. Very few are cited more than once for more serioius or ongoing offenses, and I would avoid them.

Waldorf, md: Have you ever reviewed the resturant at the Kennedy Center? I was very disappointed with it last weekend.

Phyllis Richman: I've reviewed it with each change of chef, at least until now. I did go to it recently and found it indeed disappointing.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,

For last week's assignment, I tried the Caesar salad at Kinkead's and found it to be excellent. The choice leaves of Romaine came with a nice, mustardy dressing - balanced with plain croutons, and attractively garnished with chopped egg white, yolk, parsley and a few anchovy fillets. Classic!

Phyllis Richman: Ah, you remembered. Thanks. It's no surprise to me that Kinkead's make an outstanding Caesar salad--it's a terrific restaurant.

Takoma Park: I'm sure you've been asked this before but .... I sorely miss the chocolate chip cookies that used to be sold by old YWCA on K St. Did anyone pick up their recipe and sell them? I remember them as huge and just the right consistency? Please tell me where I can get one.

Phyllis Richman: The only place you can get the YWCA chocolate chip cookies--as far as I know--is from your own kitchen. The Post published the recipe many years ago, and it might be available on-line, or the Post's Food section might be prevailed upon to research it and publish it again.

Springfield, VA: Hi Phyllis. Do you make every effort to keep your identity hidden or do you find that most chefs, etc. now know who you are and, therefore, it isn't worth your time to try to disguise yourself? I think that a restaurant's performance must be colored by their recognition of you.

Phyllis Richman: I still try to keep my identity hidden, though that is difficult after all these years. On the other hand, after all these years I know pretty much what can and can't be changed and how to deal with being recognized. The service is what changes most (often it gets worse, since the kitchen slows down and the dining room staff hover). The food can't be changed much, particiularly things that are made ahead. I also get to visit a restaurant several times before I review it, which gives me more of a perspective.

Some restaurants think they have identified me, but occasionally I hear from ne who wants to know when I'm writing the review I promised, and apparently somebody was posing as me.

Washington, D.C.: Phyllis, I am an avid fan! My favorite thing to eat this time of year is soft-shell crabs, and I would like to know who has the best ones in town. Incidentally, are there any good soft-shell crab places in Baltimore or Annapolis? My boyfriend and I spend a lot of time in those areas and I never find restaurants like the ones in DC!

Phyllis Richman: Of course there are good soft-shells in Baltimore and Annapolis. It is probably hard to find bad soft-shells in Baltimore.

One of my favorite places for soft-shells is the Anglers Inn on Kent Island. A homey little place with pool tables and a busy bar. The owner won the lottery a few years ago, but I think she still runs the place.

As for DC, any place that in general has good seafood will also have good soft-shells. Many Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants serve them But make sure they are fresh, not frozen. And don't bother to order them out of season.

F'burg VA: My concurrence on the Frog and the Redneck, way overblown in reputation and price.
My question is whatever happened with Jean Louis Palladin (the "Frog" or Frog and Redneck the tale has it) and his move to Las Vegas? Miss his old place in DC.

Phyllis Richman: One more weighing in from Richmond.

Jean-Louis Palladin is still in Las VEgas, running the restaurant called Jean-Louis at Napa, which is in the Rio Suites Hotel. He is still, as ever, negotiating to open a restaurant in NY.

Arlington, VA: I love your column and the "turning tables" section. Could you suggest a nice place to take my in-laws before a performance at the Kennedy Center? Unfortunately, they don't particularly care for ethnic foods. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Phyllis Richman: Is a steak seasoned with soy sauce to ethnic? A grilled salmon? I think the best place near the Kennedy Center is Zuki Moon, which is more-or-less Japanese, but you can probably find something for non-adventurous palates.

Vienna, VA: Can you tell us about the new places on 14th St. across from the Studio Theatre. There is the one in the former Dante's and the cavernous one and another one. And other suggestions for us as we attend Woolly Mammoth or Studio.
Thanks
Tom

Phyllis Richman: The place I know is Eleventh Hour, which has a pretty good kitchen (more-or-less FRench food) and seems to waver between being a club and a restaurant. Worth a try.

Washington, DC: What do you recommend as the best way to break into the restaurant critic field? Should I just start writing free-lance reviews and see if someone will publish them? I have no credentials other than an obsession with good food (and details), and I feel and have been told that I can write. Should I take cooking classes? Go to a professional cooking school?

Phyllis Richman: There are several paths, and I'd suggest taking them all at once. First, hone your writing skills, particularly your food writing skills, and try to build credentials by freelancing. You probably wouldn't be commissioned to do freelance reviews, since those are generally done in-house, but try any kind of food writing. Second, learn as much as you can through cooking classes and cooking on your own, as well as reading.

The problem is, there are very few actual restaurant reviewing jobs. One per newspaper or magazine. So look into other kinds of food writing, at least as a start.

Falls Church,VA: Do you hob-nob with other Washington food critics, like the ones from the Washingtonian?

Phyllis Richman: At the very least we run into each other at restaurants. I do have close friends among restaurant critics, in other cities as well as this one. It's always great to be able to exchange war stories with someone who's been there.

Chicago IL: When a place is both club and restautant, how much of the business needs to be restaurant before you review it? In that vein, have you tried the food at Republic Gardens on U Street? The jerk chicken is great!

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear it.

It's not the balance between club and restaurant I consider when picking a place to review, but where the management has any serious interest in serving good food vs. just serving mass-produced dishes.

Doug in Alexandria, VA: Phyllis,
I haven't seen anything in your reviews about restaurants in the Mt Vernon area. I'm sure you've been to Mike's Italian (which we think is great), but there are other wonderful restaurants that I think you should check out - The Village Wharf, Kyoto Japanese, and the Cedar Knoll. Perhaps you have reviewed them and I simply missed your column (which is unusual). Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: I confess, I don't get to any one suburb nearly enough. The area has grown to large to hope to cover it. Fortunately, this website and the Post's food section get to cover more of the suburbs. I'll keep these in mind, and hope to try some of them eventually.

Washington DC: Phyllis,
Last week a reader suggested the Drift Inn on the Patuxent in Mechanicsville Md. for crabs. I can report that the crabs we had there last weekend were the best we've ever had (and we've had a lot), cooked and served perfectly in a perfect downhome Southern Maryland waterfront setting. Pope's Creek had nothing on the Drift Inn. It just doesn't get any better than this. They're open through September, Friday through Sunday. Crab Heaven!

Phyllis Richman: How late are they open for lunch, and how long does it take to get there?

Chevy Chase, MD: I have reservations at both the Auberge Chez Francois and the Old Angler's Inn for a wedding anniversary dinner this weekend. Which one should I cancel?

Phyllis Richman: Mainly, what I'd ask is that you be sure to cancel one of them, asap. It is so frustrating to restaurants to have empty tables while other people have been calling for reservations.

If you promise to cancel immediately, I'll suggest you go to Chez Francois (and sit outdoors it it's nice). The food is good to very good, as it is at Old Anglers, but I prefer Old Anglers on weekdays when it is less crowded (although, and now I'm hedging, it is never too crowded to eat on the terrace).

Alexandria,VA: Another "new chef" question for a restaurant in Alexandria, in the same neighborhood as the Evening Star Cafe: Monroe's American Trattoria also has a sign announcing a new chef. Have you been to Monroe's since this occurred, and any thoughts on whether it's an improvement or not?

Phyllis Richman: I hadn't heard that. It bears watching.

Hyattsville MD: Phyllis,I wonder if you'd consider putting out a list of restaurants that have badly declined? In the Post's on-line discussion area you recently confirmed that Les Halles has gone way downhill. But the Post's on-line Style section review of Les Halles is the same one that(in your book)lured my party to try it in the first place. I hope it's not ungrateful to hope that you could do something systematic to help us avoid unpleasant surprises when we (rarely) decide to splurge. Of course these chats are great and I haven't missed any since I discovered them!

Phyllis Richman: I wish I could find a better way to deal with this. I did signal my displeasure with Les Halles by leaving it out of last year's dining guide, and I will be noting its decline in my new book, which will come out in December. But there's an inevitable lag while I check out a place enough to write a new review (as opposed to just mouthing off on this chat) and I write the review and the website excerpts the review (not that not all my reviews have yet appeared on Style LIve, but they're being added day by day). And this season there are SO MANY restaurants that have changed chefs, it will take me months to catch up.

All of which leads to: I'm sorry.

Herndon, VA: I'm an avid fan of pho, (Vietnamese rice noodle soup), and was wondering if you intend on doing some kind of all-encompassing review of that sub-section of Vietnamese cuisine?

Phyllis Richman: That sounds like a year-long project. Eden Center alone would take a season.

Washington DC : I had sent a question last week about a relatively new restaurant in Bethesda - Persimons. I recently had dinner there and loved it! Do you have any plans to review it or dine there? I would love to hear your comments regarding your experience.

Phyllis Richman: I've reviewed Persimmon, but can't remember at the moment whether it has appeared or is about to appear. Anyway, keep watching.

Pendleton, Oregon: How can I get my 7 year old to try new foods?

Phyllis Richman: It's been a while since I struggled with this problem, but I found that offering a new food without pushing it (and without offering substitutes right away) has allowed kids to make up their own mind to try things. In other words, give the child incentive to ask for a taste rather than push it on him or her. That's a start.

Reston, VA re Persimmon: the review appeared in the Sunday Magazine two or three weeks ago

Phyllis Richman: Ah, thank you. As I'm working on the dining guide (due out in Oct) and the dining book (coming by DEc.) plus weekly reviews, I've lost track of what's where and when.

Alexandria, VA: I have been to Monroe's since the new chef has arrived. My husband and I go there quite frequently. However my first experience since the change was dissapointing. My pasta and clam dish was very tasteless. I hope it was just that particular night.

Phyllis Richman: Sometimes a new chef needs time to get used to the kitchen and staff and get up to speed. I try to leave a new chef alone for the first couple of months.

Silver spring, MD: Hi Phyllis-

I am a huge fan of Vietnamese food. Have you tried a place in SS called Mai Le family restaurant (it used to be known as Kim Thanh) I have never had such a diverse, excellent menu of Vietnamese, and the place is really out of the way, near the Metro tracks. I just thought I'd ask about my out of the way discovery. thanks

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there, but I;m always interested in little-known restaurants that are out of the way and near Metro. Thanks.

Hyattsville MD: Re: Les Halles. No blame intended. The restaurant scene here is just so changeable and baffling! We need all the help we can get. You do more already than any other reviewer I know of. Keep up the good work.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I hope this forum can help keep the information flow up-to-date. Anyway, I'll keep trying and I hope you will all be here next week to see who's left which kitchen and where the chefs have gone this week.

So long.

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