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  Phyllis Richman – Live!
Hosted by Phyllis Richman
Washington Post Staff Writer

Thursday, September 24, 1998

menu
By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com
Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

dingbat






Washington, DC: Phyllis: I was so exited to hear that the new Goldoni's was open on 20th Street...however, as I type this, they are still painting the interior. A peak inside suggests that they may not be open for several weeks, at best. I'm still exited, though, since I work in the same building..and thanks for your weekly on-line chats. They're great!!!

Phyllis Richman: Good afternoon, everybody. Another gorgeous dining-outdoors kind of Thursday, and here we are at out computers.

Speaking of computers, I've spent the entire morning struggling with mine. It's doing what it should at the moment, but if it crashes, I apologize and will do what I can to finish this chat.

Yes, Goldoni, too, has been having technical problems. The owner says he'll be opening at the end of the month...he hopes.


Bethesda, MD: A few weeks ago on this live chat, someone mentioned that two women eating together often receive poor service. It opened my eyes, a week later my older sister and I (we're both in our 20s) ate at Cesco Trattoria and had TERRIBLE service. The waiters were rude and it took 2+ hours to finish our meal. We enjoy good food, and save up from our tiny salaries to eat well once a month or as often as we can afford. I had looked forward to this dinner for a long time since it had received a good review from you. We gave our waiter a small tip and wrote a note indicating our displeasure. Does this seem to be an ongoing trend?

Phyllis Richman: Often when people complain that they've had terrible service at a restaurant because they belong to a minority group, I remind them that everyone at that restaurant seems to get terrible service. While that isn't exactly true of Cesco, it is a restaurant that has frequent glitches in its service. So I think your bad experience was probably not because you're women. And yes, the tip should reflect your satisfaction or dissatisfaction with the service (though the time lag is probably due to the kitchen, the rudeness is the waiter's problem).


Burke, VA: Can you recommend any restaurants that are sensitive to people who have food allergies? For example, our son is allergic to milk and egg. He can eat chicken but not if it's prepared with milk and egg, nor if it's cooked in pans that may be contaiminated.

Phyllis Richman: This is a difficult problem for diners and for restaurateurs. The restaurant might be sympathetic but unable to accommodate (e.g., might not be able to identify which pans have been contaminated). My best advice is to call the restaurant ahead and explain your problem (and be prepared for some restaurants not being good at communicating the problem from the front desk to the kitchen). Then, when you find a restaurant that works for you, give it all your loyalty and broadcast your success to others with allergy problems.


Takoma Park, MD: Where do you take an out of town guest who has seen everything, been everywhere, done everything? I thought I had my friend stumped with Burmese food, but to no avail. Thanks for your great reviews.

Phyllis Richman: Not many cities have Ethiopian, Afghan, Laotian, Cambodian or Peruvian restaurants. Try those.


Rockville, Maryland: Earlier this year, I enjoyed one of the most decadent meals I've ever had (rivaled only by the late Lion D'Or) at Lespinasse. From the suprisingly personable waitstaff right down to the sauce spoons, it was a wonderful (albeit indulgent) experience. Do you or anyone else have any feedback on how the "new and improved" restaurant shapes up?

Thanks! - Ara

Phyllis Richman: Lespinasse has just reopened, with a chef from a one-star restaurant in FRance and who's worked with the top chefs in France. He's developing his own menu (and undoubtedly trying to get used to our salt, butter, flour, etc.). So I'd wait until at least October to see what he can do.


Newport News, VA: In a brief trip to Paris I discovered that one could linger over a three or four course meal, eat most or all of what was served and not come away over full.

In the U.S. it seems that restaurants strive to serve portions that are virtually impossible to eat. Why is this? Are there places closer than Paris where this is not so?

I can ask for food to be boxed up as well as the next person but it would also be nice not to be presented with enough food to last me for two days--just as a main course.

Phyllis Richman: Americans seem to be divided into two camps: those who want more (quantity) for their money, and those who are offended by large portions. There is an adage here, however, that the more you pay, the smaller the portions.

Restaurateurs are stuck in the middle. They get complaints from both sides of this question. If they cut portions to charm you, they lose customers who think they're being cheap.

An ongoing dilemma.


Germantown, MD: Just a note of agreement. I've enjoyed great meals at Cesco Trattoria in large and small mixed groups and the service staff has always been luke-warm. I now take this into consideration when going out to eat. There are too many good restaurants in the DC area to spend $60+ for a meal and not enjoy the dining experience.

Phyllis Richman: I think the service is more variable than you're indicating here. I do hear complaints about unconcerned service. But I also hear about--and observe--enthusiastic service. I'd say that if you like the food and the place, you should discuss the problem with the host or hostess when you make your reservation of when you arrive. Don't wait until it's too late for them to do something about it.


Takoma Park, MD: Where might a find a Laotian restaurant in the DC area? That sounds intriguing. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Oops. There has been a Laotian restaurant in Virginia--Falls Church or Fairfax, as I recall. But now I can't think of the name. Can anyone out there help me?


Reston, VA: I've never read a bad review of the Inn at Little Washington, but our experience there wasn't particularly good...neither the food nor the atmosphere were remarkable. Did we just hit a bad night, or are reviewers unwilling/unable to see a flaw in once a restaurant's reputation is built up?

Phyllis Richman: There are flaws in any restaurant, and I have had a dish here or there at the Inn at Little WAshington that I have found dull or unexciting (at those prices I expect nothing less than thrilling). I've mentioned those in print on occasion (I particularly don't like the sweet pecan sauce--on the lamb, as I recall--but others love it). And I would almost always prefer to substitute extra appetizers for the entrees there--and do sometimes. The point is, that at a restaurant that wonderful and accommodating, if there is something that doesn't delight you, you should immediately tell your waiter and let him or her find you a substitution.

No, critics are not afraid to criticize and icon. But every diner has his or her own taste, and the best restaurant in the world would leave some people cold, just because it's not to their particular taste.


Newport News, VA: Is Laotion much different from Thai?

Phyllis Richman: As I recall, Laotian was more like Vietnamese.


Downtown DCP: Phyllis:

Missed last weeks chat, and gald I did. Wow, some angry folks out there. Anyway, BET restaurant. Found the food *very* good but bit over priced, though not as bad as Nora. What bothered me, however, was the TV. What is a supposed fine dining establishment doing with a GIANT screen TV that dominants the room? Made me think sports bar. As for music DC has 2 rooms to hear jazz and this is NOT one of them. So what do you think of the TV thing?

Phyllis Richman: While I'm not ordinarily a fan of watching TV while I dine, I think it is an integral part of BET on Jazz, and it works there. It's so big and the place is so splashy, it seems part of the point. The best thing about it, though, is that the sound is muted enough that it doesn't disrupt conversation.


Reston VA: The Laotian Restaurant is Bangkok-vientiane in Falls Church. Their number is (703) 534-0095

Phyllis Richman: Thank you, thank you. What a savvy group of chatters you are.


Washington, DC: For the person who asked about dining out with food allergies,I've had the best luck at restaraunts that already cater to diners with a limited diet, like kosher or vegetarian restaraunts. They tend to be more aware of their pots and pans, and more open to requests about ingredients being left out or substituted.

Phyllis Richman: Excellent idea. And now that there are so many Indian vegetarian restaurants (particularly around Langley Park), it is easy to find one that can accommodate.


Arlington, Va: In your estimation what is the best authentic Mexican restaurant in the metro area?

Phyllis Richman: Is there any? Cielito Lindo is about the only authentic Mexican restaurant I can think of. Well, Enriqueta's, too, more or less.


Springfield, VA: Hello, Ms. Richman!

The metro area has many Italian restaurants; however, they all seem to be Southern Italian. Are there any plans to open a Northern Italian restaurant in this area sometime in the near future? I'm a big fan of risotto, and it is a trying task to find a good, flavorful one in this area. Any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: Oh, my goodness, this area is packed with Northern Italian restaurants, and risotto flows like lava after a volcanic eruption. Just click on the Italian category in Style Live after you've finished here.


Washington, DC: Last week someone asked why the Post would want to pay you to go eat at a Restaurant. I know I appreciate your reviews -- when a dinner is expensive -- it's nice to know what to expect.

Now for my question -- I hve just purchased a condominium which is going to be built at 12th and U, near the Lincoln Theater. Which restaurants should I try in the neighborhood?

Phyllis Richman: Thanks. I'll pass that along to the management here.

Now, as to your question: First, I'm delighted to hear abouit a new condo at 12th and U. It's a wonderful neighborhood, and a lot is happening there. I recently tried Chi Cha Lounge. If you have young eardrums, used to hearing music at top volume, and you didn't really want to talk anyway, it's a great place to try. You sit around on sofas, with low tables. All quite casual and comfy. You order tapas-size portions of interesting nouvelle Peruvian food. Ceviche on little pastry rounds, potato patties stuffed with cheese...awfully pleasant little snacks. It's reasonably priced, and the servers are extremely nice.

Then there are: Coppi's, Republic GArdens, Polly's CAfe, and more restaurants on U St. and on 14th a string of new places such as Eleventh Hour.

Enjoy your new neighborhood. I do.


springfield virginia: phyllisi must first start out by saying i love you you are the queen. i am half peruvian and i love peruvian food would you name a good restaurant that is in the virginia area.
thank you,
cheren valdivia

Phyllis Richman: Hey, thanks. In addition to the Chi Cha Lounge on U St., there are a couple of Peruvian restaurants along Rte. 50 or Arlington Blvd. AGain, I'm forgetting the name of the one I liked. Starts with a C. Any help out there?


Washington, DC: Being from Baltimore originally, I was spoiled with a huge selection of great "dives" neighborhood bars and restaurants full of local color, inexpensive beers and great bar food. I've been hard pressed to find many in the area. I've been drawn to the Tune Inn and even Au Pied du Couchon qualifies. Any other suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: As somebody mentioned here weeks ago, there's Casa Juanita on 11th St. near the Convention Center. For the largest selection of beer, maybe in the world, and some good burgers, check out the Brickskeller (though it's not cheap). A favorite near the Post, on M St., is Stoney's. I could go on. . .


Arlington, VA: This is a rather pedestrian request, but do you know of a good place to get authentic fish and chips in the area?

Phyllis Richman: Hardly pedestrian. In fact, I haven't found good fish & chips here, though I'd check out Kinkead's downstairs lounge and Legal Seafood before giving up.


Gaithersburg, MD: Would you ever consider eating at McDonald's?

Phyllis Richman: Is that an invitation?


Arlington, VA: re: Peruvian restaurants, are you referring to Cuzco?

Phyllis Richman: Oh, yes. Thank you. What a great resource you all are.

Cuzco was quite good the last time I was there.


Washington DC: Yesterday I noticed four new restaurants/cafes on 18th Stret in Adams Morgan: a cafe called Tryst, and three restaurants called, Pearl Lounge, 18th & U, and I believe 18th Street Cafe. Have you heard anything about any of them?

Phyllis Richman: I've also notice that Adams Morgan is blossoming with new restaurants. There's also Jyoti, an Indian restaurant with--it says--the chef from Bombay Bistro.And there's a new Ghanean restaurant.

These restaurants are too new for me to review, but I'd be glad to hear the feedback of any of you who try them. I'll get to them eventually.


Fairfax, VA: I just recently moved here and it seems crabcakes are on every menu I see. I'm almost embaressed to ask, but can you tell me exactly what a crabcake is and what they taste like?

Phyllis Richman: I'd love to.

A crab cake, at least around here, is crab meat--backfin, if it's a top-quality one--lightly bound with a little mayonnaise and just a tiny bit of bread or cracker crumbs to help it adhere. It's seasoned lightly with something like Old Bay seasoning, maybe a little red and black pepper, sometimes bell peppper. It's formed into a large patty like a hamburger, and either broiled or rolled in bread crumbs and pan-fried. It should be crusty and creamy and taste mostly of fresh, sweet crab meat. It's a great dish.


Washington, DC: How much do you spend a week on dining out? Outside of assignments, that is.

Phyllis Richman: I hardly ever dine out except when I am on assignment. That's because after dining out so often, it's a relief to eat at home. Sometimes I like a quick and casual meal (eg at the bars mentioned above) or a carryout meal. Last night it was at Crisp & Juicy, that terrific rotisserie chicken carryout. Bu tsince I spend so much time in restaurants, I like the contrast of eating in my own kitchen or dining room.


washington dc: Do you really think that Obelisk is the best italian restaurant in D.C ?

Phyllis Richman: I don't know one better.


Arlington, VA: Are there any English pubs or restaurants in the area?

Phyllis Richman: I don't think so, only Irish ones.


Washington, DC: I've seen few if any reviews of La Brasserie since Gaby and Raymond left. How do you judge it?

Phyllis Richman: I judge it sadly. Gaby Aubouin is out of the restaurant business. Raymond, the maitre d', now has a restaurant called La Cote d'Or in Arlington.


D.C.: Just wanted to add to your praise of Chi Cha. I'm a devoted fan. One word of advice: go for happy hour on the weekdays. Unfortunately, it way too crowded on the weekends. (And the weekend crowd is too hip for it's own good!)

Phyllis Richman: You said it.


bethesda md: why do restaurants seat a
retired interracial couple
at the worst table in the house? we are well dressed and this happens all the time.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't seen or heard of this happening, but I'm sorry if you've had to put up with such outrageous treatment. Have you tried asking for another table? I'd be curious about what happens then.


washington, d.c. : hi phyllis. you mentioned crisp & juicy rotisserie...never heard of it. how does it compare to chicken out?

Phyllis Richman: Crisp & Juicy is a Latin-American rotisserie on Lee Highway in Va., and, I think, on Georgia Ave. in Md. The chicken is veryi garlicky and juiciy (though not crisp by the time I get it home). I think it's terrific. Much better than any Chicken Out I've tried.


Rockville, MD: I love your sense of humor!

During a visit to California, I noticed a lot of restaurants were classified under "New American" or "American/Mediterranean". There was one particular one in San Francisco, Plumpjack Cafe, and I was wondering if DC had any restaurants like those.

Phyllis Richman: Why, thanks.

As for New American, that's most of what's opening nowadays. American/Mediterranean is pretty similar at the moment, since that kind of food is so popular. Look through the reviews of American restaurants on this website and you'll find that the contemporary ones are much like you found in California.


washington dc: So,what makes Obelisk a better Italian restaurant than Galileo or I Ricchi or Goldoni?

Phyllis Richman: They're all good restaurants. What I like about Obelisk is its purity. Since it does only few dishes, it does them all exquisitely, and usually very simply. It serves only seasonal foods, and has a drive for perfection that a restaurant with a large menu can rarely attain. It also makes the best restaurant-baked bread I know.

   
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