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    Phyllis Richman – Live!
    Hosted by Phyllis Richman
    Washington Post Staff Writer

    Thursday, July 30, 1998

        menu
    By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
    Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

    In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

    Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

    Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

    If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

    Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

    dingbat





    Washington, D.C.: are there any Basque restaurants in the metro area?

    Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone. Got your sandwich, your napkin and your pen ready for another lunchtime food session?

    Yes, there is one sort-of BAsque restaurant here. La Bergerie in Alexandria has a few basque dishes.


    Washington, DC: Best falafel in the District?

    Phyllis Richman: That's hard to say. Bacchus usually has good felafel, as does Lebanese Taverna. I've haerd that Samedi Sweets in Va. has great felafel, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Any of you have suggestions?


    Washington, DC: If you had to pick one restaurant in the DC or Northern VA area for dinner - and price was no object - which restaurant would you select? And, can you offer your selection for an appetizer, main course and dessert. Thank you.

    Phyllis Richman: Let's stretch Northern Va. to the Shenandoah. I'd pick our internationally celebrated Inn at Little Washington.


    Washington DC: I'm a huge fan of Mediterranean food, and love Lebanese Taverna in Woodley Park. Are there any good quick and cheap take-out options for this kind of food, i.e. falafel, hummus, shwarma, etc.?

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, there are many kabab houses in and around DC that serve not only skewered meats but hummos and sometimes felafel. The House of Kababs on M St. between 18th and 19th is a real bargain, with most lunches $5. Great rice with merely decent meat (the chicken on the bone is the best bet), nice spinach, and terrific freshly made pita. You can order hummos on the side.


    Alexandria, VA: Last week someone wanted to know of any good ice cream places besides B&J and Thomas Sweet. Well, I found a terrific place called The Lazy Sundae on Wilson Blvd. in Arlington. All the ice cream is homemade and comes in some creative flavors like root beer and key lime. The shop is like a throw back to an old penny candy store. It is also a much better deal than the more famous two. It is a good finish to picking crabs at the Quarterdeck.

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't tried this, but it soiunds terrific. I am a big fan of the crabs at the Quarterdeck, so this sounds like a valuable item to keep on my to-visit list.


    Gaithersburg, MD: What exactly IS a falafel?

    Phyllis Richman: Felafel (or falafel) is a fritter made of ground chick peas and parsley seasoned with plenty of other herbs, and often garlic. It is fried in walnut-size balls or thin patties, and served with tahini--sesame paste thinned with lemon and spiked with garlic--often as a sandwich in pita bread. It's Middle Eastern, of course, and it is a wonderful sandwich, snack or appetizer.


    Arligton, Va.: What do you know of The Mark restaurant? It's on 7th St., N. W.

    Phyllis Richman: See my review on Style Live if you want to know my thoughts on it.


    Arlington, VA: Re: takeout for Mediterranean food, the Lebanese Taverna has a market in Arlington (on Lee Highway). The selection is a bit smaller than what you can get at the restaurant, but all the basics are there (hummus, falafel, shwarma, tabouleh, etc.).

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, good tip. Great place.


    Washington, DC: Phyllis: Is there anything new and exciting in the Chinese Restaurant scene? What are your favorites?

    Phyllis Richman: Have you tried Hollywood East (yes, it's Chinese) in Wheaton?


    McLean, VA: Is the Cantina d'Italia in the Fair Lakes Center in Fairfax related in any way to the restaurant of the same name that once operated in DC?

    Phyllis Richman: I doubt it. CErtainly it hasn't the same chef or management.


    Washington, DC: Dear Phyllis: what is happening to Restaurant Provence? I heard about the difficulties between Yannick and Savino, and then Provence took a real nosedive. It seems such a shame for two such successful people to create this kind of difficuly for each other, that then affects all of us - the customers.

    Phyllis Richman: Sad story. I went back to Provence and had a disappointing meal--fairly good food but certainly not up to what it was, and definitely not worth the money. Then I was told that a new chef was coming in the fall. Who knows? We'll have to wait and see whether anyone as talented as Yannick Cam can be found for the site.


    Washington, DC: An ethiopian food question...
    most reviews rave about Meskerem in Adams Morgan...it is definitely a pleasant place to eat, and the food is quite good.
    But Addis Ababa down the street is PACKED with Ethiopian cabdrivers and has less atmosphere...is it just more "undiscovered"? I actually prefer Addis Ababa over Meskerem and wondered why more Ethiopians don't eat at Meskerem.
    Thanks!

    Phyllis Richman: Your instincts are exactly right. Addis Ababa is, as far as I've been able to find out, the preferred restaurant among Ethiopians these days. And I agree. Meskerem has slipped; it is still a charming place, but the food is bland. I prefer Addis Ababa--especially for its pleasant service. Its food is not as good as Meskerem's once was (or the late, great Mama Desta's), but it is as good as I've found lately.


    Washington, DC: Phyllis, Have you had a chance to review Ardeo?

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, but it takes several weeks for the Post Magazine printing process, so it will be appearing one of these Sundays soon.


    Washington, DC: Have you tried the new Swagat location in Woodley Park? I went with a friend recently and was disappointed with both the food and the service. I had to order three different entrees from the menu before I hit on one that the chef would prepare that day. It's really too bad because I so love the one in Adelphi.

    Phyllis Richman: I'm afraid that the food at the Adelphi location of Swagat isn't as good as it was, either.


    Washington, DC: You once said that La Fourchette reminded you of a restaurant in Provence because of the bricks on the wall. Have you ever been in Provence? I, for one, have never seen a single red brick in my travels there, but perhaps you are more travelled than me.

    Phyllis Richman: Details, details. I said that La Fourchette reminds me of Provence because of the mural--which is painted on the brick wall. But I'd be glad to go back to Provence to check on the accuracy of my recollection if the Post feels it's necessary.


    Bethesda, MD: Max's Deli in Wheaton has good falafel.

    Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, I forgot that one. Good catch. Thanks.


    McLean, Virginia: In a better-than-most type restaurant (say the Alpine in Arlington, VA) what is the acceptable time to wait for :
    1. a menu
    2. salad (first course)
    3. main course
    4. check

    Phyllis Richman: 1. A menu should be offered within minutes, unless you indicate that you'd rather linger over drinks (which should also be there in minutes) before you look at it.
    2., 3., 4., It is hard to give an exact time limit for such things, but unless you've indicated that you want to take your time, each course should follow within, say, a quarter of an hour. And the check should come as soon as you indicate to the waiter that you want it (well, within a few minutes) and not before you ask for it.

    Anybody want to contribute further thoughts?


    Washington, DC: Has the "new" Citronnelle lived up to the favorable reviews it got after re-opening?

    Phyllis Richman: As far as I can tell, yes. I have had only a couple of complaints and lots of compliments about it from readers and friends who have been there since I've been.


    Washington, DC: As far as Ethiopian... What about Zed's?

    Phyllis Richman: I prefer Addis Ababa, but others prefer Zed's.


    Washington, DC: Does a restaurant "owe" you anything when you send a dish back?

    We were celebrating my boyfriend's birthday at Lebanese Taverna and sent the special back...the lamb was exceedingly dry. We had to wait 20 minutes for another entree for him, while I picked at mine.

    Phyllis Richman: It certainly owes you an apology. Sometimes a restaurant will offer you something to nibble until your entree is prepared anew, and it should whisk out a new dish for you as fast as humanly possible.


    Gaithersburg, MD: I, for one, can never get enough of crabs, but I think lately we've "gone off the deep end" in our discussion of them.
    So in an effort to spawn a new verbal battle grounds, I'd like to know what you think of German cuisine (as heavy as it is) and if there is anyplace you have been that does authentic German food justice?

    Phyllis Richman: I love GErman food (but then, I love almost ALL cuisines). But DC is not the place to find good German food. Old Europe is good for wursts and such, and Cafe Berlin does some good dishes. But there's nothing outstanding.


    Gaithersburg, MD: I don't usually have the money to go out and have drinks as well as dinner, so usually it's either one or the other.

    Can you recommend a restaurant/tavern that serves a good variety of beer (imports) as well as a decent array of food?

    Phyllis Richman: The greatest variety of beers I know anywhere is at the Brickskeller on 20th St. And there is some good food there: several excellent burgers, decent fish dishes, a couple of interest hearty meat dishes. Nothing elegant, just satisfying hearty beer food.


    Staunton Virginia: Dear Ms. Richman

    I recently went to Duner's in Charlottesville and ordered the rack of lamb,
    In fact I ordered it without the fancy sauce, and asked instead for it to be roasted medium well (for flavor) and with garlic and rosemary. It arrived rare
    with too much rosemary and not enough garlic. I had to send it back twice -- the first time it came back it was still rare - the waitress said they had just heated the plate in the oven for a bit -- the second time it came back still rare and by this time it was 2 hours since I first sat at the bar feasting on the veal pate (quite good!). The waitress was flustered -- I explained that I don't blame serveers for the way the food is prepared. This has happened several times at various restaurants -- are chefs allergic to cooking lamb the way the customer wants it -- or, (as the son of a gourmet chef) ami just being an old fuddy-duddy? Yours in Mint Jelly, Doc Chapman of Staunton

    Phyllis Richman: Surely your not having such trouble finding properly cooked rack of lamb in Washington? I routinely find it cooked medium rare when I order it so, or rare when I want it that way. Your experience at Duner's sounds terrible but not exactly commonplace.


    Washington, D.C.: Can you recommend a Peruvian restaurant in the DC area? Also, where can we find the best Ceviche?

    Phyllis Richman: Washington has several Peruvian restaurants--El Chalan downtown, a couple around Piney Branch Road--though I don't know one that particularly stands out. As for seviche, it is excellent at many places. I've always like the seviche at Lauriol Plaza. Anyone want to chime in with suggestions?


    New York City: As a former Washingtonian, I am still trying to find the best crab cakes in DC. Who do you think makes the best crab cakes in the DC area?

    Phyllis Richman: Have I said this before? I'm really impressed with the crab cakes at the Narrows, on Kent Island on the Eastern Shore. In town, I think the appetizer crab cakes at Sam & Harry's are fine. And many others, though they are not coming to mind at the moment.


    Washington: There is a great german restaurant outside of Annapolis, though I can't recall the name.

    Phyllis Richman: Anybody out there know it? I'd be glad to hear of such a place.


    LEWES DE: HAVE YOU DISCOVERED ANY INTERESTING/UNUSUAL PLACES TO DINE ALONG THE WASHINGTON-REHOBOTH CORRIDOR?

    Phyllis Richman: I've been eager to try a place called Grove Market, but haven't yet. I've enjoyed Jimmy's in Bridgeville (I think that's the name of the Bridge.... town on the border between Md. and Del.). The Narrows I've already mentioned, and I've been a longtime fan of the Anglers Inn right near it, for the soft-shell crab sandwiches. I also look forward to the chicken barbecues along the side of the road on the way to the beach.


    Rockville, MD: Have you eaten at LA COTE D'OR in Falls Church? We think it's quite good.

    Phyllis Richman: It's a very French and quite charming place run by the former maitre d'/owner of La Brasserie. I think the food is all right, and the place is indeed pleasant.


    Rockville, MD: Re: German food, how about the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, W.VA?

    Phyllis Richman: A bit far afield, but quite good. It's also on one of the most spectacular waterfront sites you'll find along the Potomac (is that the Potomac at that point?).


    Gaithersburg, Md: You say the waiter shouldn't bring your check before you ask for it. Why? Too many times, everyone vanishes when you're ready to leave--no one around to ask for the check. I'd prefer they drop it off while I eat dessert. That way, when I'm ready to leave, I can, even if it's 15 minutes after I paid.

    Phyllis Richman: That's a matter of individual preference, and I empathize with your preference. When I want the check to be available as soon as I am finished, I ask the waiter to please bring it with the dessert or coffee, or I try to catch his/her eye to signal that I want it even before I am finished. But many people think that bringing the check unbidden hints that restaurant is rushing you to leave.


    Faifax, VA: Have you ever been to any good
    Persian restaurants? The best
    one I know is called "Shamshiry" in Vienna.

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, I agree, Shamshiry is as good a Persian restaurant as I've found at the moment. We have had some really wonderful ones, but now there are few.


    Reston, Va: What's the name of that roof top restaurant in Adams-Morgan?

    Phyllis Richman: There are several: Roxanne, Perry's, the Spaghetti Garden, and a Thai restaurant whose name esacapes me at the moment.


    Arlington, VA: La Cote D'Or is overpriced for the food.

    Phyllis Richman: I can't remember exactly what the prices are at the moment, but you're right as far as I can recall.


    Washington, DC: I'm surprised there aren't more good restaurants in Northwest, say beyond Cleveland Park. Ardeo just opened, and Arucola is up there (yuck)... why haven't more restaurants opened up here to take advantage of all the nearby filthy lucre?
    -- signed a guy in a $700 a month studio with expensive dining tastes <g>

    Phyllis Richman: It's a mystery to me, though I think changes are in the wind. Persimmon, in Chevy Chase, DC, is a new restaurant that is drawing people from that area.


    Washington, DC: I heard that there is a new spanish restaurant, someplace on upper wisconson Ave, that recently opened. Do you know anything about this?

    Phyllis Richman: No, but if anybody else does, please let us know.


    Washington, DC: The Sourcettes reported this morning that Hilary, Chelsea, and friends had a lovely meal at Zed's the other night. They even scooped up their food with bread.

    Phyllis Richman: Well, how else would one eat Ethiopian food?


    Rockville, MD: In defense of La Cote D'Or, their atmosphere, service and the proprietor, Raymond, is just terriffic.

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, he is a remarkably good maitre d'/restaurateur. Very professional and immensely charming. I wish he would produce better food--then this would be a knockout of a restaurant.


    Annandale, VA: For Peruvian, Cusco in Bailey's Crossroads is great. Lomo Saltado and Pescado a la Chorillana are excellent. The two guys who sing and play guitars on Fri and Sun. add nice atmosphere -- no cover.

    Phyllis Richman: I'd forgotten about this place, and i've never been there when there was music. Good suggestion. I think it is spelled Cuzco, isn't it?


    Rockville, MD: I heard that the former chef at La Brasserie opened a place in the District. Any info?

    Phyllis Richman: Haven't heard this bit of gossip. I doubt that it's true.


    Washington DC: What do you think of MIke Soper's two latest endeavors, Uncle Jed's Roadhouse and Soper's on M?

    Phyllis Richman: Mike Soper is a genius at inventing dishes that are interesting twists on homey classics. The problem is that restaurants where he's consulted haven't been able to consistently do them well. I'm looking into these two new restaurants; so far, I love their menus.


    WAshington, DC: The rooftop Thai in Adams Morgan is Star of Siam. Overrated if you ask me.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks for reminding us. I haven't been back there for a long time, but it was good when it opened some years ago.


    Washington, DC: Can you make any suggestions for moderately priced restaurants in G'town that have outdoor dining, or preferably a water view? While Sequoia has a nice atmosphere, I just am not impressed with the food.

    Phyllis Richman: For dining outdoors with a water view, I think the only answer is a picnic. In a very casual mode, you can pick up a sandwich and eat outside at Columbia Island Marina. Very pleasant spot.


    Washington, DC: This is just a comment about the bad habits of restaurant owners and staff, given your discussion about checks, timing, etc. My favorite bad habits include:
    ooForcing bottled water at ridiculous prices; your order one bottle, and they give your a case!

    oo Believing that they know more about what you should want, than you know!

    oo Giving you the impression you have no rights about where you want to sit, even if you reguested in advance, and called one hour ahead to remind them.

    oo Pouring wine so often, that it looks like you drank the whole bottle in 15 minutes, so you then-obviously- have to order another!

    oo Failing to have someone in the dining room who watches all the tables for the little things--bread, butter -- and, of course, parmesan cheese which they treat as if it were platinum!

    Well -- not everyone can be Vrinat at Taillevent!

    Phyllis Richman: Right on! I am particularly annoyed when a waiter keeps pouring your wine too full, as if pushing you to finish it in time to order another bottle. Ditto, pouring bottled water as if it were going to spoil in the bottle. The rest--keeping an eye on your needs--is just what a restaurant is supposed to do, of course.


    Washington, DC: The new "Spanish" restaurant may be Cafe Ole on the 4000 block of Wisconsin Ave, NW. I ate there a couple weeks ago and found the food to be daring, but mediocre. It is open very late, however, and has an interesting wine bar.

    Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear about your experience. I did know about the restaurant, but haven't been there yet and didn't realize it was Spanish (its description sounded Mediterranean). Having a new restaurant in that corridor is very welcome (a little competition for Cactus Cantina and Guapo's), and a late-night place even more so.

    The hour is up, and I'm hungry. See you next week.


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