By Craig Cola / wp.com What's Cooking Hosted by Kim O'Donnel washingtonpost.com Staff Wednesday, January 13, 1999 Kim O'Donnel, Restaurants & Food producer of washingtonpost.com, recently was live for the first of her online kitchen discussions. A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her free time in front of a stove or with her nose in a cookbook. Stay tuned for more live food and wine discussions every Wednesday at noon: Jan. 20: The Grapevine, with Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz; Jan. 27: What's Cooking, with guest Mark Bittman, author of "How To Cook Everything;" Feb. 3, What's Cooking, hosted by Kim O'Donnel; Feb. 10, What's Cooking, with guest Sam Gugino, author of "Cooking to Beat the Clock." Plus: Every Thursday at noon, Post food critic Phyllis Richman leads a live discussion on Washington's dining scene. Following is the transcript from this week's discussion.

Kim O'Donnel: Hi everyone and welcome to the first installment of what I hope to be a forum for home cooks and a place to learn new things from each other's kitchens. It's a real treat to lead this conversation.
Now, for some guidelines: I'm here for advice, tips, suggestions and troubleshooting, but will stay away from the nitty gritty details in recipes. If you've got a specific recipe question, you can send me an email message and I'll try to respond within a week. I expect that many of you will have suggestions of your own to add, so please chime in at any time.
I'll try to get to everyone's questions within the hour, but if I don't, send them along in the coming weeks.

Washington: I have never successfully poached an egg. How is it done?

Kim O'Donnel: The key to poaching eggs is to be Zen-like in your approach. For starters, add a teaspoon of white vinegar to your pot of water and gently, gently bring water to a simmer. Poach one egg at a time (depending on size of pot) and have a slotted spoon on hand to gingerly remove from water when done (about 3 to 5 minutes, white will be firm, yolk will look filmed over) If you're making a bunch for brunch, set aside on paper towels and reheat for about 30 seconds in that gently simmering pot as you're ready to serve, over English muffins or toast, brioche, whatever you're making.

Washington, DC: I've recently cut out dairy products from my diet due to health concerns. Could you help me with recipe ideas that would provide alternate sources of calcium?

Kim O'Donnel: There are a bunch of ways to get your calcium without dairy. You can do green veggies, such as broccoli, and those of the leafier variety, such as kale and collard greens. Dried beans and legumes, including black-eyed peas, lentils, garbanzos (chick peas), navy beans, all also good calcium bets, and of course, there's the soybean and its derivatives: tofu, tempeh and soymilk.

Ashburn, VA: Hi Kim,
I've been seeing all of these low fat cookbooks that mention kitchen "must-haves." What do you consider to be the staples of a well-stocked, healthy pantry?

Kim O'Donnel: Great question. A well-stocked pantry is the first step in overhauling the way you cook. If you've got nutritious staples on hand, there's no way you can make excuses for being lazy and unhealthy (unless of course, you're hankering for a big ole piece of fried chicken and you're allowing yourself that occasional indulgence). Start off with rice, a couple different kinds of grains for variety, including bulgur and barley, some cous cous. A big can or two of whole tomatoes. Beans of many kinds, both dried and canned (when you're running out of time). Olive and canola oil-- canola is a bit more versatile, has no real flavor, both are good options for lower (and better) fat options. We'll get into that later. Let's see, fresh garlic, a couple of onions, fresh ginger, a handful of lemons and limes for flavor without fat, that should get you started. Let us know how you're doing and when you're ready for stage two.

Bethesda, MD: I've become so afraid of undercooking chicken that I routinely serve what my fiance has lovingly dubbed "Chicken Sahara-style." Am I overly concerned for nothing? Any tricks of the trade to know when the chicken is done without being bone-dry?

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like you've been taking lessons from my mother. We just to eat fossilized boneless breasts as kids.
Well, the first thing you should do is go out and buy yourself a meat thermometer. They're under 10 bucks at any Williams-Sonoma and I think even Fresh Fields carries them.
You're right, chicken does need to be cooked through and through, unlike beef, and the thermometer will help you be safe but not turn out objects only a desert creature could love.
You want to look for an internal temperature of about 160-165 degrees; higher than that, you're pushing fossils. Lower than that, it's still a bit of a risk.
Of course, we're talking about chicken on the bone. Boneless breasts is more of a press your finger option (meat should feel like the tip of your nose)or use a fork and see if juices run clear.

Washington, D.C. : I've been using olive oil as a substitute for butter or margarine and sometimes even for vegetable oil. Are there limitations to what one can use olive oil for, either in preparation or seasoning? Can you fry with it?

Kim O'Donnel: Kudos for using less butter and more olive oil. Calorically speaking, they're very close (over 100 calories per tablespoon), but olive oil has less saturated fat and other benefits.
It's quite versatile -- there's a book out called "Olive Oil: From Tree to Table" by Peggy Knickerbocker that offers many different ways of using olive oil, even in desserts. I've used the book and it's worth a look.
One thing to keep in mind: olive oil does have a distinct flavor, which comes out in baking, which you may or may not care for.
If you want to fry stuff (not saute but make fried chicken for example), try using an oil with a higher burning point, such as peanut or canola oil. (Although peanut oil is higher in fat)

Arlington, VA: I love soups, but I can't find anything unique in any of my cookbooks--it's all minestrone, black bean, chicken noodle. Got any ideas? Looking for something vegetarian.

Kim O'Donnel: Soups are wonderful things this time of year and I urge all of you to whip one up this weekend, so you can have it around for a few days. I just got a book called "Saved by Soup" by Judith Barrett, and it focuses on healthy, lower fat (and interesting) soups.

Falls Church: I live in an apartment building, so I don't have access to a grill. I love a good steak, but find that it's generally not worth it unless it's been cooked over a charcoal grill. The broiler kinda works, but not really. Do you have any suggestions on how I can cook a steak so that it's still delicious, even without the grill? THANKS.

Kim O'Donnel: Steak, if and when we crave it, can be heavenly. And you can make a great piece of meat without a grill. For instance, you can sear a marinated steak (a little soy sauce, a little mustard, some lime juice, a little garlic) in a very hot pan, (don't touch it too much!) get it brown and carmelized on both sides and then finish it off in the oven to your desired temperature.

McLean, VA: What should I know when it comes to the shelf-life of spices? Is there any way to extend of the shelf-life of infrequently used spices?

Kim O'Donnel: You have spices from 1962, too? Get rid of them!
And rather than display them on that cute little shelf, put them in your freezer. Spices lose their personality if kept near a hot stove so preserve their life and keep them nice and chilly.

Washington,DC: I just graduated from school and realized that if I don't learn how to cook, I will eat out for the rest of my life. Can you recommend a good cookbook for beginners?

Kim O'Donnel: When I got out of college and wanted to learn how to cook, I bought a copy of "New Basics" by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Even though I have over 100 cookbooks, I still refer to it, all dog-eared and stinky from sauce drippings, etc.
Martha Rose Shulman just came with a new title, "Light Basics Cookbook," that may work. I'd also suggest Mark Bittman's "How To Cook Everything," (Mark will be a guest here on Jan. 27) but try Shulman first if you're a hard-core beginner. Anyone have titles they swear by for getting started?

Bethesda Maryland: About making Chicken Stock: I have a disagreement with a friend about when to add carrots, celery and onion. My friend says as soon as possible, or right after you add the chicken. I suggest that over the several hours it takes to make stock, you can boil away the aromatic qualities of those veggies, so I don't add them until the last 45 minutes. What do you think works best and what stock recipe do you use?

Kim O'Donnel: Everyone has a theory on making chicken stock, it seems. Check out today's Food section for its feature on chicken soup-- with lots of tips and ways to get started.
As for me, I put the veggies in after the water has come to a boil( a slow boil, not a raging boil), but that's what I learned at cooking school...

Richmond, VA: Can you give me a recipe for a tastey but easy pomodoro sauce? I never cook pasta for myself becuase I hate pre-made tomato sauces. Any suggestions??

Kim O'Donnel: Several years ago, I stayed in Paris and learned this recipe for pomodoro sauce from an Italian friend and still use it:
If you're making sauce when tomatoes are out of season, use whole canned tomatoes. Don't even think of using those hot-house babies.
Saute some garlic ( I use about three cloves, but I love garlic) in olive oil --throw in your tomatoes, add hot sauce, chiles of your choice (a touch of red wine if you want) and bring to a boil. Then turn down heat and cover until tomatoes are soft. Season with salt and pepper. Now you're set.

denver, colorado: my husband's birthday is coming up and i'm looking for a more healthy recipe for birthday cake. are there any substitutions that can be made to a traditional cake recipe? and will those substitutions work for high altitude baking?

Kim O'Donnel: If you want to make a healthy dessert, cake is probably not the way to go. But if you must, how about an angel food cake, accompanied with a fruit coulis?

Washington, DC: How healthy is deep-fried boned fish? I've tried to cook it other ways but I can't get the same texture. Is there something I'm missing?

Kim O'Donnel: Deep-fried anything is not the nutritious way to go, no matter how you rationalize it.
Why don't you try broiling or grilling your fish?
Marinate with some citrus and/or wine, herbs, however you want to flavor it and do away with oil, every once in a while for a change. Your heart may enjoy it.

Sacramento California: I love grapefruit. How can I make them more interesting? I am willing to try salads, main courses, desserts, appetizers.

Kim O'Donnel: Grapefruits, as well as other citrus fruits, are wonderful low-fat additions to sauces, marinades and dressings.
Squeeze a grapefruit half (and maybe that of an orange) over greens, over fish for lovely flavor. citrus seems to tenderize chicken and fish, too.

Arlington, VA: My whole wheat flour has some flour post beatle "cobwebs" around the sides of the paper bag. Do I need to get rid of the whole 2 lb. bag?

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, yes and yes. A new bag of flour is cheaper than a visit to the doctor.

Washington, DC: I am trying to enroll in an excellent culinary school. Can you please suggest one in the Washington, DC area.


Lynette Garner

Kim O'Donnel: I did not go to cooking school in the Washington area, but I know plenty of folks who have had success at L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg and Bethesda.
For more selection, you've got to look outside of the Beltway. There's a guide out there, something called the Shaw Guides to Cooking Schools, although I don't have the exact title. Anyone out there know the name of this very useful reference?
Oh, and don't forget "Becoming A Chef," by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page.

Los Angeles, California: If a recipe calls for pork stock (freshly made)can I substitute chicken stock?

Kim O'Donnel: Hmm... depends on what you're making. Chicken stock (or vegetable stock) is definitely the most versatile -- if you're trying to go for a heartier, meatier flavor, I'd say use beef or veal stock over pork stock....it's real common.

Alexandria, VA: I love to eat pasta, but am sick of the traditional sauces (tomato, alfredo, etc.). A couple of weeks ago I had something called alla vodka, a pink sauce made with heavy cream. It was so good that I want to make it at home, but apparently I have to ignite vodka in a pan. At least, this is what the recipe calls for. Does burning vodka or other liquors enhance the flavor of dishes?

Kim O'Donnel: Flambeeing, or firing up spirits in a hot pan, does accentuate flavors in a dish. But please be careful. One way to ensure keeping your eyebrows intact is to pour your alcohol and into the pan and ignite off the heat and then return to heat.

New York,NY: I'm a single woman, modified vegetarian (I eat fish, but rarely prepare it) and enjoy cooking, but my repertoire is pretty limited (homemade pasta sauce, tofu & veggie stir fry, black bean and spinach burritos) Any suggestions for another low maintenance dinner recipe (that has leftover potential) to add to my list?

Kim O'Donnel: I'll share with you a few tried and true, last-minute meatless options: Open up that can of garbanzos, saute them with a little garlic and chile pepper. Add that can of whole tomatoes. Cook until tomatoes are soft and season as you like. In meantime, cook up either rice or some couscous.
Spoon garbanzo-tomato mixture over rice/cous cous and garnish with fresh parsley.
30 minutes, tops. And you've got a meatless, complete protein, that's great the next day for lunch.

Alexandria, VA: Responding to the college grad who needed a good basic beginner's cookbook.... I'ma 29 y.o. who loves to cook, but had to teach myself to do it when I graduated. I've found that the "New Basics" is not all that basic. Recipes tend to be multi-stepped, and often call for ingredients that a beginner might be unfamiliar with. My favorite for beginners would probably be the New Joy of Cooking. Not only are the recipes easy to follow, there is a wealth of info on actually handling and preparing food in general. Just my 2 cents. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your input. Cooking is such a personal thing, so it's great to get several ideas, especially when it comes to resources.

Arlington, VA: Have you ever eaten an ostrich?

Kim O'Donnel: I have. But I've never prepared one. Ostrich is a very lean meat, so it needs to cook for only a short time or else it will get very tough. The flavor is stronger and gamier than chicken and it's a bit stringy in texture. But sliced and cooked medium-rare like duck breast, can be quite tasty.

Alexandria, VA: Help! I love cheese! I know that in general, cheese is not too good for you, but some cheeses are worse than others. What are the "healthy" cheeses?

Kim O'Donnel: Healthy cheeses. Sounds like an oxymoron. Well, it's all about moderation, right? Don't completely deprive yourself of cheese if you love it, but go easy.
First of all, stay away from those so-called "fat-free" cheeses in the supermarket. They tend to be very rubbery and lacking flavor.
Parmeggiano and goat cheese are places to start. A 60 percent Brie is not.
Check out Steve Jenkins' "A Cheese Primer" for more ideas.

Oakton, Va: Is there any way to prepare a white sauce ahead of time and still keep it fresh? Usually a scum appears on the surface.

Kim O'Donnel: Cover it with plastic wrap (right onto the surface of the sauce) and hold it in a container over simmering water. Should eliminate your scum problem.

Kim O'Donnel: Well, it looks like we're out of time. Thanks for all the great questions and join us here at this space on Jan. 27 with guest Mark Bittman, author of "How to Cook Everything."
See how quickly an hour can go when you talk about food?

   |       |   

Back to the top