By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

San Francisco, CA: Ms. Richman,

Hope you enjoyed your visit to California last week. Let me say I enjoy the weekly visit to DC restaurants (which allows me to revisit my old neighborhoods from grad school days). My question is: anything new or interesting on the restaurant scene in the Bay Area/Napa Valley?

Phyllis Richman: Hello, everybody. Another glorious D.C. Thursday afternoon. I'm back from California, but not for long. Next week there will be no chatline because I'm off to an extraordinary food show in Italy. After that, I promise a steady string of chatlines (except Thanksgiving, of course).

As for Napa Valley, a lot is happening. Ken Frank has opened La Toque, and while this very adventurous chef is serving fairly tame (for him) food at the moment, it shows promise. Quite good, not yet wonderful. Also, Thomas Keller, the ever-more amazing chef of The French Laundry (where I had a meal as great as any in my life) has opened a bistro named Boucon. But he's not cooking there, and while it's a charmer, the food and service are having severe startup problems. It needs time. On the other hand, Bistro Jeanty has had time, and it is serving some heart-warming really French bistro food (don't miss the tongue salad).

And the whole valley smells of grapes.

washington, D.C.: What ever happened to Duke Zeberts resturant?

Phyllis Richman: Duke Zeibert's had a long, great run in DC, but eventually ran out of steam. It's closed, replaced by Morton's (which has much better food than Duke's ever had, but not the character).

New York, NY: Phyllis - I was recently on a flight to Florida and read an article in the inflight magazine about restaurant critics. You and Ruth Reichl were quoted throughout the article about competition and the kind of service you receive at restaurants. Can you expand on that, about what happens when a reviewer enters a restaurant and any funny things that have happened to you?

Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: I also saw that article, and thought the author, Kim Zetter, did a good job. When restaurants spot a critic, some go crazy and overwhem her/him with service, grow obsequious (have you ever had your rice replaced three times in a Chinese restaurant) and even, in their nervousness, become inept. Many handle it more calmly, fairly routinely. If you want to read a lot on this subject, there's a new book called DINING OUT by Dornenberg and Page. They interviewed in depth many critics and have done an impressive job on this.

There are countless anecdotes, which is why I've started writing mystery novels and Ruth Reichl has written TENDER AT THE BONE and is working on a followup book. Too much for one posting, but I'll try to sprinkle anecdote in here from time to time.

Richmond, Virginia: Ms Richman,
Ancient history, yes, but I thoroughly enjoyed your piece on The Antiques Roadshow and was so glad you made it to our Sally Bell's. Sushi Ko is a never miss on our trips to DC so we were happy to find the food as outstanding as ever and thought your review was excellent. However, we were very dissapointed in the new bleak interior; we liked the former warm wood and the traditional Kimona clad waitresses. I was incredulous when Chef Jimmy Sneed, of our Frog&Redneck(so sorry you wasted your time there)said he felt that the interior of a restaurant was just as important as the food but did feel that the extreme minimalist look and the generic American waitstaff now at Sushi Ko detracted from our enjoyment. Any thoughts?

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. Richmond was fun, and merits more time. As for Sushi-Ko's decor, I agree with you. I was disconcerted to find it so gray and drab, with unfinished edges to the tables and a bare--not spare--look to the dining room. I'm sure it was intentional and that it fit the management's aesthetic, but it didn't charm me. Thank goodness the food did.The waitstaff were excellent, as far as I could tell from watching and listeniing (since they recognized me after one visit, I couldn't judge by my service).

Mt. Pleasant, DC: Is there a reason why you don't use a star or other rating system to designate the quality of the restaurants you review?

Phyllis Richman: Yes, yes, there is a reason I don't use a star system. I think it is misleading, and assigns definite and fine distinctions to vague and complex material. How can you compare the best French rstaurant to the best Ethiopian? And should the best pizza in town get a greater or lesser ranking than that fine French restaurant? What if a restaurant serves the best pizza in the country, but everything else is dreary? And what about a restaurant that is great sometimes, but not good others? I foiught hard to drop the star system when I started at the Post, and from what I've been able to gather, the readers ultimately appreciated the greater honesty of not assigning stars.

Whew. Got that off my chest.

McLean, VA: Do you plan on publishing an updated edition to your Dining Out guide to keep up with the changing restaurant scene?

Phyllis Richman: Glad you asked. It will be out by the beginning of December.

Washington, DC: Hi Phyllis,
I love your column and look forward to this chat every Thursday! Last chat, there was a discussion about Korean food - kimchi. I just wanted to say that there's a real good Korean restaurant (I should know, I'm Korean-American) called Han Sung Oak, 6341 Columbia Pike in Annandale. They have really good kimchi and BBQ meat cooked right on your table. Now Phyllis, why is it that you only name Hee Been as your favorite when there are dozens of Korean restaurants in this area? Is it because you think that place is the best, or is it because you haven't tried that many Korean restaurants? Just out of curiousity...because I know for a fact, from reading Korean restaurants ads, there are so many of them around in VA and MD (just not in DC). Other than that, keep up the good work and I am definitely buying your new book!!

Phyllis Richman: There are astonishingly many Korean restaurants here nowadays, and I can't keep up with all of them. I have visited more than Hee Been (another one will appear in the magazine in a few weeks), but I haven't found any other that has been as across-the-board good. There may be, but I just haven't gotten to all of them yet. Thanks for your suggestions.

Arlington,VA: Phyllis,

My partner and I eat out in the greater DC area often and find the service in DC much worse than in VA. Is it us or do you believe there is a difference?

Phyllis Richman: I haven't noticed a consistent difference. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

native virginian: have you been to Plumpjack's in San Fran? if so, what do you think of it?

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there, but while I was in Napa Valley, some other food writers were praising it.

In L. A. I tried a new French restaurant, Lavande, whose chef was at Citrus. He's clearly an excellent chef, but given the expense, I woiuldn't put it at the top of my list. It's new, though, and needs to settle in more before I'd be sure of my ground.

DC: Phyl:

what did les halles do to lose your approbation?

Joost

Phyllis Richman: It started serving tired, ineptly cooked food, and tolerates inept and clumsy servers. I used to love this restaurant, but nearly every dish I've tried in the past year has been dismal, sometimes old as well as badly cooked.

Washington, D.C.: Have you ever walked out of a restaurant because the food or service were so bad? (Theater critics supposedly do it, I thought you might too).

Phyllis Richman: When I am reviewing a restaurant, I can't walk out. But if I decide it is not worthwhile or necessary for me to review it, I will walk out. Not often.

Washington, D.C.: On your advice (in the Post magazine 50 favorites article), I tried Caravan Grill on 18th Street last week after walking by it a million times. It was absolutely wonderful, and proabably the best bargain I've ever gotten in this city. What a find! (By the way I do NOT work for the resaturant.)

Phyllis Richman: Glad to hear another voice on the subject.

DC: While I was pleased that you found an Iranian restaurant to be worthy of recognition on your 50 best restaurants list, I was puzzled at your choice of Caravan Grill. I am Iranian, and though I haven't tried many of the restaurants in the burbs, I have found Caravan disappointing on every visit (I've given three chances). Frankly, I think Moby Dick is fantastic. The kabobs are juicy and flavorful, and the rice is fluffy and aromatic. Not to mention that as far as value, a meal for one is closer to a meal for two.

What are your thoughts on Moby Dick?

Phyllis Richman: And here's another voice on the subject. I like Moby Dick, especially its made-to-order bread. But while there are many good kabob restaurants, there is none other like Caravan Grill. Maybe Moby Dick serves better kabobs, but it doesn't offer that interesting variety that Caravan has (and above all, CAravan's buffet is an amazing bargain even if dish by dish it's not splendid).

bethesda: Do you answer all questions that are submitted or do you only selectively answer the ones you find of interest ?

Phyllis Richman: Oh, thank you for asking this question. Unfortunately, I can only answer a small proportion of the questions. I get up to 150 each Thursday, and have time to answer only about 30-40. I try to pick more universal ones, and am less likely to answer one asking for a specific restaurant recommendation--for example, where to go for an anniversary or what restaurants to visit on a trip to DC. Those answers can be found by spending a few minutes searching the Style Live site on washingtonpost.com.

Chevy Chase, MD: What do you consider your role as a reviewer? Is it purely informative? I heard a theater critic once say that he tries to promote standards. Do you see yourself in any such role?

Phyllis Richman: I hope that is a byproduct of what I do. I don't directly try to promote standards, but do by way of praising what I think worthwhile in a particular restaurant. I hope by steering diners to restaurants that put effort into their quality, that will ultimately improve the standards of dining here. But really, it's only the public that can reward, thereby encourage, high standards.

Alexandria, VA.: Welcome back. I didn't know what to do with my lunch hour last week.

What is the single most important factor, to you, in judging a restaurant? It seems not to be quality of food, because you keep mentioning places that you say have great food but that are too expensive to make it worthwhile.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I hope you had a good lunch without me.

To me, food is of paramount importance. But value is right up there. A truly great kitchen is great at any price, but a lesser one is inevitably measured against its competitors at that price range--at least that's the way I see it. Why dine at a pretty good restaurant when the price is as high as at the top ones?

Ambiance, service--many things are factors. But without good food, I think a restaurant doesn't deserve accolades.

Vienna VA: Do you have to submit the question while the online chat is in progress? I submitted one at 1:00 AM this morning. Will that be considered for inclusion in this session?

Phyllis Richman: All questions, even those submitted ahead, are considered.

Vienna, VA: A lot of suburbanites I know (myself included) shy away from eating in DC because we have no idea where to park in some parts of town, or whether to take the Metro instead. We're missing out on some wonderful dining. Are there any published works you know of that provide a "parking/transportation" guide to the various "eating" parts of town?

Phyllis Richman: That's a good idea. My dining book will list nearby Metro stations and what kind parking is available, so maybe that will help. I think Metro is an excellent option. When I dine in Bethesda, I always take Metro, since parking is difficult there and the Metro is faster.

Takoma Park, MD: Regarding the question on DC v. VA service, I find the service in DC restaurants in most cases much more polished than in N. VA restaurants. Of course, it depends on what you're looking for. I want a server who can talk about wine and speak honestly about the ingredients in the dishes, not one that can merely chew the fat. I've had some uninformed wine recommendations in N. VA restaurants, while I find DC sommeliers and servers for the most part bright and savvy.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for adding to the discussion.

Washington, D.C.: Dear Phyllis,

My boyfriend Mel and I are in search of the perfect steak in this area. We have tried all of the usual haunts - Ruth Chris and Mortons but we would like to find a restaurant that will top those two. My boyfriend told me about a certain type of beef from Japan called Kobe (?) Beef. Are you familiar with it? Does any restaurant in D.C. carry this type/brand of steak?

Sincerely,

Mary

P.S. We love your column and missed you last week.

Phyllis Richman: I don't know any better steak in town than Morton's (Ruth's Chris doesn't make it, in my opinion). Some restaurants are serving Summerfield Farm beef, which is excellent. And the Inn at Little Washington has had Kobe beef on its restaurant. But it is American Kobe beef,not Japanese-bred (though similarly raised, I expect.).

Washington DC: If you had to choose between the Old Angler's Inn and the Inn at Little Washington, which restaurant would you pick based on price/quality
relation ?

Phyllis Richman: No contest. The Inn was in my 50 Favorites list, Old Anglers' was not.

DC: FYI-
Next time you go to Caravan Grill, make sure you ask them for some tah deeg. Literally translated, it's the bottom of the pot, and it's the best part of the rice because it's crispy and the part that everyone fights for over the dinner table. Restaurants don't offer it on their menus, but take my word for it, it's great. My American husband is hooked on the stuff and freaks out the servers at restaurants when he asks for it (but then they smile). Asking for the tahdeeg shows that you are a real pro.

Enjoy!

Phyllis Richman: Good suggestion. It is indeed a wonderful tidbit to seek from rice cooked Persian-style.

DC: HELLO!
THIS IS ROBERTO DONNA AND I JUST SAW THE WHITE TRUFFLE NOTE IN YOUR QUESTION.MAKE SURE TO TELL PEOPLE THE BEST WAY TO EAT WHITE TRUFFLE IT IS THINLY SLICED AND ROW NOT COOKED BECAUSE IT LOOSE IT FLAVOR AND PLUS AT THE PRICE OF TODAY $1500.00 AT LB. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE EATING FRESH WHITE TRUFFLE AND NOT CANNED. THANK YOU.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks, Roberto. Good point. It would be a shame to spend so much on truffles and then have them ruined. The proper way to use Italian (white) truffles is to have them shaved onto the dish at the table, at the last minute. Unlike black (French) truffles, white truffles should never be cooked.

Bethesda, MD: Hi Phyllis: As a born and breed Washingtonian, what is the attraction to a restaurant when the service is bad, rude and sanitary conditions are not evident? The restaurant I refer to is a "political power" place - to be seen at - The Prime Rib. I do not understand why it constantly makes all sorts of "fine dining" lists. I do concede the food is good, not exceptional - but the cons so outway the food. The management as well as staff has a "holier than thou" attitude. I have not returned there since June, after experiencing Bill Carter's poor management techniques. Am I alone on this premise?

Phyllis Richman: This is a classic diners' problem. The Prime Rib has some excellent food--in particular, the roast beef and the crab imperial. But it is a restaurant that treats familiars very well and can be rude to strangers (since I am a stranger there, I can verify that first-hand). So how does one rate such a restaurant? I'd recommend it to those who already dine there and are known--but of course, they don't need my recommendation.

Westgate, IA : My daughter and son-in-law live in Arlington...when I visited DC this past year, they took me to Rio Grand Cafe, RT's, and Carlisle Grand Cafe. Very enjoyable food at all three places...if any of your readers come to Iowa, I recommend the best bratwurst this side of MIlwaukee at a Mississippi River beer and bratz place in McGregor, IA...six charcoal-grilled brats on a potato roll for $7.25

Phyllis Richman: Do they mail-order?

ARLINGTON, VA: Hi Phyllis,

No question, but want a solution for the dirth of central Euapean restaurants in the Washington Metro Area?.....visit Cedar Rapids, Iowa's Czech Village and dine at Zindricks. Great traditional Bohemian cuisine...the best dish is excellent czech goulash (made correctly with pork and beef) with potato dumplings, washed down with a draft Pilsner Urquell...also try the grilled liver sausage (jiternice?).... they even make great homemade apple sauce. No entrees are over $11.95 ..ten minutes from Cedar Rapids airport.

Phyllis Richman: What airlines fly to Cedar Rapids, and what time do they leave?

Washington, DC: I would appreiate your thoughts about the best place for Indonesian cuisine; also, do you think there is any hope for Lespinasse? Thanks

Phyllis Richman: I can't say we have an outstanding Indonesian restaurant, and I haven't been to Sarinah for a long time, but I thought it was good. As for Lespinasse, the new chef seems extremely promising.

washington, DC: Welcome back. Do you also sometimes review coffeshops, bars that serve little food comparing to restaurants, but you may feel are worth checking out?

Phyllis Richman: I review any kind of restaurant: big, small, fancy, plain, with menus that are extensive or limited. But I don't necessarily write about them unless they are interesting enough for a whole column or have some feature that would be appropriate as a Turning Tables item. But if you have any suggestions, please send them.

Washington: Now I understand why you and Gourmet Magazine find Obelisk to be such a treasure. Last week some out of town friends took my husband & I there for dinner. Every dish was sumptuous. When it came time for dessert, we had such a difficult time choosing (there were four of us and six or seven choices). We asked our server if there some why to get a sampler plate for us all to share. Boy what a sampler she brought. Every dessert choice was brought to our table in full servings for us to indulge in! We rolled out of the restaurant we were so full. But we will return again and again!

Phyllis Richman: Yup, I agree.

Washington, D.C.: Hi Phyllis--

I'm in search of a true English pub here in DC--one with classic English pub fare (meat pies etc..) and a bar menu to match. Any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: This is a question that comes up nearly every week. Just shows there's a need. The new Irish restaurant on Seventh St., Fado, has meat pies and such, and they're not bad.

Annandale, VA: Vietnamese Beef Soup "Pho" has become very popular to American crowd in the past recent years. What is your perspective to why American like this so much?

Phyllis Richman: That's easy. It is a great soup: deeply flavored, complex, satisfying, nutritious, low in fat, generally a great bargain. It tastes wonderful and can be adapted to individual tastes at the table with lemon, mint, hot sauce, chiles, etc.

Boston, MA: Phyllis, With Jean-Louis gone, what our your thoughts on the strongest classical French cuisine in the city?
(I am a former resident who missed the variety DC restaurants offer so!)

Phyllis Richman: I'll have a better answer for you in a couple of months (but keep in mind, Jean-Louis served modern, not classical cuisine). As of now, Michel Richard at Citronelle is the most impressive French chef in town.

Washington, DC: My beau and I have recently gotten into wine in a Big Way. I was wondering what public-transit-accessible restaurants have, in your opinion, the best wine lists? Extra points for a list that includes lower-priced wines.

Thanks!!!

Phyllis Richman: Some of the new restaurants are making a real effort to upgrade wine lists and keep the prices reasonable. Look at the wine list at bis, the new bistro on Capitol Hill, for example.

Washington, D.C.: I recently charged a restaurant meal to my debit card and was shocked that the transaction posted for $5 more than I signed for. Obviously, the charge slip had been altered. My bank said that unfortunately, this happens often at restaurants. What would you do? I want to bring it to the restaurant's attention, but hesitate because I wouldn't want to accuse anyone unfairly. Your opinion would be much appreciated!!

Phyllis Richman: Absolutely call the restaurant. You are doing the owner a favor by doing so. This is not often done, but it does happen. In fact, it is a big part of the plot of my next murder mystery (no, nobody was murdered over a $5 overcharge). But some unscrupulous waiters take advantage and their management never find out unless customers bring it to their attention.

On that note, I'm off to lunch and next week to Italy. Dine well in the meantime, and I hope you'll show up again in two weeks, when I'm bound to have tales of prosciutto, parmesan and pasta.

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