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Phyllis Richman – Live! Hosted by Phyllis Richman Washington Post Staff Writer Thursday, August 20, 1998
In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat. Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web! Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now." If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically. Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.
washington, dc: Last week, you talked about how you enjoy cooking. Well, one of my favorite gourmet shops in Dupont Circle, Market Day, just up and closed earlier this year, without any notice. Do you know why? The curiosity has been gnawing at me all this time. Phyllis Richman: Hello, everyone. Have you noticed that every Thursday at noon, the weather is gorgeous, just right for lunch at an outdoor cafe? Maybe we should move this venue.
Germantown, MD: Have you ever been to the Old South Mountain Inn in Boonsboro, MD, and if so, what did you think? Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there in years. It never had food that interested me, but I've always loved the site and the rustic charm.
Gaithersburg, MD:
I've heard that "dim sum" is supposed to be pretty appetizing. But I am unfamiliar with that type of cuisine. Could you elaborate as to what types of food are involved in dim-sum?
Phyllis Richman: In general, dim sum are small platefuls of food--much like mezze or tapas--and they often involve noodles, fried pastry, steamed steamed or baked dough filled with meat, seafood or vegetables. Some dim sum are just plain meat: steamed spareribs with black beans, stewed chicken feet and such. And there are dessert dishes such as custard tarts, sweet bean-filled buns and more.
Somewhere, USA:
Can you find out the recipe for the white pizza at the Pines of Rome and share it.
Phyllis Richman: Often the restaurant itself will send you the recipe if you request it directly.
Dupont Circle: Phyllis, as we make our way into fall, what fruits and vegetables should we take advantage of before they are old news? Phyllis Richman: What fun to think about this! I'm eating as many tomatoes and peaches as I can. And corn on the cob, of course.
Capitol Hill, DC: Do you know of any new restaurant news for the Capitol Hill area? Phyllis Richman: I wish I did. Anybody out there have any Capitol Hill food news for us?
Arlington:
Hi, Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: Yes. Be sure to have your dessert in the garden.
Washington, DC: Why do you think Sutton-on-the run closed? I like xando but sutton offered so much more. Does spell the death-knell of high-end delis in Washington for more coffee bars? Phyllis Richman: Sutton on the Run closed before its neighbor, the Daily Market, and for good reason. Its prices were higher than its competition's, and the quality was inconsistent. No, I don't think delis are on their way out. Lawson's, down the street, seems to be thriving.
wheaton, md:
Hi Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: Sorry for the delay. This answer disappeared and I had to start again. Anyway:
Arlington: A short time ago you mentioned a barbecue joint in Ayden, NC. Where's Ayden, and what's the name of the restaurant? Was it really better than Lexington Barbecue #1?! Phyllis Richman: The restaurant is Skyline (or Skylight???), and Ayden is to the east of the main north-south Interstate (81?), north of the Outer Banks, I think. I think it actually MIGHT be better than Lexington #1, but I haven't tried them side by side.
sacramento ca: Hi Phyllis, You probobly don't remember me, but I use to be the chef at prime plus 10 years ago (David Arbuckle) I dearly miss washington and wonder what ever happened to Perry's, that famous sushi and godzilla place with the punk rock music? Phyllis Richman: I fondly remember Prime Plus, and I hope you're cooking up a storm in Sacramento. Perry's is still here, though I haven't been so enamoured of it lately, except as a place to enjoy rooftop eating.
Hampton VA: Hi Phyllis, We are moving into the District next month. What do you recommend to eat with a five year old? Phyllis Richman: How patient is you five-year-old? Last night I took a six-year-old who loves to dress up to Morrison-Clark for a grand dinner with her parents. It's definitely a special-occasion restaurant, but the Australian couple I took there said it was the best meal they'd had in ten months in the U.S. And the child was very happy with the plain grilled chicken and timbale of rice the chef cooked to her order. She also was enchanted by the big mirrors and windows, the flowered upholstery, and a visit to the back garden.
Silver Spring, MD: I've read through some of your reviews and I haven't seemed to be able to find any on Korean restaurants. Is it that you don't enjoy Korean food? or is their nothing in the washington area to write about? Phyllis Richman: I adore Korean food. I've several times written about Hee Been, but most of the other Korean restaurants, at least around Annandale, were written up in the Food Section of the Post, so there wasn't much use for me to review them. If you know of some that haven't been covered, please let me know.
Washington, DC: What resturant would you recommend for the best tortilla soup? Phyllis Richman: Red Sage and Rio Grande Cafe both have excellent tortilla soup. Cottonwood Cafe might, too.
Bethesda, MD: Is it us, or do all the restaurants in Bethesda seem rather bland and formulaic when compared to those in DC? When we moved here from the District, we hoped the 100's of restaurants in the area meant something more interesting than burgers and beer. Can you help us? Phyllis Richman: I agree. Bethesda is chock full of make-a-buck-fast restaurants, so you have to cull the good ones from the masses. I think downtown is still a better bet.
Gaithersburg, MD: Thanks for the Dim Sum clarification. For a follow up question, where have you been that you would recommend to try this type of food? Phyllis Richman: I don't know of any one outstanding dim sum restaurant, but there are a lot of pretty good ones: Fortune in Va., Golden Palace and Mr. Yung's in Chinatown, A & J in Rockville, for a start.
Arlington, VA: I think your restaurant guidebook is great. I was wondering if and when you're planning to put out an updated version. Phyllis Richman: How handy that you asked. I'm working on an update of the dining book now, and it will be out by December. It will have many new restaurants and overall more restaurant than the first edition.
washington, d.c.: I notice that you often refer to Parkway Deli when asked about the better delis in this area. What about Krupins? I've had some good meals there. Phyllis Richman: Krupin's has a true deli atmosphere and style, but the food ranges from good to indifferent.
Arlington, VA: Phyllis, what is your favorite fast food? Phyllis Richman: That's hard. Probably Latin American rotisserie chicken, but it's hard to beat McDonald's hash browns and Popeye's fried chicken.
Washington, DC: The Food Section of the Post occasionally runs commentary on "crummy but good" restaurants. Have you ever thought to review these types of resturants? Phyllis Richman: Actually, I have reviewed some of the very same restaurants. The crab cake place near BWI comes to mind, though its name doesn't.
Alexandria, VA:
What area restaurants have
Phyllis Richman: Citronelle and Galileo immediately come to mind, though I'm sure there are more.
Washington, DC: A friend and I are about to lunch near the Waterfront (DC). Any recommendations? Phyllis Richman: 1. Pick up something at the Maine Ave. fish market and picnic.
Bethesda, MD: Many ethnic restaurants in Bethesda have their own unique and personal touch that only an owner operater can acheive. Delray Vietnamese Garden on Delray Ave comes to mind. Phyllis Richman: You're right. They are delightful exceptions to the BEthesda norm. And yes, Del Ray is a very personable restaurant.
Ft. Belvior, VA: Two restaurants I have heard mixed reviews about are Cafe Oggi (Italian)in the Vienna/Tysons area and Grill from Ipanema (Brazilian) in Adams Morgan. Any comment on their cuisine and atmosphere? Phyllis Richman: I like the Grill from Ipanema even if not all the food is what it should be. It's a bright, lively Brazilian place. I haven't been to Cafe Oggi.
Arlington, VA: Phyliss, when I used to visit here years ago, we loved the Silver Diner in Rockville. Now that they're everywhere, we can't seem to get good food or service at any of them. Any insight as to what happened to one of our favorite places? Phyllis Richman: It's that same old story. Expansion tends to flatten the quality.
Arlington, VA: Where would you go for a late-night hankering for a luscious dessert? Phyllis Richman: I don't know how late you can get them, but I'll tell you about three of the most luscious desserts I've had lately:
Montgomery Village, MD:
Although the Mongolian Grill seems to fit in with the description of those Bethesda Restaurant trying to make a quick buck, I can't stay away from those Sauces to choose from to douse your stir fry in.
Phyllis Richman: Chinatown also has a Mongolian Grill, downstairs from Tony Cheng's Seafood/
Arlington, VA: My wife, friends and I are quite the Thai food connoisseurs. Our favorite, consistently over the years -- even a step above Duangrat's -- is Pilin in Falls Church. What are your thoughts on this still-secret favorite of ours? Phyllis Richman: Sounds good. I'll try to check it out.
Vienna, VA:
As far as Cafe Oggi, I've been
Phyllis Richman: I think Bonaroti and Sergio's are awfully nice Italian restaurants, though perhaps not so good that I'd send people from halfway around the Beltway.
Fairfax, VA: Have you ever eaten at VietThai in Fairfax? It's a tiny little place on Lee Hwy that we tried the other night and we're pretty impressed with it. The atmosphere is nothing special but the menu had a pretty wide selection of Thai and Vietnamese food. Phyllis Richman: Sounds good. I like the mix.
Gaithersburg, MD: Can Phyllis review more restaurants in the suburbs? Phyllis Richman: I can try.
Silver Spring: The description of the French Onion soup appetizer -soup cooked down, chilled, cut into squares, then fried - in your mystery, "The Butter Did It" was neat. Does a restaurant around here actually serve it ? Phyllis Richman: Oh, so you;ve read it? Thanks. I invented that dish in my head, and I know of only one person who made it. No, nobody around here serves it. It's awfully tricky and labor-intensive.
Gaithersburg, MD: Another excellent Thai place and extremely reasonably priced is Benjarong in Rockville-- I suggest the Beef with Basil! Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the tip.
silver spring, md: I had a delicious dish at Saigon Gourmet on Connecticut Ave. It was called "Hanoi Beef" and was a stir-fry of beef, vegatables, and pineapple, with a strong taste of cucumber essence. I haven't been able to find a recipe, or other area restaurants featuring this dish -- Do you know of other local restaurants serving the dish, and/or would it be appropriate, in your experience, to compliment the chef at Saigon Gourmet, and ask for the recipe? Phyllis Richman: Restaurants are often flattered to be asked for a recipe, though sometimes they don't have it in a format that could be used by a home cook. I f you can't get the recipe, ask for a list of the ingredients, and find something similiar in a cookbook to help you figure out the exact proportions.
Washington DC: You often mention the Pope's Creek crabhouses, which are indeed the real thing; have you tried the Drift Inn in Mechanicsville Md, on the Patuxent? It's an even better spot for an afternoon of crab picking than Pope's Creek, I think. Two questions: Any dining recommendations in Cape May NJ? What about on the Eastern Shore, St.Michaels/Cambridege/Oxford area? Seafood, of course, is uppermost on my mind. Thanks. Phyllis Richman: I haven't been to Mechanicsville, but now will put it on my list.
Arlington, VA: For another hidden Thai restaurant, try Rincome, which is tucked into a little motel on Columbia Pike near the Arlington Cinema and Drafthouse. I've enjoyed eating there, and my friend "most likely to become a restaurant critic" cites it as her favorite Thai place. Phyllis Richman: I've been to Rincome, and have found it good but not outstanding. I have food-savvy friends who disagree, though, and consider it terrific. I might not have hit the right dishes or the right night.
Bethesda, MD: I'm surprised that you like Hee Been so much for Korean food. I found their Pan Chan (side dishes always served with a meal) were very poorly made and the food was only mediocre. I've found that Woo Lae Oak (Va.), although not living up to other branches of the restaurant (like NYC) is alot better. Phyllis Richman: I haven't been to Woo Lae Oak for years, but it was good when I was there.
Washington, DC: You didn't get to my Pho question last time, what's up with Pho? I've been to pho 79 in Arlington but have had to get it w/ out beef which is mostly fatty--the rest however is wonderful. What's the deal with Pho in this area? Phyllis Richman: If you got fatty beef in your pho, it was because you ordered fatty beef. Most of the cuts have the option of fatty or non-fatty (the fat gives flavor and body to the broth, so it is still popular despite current health concerns). I go there often, and I haven't found that problem; try them again.
Arlington, VA: A friend told me she had heard that Patrick O'Connell would no longer be coooking at the Inn at Little Washington, that the restaurant had been sold or something. Is there any truth to the rumor? Phyllis Richman: A rumor was circulating that the Inn at Little Washington had been sold to Marriott. Not true. O'Connell's partner, Reinhardt Lynch, was joking that they'd have to close the place for a year to replace all the wood with Formica.
Washington,DC:
Phyllis,
Phyllis Richman: I can't help much, but I hear there is a new AFrican restaurant in Adams Morgan--called Ghana Cafe. And I like the little African carryout--on 14th ST., I think--called Sumah's. (Surey a crummy-but-good candidate).
Arlington: Years ago we had a wonderful meal over in St. Michaels at The Crab Claw. Had what they call "fried hard crab." Do you know if that restaurant still exists, and have you ever dined there? Phyllis Richman: Yes, that's a long-time favorite. Fried hard crab is one of the most endearingly silly dishes I know. A hard crab is dipped in batter and deep-fried. So you've got to eat the batter off it before you get to the shell,then the crab. Good excuse for eating just crust.
Washington DC: French fries: who makes your favorite? Phyllis Richman: McDonald's in foreign countries, where they are still fried in part beef fat, which gives them incomparable flavor.
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