|
Post Magazine
This Week:
Leaving the Wheels Behind
With John Briley
Special to The Washington Post
Monday, March 11, 2002; 1 p.m. EST
You have no car. You have no ride. But you want to get away for a few days. What to do? Hop a train to the countryside. To Clifton Forge, Va. Or to Charlottesville. Or Harpers Ferry.
Freelance writer John Briley, whose article "Making Tracks" appeared Sunday in The Washington Post Magazine's Spring Travel Issue, was online Monday, March 11 at 1 p.m. EST, to field questions and comments about that article -- and about the art of vacationing without an automobile.
Briley is a senior editor at iJet Travel Intelligence in Annapolis.
A transcript follows.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
John Briley: Good afternoon - Thanks for joining the e-discussion of my Sunday magazine article on car-free escapes from D.C. With so much heavy news weighting down the Post these days, I'm happy to see some of you found time for soem wanderlust reading. I'm with you for the next hour, so let's get right into it.
John Briley
Arlington, Va.:
I've heard of Charlottesville and Harpers Ferry. But where is Clifton Forge and what recommends it?
John Briley: Hi Arlington - Clifton Forge is southwest of Charlottesville, along the Virginia-West Virginia border, in an area called the Allegany Highlands. Western Virginia and eastern West Virginia are among my favorite regional getaway spots: The country is rugged and vast, the people are real laid back and the clocks tick noticeably slower than the ones we use in D.C.
What recommends Clifton Forge is scenery and outdoor play – endless hiking and biking options, fishing, golfing, and relaxation. The feeling is similar to hiding out in a Montana ranch, minus the airfare.
Caveat: Don’t go there seeking cultural enlightenment. Clifton Forge’s charm is in its distance – physical and otherwise – from sprawling urbanity.
Bethesda, Md.:
Do you think it possible to do a bicycle vacation with kids ages 10 and 12?
John Briley: Bethesda - Absolutely, but you know your kids better than I do. The Harper’s Ferry trip summarized in the story is probably perfect for that age group because it offers the C&O Canal towpath, the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, and the recently-upgraded KAO campground (with game room!).
The primary issue with pre-teens is attention span. The towpath is easy cycling, but is a bit homogenous. One option may be to bike with them for a good part of one day – perhaps even throwing in a little hiking on the Appalachian Trail – and drag them through a Harper’s Ferry historical tour the next day, bringing them home that much smarter.
And HF is a comparatively quick train ride, reducing your exposure to the whenarewegonnabethere chant.
Washington, D.C.:
Is there a way to get to local beaches without driving?
John Briley: If by “the beach” you mean the nearby shores of Delaware and Maryland, you may be out of luck. Neither Amtrak nor the Greyhound bus serve the closest sand strands. However, Greyhound does serve Virginia Beach: The 6.5-hour ride costs about $65 round trip (the drive in a car is about 4-4.5 hours).
As a teenager in the 1980s I hitch-hiked to Ocean City a couple of times - super cheap and fairly quick! - but I doubt that's what you had in mind.
Also, Atlantic City, N.J., is accessible by train and bus. Take Amtrak to Philadelphia and transfer to NJ Transit (http://www.njtransit.com/). AC is obviously gambling-centric and I find the main beach up there a bit junky, but other discussioneers may have had better experiences. Anyone?
Washington, D.C.:
How do you transport all the luggage you need on a bike?
John Briley: D.C. - Glad to hear somebody out there is thinking of going big. The piece was more intended for people who planned to base in one of the areas and do day rides, but it is possible to pack for a multi-night bike trip.
Options include saddle bags – those nylon or canvas rectangles you see draped over rear wheels on bikes ridden by urban commuters or, more often, those people who look like they started pedaling in Seattle.
Another way to go is a bike cart (not the official name), which looks like a wheel barrow attached to the back of the cycle. I pedaled with one of those before and, while I certainly was aware of the extra weight, the thing was remarkably stable.
No matter what, you want to pack lighy and smart - your legs will feel every extra ounce and you will seriously question the value of that John Grisham hard cover you packed, especially on uphills.
Unless you are packing incredibly light (and by that I mean one extra pair of underwear and a Powerbar), DO NOT try to carry your life on your back while biking. The physics simply don’t support it.
Washington, D.C.:
Can you recommend some bicycling itineraries, taking the metro to the farthest station and doing a full-day round trip from there? I'd like to escape the suburban scenery as much as possible. Are there any good biking-hiking combination trips?
John Briley: DeeCee - I thought about researching your question when I started the article, but turned instead to the train strategy (no help to you, I know).
However, I think your best bet is Shady Grove. I have done some road cycling in that general vicinity, specifically on the back roads near Schaefer Road (spelling?). The thin, winding pavement quickly leaves the suburban subdivisions behind, giving way to rolling farmland.
Re biking/hiking: Schaefer Road also leads to a trail system - just past the new Montgomery County soccer and recreation complex - called Schaefer Farms. Terrain is a lot like Rock Creek Park. Schaefer is used more by mountain bikers than hikers (one of the few legal mountain biking trails nearby) but most of the bikers are polite and I have seen quite a few hikers out there on nice days.
Any other chatists have recommendations?
Arlington, Va.:
I found myself wishing your article was longer. Seems like there is lots more you could've included in the article. What did you leave out?
John Briley: Arlington - Good eye. Yes, space constraints forced some omissions. A key one is the Roanoke, Va., and surroundings, particularly the wonderfully wild Jefferson National Forest. I spent an Easter weekend camping there a few years back and found it fabulous - clear, babbling streams, bone-jarring mountain bike trails, steep hiking, ribbons of scenic asphalt snaking up the mountains to the Blue Ridge Parkway. And miles and miles of wilderness backpacking.
Herewith, from my notes:
Blue Ridge Bicycle Club: Phone: 540-776-7884; Web: www.roava.net/~bike. They offer rides with leaders each weekend.
Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club: 540-344-1877 (Larry Metayer)
(with advanced noticed may offer shuttle service for a small fee)
Blue Ridge Parkway - Roanoke Mountain Campground:
Primitive camping sites available April-October. Hiking within walking distance. Explore Park, approximately 8 miles
George Washington and Jefferson National Forests: 540-265-5100. Includes information on hiking and camping.
Yellow Cab: 540-345-7711 (starts at $1.80 and runs $1.60 for each mile).
Crosstrails Bed and Breakfast - At the crossing of the TransAmerican Bike Trail and Appalachian Trail. (Owners Bill and Katherine Cochran) www.crosstrails.com and email - xtrails@infi.net. They cater to outdoor entusiasts.
Arlington, Va.:
This is not a question but rather a correction of one statement you made in your March 10 article. In that article, you mentioned the alleged possibility of checking a bicycle from Washington, D.C. to Harpers Ferry, W. Va. (or vice versa) on Amtrak's daily Washington-to-Chicago Capitol Limited train. Unfortunately, however, the Harpers Ferry station, being one of the smaller stations on the route, does not handle checked baggage. Just thought you'd want to know this.
John Briley: Arlgtn - thanks for the tip. I had a heck of time getting straight answers from Amtrak. Headquarters assured me bikes were check-able on that line.
jb
Washington, D.C.:
I noticed in your article that bikes must be in a box on Amtrak. That is ridiculous. Where do you find a box like that and how in the heck do you transport it to the train station all boxed up? Seems as if Amtrak has gone out of its way to make bringing a bike a hardship.
John Briley: D.C. - Yes, boxing a bike is a pain (yes, I've done it), and it may be more efficient to rent one at your destination. But if you really want to go the cardboard route, most bike shops have boxes, either for a few bucks or, if you're lucky, for free.
In terms of getting the box to the station...you got me. The trunk of the cab?
I'm with you on pushing Amtrack to make at least one car on each train bike-friendly.
22903:
Duuuuuuuuude: If you can't bike from the Charlottesville Amtrak station to the Rivanna Reservoir Trail without taking a taxi, don't even think about riding the trail. It's only, like, 5 miles, max, and you can do some of it off-pavement (including some singletrack) over Observatory Hill. Ask at a bike shop (Blue Wheel is on Elliewood Avenue at The Corner, the closest shopping to the Amtrak Station).
John Briley: 22903 - Right on! (Or is that 'ride on'?) Thanks for the local intelligence.
- 20015
Arlington, Va.:
My husband and I are thinking of taking
the Canadian train from Toronto to
Vancouver in May, which we hear is has
spectacular scenery. Any tips or concerns
we should consider before finalizing our
plans?
John Briley: A-ton, Va. - I can't help too much with this one, other than to say what I always say to folks planning geographically wide-ranging trips: Give yourself more time than you think you need. Each little dot on the map is an adventure waiting to happen, and the spaces between the dots can be even more memorable.
Take in an overnight or two off the train along the way, especially (if feasible) in the Canadian Rockies (unbelievable scenery, unpredictable weather).
Anybody else out there roamed the width of Canada?
Washington, D.C.:
I don't drive. That alone makes my vacation plan more complicated. Are there any West Virginia resorts that are accesible by Greyhound or Amtrak? I have been trying to find winter resorts with their own ski trails last December. Most of them require taxi drives from nearby town.
John Briley: WDC - Like you, I'm unaware of direct train or bus service to winter resorts. Greyhound goes to Uniontown, Pa., not far from Seven Springs resort (but the bus ride is a brutal 6+ hours, versus three hours in a car). Amtrak stops within striking distance of numerous New England resorts, for example in Rutland, Vermont, not far from Killington, the East's biggest ski resort.
I think you might have to give in to the taxi industry, unless another participant has ideas...anybody?
Washington, D.C.:
Dear Mr. Briley,
As someone who enjoys outdoor adventures but is concerned about the environmental impacts of car emissions, I found your article refreshing and informative. I'm hoping you can answer a few questions to help me plan a car-less excursion to one of your suggested destinations.
First, which of the three places you discuss offers the best nightlife (e.g., music, restaurants)? I'm also wondering if pets are allowed on Amtrak trains? Thanks again for the fantastic article.
John Briley: Thank you D.C. - Best nightlife is in Charlottesville. College town: That says it all. There's a nice walking mall in the center of town and bars/restaurants to suit all tastes (I'm assuming you're not too eccentric?).
Regarding pets on Amtrak, I am not sure (but I know from experience that the dining cars serve wet and dry food).
Laurel, Md.:
Aren't rail fares pretty high in the Northeast corridor?
I did some comparisons a few months back and I think the lowest DC-NY fare was $60 each way while Chicago-St Louis, a comparable distance, was $35. It seemed like in the rest of the country Amtrak was competing with buses while in the NE Corridor it's competing with Airlines.
It seems there's a catch-22 here: anyplace rail could be cost-effective, the fares will go up. When my wife and I visit Philadelphia or NYC, we drive to a suburban rail station and commute in. Nothing else makes sense.
John Briley: Laurel - Agree that NE train fares range from steep to out-of-the-question, but if you figure the train ride as a part of your getaway, the cost becomes more bearable.
And you are absolutely correct: The rails do compete with the skies in our region. Another drawback of our over-populated, over-rushed little slice of the planet.
And speaking of...
We rushed right through the hour chat. Thanks to all who chimed in. And whatever you decide to do, don't listen to that poster who recommended weekend housework. Get out there and have fun. The work will be waiting when you come home, provided you don't miss your train.
jb
| |
© Copyright 2002 The Washington Post Company | 
