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  •   Phyllis Richman – Live!
    Hosted by Phyllis Richman
    Washington Post Staff Writer

    Thursday, December 17, 1998

    menu
    By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
    Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

    In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

    Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

    Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

    Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

    dingbat






    Arlington, VA: As it's now about the peak of oyster season, any recommendations for non-yuppy, down and dirty raw bars, maybe somewhere on the bay? Downtown restaurants are nice, but who wants to eat oysters surrounded by a bunch of drunk 25-year old lawyers with cigars in their mouths...

    Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon. I assume most people are spending this lunch hour Christmas shopping and that the rest of us can have a nice cozy small-scale chat. So chime in with comments or suggestions as you wish.

    As for the question at hand, I, for one, am reluctant to eat raw oysters at a down and dirty raw bar these days. I eat them at place I know check their oysters and their sources for contamination. So I'm comfortable at Legal Sea Foods, Old Ebbitt Grill and Georgetown Seafood Grill, for a start.

    But if you're eating cooked seafood - crabs, shrimp, cooked clams or oiysters, there are plenty of places I'd recommend. Foremost, the crab houses on Pope's Creek in Maryland south of DC. Robertson's, Capt. Billy's. They've got a water view and plenty of down-home atmosphere.


    Washington, Dc: Looking for a dinner spot for a Sunday night for a friend and I and his parents. Of the following four which would you choose? 1789, Goldoni, Galileo or Provence? Thanks. You're great. Love the chat. You make my brown bag lunch seem like a special occasion!

    Phyllis Richman: I know Galileo is open on Sunday nights, so that's by default the one I'd suggest. If 1789 is open I would urge you to give that a try. As for Provence, it's in flux, and was dreadful last time I tried it--after the partners split up and chef Yannick Cam left.


    Washington, D.C.: My boyfriend and I are taking the advice that you gave to someone a few weeks ago and staying in New Years Eve and making our own dinner. We have our hearts set on cooking lobsters or some other fresh seafood (king crab legs, etc.). I would prefer not to go to the supermarket. Are there any fish market type places in the area that sell good, fresh seafood??

    Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear about your wise plans. There are indeed some very good seafood markets hereabouts. Pesce on P St. sells excellent seafood to cook at home. Be sure to order ahead. Cannon's is a long favorite in DC and a superb seafood market. In Arlington, the Swedish Fish Col (also called the ARlington City Market or something like that) is very good. I haven't tried the fish frm the Bethesda fish markets, but there are a couple of them there.


    San Francisco, CA: What can Washington, D.C. do to combat its reputation of being a city with below average restaurants?

    Phyllis Richman: Invite you to see how wrong that impression is.


    Washington, DC: Do you know what is opening in the space that used to be Larimer's and then Market Day on Connecticut Avenue in Dupont Circle? There is a sign over it with the name Viareggio, and it looks like it could possibly be an Italian market but there is no sign indicating when or who is opening it. Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't heard what is going in there. An Italian market would be welcome, but I'd be surprised if that's what it is.


    Washington DC: Do you have a favorite secret espresso drink spot in the city? Or do you fall back on Starbucks for cafe mochas like I do?

    Phyllis Richman: I happen to like STarbucks. But also like Xando, Brothers and the espresso place right near the DC Courthouse, but I've forgotten its name. I just drink plain unadulterated black coffee, though, so I'm not a good source on more elaborate drinks.


    Arlington, VA: I must vent please! I am insulted by waiters trying to rush us through dinner. If I'm paying $150-$200 for dinner on a Sat. night, I want to take my time & enjoy. This has happened at Greenwood, I Ricchi, Capitol Grill, many others I can't think of just now. I've even been told the chef won't accept orders unless all courses are ordered together. Restauranteurs beware - we will mention more names when this occurs. Notable exception - The Prime Rib. What do you think?

    Phyllis Richman: I wouldn't except the Prime Rib from this. The problem is success. Restaurants that have all the business they can handle like to try to handle more than they can comfortably. WAiters earn more when the tables turn over faster. All that can be done about this is for diners to refuse to accept the practices in a docile way.


    Vienna, Va: Hi! Love this chat feature. Thanks for answering our questions. Mine has to do with Brazilian food. Aside from Coco Loco are there other Brazilian restaurants in DC? I heard Amazonia has closed?

    Phyllis Richman: There are several: The Grill from Ipanema, the one on Pa. Ave. on the 240 block, and a couple of churrascherias (Rockville and in Va.), though I haven't had good luck with those.

    I'm really sorry to hear AMazonia's closed. It is in my new book, and we checked quite recently and found it still open.


    Northwest: My girlfriend and I tried Mongolian for the first time last weekend (Mongolian Grill) and enjoyed it. Not knowing much about Mongolian food we don't know if we had "good" Mongolian or not. When eating a cuisine we don't know well, be it Ethiopian or Mongolian, how can we tell if it's good Ethiopian or good Mongolian? Does it just take time and experience to train the palate to new cuisines?

    Phyllis Richman: The important thing is whether it tastes good to you. Why would you care whether it was "good" officially if you didn't like it? Just enjoy your enjoyment.


    Arlington, VA: Re caffe mochas, the best one I've ever had was at the Dean & Deluca at 19th St. They seemed to use a good hot chocolate rather than the cocoa powder some places add to a latte. But I had a mediocre caffe mocha at the Dean & Deluca on M St.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks for your suggestion. If you're looking for hot chocolate, on the other hand, you can't do better than Patisserie Cafe Didier on Grace St. in Georgetown (It's changed its name, but it is still the same place, more or less).


    McLean, VA: Following up on that Brazilian restaurant question, I heard of a new restaurant in Adams-Morgan called Tom Brazil. Have you heard anything about it?
    Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, I have heard of it but haven't been there yet. Anyone out there who's been to it?


    Arlington, VA: Phyllis, I think the Brazilian restaurant on PA Ave -- Brasil Sol Y Mar-- has closed too.

    Phyllis Richman: I keep getting questions about what trends it see. So here's one: Brazilian restaurants are no longer a trend.


    Rockville, MD: For the person looking for fresh seafood, Cameron's is an excellent source. Their crabcakes are a great bargain at $2.99 - almost all crab and barely any filler. They have stores in Silver Spring and Rockville that I know about. They sell live lobsters, too!

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggeston. That's one of the Bethesda places I was trying to recall.


    Alexandria: Do you have an opinion on La Madeleine? Is it good French food? Would you ever review such a cafeteria-ish place? Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: I've been there, and I have no strictures against reviewing such a place. I just didn't find much to say about it. It's an attactive restaurant chain with chain-restaurant cooking and baking.


    Vienna, Va: What is your opinion on the Fish and Meat stands at the Eastern Market, inside the building? Is it of good quality and price? I usually go for the fruits, breads and vegetables band was wondering if I should begin to turn my eye towards the butcher stands as well

    Phyllis Richman: I've had good luck with them, and I like supporting such local enterprises.


    Arlington, VA: Phyllis,

    Thanks for all your help over the years. I'm trying to find out if there are any good restaurants with views of D.C. in Arlington/Alexandria. I've heard there's a hotel with a rotating rooftop restaurant in Crystal City .. but is the food any good? Can you get both good food and a good view? Thanks.

    Phyllis Richman: I keep trying to find good food with a view, but haven't yet. I haven't tried all the Crystal City rooftop restaurants, but haven't heard that they are more than standard hotel food. It is hard anywhere to find good food with a view; it seems that once a restaurant offers a view it can succeed with indifferent food, so it doesn't make any more effort than necessary.


    Washington, D.C.: Phyllis....

    For your reader that wanted to know about seafood companies - a new one is opening up in Arlington at 2710 South Glebe Road. It is a well know fish house from New York, M. Slavin & Sons. We supply all the superior restaurants in Manhattan.. Le Cirque, Daniel, etc. We will be open in a couple of months and will be selling retail and wholesale seafood.

    Mary Saint~Pierre
    M. Slavin & Sons, Ltd.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks for letting us know. And please let me know when you are actually open so I can look into what you're doing and report back here.


    Arlington, VA: A seafood follow-up:

    I've heard of a great seafood restaurant in Rosslyn on Ft. Myer Drive that supposedly flies in Maine lobsters twice a week. I'm not sure of the name. Any thoughts?

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't heard of this. Anyone else?


    Germantown, MD: It is next to impossible to get my meat and potatoes husband to go downtown. Can you recommend some good restaurants in the Montgomery County area that have good food for a moderate price. I'm tired of the Outback.

    Phyllis Richman: Nope, I'll encourage you to continue to try to get him downtown. In general, you'll find a higher proportion of excellent restaurants. How about taking the Metro? That's what I do when I dine in Bethesda or Arlington. It makes the whole process much easier.


    Gaithersburg, MD: For the person who wants a down & dirty place to eat raw oysters....try the eaterie at
    Baltimore's inner harbor. They have a building that's devoted only to food and I saw a couple of seafood vendors shucking clams & plump oysters!!! You can sometimes find lots of tables around the vendors as well.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks.


    Bethesda: Florida market has the widest selection of seafood and by far the lowest prices. For quality and freshness, Cannon's can't be touched

    Phyllis Richman: I agree.


    Hyattsville, MD: I've noticed that in the Washington Post a lot of the really good "backwater" restaurants, i.e., Ben's Chili Bowl, are not featured too often. Is it possible to put a spotlight on these restaurants too?

    Phyllis Richman: Okay, here's a chance for me to plug my new book. The new edition of the Washington Post Dining Guide is on the stands (the cover is green and it ihas a banner saying, "1999-2000 edition, so don't accept the old edition). It has a lot of restaurants with entrees starting under $10 (you can find a list in the back). And it includes some very inexpensive restaurants I've never reviewed before. It's in bookstores and at Giant supermarkets. And I'd be glad to sign any you leave at the desk at the Post before DEc. 22 or after Christmas (be sure to include a stamped envelope or pick it up the next day).

    Back to you....


    Arlington, VA: That seafood restaurant in Rosslyn that was mentioned is the Lighthouse Tavern at 1901 North Fort Myer
    Drive. I never ate there, but it's in the D.C. Access guide.

    Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes, I'd forgotten. It has long been a very good place to get lobster that's high in quality and reasonably priced. Thanks.


    Arlington, VA: Years ago (at least 30), my father used to get Russian Black Bread from Sam's Argentine Bakery. It was wonderful! I know that Sam's has long since gone out of business, but I was wondering if there are any places in DC (or VA) where I could still purchase such bread?

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't found any, nor have I been able to reproduce it on my own. The next-best thing I've found is some dense and very dark black bread from Canada that some fancy food stores have stocked.


    Arlington,VA: Hi Phyllis,

    In a long line of questions about restuarant service in the area,I have found another example of better service in VA. My partner and I ate at BistroBistro, he ordered a steak, I order fish. His steak came extrmemly rare when he asked for medium. He asked to have it cooked a bit more. After I had finished my meal and had it cleared, my partner had not received his steak. We informed the waiter to have the steak to go. They apologized PROFUSELY and paid our check. The manager came over to express her disappointment.

    After seven years of dining in this area, with cockroaches, fortgotten appetizers and meals, horrible service, and incorrect orders, this is the first time I have had a check paid for. Do you think in our situation they should have paid? We told them we would.

    Phyllis Richman: For years Bistro Bistro has been known for its caring service. I'm glad to hear that reputation is still deserved.


    Washington D.C.:
    I'm looking for a Christmas gift. Any suggestions for a quality cooking class (one or two session max) in the D.C. or Northern Virginia area? Where would I be able to find this information?

    Phyllis Richman: The Post published a complete list of cooking classes in the area last Sept; you can probably find it in the archives of this website. And check out L'Academie de Cuisine. It has the most complete choice of cooking classes around, though its Md. location might not suit you.


    Arlington, VA: Hi, Phyllis -- love the chats! Hope you don't mind a somewhat personal question. Given that you basically eat for a living, has it been a challenge to stay in shape and watch your weight, or are you blessed with a speedy metabolism? I'm a total "foodie" -- I love to cook and bake (and eat, of course), and I adore trying new restaurants, but I'm finding that I don't do any of these things nearly as much as I'd like, because I need to be so vigilant about what I eat. Most of the time, I live vicariously through your restaurant reviews and the Post food section!

    Phyllis Richman: After many years of restaurant reviewing, I've given up on watching my weight or really staying in shape. I walk as much as possible, particularly on weekends, to try to stay in minimal shape. And when I'm not eating in restaurants I try harder to eat healthfully (since I have to sample menus across the board when I'm dining out).


    Chevy Chase, MD: I've recently relocated here from Miami and am having major withdrawls from a lack of good Cuban food. Any suggestions of where we might try for some yuca and ropa vieja?

    Phyllis Richman: We have very few Cuban restaurants, but we have many Salvadoran and other Central American restaurants that serve wonderful yuca and ropa vieja. Atlacatl in Va., Juanita's on 11th St. downtown and several restaurants on 14th St. near U or in Adams Morgan should satisfy your cravings.


    DC: As people are planning for the holidays, what do you do? Do you go out, stay in? Go away from all this craziness in DC? If you do go out, what do you look for, as in the sense of food or do you look for pleasurable quiet or NOISE?! (Since you are not working)

    Phyllis Richman: I go to NY for the holidays to see my children and old friends, and we have developed a Christmas-day tradition of taking the subway to Coney Island, walking along the boardwalk then feasting on zakuska--a tableful of appetizers, like mezza--at one of the Russian restaurants in Brighton beach.I prefer quiet with my peace, so I avoid the noisy restaurants with a live band. I want to spend my mealtime talking with my relatives and friends.


    Arlington, VA: Good Afternoon,
    I have taken classes at Judy Harris' Cooking School in Alexandria and thought they were pretty good. If you do a search on the Internet her school should pop up. Also, just want to share with the group that I had a fabulous meal at DC Coast last week. It should be mentioned that there is second floor seating--which is away from the bar and quieter.

    Happy Holidays to all!

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks on both accounts.


    Washington, DC: Re: Russian black bread

    I don't know if they have it, but there's a Russian deli type place across from the eastern market in Capital Hill. I'm not sure the name or the exact address though. Anybody?

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, it's Mishka's, I believe. And you can, I think, find some rather good dark pumpernickel imported (from NY or Canada as I recall). I'd forgotten. Thanks for helping my memory.


    Washington, DC: Re: Cuban food -- I haven't been there yet, but I was supposed to have dinner last night at Havana Breeze (14th & I, near DC Coast), which was reviewed in the Post's First Bite section recently. Based on the menu my husband picked up, they definitely have yuca (baked and fried) and ropa vieja, among other authentic dishes. Can't wait to try it.

    Phyllis Richman: I haven't tried the yuca or ropa vieja there, but the few things I did try - including a Cubano sandwich - dashed my hopes for great Cuban food walking distance from my office. I'll try again if anyone out there has had an encouraging experience.


    Laurel, MD: Hi Phyllis,
    I'm curious to know if you have ever eaten an authentic Jerry's sub of long ago. My Uncle really loved them and tried to make one when he was stationed in Viet Nam. The real Jerry used only the best cold-cuts sliced real thin, along with fresh onions and green peppers...and the hot peppers were really "HOT"!! Also the bread was really great. It was always busy!!
    Then Jerry sold his name, and the cold cut is not the same.
    I would really be interested if anyone out there knows a "REAL" sub place. The old Jerry's was on University blvd near Wheaton Plaza!!

    Phyllis Richman: Yes, I remember the old Jerry's subs. Now I think Jerry's sandwiches are but a dreary shadow of what they once were. Let's hear about some great subs from some of you out there. If there's not time this week, chime in on the 31st when I'll be back for the next chat line.

    Which reminds me: There will be no chat line next Thursday, Christmas eve. But we'll talk again on the 31st.


    New York City, NY: While you're in Coney Island, go over to Mrs. Stahl's Knishes in Brighton Beach. The best in the world! Try the cabbage or the cheese & onion. (This is for desert after you've had a Nathan's hot dog, of course).

    Phyllis Richman: Well, I must admit, before we have our restaurant feast, we make a walking-and-snacking tour of the area: Nathan's hot dogs, Mrs. Stahl's fine knishes, a glass of kvass on the street and whatever else strikes our fancy and our appetite. And afterwards we prowl through the extraordinary Russian supermarkets and stock up on smoked fish, caviar, etc., for New Years.


    D.C.: We miss Germaine's, both the food and the soothing atmosphere. Any suggestions as to a Pan-Asian in the NW area which we might explore as a substitute?

    Phyllis Richman: It is indeed sad that Germaine's is gone. Germaine Swanson taught us a lot about fine Asian cooking. I like Pan Asian Noodles and Grill - a much simpler sort of place, I admit - especially for its drunken noodles. Oodles Noodles has some very good dishes, especially its grilled-chicken soup.
    And there are ever more.


    Arlington,VA: Great Subs.

    Try the Italian Store on Spout Run in Arlington,also Lost Dog
    Cafe in Arlington.

    Phyllis Richman: I've heard good things about Lost Dog Cafe, and years ago had a great sub at the Italian Store. Thanks.


    Alexandria, VA: I haven't been there in a long time, so this may not be true any more, but the best subs I know came from Good Guys at Glen Echo, MD. They also had the best fries in the world.

    Phyllis Richman: Thanks....and more:


    Vienna, Virginia: For the question about Subs...Try Bozelli Brothers Deli in Springfield or Lorton VA. Excellent subs!

    Phyllis Richman: And more thanks.


    Ashburn, VA: For a tasty sub, the Herndon Deli is the place to go!

    Phyllis Richman: More thanks.


    Arlington VA: As to the cooking classes - Phyllis Frucht of What's Cooking offers one-session cooking classes in her home on S Street NW in Dupont. They are $40 each, and each has a theme (french vegetarian, food from a particular movie, etc). It's fun, informal and always great food. You can get her number from directory assistance.

    Phyllis Richman: Few people know more about cooking than Phyllis Frucht. I would highly recommend any classes she taught.

    And now it's time to wind up here. I need to go find a good sub.

    I wish you all a happy and delicious holiday. After a week off, I'll be back here on the 31st, eager to hear about your New Years Eve plans.


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