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    Phyllis Richman – Live!
    Hosted by Phyllis Richman
    Washington Post Staff Writer

    Thursday, June 25, 1998

        menu
    By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
    Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

    In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

    Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington.

    Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

    If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

    Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

    dingbat





    Washington, DC: What options are there for Spanish food in the city?

    Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everyone. Who's hungry? An hour of our restaurant talk should send all of us out for lunch at 1 p.m.

    As for Sapnish food, at the top of the ladder is Taberna del Alabardero, very elegant and quite authentic. You can go throughout the day to the tapas bar or at lunch or dinner to the lace-and-velvet dining room. It's on 18th St. downtown. At the opposite end, there's the Churreria Madrid in Adams Morgan (on Champlain St., I think). For breakfast it has those wonderful teardrop-shaped Spanisih doughnuts to diip in hot chocolate, and it has the usual Spanish classics for l ucnh and ddinner as well.


    Potomac,Md: Where is the best pizza in the area?

    Phyllis Richman: A decade ago I would have said you'd have to go to NY for good pizza. Now there is good pizza lots of places. The tops, as far as I am concerned, is at Pizzeria Paradiso on P St. But I also like the old-fashioned pizza at AV Ristorante on NY Ave., and the quirky flaky square pizza at Ledo (especially the original in Adelphi, MD). Generous George is good, and there are many more. Anyone want to add some suggestions?


    Arlington, VA: What are your top choices among area restaurants for families with small children?

    Phyllis Richman: Depends on the children. And your budget. Places like Monroe's in Alexandria, Slade's and Chadwick's and such are naturals for children, but many also like Chinese restaurants and Italian restaurants (THat's AMore serves family-style) and Mexican restaurants also suit children. They pack'em in at Rio Grande Cafe, and the kids like to watch the tortilla machine. How about some suggestions from parents on this one? My kids are grown.


    Washington, DC: I Plan on asking my girlfriend, for her hand in marriage. What restaurant in the downtown DC area would be the most appropriate setting for this. Must be semi-private and economical.

    Phyllis Richman: This depends on your taste because there are two important characteristics in choosing a restaurant for a proposal: 1. You should be comfortable there. After all, you'll be nervous anyway. 2. You should look for a restaurant with a track record, one that's been around for awhile and is likely to still be around for your first or fifth or 10th anniversary. Way back when I was a young thing getting a marriage proposal, it was at an Italian restaurant in Adelphi (not Ledo, or the marriage might have lasted longer). There apparently was a knife fight in the kitchen, and we waited so long for our dinner that we got around to talking about getting married. But probably most of you are better planners.


    Reston, Va: Good Afternoon Phyllis, I just read your article on The Mark and thought it was on the mark <-- pun.
    I have a question. It seems that the restaurants you report on often have a price range of 12-35 dollars for a dinner entree. Do you visit places based on price ranges? I have noticed that the little shops such as Charcoal Kabob in Herndon (One heck of a place) get overlooked in your wonderful critiques. Well keep up the good work!

    H. Stern

    Phyllis Richman: I certainly don't choose restaurants to review on the basis of price; I love finding bargains and passing them along. Please tell me more about Charcoal Kabob.

    That said, the restaurants most people want to read about (I think) are those they've heard about. That usually means fairly upscale restaurants. And downtown restaurants tend to fall in the $12 to $35 range, too. But I occasionally come across a centrally located restaurant that's interesting and good, and also a bargain. REmember the CAravan? It's on 17th or 18t St above Mass. Ave. and has a fascinating Middle Eastern buffet for under $10 for lunch or dinner.


    Vienna Va: Not a question, but a follow up to the pizza question. I've never been disappointed in Bertucci's. Their tomato sauce is very good. Interesting ingredients also. Also enjoy CPK.

    Phyllis Richman: All I can say is that our tastes consistently differ. I think BErtucci's pizza is passable (I like the bargain-priced mini pizza for carryout) but I've found CPK's pizza no better than a pizza-flavored sandwich.

    Ok, I'm ready for a barrage from the CPK fans.


    Alexandria, Virginia: Any D.C. area restaurants that serve Scandanavian cuisine?

    Phyllis Richman: That's what we're missing in this city. We need smorgasbord, herring salads, open-face Danish sandwiches, Janssen's temptation, etc. etc. There is a Swedish fish store in Arlington, but no restaurant that I know about.


    Vienna, Va.: For kids, Bertucci in Tyson's Corner is good, if you get there early enough to avoid a long wait. They give kids a little ball of pizza dough to play with until the food comes. And their pizza is pretty good, too, faithful to the style served in Italy, with selections like Quattro Stagione.

    Phyllis Richman: I'm in favor of letting kids play with the pizza dough, as long as they're not the ones behind the counter making my pizza. In other words, I think there is a lot to like about BErtucci's, but it is not great pizza.


    Washington, DC: For NY style pizza, there's nothing close in DC to Whatsabagel on F St. A tiny place on K St. between 14 & Vermont called Beau Jolies also ranks up there. Pizzaria Paradiso is yummy, but serves a whole different kind of food.

    Phyllis Richman: I work right around the corner from Beau Jolies, but I haven't noticed it. Thanks for the suggstion.


    Washington, DC: Caravan is on 18th street between Swann & T.

    Phyllis Richman: Thank you. I find it hard to remember those details when I'm trying to churn out answers fast enough for all of you.


    Washington: I too find Bertucci's and CPK to be passable at best. Coming from Chicago, there is nothing that even resembles pizza here. When I find Pizza Hut to be the closest thing, that should tell you something.

    Phyllis Richman: Yup, that tells me a lot. The last time I was in Chicago, I found that its famous pizza places had taken a nosedive. I'll still go to New Haven when I want world-class pizza in this country (oh, that I could get Pepe's to deliver a white clam pizza this far!).


    Reston, Va: Follow up on Charcoal Kabob

    prices for an entree range from 3.95 to about 6 dollars i think. they have a very tender lamb kabob. they have this chapli kabob which is infused with cumin and corriander. Thier bonless chicken breast kabob is light and refreshing. every dish comes with rice with chick peas or spinach served on it. Also the tandoori bread there is phenomenal.
    This restaurant is a must try for tandoori lovers.

    Phyllis Richman:
    Tandoori lovers take note.


    Alexandria, VA: My husband and I really enjoyed eating at Le Lion D'Or. I know they have closed down. Have you heard if Chef Goyenvalle has plans to reopen , maybe at another location ? Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: My guess is that M. Goyenvalle has decided to retire. He's earned it, after decades running one of the top French restaurants in town.


    Vienna again: Just FYI, I won't expect an answer, but I'll concede that Bertucci's isn't great pizza, but it is a reasonably priced place suitable for small children. As far as pizza goes, there have been scads of entries posted on the topic on the dc.dining newsgroup. It is a religious war about NY pizza vs. [your favorite style goes here]. It's almost pointless to conduct a discussion about pizza.

    Phyllis Richman: That sound like the final word to. On to other topics.


    Wash, DC: I have been searching all over the DC area for authentic Jamaican cuisine. The best I have found is Negril, but no one prepares Jerk chicken as they do in Jamaica. Any suggestions?

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't found authentic jerk chicken anywhere outside of Jamaica. But....there is some inauthentic and quirky but nevertheless delicious jerk chicken (it's more stewed than grilled) at a little place called CArib Delite, somewhere around 3rd or 4th St., not far from MCI Arena. I wrote about it when the Arena opened. And up the scale, CAfe Atlantico does some interesting variations on the jerk chicken theme. If anyone finds real jerk chicken hereabouts, please let us know.


    Fairfax, Virginia: Great for kids: Maccaroni Grill. They can color on the table. The food is good, too. Love that bread they serve.
    CPK and Bertucci's are both overpriced, average pizza.

    Phyllis Richman: I've heard good things about Maccaroni (sp?) grill, but haven't tried it yet.


    Rockville, MD: Amalfi's in Rockville makes an excellent white pizza and is very reasonable. Also Gepettos on Old Georgetown Road near Montgomery Mall, has excellent deep-dish pizza.

    Phyllis Richman: Ok, I can't resist. Two more pizza responses. I agree about Amalfi's, and think Gepetto's is pretty good, too.


    Washington: Chicago Pizza person here, when you were in Chicago, did you check out Lou Malnatti's or Gino's? Those were the two that I frequented most and found to be 4 star locations.

    Phyllis Richman: This is, I promise, the end.

    Gino's was an old favorite of mine in Chicago, but it isn't what it used to be.

    Goodbye, pizza.


    Burke, VA: This may sound sophomoric, but do you know of a place that serves good Philly cheesesteak around here?

    Phyllis Richman: There's nothing sophomoric about Philly cheesesteaks. For a long time, Phildelphia Mike's was the best, but I haven't been there in a while. I did notice, when I passed the original branch in BEthesda the other night, that it was very busy. Good sign.


    Washington, D.C.: I've heard lots of great things about Vietnamese restaurants in the area, but have been hesitant to try any because of a bad experience at a Vietnamese restaurant in new Orleans that was a little too authentic, i.e. the Pho was filled with calf's liver, random fish parts, etc. What Vietnamese restaurants would you recommend that serve high quality food for somewhat squeamish Americans?

    Phyllis Richman: If you want authentic pho, you've come to the right town, even if you are squeamish. You needn't be confronted with liver or random fish parts or even bible tripe. Just order your pho with the meats you choose. At Pho 75 in Arlington, you have a long list of meat options, and the place is as authentic as the soup. The Eden Center has several pho places, and just this morning somebody called to tell me about a place in Falls Church called pho 888. As for all-around Vietnamese food, plus pho, you should find Nam Viet (in Cleveland Park and in Arlington) easy to like.


    Washington, D.C.: How can your stomach handle eating so much rich food so often? Do you ever get to the point where you just want a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for dinner?

    Phyllis Richman: oh, yes. often. ACtually, peanut butter and jelly is not my favorite comfort food. At this time of year, that's a sandwich of sliced RIPE tomato, a slice of sweet onion and an anchovy or two. Or just bread and cheese. Of macaroni and cheese. Or pasta with broccoli. Or . . you get the idea. Rich food is lovely to have once in a while, but a steady diet of it makes you crave, well, a diet.


    Takoma Park, MD: Phyllis:

    I'm distressed that the better restaurants (particularly those in the downtown DC area) are all geared to the expense account crowd -- and the prices are too high for the average gourmand who likes to go out. In NY this is not particularly a problem...is there any way restaurants in this town could be encouraged to offer some lower-priced alternatives for those NOT on an expense account?

    Phyllis Richman: It's inevitable that restaurants in high-rent locations are going to charge high prices, or they'll have to cut somewhere: atmosphere, service, etc. So if you want excellent food in a popular location, you've got to give up some amenities. For example, the Bread Line (one of my favorite places, and it would be even if the owner weren't a friend of mine) serves the best bread in town, and fills it with high quality sandwich fillings and makes outstanding soups and salads. BUT you have to serve yourself, you don't find tablecloths or even upholstered chairs, and it's not open for dinner. Other places might give you a lot of cushiness for your money but skim on the food quality. The fact is, h igih qulity and food and plentiful service and elegant appointments are expensive to provide.


    Washington, DC: How "New Heights" is reviewed so rarely? In recent memory, I don't recall you or Washingtonian singing the praises of this wonderful restaurant.

    Phyllis Richman: New Heights is undergoing some change. Namely, the chef. When the new chef is in place, you can be sure I'll get back to review it again. I do consider it every year for my dining guide, which comes out in Oct. It used to be included but in the past couple of years it hasn't made the cut.


    Silver Spring: CRAVE A DIET??!! Never! As AJ Liebling once wrote, food writers have but two opportunities a day to conduct research; no sense wasting them worrying about cholesterol ...

    Phyllis Richman: I must admit, I was exaggerating when I said I sometimes crave a diet. The craving lasts about 10 minutes, especially if there is something good in my refrigerator. And I'm always willing (if not always eager) to devote my stomach to the rigors of my job.


    Arlington, VA: How often do you eat in your own kitchen?

    Phyllis Richman: On days when stay at home, too often.


    Fairfax, Va.: Have you ever tried to disguise yourself in order to review a well-known restaurant?

    Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes. Once, when a prominent restaurant opened in a hotel, I even checked into the hotel (under an assumed name) so I could try the food via room service. Usually, though, I wear disguises when I appear in public or on TV.


    Washington, DC: What are your favorite types of food (e.g., Chinese or Indian)? If you could dine anywhere on an unlimited budget just once, where would you go (in the D.C. area...an hour or two away is okay)?

    Phyllis Richman: Probably half of us, at least, would have the same answer: The Inn at Little Washington.


    Gaithersburg, MD: I was online last week watching your Q & A session and a point was brought up about how service in a number of restautants has been [not so good]. I was out last night at Mozzarelli's in G'burg and while the food was great, I found that the waiter was particularly slow and made several errors in our orders.

    How long does it typically take to become a "good" waiter/waitress. And do all resraurants when they first open have service problems?

    Phyllis Richman: It doesn't have to take long to become a good server, if there is the will to work hard, pay attention and try to put yourself in the diner's place. And if the restaurateur shares his expertise with his servers, takes the time to teach them and goes to the effort to supervise them. Many restaurants start with service problems because the setup is new and the routine needs to be established. At some, the problems grow worse because the manager doesn't pay close enough attention or demand top performance while encouraging the servers to learn and rewarding them for doing well.


    Washington, DC: We are looing forward to celebrating my wife's birthday at the Old Angler's Inn tonight. An recommnedations on what to order?

    Phyllis Richman: What's more important is where to order it. If the weather is decent, be sure to dine on the terrace. That's 3/4 of the reason for going to Old Anglers. As for the food, consider the simpler dishes first.


    Washington, DC: Phyllis:

    One of my favorite meats is pork. So many American restaurants overcook it. Is there anything wrong with ordering it medium?

    Phyllis Richman: Not a thing. Trichinosis has been wiped out in this country, so there is no reason pork must be well-cooked. Ii prefer it faintly pink, like veal. Certainly not pink or red inside, since I think it doesn't taste at its best that way. But it should be still juicy inside.

    By the way, pork seems to be returning to restaurant menus. It's always been on the menu-with mustard sauce--at La Fourchette in Adams Morgan, but now many restaurants offer a pork dish, and it often has more flavor than beef.


    Manassas,Va: Even though this question may sound a bit brutish, What is your favorite chain restaurant, such as Olive Garden, Red Lobster, Chillis, etc.. The reason I ask this is because in Manassas this is all we have chain restaurants. Are there any decent non chain restaurants in Manassas?

    Phyllis Richman: My favorite chain has been, alas, Roy Rogers.

    I also crave a Big Mac on occasion, or a big sloppy burger from Burger King or Wendy's. Popeye's fried chicken is great for a once-in-awhile meal.

    I have heard about Manassas restaurants that sound good--Panino, Pasta Festival, North China Inn, Chez Marc and Los Mananitos, but I was driving around there last week and looked for them but all I found was Chez Marc...and it was the wrong time for eating there.


    Washington DC: Phyylis, I've noticed that Caribbean Delite is all closed up. Too bad, no?

    Phyllis Richman: Sorry to hear that. Now somebody out there has to let us know about another good Caribbean restaurant to take its place.


    Aberdeen, MD: When you dine at ethnic restaurants, do you bring along someone of the appropriate ethnicity to get his opinion as to the authenticity of the food?

    Phyllis Richman: If I am not familiar with the cuisine, I do take along someone who knows it well. I also research in in cookbooks and such.


    Washington, DC: I think Luna Grill on Connecticut Ave. has gone downhill lately. Tons of service mistakes, wilted lettuce, Velveeta grilled cheeses, etc. Is it just me?

    Phyllis Richman: No, it's not just you. I had breakfast there one weekend recently, and while it was jam-packed, I found the food disappointing, not up to what it had been.


    Washington, D.C.: I would like your opinion about an experience I had while dining at City Lights of China last year. After my wife and our friends finished dinner and paid the bill, we spent a few more minutes chatting while still seated at the table. After 10 minutes, our waitress came back to the table and informed us that many people were waiting for tables and hinted that we should leave. We were all shocked. I realize that City Lights is a popular place, but the dining experience is more than just feeding at the trough and scurrying away so the restaurant can squeze as many diners in as possible. Part of a Saturday evening dinner at a nice restaurant includes extended conversation. If City Lights wants to squeeze in more customers, THEY need to move to a bigger location, not interfere with customers' dining experience. As far as I'm concerned, asking patrons who have just spent about $100 on dinner to leave the restaurant is simply unacceptable.

    Phyllis Richman: I've had a lot of complaints about City Lights since it changed management. I called the new manager, and he told me that he doesn't like customers to stay too long--he named some unconscionably short time he considered a fair use of a table before he tried to move them out. But the place is still crowded. I intend to check it out again first-hand soon.


    bethesda, md: Do you really think that a Scandinavian restaurant would work in this area? I'm very familiar with Danish cuisine but am not sure that smorbrod would work out here but would love to see it, perhaps in a gourmet-ish deli? Do you think washingtonians would go for it?? Please answer!!!

    Phyllis Richman: Someone did try a Scandinavian restaurant about a decade ago--in Georgetown--and it was not a success. But Washington is different now, and I think it could work.


    Arlington, Va: What are your favorite pastimes, not including eating, of course?

    Phyllis Richman: I love to read. Not enough time for that. I'm a movie-holic. I love exploroing the city, driving around the countryside on small roads (if I don't have to do the driving). I love all those things that dining out nearly every night doesn't allow me to do.

    And now, off to write a review and. . .maybe. . .get back to my book. See you next week. Thanks for a great packet of questions.


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