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Chef of the Year Nominees
With Cesare Lanfranconi
Chef/Owner, Ristorante Tosca
Friday, May 23, 2003; 2 p.m. ET
Chef Cesare Lanfranconi of Ristorante Tosca was online Friday, May 23 at 2 p.m. ET, to discuss his cooking philosophy and Tosca's contemporary northern Italian cuisine. Lanfranconi is one of five nominees for the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington's chef of the year award. Throughout May all five nominees will be online.
Chef and owner of Ristorante Tosca, was born in Lecco, Italy. Lanfranconi began his culinary career at age 15 working with his grandmother and other family members while he attended culinary school. Following culinary school, Lanfranconi moved permanently to the United States after his experiences as a chef consulting at The Lodge of Vail in Vail, Colo.; as head chef at the opening of Café Milano in Washington D.C.; and Trattoria al Sole also in Washington D.C. In 1995, Lanfranconi began work as Sous Chef with Roberto Donna's Galileo restaurant. Soon he was promoted to Executive Chef and was a prominent force in Galileo's award-winning establishment before opening his own Ristorante Tosca. Cesare is married to Christiana and is the father of three girls, Tosca, Tea and Caterina.
The transcript follows.
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Cesare Lanfranconi: Buongiorno everybody.
First, thank you for having me here. I am very honored and pleased to answer your questions and to chat with you today.
Out of towner:
I walk into Ristorante Tosca. What is the one dish you would like me to try, and why?
Cesare Lanfranconi: I think you should try one of my tasting menus, because they are the synthesis of my personal style of cooking.
There are different formats where you can find contemporary cuisine as well as traditional Italian, with different course options and pricing. We also offer wine flights to go along with each course.
Washington, D.C.:
As a chef, where would you go and dine on an evening out in Washington, D.C?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Tosca of course...
Also Kaz Sushi Bistro, Marcel's, Equinox, Ten Penh, Citronelle, Galileo, Vidalia, Maestro, Firefly, Jaleo, Etrusco, Terrazza, Filomena. Buon Appetito!
Washington, D.C.:
Mr. Lanfranconi --
Thanks so much for taking our questions. Tosca is a wonderful place. I will be getting married in Venice, after a short stay in Rome, in September. The reception will be at the Cipriani -- any thoughts what to expect, or any other restaurants we shouldn't miss in Rome, Venice, or on our honeymoon in France?
Cesare Lanfranconi: I previously worked for the same company that owns the Cipriani in Venice (Orient Express.) I have dear chef friends in Rome, and since you are visiting some of the most amazing places that are very dear to me, I definatly have to recommend several of them, but the list would be too long, I will just list a few in Rome: Agata e Romeo, La Terrazza dell'hotel Eden. I would be pleased to speak with you personally if you contact me at the restaurant.
Washington, D.C.:
Cesare,
Having been to all this town's fancy Italian joints, I must say yours is by far my favorite for a number of reasons -- the food of course, the staff which is professional without being snooty, and the atmosphere. Love the nice quiet dining room. A nice contrast to others -- one of which I know you know quite well and that other place on K Street. Both of which seem a bit too self-satisfid in my opinion.
Anyway, any chance I get, I steer others to Tosca and I've never heard anything but glowing reviews. Cheers.
Cesare Lanfranconi: Thank you very much for your friendship and loyalty!
Washington, D.C.:
Congratulations on your "RAMMY" nomination for chef of the year. We recently ate at Tosca and had a wonderful time.
Can you tell me whether you offer any cooking classes?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Thank you very much - please check our website: www.toscadc.com, for updates and a calendar of cooking classes at the end of the summer and special events.
Washington, D.C.:
Does your restaurant offer northern or southern fare?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Primarily northern fare, but not exclusively.
Arlington, Va.:
Have any famous people dined at your restaurant lately?
Cesare Lanfranconi: yes, of course a lot of politicians, actors and chefs, actually Robert Wiedmaier is here bothering me right now...
Washington, D.C.:
It seems the downtown Washington area is really growing and building up. Do you find more people coming to the new downtown for dinner?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Yes, there is a lot of energy in this growing part of town - with all the new businesses opening up in this area, it is really becoming a hot spot in DC.
Downtown, D.C.:
Cesare! Tosca is in my top 5 favorite restaurants in town -- you are a brilliant additon to the D.C. Dining scene. (plus, you make me never want to eat at a chain like Maggiano's again -- am I allowed to say that?)
A couple of months ago, I spotted you walking around the Washington Convention Center in your chef's jacket -- like you were working? What is your relationship to the new center?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Grazie, for the first part.
For the second part, Yes, I am trying to actively be part of new projects with the Convention Center, I truly believe that it will benefit and have a huge impact on the city.
Washington, D.C.:
Where is Lecco; what kind of cooking is typical, and what did you learn from your grandmother?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Lecco is on Lake Como, in the Lombardy region of Italy. The subject is so vast, but in a few words, if it can be described, lots of cheeses, risotto, fresh pasta, pork products (fresh and cured,) grown and wild vegetables, fresh-water fish, frogs and snails, porcini, hens, rabit, game animals, and so on...
From my grandmother I learned Love and Passion.
Washington, D.C.:
Would you be able to do a tasting menu for a vegetarian? Not vegan -- I do eat milk, eggs, cheese and honey -- just no meat or fish.
Cesare Lanfranconi: I would be delighted to do a vegetarian tasting menu - I have plenty of lovely ideas.
Alexandria, Va.:
What's a sous chef?
Cesare Lanfranconi: A sous chef is the second person in charge in the kitchen, assisting the executive chef with all of the daily operations; sometimes it is much more that that.
Alexandria, Va.:
I agree with previous posters that Tosca is hands-down the best Italian in town. My favorite dish so far was the beet-filled ravioli that I had earlier this spring. It was wonderful!
Cesare Lanfranconi: Thank you - our menu changes monthly so that we can use ingredients at the peak of their flavor and treat them in the most gentle ways possible. The beet and taleggio filled ravioli is excellent, now we are using peas, asparagus, morels, ramps, scallops, octopus, calamari and a lot of other yummy foods.
Washington, D.C.:
I know that in Italian cooking, the key is relatively simple dishes with the freshest ingredients. What are the best places to shop for these other than the super expensive places like Dean and Deluca? Also, what are some of your favorite Northern Italian wines under $20? $10? Thanks.
Cesare Lanfranconi: My best source of fresh ingredients are the different farmers markets around town (Dupont Circle, Eastern Market, Arlington, Bethesda...)
Wines in that price range are Chianti, Barbera, Salice Salentino, Soave, Tocai, Valpolicellal.
New Yorker:
I have eaten several times at Tosca,(one of my top Italian restaurants outside of New York). One of my fav fishes is branzino baked in kosher or sea salt. I have never seen it on your menu. Do you ever serve it??
Looking forward to my next visit ...
Cesare Lanfranconi: Thank you, I served that dish for several months on our menu. Now we prepare it sometimes as a special and if you call us ahead of time we can prepare it for you.
Washington, D.C.:
Here's a really simple question -- my pasta just never tastes as good as in a (good) restaurant. Walk me through how you'd cook a simple 1 lb. box of pasta -- when to put in, how much water, when to take out, rinse, mix with sauce, serve. Thanks!
Cesare Lanfranconi: Cook pasta in abundant (two gallons) salted boiling water, cook it for a minute less than the specifications, aggggh - never rinse! Then you mix it with your sauce, add two tablespoons of fresh extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, and a handful of Parmesan cheese.
Capitol Hill, D.C.:
What is your favorite ingredient of the moment? Maybe something new you've discovered or something old that you can't live without?
Cesare Lanfranconi: My spring mood is to be in love with all the green things I can reach. Then it's seafood, because it is the season when they have the best taste, generally.
Alexandria, Va.:
Is there any food that you think people would be surprised to know that you like? I knew a chef once who, in his private life, really loved junk/fast food and ate bologna sandwiches all the time.
Cesare Lanfranconi: I love organ meat... Shhh.
Washington, D.C.:
What's branzino? I'm hungry reading this discussion. Are reservations for the weekend hard to get?
Cesare Lanfranconi: Branzino is Mediterranean Sea Bass.
Just call us at 202.367.1990 for reservations.
Alexandria, Va.:
Chef Lanfranconi, thank you for taking my question.
I used to spend the summer in Italy when I was growing up (70s and 80s) but have not been back since 1994. What is happening on the food front in bell'Italia?
Grazie!
Cesare Lanfranconi: A lot of exciting things, like new restaurants with a more contemporary approach to cusine, always respecting traditions and promoting natural ingredients.
It is always best to take a trip to Italy to find out, that is what I am going to do soon to keep myself informed.
K Street:
Chef -- awesome menu and very helpful Web site.
Do you have a small bar for single diners?
Many thanks.
Cesare Lanfranconi: Thank you. We do have a bar where we serve a full menu, and a lot of smiles - single diners are welcome.
Arlington, Va.:
What, chef, is organ meat?
Cesare Lanfranconi: I hope I don't get in trouble now, but since you asked...
Organ meats are: liver, kidneys, bone marrow, intestines, brain, heart, lungs...do you want me to keep going?
Takoma Park, Md.:
Have you ever tried Ravida Olive Oil? I believe that's the name. I absolutely love it. So fresh and has a peppery taste in the end.
Cesare Lanfranconi: I'm sorry to regret that I have never tried that particular brand. When you taste olive oil, just make sure it is fresh, consumed within 12 months of production and is not filtered.
Washington, D.C.:
How do you see the restaurant scene in D.C. changing over the next few years?
Cesare Lanfranconi: There is a lot of energy in the air, a lot of good restaurants competing means higher standards so I am positively impressed and excited that our beautiful town can be one of the major restaurant towns in the country.
Washington, D.C.:
I heard that the nominated chefs for the awards design the meal. What course are you designing and can you tell us what it is?
Cesare Lanfranconi: I will be doing my version of Tiramisu; Tiramisu alla Cesare.
Bethesda, Md:
Re: Favorite dishes. I've tried tasting menus in a couple of places, and they can be wonderful, but it's often a 'lot' of food, and you're in sort of a daze by the end of the meal. Could you pick three or four dishes that you consider 'signature' dishes that one could try in a few visits.
Cesare Lanfranconi: Housemade veal and pork liver sausage, asparagus tortelli with a morel mushroom sauce, soft shell crab with a pine nut and caper sauce, fresh peas cappellacci with a Parmesan cheese sauce, grilled bison filet with smoked mozzeralla, crispy prosciutto and black truffle sauce, then try our citrus cannoli.
Cesare Lanfranconi: I just want to thank you all for your questions - don't forget to vote for me for Chef of the Year for the restaurant awards, looking forward to seeing all of you here at the restaurant and having fun together.
Ciao.
Cesare Lanfranconi
washingtonpost.com:
That wraps up today's show. Thanks to everyone who joined the
discussion.
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