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    Phyllis Richman – Live!
    Hosted by Phyllis Richman
    Washington Post Staff Writer

    Thursday, July 2, 1998

        menu
    By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
    Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

    In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

    Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington.

    Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

    If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

    Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

    dingbat





    Washington, D.C.: Many of my neighbors consider Adams-Morgan to be THE dining mecca of D.C. However, with a few exceptions (Cashion's, Cities) I haven't been overly impressed by the quality of the dining in that neighborhood. What are your favorites in Adams-Morgan?

    Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone. Fine day for dining in ADams Morgan, particularly outdoors.

    Since it's Friday, I'd head for Felix, for its wonderful matzo ball soup (even if it is summer), house-baked challah and brisket. Or I'd try the feijoada at the Grill from Ipanema. I've been a fan of La Fouirchette for decades, and I like some of the Southwestern food at Roxanne and Peyote Cafe. For rooftopo dining--though not very thrilling food--there's Perry's, or the Spaghetti Garden. That's a start, anyway.


    Arlington, VA: What can you tell us about D.C. Coast? The decor is very soothing.

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't been to this brand new restaurant yet (I wait a month or two before I begin to visit a new restaurant), but the chef is Jeff Tunks, who drew raves years ago at the River Club, then cooked in New Orleans at the Windsor Court. I expect a lot from this very accomplished chef. His signature dish has long been Chinese-style smoked lobster.


    Alexandria, VA: Dear Phyllis:
    Over the past few years I've noticed a disturbing trend of waiters or restaurants padding checks to add items which were never ordered, or overcharging significantly. For example, this past weekend at a popular D.C. restaurant, the waiter tried to charge us $6 per soda (they're $2 on the menu) and when we called it to
    his attention he tried to argue that there was a "weekend premium" and he only relented after the manager stepped in. Two nights earlier, at one of D.C.'s hottest restaurants, the waiter added two rounds of margaritas (to the tune of $34!) which we never ordered. He explained unapologetically that earlier in the night, a couple had ordered them and run out on the check, and he didn't want to get stuck with the tab! In your recent dining experiences, have you found that unscrupulous waiters and/or managers are on the rise and therefore scrutinizing checks is a good idea?

    Phyllis Richman: I don't think these scams are typical of restaurants, but they happen often enough that I am making them the subject of my next novel (a plug: it's a restaurant murder mystery, a sequel to my current one, THE BUTTER DID IT, and it's due out next April).

    The point is that you are responsible for checking over your bill and your credit card bills. The effort, you may find, is rewarded by saving a good bit of money.


    Washington, D.C.: I just read a story about hundreds of people becoming sick from Galveston Bay oysters. Can you offer any precautions for restaurant goers who like raw oysters? And if you have time, do you have similar advice about sushi?

    Phyllis Richman: I'm cautious about raw oysters. Though I love them, I only order them in places I know are safe, those that either inspect their oysters (like Legal Sea Foods) or buy them only from oyster farms. I feel comfortable ordering them at McCormick & Schmick, the Old Ebbitt, Geo. Seafood, for example.

    Sushi, too, should be approached with caution. I would hesitate to order it at anyplace other than an authentic Japanese restaurant.


    Gaithersburg, MD: Your Sunday review got me thinking about sushi. It somehow reminded me of a great little sushi place in Baltimore called Nu-no-da-ji. (Or some derivation thereof)
    It works as an all-you-can eat japanese, Thai, and Korean buffet. But the main reason I go is for the California rolls and sushi.
    The food there is great, but it's a tad too far for me to spontaneously drop in for a bite to eat. Are there any good sushi restaurants/bars in the immediate area you could suggest?

    Phyllis Richman: Washington has wonderful sushi bars. Sushi-Ko has just revamped and reopened, and it has always been fine. Makoto is excellent (out Macarthur Blvd). A small place in Va., called Asian Flavor, I think, fllies in some of its fishi from NY. Matuba in Bethesda and in N. Va. is a good value and good quality. I have heard good things about Sushi Zen in Va., but haven't been there yet. Anyone have more suggestions?


    Washington, D.C.: Phyllis,

    I have some Japanese friends in town here who insist that Makoto is the best Japanese restaurant in the area. They say that the rice is the best there. I told them I like the Japan Inn or Tachibana. Any thoughts?

    Phyllis Richman: I agree with your friends.


    Washington, DC: Phyllis, There's nothing I like more than a night of sushi and sake on Perry's rooftop in Adams Morgan. Anyplace you think does it better, with an environment that's just as fun?

    Phyllis Richman: Perry's rooftop is hard to beat for fun, but it's not where I'd go for sushi. See above.


    Reston, Va: Hi Phyllis, Since its the 4th of July I had to ask a question not concerning "fine dining", instead the question concerns american favorites. Where in the DC Area has the best fried chicken, and the best burgers. I have tried Five Guys and their burgers have blown me away. However it has been hard to find a good plate of fried chicken. Have a Good 4th of July

    H. Stern

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't tried these in a while, but I used to love the fried chicken at Southside 215 in Alexandria and at Georgia Brown's. But Popeye's is right up there, too.


    Washington DC: I'm a displaced New Englander with way too many shoes, still married parents and a "mad artist" husband. Can you recommend a good place for lobster, someplace away from the "crowds"-wink, wink!

    Phyllis Richman: For lobster, I'd just fly right up to Trenton Bridge, Maine, if I could, and eat it right out of the ocean. Short of that, I'd say that anyplace with lobstes in tanks that LOOK LIVELY is a good bet. Tell them you don't like your lobster overcooked--not more than 17 minutes steaming--and let them show you how it waves its tentacles and claws around before they cook it.


    Boston, Mass.: I'm a big fan of Southeast Asian and Ethiopian cuisines who visits D.C. occasionally. What are your favorites along those lines? Any new contenders?

    Phyllis Richman: I just tried Addis Ababa, in Adams Morgan, for the first time. It is a pleasant, if plain, place with lots of Ethiopians dining there, and though the food is a little too mild, there is a dollop of berbere--pepper paste--for you to spice it up. The food is good, the service is excellent.

    In Crystal City, Demara is also a worthwhile Ethiopian restaurant.

    Southeast Asian restaurants would day a day to list. Every suburb and downtown has plenty. Anybody want to mention their favorites here?


    Arlington, VA: What percentage of submitted questions do you answer?

    Phyllis Richman: Good question.

    I've been getting more than a hundred questions each time, and I can answer twenty or thirty. My apologies to those of you whose questions I don't get to.

    I'll give you a hint about my choices: I'd much rather answer questions that start discussions than recommend specific restaurants. I'd like to make this as much like a conversation as technology allows. The more general the question, th emore provacative, the more geared to general interest than to answering one person's problem, the more likely I am to answer it.


    Chapel Hill, NC: Phyllis,
    Have you been to Galileo since Todd Gray was named Executive Chef? The food seems as outstanding as ever. Have you noticed a difference since he took the helm from Roberto Donna?

    Also, an unrelated question: Since the world famous Bouley (sp?) was closed in New York City, what has become of that restaurant's chef?

    Phyllis Richman: Todd Gray has been the head cook--whatever his title--at Galileo for years. Roberto Donna supervises, but Todd has been doing the cooking. So there should be no change. I hear rumors, though, that he is planning to open his own restaurant soon.

    Re Bouley in NY, he is now running Bouley Bakery in Tribeca, a small, fairly casual restaurant plus bakery. He is also planning to open more restaurants.


    Falls Church, Va: I know you must get a lot of questions; if you didn't get to one last week, is it still "on the table" or must one resubmit it?

    Phyllis Richman: It must be resubmitted. Sorry, but the list would grow ever more unwieldy if we tried to save them.


    Washington: I believe you meant to say in your opening, Thursday, as opposed to Friday. As far as I know it is still Thursday, you probably get tommorrow off. Could you recommend a good place to take my kids to for dinner downtown before the fireworks? Cheap, yummy, and not crowded. oh, by the way, you always make me hungry!

    Phyllis Richman: Did we say Friday? It sure feels like Friday.

    As for places to dine before the fireworks, give up on trying to find one that's uncrowded. I'd go to the Folklife Festival for the most interesting food available this weekend. In fact, I probably WILL go to the Folklife Festival. I love trying something from each of several booths and finding a seat at one of the concerts while we dine.

    Otherwise, most restaurants are likely to be closed. Check the Weekend section tomorrow to see which restaurants are advertising, if you're looking for a more conventional dining option.


    Arlington, VA: With that in mind, I think the swordfish issue bears discussion. I think "See you later is better than goodbye" sums it up very well. We need to give one of my favorite fish a break so that we all will be able to eat it in the future. Many chefs are on board, as is princess cruises, and Publix, a large southern grocery store. Why do you feel that this isn't a worthwhile pursuit?

    Phyllis Richman: My problem with the swordfish boycott is that it doesn't really get at the problem. It is aimed at a narrow range of consumers, who don't begin to affect the swordfish consumption. As a statement, a rallying cry, it is probably worthwhile. But it's not likely to save the fish.


    Arlington,VA: Two: One, about your swordfish comment last week, how can you say it's not worth the boycott simply because you disagree with how it is being handled? It didn't seem like you had all the facts straight. Please check in with NRDC or Sea Web. Their efforts are being hailed as the first "positive" enviro campaign.

    2nd: Have you seen the new art at Aquarelle restaurant at the Watergate? What do you think?

    Phyllis Richman: I'll check oiut the sites. Thanks.

    Nope, I haven't seen Aquarelle lately.


    New York, NY: My wife and I are amateur foodies and we think that the food (if not the decor) at Red Sage is among the best and the most inventive in the U.S. However, your review of Red Sage was decidedly lukewarm.
    Are we wrong to like this restaurant so much?

    Phyllis Richman: Nobody is wrong to like a restaurant. It's great if you like a restaurant where you dine. Nobody else's taste is the same as yours, and nobody else's need influence yours.

    That said, I'll add that I love the look of Red SAge. And I don't think there is anything wrong with the food. It's good, and sometimes considerably better than good. But it doesn't live up to its promise. At its prices, it should be better. And in light of its competition, it doesn't make the grade in my book.


    Arlington, VA: The range of the boycott is ever expanding, but they had to begin somewhere. They decided that rather than be perceived as "Chicken Little" environmentalists, that they would try a positive campaign that people could feel good about supporting. They are trying to get the word out without attacking the big fishing companies or conglomerates, to try to affect change without conflict.
    Would you rather they were more forceful? What are your suggestions?

    Phyllis Richman: thanks for the input.

    And my apologies for the delay - the airwaves knocked me off for a few minutes.

    I can't say I know how to solve this problem, but I'll look into it further after today's chat.


    Washington, D.C.: Is there any such thing in our area as a French restaurant that serves vegetarian entrees? What about vegetarian "fine dining" in general?

    Phyllis Richman: I thik every FRench restaurant either does or will prepare a vegetarian entree. In fact, more restaurants of all kinds do these days. If you find a restaurant that doesn't have a vegetarian entree listed, look among the appetizers, salads and side dishes, and compose your own. Or check out what vegetables accompany the various entrees and ask for a plate composed of those that suit you.


    Washington, DC: How would you compare the various bakeries in town – i.e., Marvelous Market, Firehook, Uptown Bakers, Fresh Fields – in the categories of breads and non-bread sweets like cookies, cakes, pies?

    Phyllis Richman: Aren't we amazingly lucky to have all these good bakeries? Think back a half dozen years: What did we have that could be called real bread?

    The best bread--and admittedly, the owner is a friend of mine--is at the Bread Line. Mark Furstenberg started all the above when he opened Marvelous Market about half a dozen years ago and the others followed suit. But his is still the most consistently excellent. I think certain of Uptown's breads are righ tupi there--the large country bread (I've forgotten its name) comes to mind. Firehook has some outstanding breads, too. My favorite is the pistacho bread (available Weds. and Sat., I think). Marvelous Market--now under new management--has good breads, too, though more inconsistent. It has a fine new pastry chef, Patrick Musel, whose products are worth checking out. Kate Janssen at Firehook is also an excellent pastry chef. Fresh Fields breads are not even near competition for these serious bread bakers.


    Rockville MD: I was a waiter captain at Johnny's Restaurant in Bethesda 10 years ago. (8/88) I am the bald guy who was in the front of the picture used for the article. I served you and you wrote a glowing review of the food and decor without one word on service. I know you were treated well. Why did't you mention service in the review?
    I am out of the food business now, so the question is merely curiosity.

    Phyllis Richman: The reason I didn't mention the service was that I knew the restaurant had recognized me, so the service was bound to be affected by that. There weren't enough other diners in the restaurant the times that I was there so that I could get a good sense of what was happening at the non- critic table. I do, however, remember one lunch very well, since it was the last restaurant I took my mother to before she died. It was a wonderful lunch, and such excellent service that I've always wanted to thank you for making this memorable moment such a happy one.


    Gaithersburg, Md.: Phyllis,

    I have been going to Watsons
    Restaurant in Frederick for over 15 years for their fried
    chicken. I believe they broatch it. I've never tasted
    better fried chicken...not even the Southern Fried Chicken at Deer Park Restaurant at the Biltmore Estate in North Carolina could measure up to it, even though it was very good. Have you ever eaten there. It's right up in Frederick, Maryland on West Patrick Street.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggestion. See ya'll in Frederick.


    Washington, D.C.: Why is it the Greater Washington area Vietnamese restaurants do not serve lettuce with their crispy spring rolls? In L.A., I was always recieved a plate of fresh lettuce accompanied often by basil leaves and such. I think spring rolls are greatly enhanced by by wrapping them in lettuce. I make a habit of requesting the lettuce but often find the restaurants skimpy with the lettuce. Surely it can't be the cost since lettuce seems to be the ubiquitous orniment on most Vietnamese dishes.

    Phyllis Richman: Our Vietnamese restaurants have been changing, and more often offering lettuce with the spring rolls. They have always offered it with the grilled skewered meats and seafood, but only recently offered it with spring roll appetizers. If they don't bring enough (an doften they don't) just ask for more.


    San Fran: On the swordfish topic. Rallying Cries are great and substantial and should be supported. I don't think it should matter much if it is really the ultimate solution to the problem. Some people may hear about it, from you maybe, and subsequently find themselves more interested in protecting the oceans. Next thing you know they are sailing off in the Rainbow Warrior to stop factory trawlers in the Pacific Northwest, all over a rallying cry for swordfish.

    Phyllis Richman: Good point. I'll spend some time thinking this over, and I expect others out there will, too.


    Vienna, Va.: I recommend Great Harvest Bread Co. in Vienna and Herndon, though I haven't tried the places you list as tops.

    Phyllis Richman: It's been years since I tried this bread, but I remember liking it.


    washington, DC: I totally agree with you on Red Sage. I can accept reasonable food at reasonable prices, but when prices rise to $50 per person or more, I believe that consumers have every right to expect a great meal.

    My nominee for most overpriced is Asia Nora. Food is good, yes, but not nearly enough to justify its stratospheric prices.

    Phyllis Richman: I couldn't agree more.


    Annandale, Va: Mike's American, The Carlyle Grand Cafe, Silverado, and the Sweetwater Tavern are, I believe are all, owned by the same group. I call up these restaurants for a reservation and they put me on some list and when I get there, I sometimes have to wait up to 45 minutes. I like their food but I find this really annoying! What gives? Why can't I get a real reservation? Why don't they have real reservations in at least part of their restaurants?

    Phyllis Richman: Restaurants risk losing money when they take reservations, because some are no-shows, and others come late, thus tie up the table for more time and bring in less revenue. So the restaurants above are trying to compromise, giving "reservations" that are really preferred waiting lists. It's too bad if they dn't manage them better, and leave people waiting 45 minutes, but I can only assume that such glitches will ultimately lose them customers (and I hope those who don't come back explain why they're not coming back).


    Springfield, VA: Good morning Ms. Richman.
    I would like to know if you rate the hygiene of the restaurants you review and how you do it. My unconventional barometers are the restrooms that I suppose reflect the employees' concern on the matter. Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: In general, I think our restaurants are clean. But when in doubt, check out the restroom (and even more important, try to peer into the kitchen on the way to the restroom). No, I don't evaluate hygiene when I am reviewing a restaurant. That would take a kind of examination that I can't do as an anonymous diner. If I find a restaurant really unclean, I just don't review it.


    Olney, Md: Several years ago a friend invited my wife and I to Trumpets. I admit to some minor hesitation in going but at that time it made your 50 favorite restaurants. We had a very pleasant evening and the food was great. The restaurant has fallen off of your top 50, and your last review was good but not glowing. We are planning a trip back. Any recommendations?

    Also we travel to Frederick often. Do you travel there at all? We like the Brown Pelican and the Province, and there are other establishments that offer good value.

    Phyllis Richman: Trumpets, alas, has closed. Its chef, DAvid Hagedorn, is very creative and talented, and I'll look forward to his moving on to a new restaurant one of these days.


    Annapolis, MD: Please continue your policy of not reviewing any of Annapolis' many fine restaurants, they are already too crowded with tourists and we don't want to encourage any more!

    Phyllis Richman: Glad to oblige. It's difficult to go far afield,with so many new restaurants always opening in D.C.

    Of course, I'm always ready to recommend Cantler's for sitting-on-the-water pounding-at-hard-crabs great evenings.


    Washington, DC: Phyllis, what would you choose
    as your last supper and which
    local chefs would you want to
    prepare it?

    Phyllis Richman: I'd probably cook it myself.

    Time is just about up. Do you realize we avoided pizza altogether today? Maybe next week we'll even get beyond sushi (although they are two of my favorite things to eat).

    Have a happy Fourth. I already had my annual hot dog (at the Orioles game the other night), so I'll look forward to something else all-American at the Mall.


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