By Elisa Nader/washingtonpost.com

Washington Post food critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Internet – live on Style Live!

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

If you missed out in today's chat you can either join us next week or post your thoughts in our ongoing discussion area which Phyllis visits periodically.

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's chat.

Washington, DC: You've mentioned in previous columns that you often eat simple meals when you eat at home -- but you haven't told us whether you enjoy cooking yourself. Do you like cooking or are you content to let someone else master the kitchen?

Phyllis Richman: Hello, everyone.

Funny you should ask about my cooking. Today I'm home all day cooking for a weekend in a Pennsylvania farmhouse with all my kids and their s.o.'s. I don't get to do this very often, but find it immensely satisfying (though the pie dough got too warm and fell apart as I was fitting it in the pan this a.m.). I'm making my mother's legendary coconut cake brulee (the recipe of which will be in my next food mystery, next spring) and a peach-blackberry pie and some pecan cookies. Also herring-beet-potato salad, crab cakes, mango and black bean salad with fresh shrimp, grilled wild rockfish, roast chicken with lemon pasta. And plenty of corn picked at the next farm, along with whatever fruits and vegetables we find at roadside stands. I'm bringing some smoked salmon from Oregon and have some organic eggs from the Dupont Circle farmers' market. They'll be used to make fried matzo for breakfast one morning. Maybe eggs and local sausage for an ecumenical balance the next morning.

Ah, yes, I do love to cook.

Washington, D.C.: Hi Phyllis--

As a new resident of DC, I have heard conflicting reports about the Iron Gate Inn Restaurant on N Street. Some accounts claim that it is overpriced and that the food is not all that spectacular, while others rave about the atmosphere and the cuisine. I am expecting company next weekend and I wanted to know what your opinion on the food was.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there for quite a while, mainly because I've never found the food worthy of the setting. On the other hand, the garden is a lovely place to dine. So if you're going for atmosphere and ordering simply, it's probably a good choice.

Chevy Chase, MD: Phyllis:

Pretend I'm a real estate developer and I want to open up a D.C.-based branch of the best restaurant, gourmet food shop and supermarket in the U.S. which is not already represented here. Which would you choose in each category?

Phyllis Richman: The restaurant: Import The French Laundry from Napa Valley or persuade Jean-Georges Vongerichten to immigrate from NY to open here.

The food shop: Maybe Zabar's.

The supermarket: One of the Japanese supermarkets in Seattle.

That's today. Another day I might be in a different mood and wish for others.

Arlington, VA: My boyfriend and I are going to Richmond, VA for a day trip this weekend. We're picnicking on Brown's Island for lunch, but we'd like to sample to local fare for dinner. Any ideas?

Phyllis Richman: Handy question. I was going to ask it myself. I'm going to Richmond soon, and would like some suggestions from any of you familiar with that city. You can email me (richmanp@twp.com) and I'll share the results next week if I get any.

fairfax, va: I've recently moved from Miami to Northern Virginia, and I'm homesick for good, authentic Cuban food. Any suggestions?

Phyllis Richman: There's not much to satisfy you here. La Cantinita in Arlington is ok (or has it changed its name?). There's a new Cuban restaurant downtown, on K St. between 14th and Vermont, but I haven't tried it yet. I think it's called Havana Breeze.

Arlington, Va: There have been times that I've had crabcakes (or cream of crab soup at Legal Seafoods) that have pieces of shell in them. Is that to be expected?

Phyllis Richman: Some joke that that's to show you that there's real crab in the crab cakes. No, there should not be shell in any crab dish. But I must admit there often is. It indicates some sloppiness in the kitchen.

Washington, D.C.: Dear Phyllis:
What is your favorite place to eat (restaurant, take-out shop, food stand) in the D.C. metropolitan area which, because of its relative obscurity, will never be the subject of one of your reviews (or anyone else's for that matter)?

Phyllis Richman: Any place that I find that I like, I share with readers. That's why I sometimes review a four-table hole-in-the-wall even though I worry that it can't handle more business than it has. I truly don't hold any "finds" back.

Arlington, VA: After reading the Washington Post food section a couple of weeks ago on the best crabs cakes in the area I made the trek to Broomes Island, Maryland to try out the number one crab cake. It was great. Eight ounces of lump crab meat!! The setting was very nice too. My husband and I decided that this place would be an annual pilgrimage for us! I also wanted to mention that I had the crabcake special at Clydes (Mark Center) last weekend and they were surprisingly good (as was the price).

Phyllis Richman: I absolutely agree about Broome's Island (Stoney's). I've also mentioned here before the crab cakes at the Narrows on Kent Island. Terrific. I can't vouch for Clyde's crab cakes.

Washington, DC: In reference to an earlier answer, in which you suggested Zabar's could open a shop in DC: I dunno... I think there are some things that are best experienced in New York.

How about a really good, authentic (i.e., one that serves nothing with pesto), *cheap* diner?

Phyllis Richman: I agree that Zabar's is not really translateable (sp?) to Washington. But I can dream, can't I?

We're also short on diners. There are the old TAstee Diners in a few suburbs--definitely authentic--but no other non-trendy ones I know. Luna Diner & Grill on Conn. Ave. kind of straddles the forms.

Alexandria, VA: Phyllis:

I used to love the French Market on Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown, which closed several years ago. I recall someone telling me it reopened somewhere in the 'burbs. Do you know if it's still around and if it's worth seeking out?

Phyllis Richman: The French Market is now in Chevy Chase, about a block west of Wisc. Ave. around Willoughby, I think. It hasn't the atmosphere of the old one, but last time I was there (admittedly a while ago), it was still very French.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis, I really enjoy your reviews and find you to usually be on target. However, your praise for the Sholl's Colonial Cafeteria has got to end. The food there has been simply horrendous, literally stomach turning. I'm all for keeping a neighborhood institution going, but this one needs some major rehauling. Restaurant question: Have you reviewed El Catalan? If so, what did you think?

Phyllis Richman: I halfway agree with your complaints about Sholl's. Its food is not what it was (salt would help). But a few things are. The chopped steak has a wonderful old-fashioned flavor, there are often good fresh vegetables, the puddings and custards are not only good, they are practically endangered species. And the doughnuts and biscuits in the morning are still homemade. The prices have remained rock-bottom, too. Until I find another cafeteria to take its place, I'll still return to Sholl's when I'm in a cafeteria mood.

reston, va: I went to a restuarant in Baltimore about a month ago, and when I visited the lades' room, it was so filthy, I had to walk right out. I reported this to the hostess, who nodded silently and then looked away. I then asked for a manager on duty and reported it to him. His response was that there was nothing he could do, and if I didn't like it, "Don't come back." I'm not sure what to do. Contact the Health Department, or try and contact the Restuarant's owners? The name is "Bay Cafe" on Boston Street in Baltimore's Inner Harbour.

Phyllis Richman: I've never heard of the restaurant. But I think it is worthwhile to first try to contact the owners, and if the are not responsive, call the health dept. and suggest it take a look.

Washington, DC: It's puzzling that there are really no decent sit-down restaurants east of the Anacostia River in DC. Are there any national chains -- a cut above Shoney's -- that might be persuaded to open in one of the many middle-class neighborhoods "east of the river?"

Phyllis Richman: That's a tough question. There have been some good restaurants - Chef's Table comes to mind - but I think the crime rate deters restaurateurs. It is a shame that entrepreneurs don't recognize the enormous potential of the neighborhood.

Montreal, QC: Bonjour. You said 'Ah, yes, I do love to cook.' What is for you la crème de la crème of cookbooks?

Phyllis Richman: I confess I have many, many cookbooks, so my favorites vary according to what catches my eye at the moment. I've long used the Settlement Cookbook and a few cookbooks put out by various women's clubs. Julia Child's books are still bibles to me. I like the original Silver Palate. More recently, I've cooked a lot from the Rogers and Gray cookbook (from London's River CAfe). That's where my lemon pasta comes from. I have a few favorite recipes from a book called BEAT THIS. Marcella Hazan's cookbooks can't be beat, or Maida Haetter's baking books. I also often refer to the old original Time-Life Foods of the World set. And on and on...

Arlington, VA: Since moving here from New York City, I've been on a quest for a great deli, not necessarily gourmet. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: Sorry, for that you've got to go back to NY. The Parkway Deli and the one around Democracy Blvd. and Old Georgetown Rd. are about as good as we have, but they can';t compare to NY's SEcond Avenue Deli, not by a long shot.

Landover, MD: Phyllis: I am interested in finding a restaurant that is known for its CRABS. I am willing to travel to the Eastern Shore if I have to go that far. My venue of choice will offer a CRAB feast, or ALL-You-Eat menu selection. Can you help?

Phyllis Richman: I can't tell you about all-you-can-eats, but you can't find better crabs or a more appropriate environment for eating them than at Pope's Creek, MD, where there are a couple of crab houses side by side: Robertson's and Capt Billy's.

Washington, DC: You mentioned the wonderful Japanese supermarkets in Seattle. I recently went wild at a cookware store there called Sur La Table. Is there anything comparable in this area?

Phyllis Richman: There sure is. Try La Cuisine in Alexandria.

Arlington, Va: Could you describe what truffles taste like? I haven't had the chance to try them yet and can't tell if I'd like them or not.

Phyllis Richman: What a wonderful question! I wish I could answer it well enough. All I can say is that they smell--and therefore taste--like earth gone to heaven. Imagine, perhaps, mushrooms that are distilled into their essense and then somehow made more earthy yet also milder. One of the magical qualities of truffles is that they heighten the taste of other foods. To try them on buttered noodles or in scrambled eggs is to taste the ultimate taste of noodles or eggs.

Don't think that canned truffles have any relation to fresh truffles (imagine canned chicken soup vs. your mother's, or canned asparagus vs. fresh). And keep in mind that there are two basic kinds of truffles: FRench (black) and Italian (white). They are also grown in this country, but they rarely have the flavor of European ones. Finally, a little truffle goes a long way.

GAITHERSBURG, MD: Is there a restaurant that offers long-neck fried clams..New England style...with the belly? Where can we buy long-neck clams?

Phyllis Richman: Kinkead's and Legal Sea Foods serve excellent New England style long-neck fried clams. You can also buy them at many fish markets--just ask for soft-shell clams.

Oakton, Va: Can you recommend any good homemade ice cream parlors?

Phyllis Richman: The Style Live site did a story on ice cream parlours last week--just click onto it.

VA Beach, VA: My husband and I are coming to DC over the Labor Day weekend. The Red Sage in DC was recommended to us by a friend. Is it as good as they say?

Phyllis Richman: No, it's not. Not if they say it's an important restaurant for you to visit on a short trip to DC. It is smashing-looking, however, and the cafe is fun for reasonably priced Southwestern food. Rio GRande CAfes (in BEthesda and Arlington) serve better Tex-Mex food and far lower prices.

Washington, D.C.: Phyllis -- Though not the Carnegie Deli, you should try the Celebrity Deli (there are 2, one located in Rockville and the other in Northern VA). Probably the best deli in the area (even New Yorkers think so!!!) The servers are even somewhat rude.

My question, I am going to Felix tonight for dinner, what do you suggest?

Phyllis Richman: I'll give one of them a try. Thanks. As for Felix, my favorites there are their Friday- and Sunday-night chicken soup and brisket and challah. Can't help you with tonight's menu.

arlington, va : you mentioned a deli at Democracy and Old Georgetown Roads. what's the name of it?

Phyllis Richman: That's why I gave the location-the name has slipped my mind. Wildwood? ? ? Maybe somebody out there recalls.

Washington, DC: Phyllis, Any thoughts on restaurant dress codes - specifically "jackets required" for men. The hostess at a Georgetown restaurant recently asked one of my party if they wouldn't mind taking one of their house jackets and draping it over the back of his chair. It seemed kind of silly and I would have appreciated a reminder of the requirement when calling to make reservations.

Phyllis Richman: That's the funniest story I've heard this week. A dress code for chairs?

Yes, a restaurant should definitely warn you of a dress code when you call to make reservations, since so few restaurants have dress codes anymore.

Fairfax, Va: Hi Phyllis,
Can you provide any information about nice to fine dining in the Warrenton area?

Just fyi: On the recommendation of a friend, we recently tried the Town n' Country Restaurant on Route 29 in New Baltimore and found scrumptious home cooking, extremely reasonable prices, and really friendly and attentive staff!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the suggeston re Baltimore. I don't happen to have any Warrenton restaurants on my list. Surely somebody out there does.

Vienna, VA: I don't know you can possibly compare Rio Grande to Red Sage!! I would agree that Red Sage perhaps does not live up to its hype but it is much more than a Tex-Mex restaurant! I had a wonderful dinner there a couple of years ago of buffalo steak and rabbit sausage or some similar unusual combination and had no complaints at all. And I frequently go to Rio Grande, and it's the best in its class, but Red Sage is a far cry from Uncle Julio's fajitas.

Phyllis Richman: Okay, okay. You're right. Rio GRande is down-home families-with-kids shirtsleeves dining, and Red Sage is a Big Deal. It's just that Rio Grande lives up to the expectations of its kind of restaurant, whereas Red Sage often does not.

arlington va: Hi Phyllis,

Last week someone brought up Indian food and asked for some suggestions. Several excellent places were mentioned, but Cafe New Delhi was neglected. It is in Clarendon and deserves recommendation. The food is very light and greaseless. Service and setting are pleasant as well.

Phyllis Richman: I know the place has a lot of fans, and it is a pleasant, inexpensive Indian restaurant. But I've been there twice and had mediocre food. No competition to Bombay Curry Company, for example.

Silver Spring, MD: You've occasionally complained in reviews that food was under salted. Due to salt sensitive high blood pressure, I've come to really enjoy food much more with no added salt. Now I taste individual food flavors, rather than everything tasting of salt! Besides, there's always a salt shaker on the table for those who want to add more. Any thoughts?

Phyllis Richman: While I can sympathize with your situation, some foods need salt in the cooking to bring out their flavor, and salting at the table does not do it. Vegetables, pastas, baked goods and such aren't the same when cooked without salt. I don't think restaurants should heavily salt foods, but they do themselves a disservice when they undersalt.

Oakton, VA: There is a great place to eat just outside of Warrenton in the Plains. A chef rents out the kitchen at "The Rail Stop" on the weekends and serves some great food.

Phyllis Richman: Sounds like an interesting idea.

washington, dc: I heard that the owners of the legendary Rao's in New York were planning to open a branch here in D.C. Do you know any details about this?

Phyllis Richman: Yes, Rao's is looking for a site in Washington. I don't know what that might mean, however, since it is the neighborhood, the clientele and the atmosphere that make this restaurant, more than the food. It is an old restaurant iin Harlem left over from when that was an Italian neighborhood, and the tables are more or less "owned' by the old customers. The food is old-fashioned red-sauce Southern Italian, good but not great. The camaraderie, the sing-alongs and the general neighborhood atmosphere are what make the place.

Washington, D.C.: When you mention good Indian restaurants, I have not heard you discuss Bombay Palace or Aroma. What is your impression of the quality of these two establishments?

Phyllis Richman: Bombay Palace has long been a fine Indian restaurant, though I haven't' been there lately to verify it. Aroma is pleasant, but I haven't found it up to the others.

RESTON, VA: OUT OF ALL THE RESTAURANTS IN DC, I SEE PRESIDENT CLINTON & THE FIRST FAMILY CHOSE ARDEO IN CLEVELAND PARK; YET YOUR REVIEW WASN'T GOOD, AS FAR AS THE FOOD GOES...ODD

Phyllis Richman: I've been inundated with questions and comments about Ardeo today, so I'll answer one: Yes, President Clinton dined at Ardeo (for the first time) SAturday night. Chelsea also dined in Cleveland Park this week, but at New Heights, which she's been to before.

I have no idea what this all means.

Washington DC: So, you love to cook and so do I. My husband desperately needs to learn how to cook, but I don't have the patience to teach him. When I'm out of town I come home to a house of empty pizza boxes. Any suggestions on where he can take a very basic cooking class -- beyond enrolling in high school and going to home-ec?

Phyllis Richman: Look over the vast list of courses at L'Academie de Cuisine.

Arlington, VA: HELP! I am a Miyagi's addict. The hole-in-the-wall sushi place in McLean behind Boston Chicken in McLean-proper has my friends and I at its tables/bar at least once a week. However, "Bob" the amazing chef and roll artiste has moved on. Any ideas? We don't want to offend our friendly hosts by asking where he's gone. We fear the implication that we would abandon them for his new digs (which we might). The new guy is good but, he's not Bob!

Phyllis Richman: I missed it. And I guess I'm too late. Keep me posted if you find Bob again.

Washington, DC: A good friend of mine can't eat comfortably at a restaurant if you haven't at least given it a minimal okay. We are having lunch tomorrow in Foggy Bottom, and I would love to take him somewhere you have personally recommended. Any ideas? Thanks!

Phyllis Richman: One last answer before time's up:
Take your friend to Melrose in the Park Hyatt at 24th and M, and sit outdoors if the weather is right.

Now I've got to get back to my stove.

Until next week. . .

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