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    Phyllis Richman – Live!
    Hosted by Phyllis Richman
    Washington Post Staff Writer

    Thursday, August 27, 1998

    menu
    By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
    Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

    In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

    Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

    Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

    Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

    dingbat






    New York, NY: Phyllis - I ready yor column every week and love the online chat. I am a native Washingtonian relocated to NY and I was wondering if you could mention your favorite "Big City" chefs, i.e. NYC, DC, Chicago. P.S. I think that Clydes makes a really good crabcake!!!

    Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone. One more sunny Thursday lunchtime to spend talking about dining before we head for the nearest outdoor cafe or carryout near a park bench.

    Since everyone else is on vacation, I thought I'd start by talking about travel--i.e., a few of my favorite chefs elsewhere.

    At opposite ends of the country, Jean-Georges and Daniel (whose restaurants are named after them) in NY, and Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Napa Valley. Farther south, Wolfgang Puck juggles an amazing range of restaurants uncommonly well. In Chicago, the Everest and Topolobampo are tops in my book. How's that for a start? I could continue this whole hour and still not do more than scratch the surface of the best. This country, after all, has many of the best restaurants in the world. So there.


    Washington, DC: What's your favorite dessert?

    Phyllis Richman: Another question that I could spend the entire hour answering. I'll skip the predictable and mention a couple of offbeat favorites: Thai coconut rice with mango, Chinese custard tarts, Turkish rice pudding, English summer pudding. All puddings and custards? No, I love spritz cookies and chocolate chip cookies and a German cake called bienenstick. Shaker lemon pie is irresistible to me--at least when it's well made.

    Okay, my time limit is going to be up if I don't stop. One last one: my family's old favorite, Coconut Cake Brulee.


    Arlington, VA: I have guests from Sweden coming Labor Day weekend, it's their fist time in the US. Where can I take them for American cuisine, I realize this is very general, and Sunday Brunch?

    Phyllis Richman: I recently took some Australians to Morrison-Clark, and they thought it was the best meal they'd had in America. I'd also suggest 17889, Kinkead's, Vidalia, New Heights. That's for New American cuisine. I'm going to get to steakhouses in a minute.


    Herndon, Virginia: The Caravan Grill
    1825 18th Street NW, near Dupont.
    It has tasty wholesome Persian cuisine, at bargain prices. There is plenty there for vegetarians. The owner is a kindly old gentleman. There is a courtyard in the back. It's not glamorous, but not bad either. Fair-to-middlin'. The food is not spicy, but hot red chili sambar is provided for those who like it. It is my favorite place. One of the best values for the price you will find anywhere.

    Phyllis Richman: I agree, it's an astonishing bargain and a very friendly and accommodating little restaurant, behind a staircase and down a few steps from the street.


    Washington, DC: Know anywhere that serves bangers & mash or other English food?

    Phyllis Richman: I wish. There is or was a Scottish restaurant in Alexandria, but I wouldn't particularly recommend it.


    London, England: I will be in Washington soon and would like to know the best restaurants in D.C. for seafood and steak. And is there such a thing as a "hip and happening" restaurant in D.C.? If so, what are they?
    Thank you.

    Phyllis Richman: Let's start with steak. Morton's is where I find the most consistently excellent steaks, particularly the porterhouse. The porterhouse at the Capitol Grille is excellent but I haven't found any other food there that I like--not even the other steaks. I've heard good reports about the steaks at Max's, which took over the space from Maison Blanche across from the Executive Office Building.

    As for seafood, I've already mentioned Kinkead's. And there's the utterly "hip and happening" new DC Coast at 14th and K NW.


    Arlington, VA: Phyllis, people are always asking if you like this kind of food or that country's cuisine. Is there any particular food or cuisine you *don't* like?

    Phyllis Richman: I'm sure there is, but I haven't found it yet. Anyplace I've travelled I've found at least one delicious specialty, often from markets and street stands if not in proper restaurants.


    Rosslyn, VA: Hi Phyllis - Have any suggestions for a good place for afternoon tea?

    Phyllis Richman: Practically the only places that serve afternoon tea are hotels. But there are two absolutely delightful tea houses you might try. Teaism, on R St. just west of Connecticut, is a modern sort-of-Japanese-style place with some lovely small dishes and homey American desserts plus an enormous selection of teas. Ching Ching Cha, on Wisconsin Ave. below M St. in Georgetown, is a more traditional Japanese tea house, quite elegant, with a smaller choice of dishes and a large selections of teas, plus a lesson in proper brewing that may change your approach to tea forever.


    wash, dc: surprised to hear you recommend Mortons and not mention our wonderful home-grown Sam and Harry's Steak House. I, and may others I know, are a little disappetized by Morton's schtick of displaying slabs of meat with live lobsters crawling all over them. The steaks seem always perfect at Sam and Harrys. So why not on your rec list?

    Phyllis Richman: I used to think Sam & Harry's was the equal of Morton's, but in the past year or so I've been disappointed with the steaks and the food in general.


    Washington, DC: Can you tell us more about DC Coast?

    Phyllis Richman: I will in a couple of weeks in the pages of the Post magazine and on this website.


    Great Falls, VA: For some great pub fare and live music, check out The Old Brogue Irish pub. Bangers and Mash galore! As well as authetic Irish atmosphere!

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks. It sounds like fun. But where is it?

    There are, of course, several Irish restaurants on Capitol Hill, and come to think of it, they might have bangers and mash. Try the Irish Times, the Dubliner and the restaurant in the Phoenix Park Hotel There is also an Irish restaurant, Fado, on 7th St. The place is reallly a trip, a kind of Disneyland version of an Irish pub.


    New York, NY: What's the single worst thing -- in terms of food -- you've ever had in your mouth?

    Phyllis Richman: Is that a Washington joke?


    Bethesda, MD: 1. I will be in Paris, France in November. Is there any retaurant critic you trust that would cover Paris and Fountainbleu? I have the Michelin guide.

    2. If I want to impress foreign friends with the "best" steak available in D.C. (as opposed to the fanciest steak restaurant), where should I go? Mortons, Palm, Prime Rib, other? Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: You've already got my answer on steaks, though I will add that the roast beef at Morton's and the Prime Rib are the best around.

    As for Paris, look for the reviews (in the Herald Tribune and several books) by Patricia Wells--who used to be a Washingtonian.


    NW DC: I'm from California where many restaurants have fine and detailed microbrew lists to go along with their wine lists. Here in DC, you're lucky to be able to get an Anchor Steam at even the best restaurants. Why don't more DC restaurants have microbrew lists and how can those of us who love eating out get restaurants to offer beer lists?

    Phyllis Richman: Aw, c'mon. I've been to a couple of restaurants lately--just ordinary restaurants--that had more than two dozen beers on their list (watch for my review of one in the next week or two). And I challenge you to find a large beer list in the world than at the Brickskeller.


    Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis! I am looking for some advice on a restaurant dilemma. I am a woman, in my late twenties, professional, polite, punctual, all of which I mention because I frequently seem to get stuck at the worst tables in the restaurant. I have noticed that this only really happens when I am with a group that is all women. I am not talking about getting the last table at a busy restaurant - I mean being stuck next to the kitchen in the back when there are better tables available. Although I occasionally ask to be reseated, I wonder if you have any advice/comment on how I can avoid this in future. (Does this happen to you?!)
    Thanks for all of the great reviews!

    Phyllis Richman: I think women used to have this problem far more frequently than they do now. Instead, I think you might be encountering a problem that men and women are finding in popular restaurants: When the place is expected to be full, the staff will often seat unknown diners at the worst tables so they can leave the better ones available for later diners. I suppose they figure that if you accept a bad table, they're got that one out of the way; and if you ask for a better table, they can give you one and be none the worse for trying.


    Los Alamos, NM: What happened to the Dar es Salaam Restaurant on M st in Georgetown? Is there another Morrocan Restaurant that is as good?

    Phyllis Richman: The owner of Dar es Salaam had a bad accident and,while he did recover, he apparently had neither the stamina nor the heart to continue in the business. It's too bad, since it was the best Moroccan restaurant we've had. You can find some good--if not great--Moroccan food at Marrakesh on NY Ave. and Casablanca in Arlington.


    Tarpon Springs, Fl: Is there an outstanding Greek eatery in Washington, DC?

    Phyllis Richman: Well, I know there is in Tarpon Springs. I have had a particularly wonderful squid with tomatoes and olives, as I recall, in Tarpon Springs.

    In Washington, I don't know of an outstanding Greek restaurant, but you can find a very pleasant meal at Mykonos. There are others, but I don't have any current experience with them. Any suggestions from all of you?


    Great Falls, VA: The Old Brogue is in Great Falls, right in the Village Centre. But don't be dismayed by the drive, I swear to you it is well worth the 25-30 minute haul. The live music will make you sing all the way back home!

    Phyllis Richman: I'll put it on my list, particularly for when L'Auberge Chez Francois' terrace tables are full.


    washington, dc: Phyllis, Always have enjoyed your work. What do you think of the "by weight" buffet places downtown. One place, Sizzling Express, does a terrific job on alot of hot and cold food. Have you heard of them? They are located at 14th and K and 14th and I.

    Phyllis Richman: New York has long been lucky enough to have such "salad bars" on every corner. They've been slower to catch on here, and I think they are wonderful. It amazes me all the fresh, from-scratch dishes they produce, and I like the idea of choosing your own portion size. I'm talking about more than the Sizzling Express, though that is a perfectly good example. I'm told of a new one on 15th St. between K and L which I'm hoping to check out soon.


    silver spring, md: a friend of mine works at persimmon and said that people were lined up outside last friday night with print outs of your favorable review from washingtonpost.com. how do you feel about your reviews coming out 2 days earlier than the magazine?

    Phyllis Richman: I can't say that I have any particular reaction to it, since I write the reviews about 3 1/2 weeks before they are printed. As long as they are widely accessible, I don't care when that accessibility occurs.

    Printouts, eh? I'll have to think about my reaction to all this.


    F'burg, VA: I am a fan of the Oval Room, but the last time I was there, it seemed they had changed their Chef--not necessarily for the better. Do you know any background on this change and new personnel?

    Phyllis Richman: The chef is still the same, but there is a new executive chef overseeing all the restaurants in this group (701, Ardeo, Bombay Club and Oval Room). Maybe that makes a difference, of maybe the chef maturing and growing better. We all hope that happens to us in our jobs, right?


    bethesda,MD: I would like your opinion about these Mongolian Grill places, where you serve yourself. My feeling is that when I select the stuff, especially the flavorings, it all tastes the same. I want somebody who knows what they are doing to cook.

    Phyllis Richman: You've got a point. I think Mongolian grills are fun, and they are particularly useful for people with strong likes or dislikes among ingredients. But we diners don't necessarily know the effect of various condiments and sauces, and there is much to be said for an "expert" to juggle them for us.


    Orange Park, FL: Do either Gusti's or Hogates
    still survive in DC?

    Phyllis Richman: Hogate's is still around, though now owned by a large corporation. Gusti's recently threw in the towel after gradually shrinking its space.


    D.C: Have you been to GreenField in Rockville? and, in general, what do you think of the Brazilian "churrascaria rodizios"?

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't been to GreenFields, but I think that most churrascarias or riodizios offer quantity rather than qualityi. The meat is usually inferior quality, dry and tasting of little other than salt. I've tried them here and in NY, and have found maybe one or two meats at the best ones that I'd want to eat more than one bite.


    Washington, DC: For good Greek take-out, there's Elite on 17th between Q and P NW. They have fantastic homemade pita.

    Phyllis Richman: Sounds good to me. Let's see, this is over in 15 minutes....


    Arlington, VA: I have been to many of the areas sushi restaurants, including sushi-ko and tako grill. Can you reccomend any places in the d.c. area that are better?

    Phyllis Richman: Try Makoto on MacArthur Blvd. in DC, or Asian Flavor in McLean or Vienna.


    Vienna, VA: Although I've never been there, I've heard so much about the great steaks at Ruth's Cris Steak House yet that wasn't mentioned in your list earlier this hour.

    What do you think of it?

    Phyllis Richman: I think Ruth's Chris can't hold a candle to the others, and its practice of dousing the steaks in butter makes greasy meat even greasier.


    Arlington, VA: How did you become a restaurant critic?

    Phyllis Richman: There are many answers to this question. I cooked from the time I was about three, I think, and constantly read about food and recipes. I was always obsessed with food (though actually a skinny kid) and as an adult took some courses, gave some courses, catered a bit. I also always loved to write. The two came together when I tried out for a freelance restaurant column. I did that for a few years and freelanced writing about food for many other newspapers and magazines until I was offered the job at the Post.


    Washington, D.C.: If you needed to buy a gift for a chef. As a small gesture of thanks, what would it be? I usually give friends a dinner invitaiton, or a bottle of wine or a basket of delicacies, but to a chef these are not exactly things they don't get everyday.

    Phyllis Richman: I think that someone who loves wine is always glad to get another interesting bottle of wine.


    Alexandria, VA: Hi there. How do you feel about tipping the waitstaff - I got thru college by waitressing, and know what it's like - as a result, I tend to overtip, and often people I dine with get upset with me. My feeling is how is leaving a few more dollars going to hurt you, and think how happy the waitperson will be. (If the service is just okay, I'll leave 15%).

    Phyllis Richman: I agree with you absolutely. A good waiter is worth whatever a generous diner wishes to dole out. These days that tends to be more towards 20 percent than 15 percent. In any case, I don't think there is such a thing as overtipping when a waiter has served you excellentlly.


    San Francisco, CA: You didn't get around to this one a couple of weeks ago, so I'll try again! Can you recommend any places that deliver lunch and/or dinner (we'll be near the Federal courthouse)? We're poor federal prosecutors who'll be in town for over a month. We don't want pizza or chinese every night (and living in SF has spoiled us). Please answer!!

    Phyllis Richman: There are a couple of restaurant delivery services. Takeout Taxi is one, though I can't recall whether it operates in the District. But if you call a restaurant in the area, it might be able to steer you to one that serves that area. Their lists of restaurants are long, far to long for you to get bored.


    Bethesda, MD: Hi Phyllis: Any suggestions on where to get a good Caesar salad? I find I'm frequently disappointed by generic dressing, stale croutons, and tasteless Parmesan. Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: Ii almost never find a really good caesar salad anymore for two reasons: restaurants are afraid to use raw eggs because of salmonella (though steeping the eggs and lemon juice together for a few minutes kills any salmonella) and many diners today are outraged by anchovies. Those are two vital components to a caesar, so when they are neglected or underused, you have nothing but lemony, cheesey romaine leaves. As for the croutons....I'm out of time, and I could rant about those for another half hour.

    My assignment for the week: Tell me next week about your favorite caesar salads.

    Now, let me look up the address of that Greek carryout.


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