The Grapevine
Michael Franz
Washington Post Wine Columnist
Wednesday, November 05, 2003; Noon ET
Every other Wednesday at Noon ET, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz comes to the Web for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz has worked as wine columnist for The Washington Post since 1994, and has conducted more than 650 site visits and tastings at wineries across Western and Eastern Europe, South America, the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
The transcript follows -- enjoy the oenological banter.
Editor's Note: washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things vinous. The basic idea for the show is that you submit any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines.
Two matters we might discuss today: My column in today’s print edition recommends French wines for Thanksgiving, based not only on their exceptional quality and peerless suitability for a typical Thanksgiving meal, but also on my belief that boycotting French wines on political grounds is ill-advised. Happy to debate the political, vinous, or gastronomical issues here today….
Second, perhaps you saw the special section the Post published on October 24 on food- and wine-related travel, for which I contributed a story on side-trips to great wine regions. The piece detailed my top ten regions that can be accessed relatively easily from common destinations in the USA and abroad, and was accompanied by a fantastically helpful guide on how to get to these places and what to do there, provided by Post staff writer Elissa Liebowitz. Please check it out if you haven’t already (either from the Food section’s wine archive, or perhaps my producer for this show could plug in a link?), and let us know your favorite wine touring spot.
Let’s get rolling with your questions. Please don’t be offended if I can’t get to your question during the hour, as there are almost always more than I can manage. Generally speaking, I try to respond first to those questions that may be of most general interest, or at least those that I can answer with information that will be useful to participants other than the questioner. However, I also take questions to help individuals, so please be patient and keep trying!
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washingtonpost.com:
Wine First, Business Later (Post, Oct. 24)
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Shepherd Park, Washington, D.C.: Michael,
I found your column in today's paper remarkable. I had no idea that sentiment against all things French ran so deep in this country that you would have to devote the entirety of the text of your column to justify recommending French wines. Perhaps this question isn't appropriate for the wine discussion, but are things REALLY that bad here? washingtonpost.com:
A Revolutionary Thought (Post, Nov. 5)
Michael Franz: Hi There,
My sad experience is that there is a constant, simmering animosity against the French among many Americans who assume that they are generally snotty and anti-American. In many cases I encounter this animosity when speaking with people who learn of my wine work or my travels in France and who express it quite unbidden from me. These notions are utterly at odds with my many experiences in France, and often it turns out that, when I ask whether or how often the person with whom I'm speaking has been to France, I discover that their views are based on next to nothing.
And there was a much sharper, more acute reaction across much of the country to the political events of last spring. This was more prevalent outside our region, which is much more cosmopolitan (for better and worse) than most of the USA. If you missed it, there were scenes of people pouring out French wines into gutters, etc., that continued well into summer. And still I run into someone every week who is still boycotting.
So, yes, it seems that things areally are that bad out there, though less so right here.
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Lake Ridge, Va.:
Venerable Vinous Vizier...
Wonderful words of wisdom in today's column on French wines, for which many thanx!
As an apprentice VVV (apologies for shortening your title!), I've been instructed to bring the fruit of the vine for T-Day dinner- -which will feature roast pork. Caught a local wineseller's advert this week and snagged a few bottles of '99 Chateau Greysac Cru Bourgeoise for the main course. Did so on the advice long ago of a friend of advancing years who said he'd never been disappointed by the wares of that particular estate. If I chose wrongly, there's plenty of time for repairs, and I'd appreciate your recs for an alternative.
May your students challenge you eternally, professor!
Michael Franz: That's great...thank you.
I've tasted '99 Greysac, and think it a very nice wine. However, there is really a special synnergy between roast pork and Pinot Noir, so I hope you'll have a look for some of the Burgundies that I recommended today, or the affordable Pinots from the wine column of two weeks ago. And as if that were not enough, I'll have still more Pinots (higher end ones mostly) from the USA in the column two weeks from today.
BUT ON TO THE REAL ISSUE: How the heck do you get away with ditching the turkey and serving roast pork for Thanksgiving? I'm very lukewarm on turkey, and must know how you achieved this miraculous feat of familial diplomacy!
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Arlingon, Va.: HI Michael,
I enjoyed your very diplomatic essay on the French wine boycott. One important point that you did not address is the impact of this ill-conceived boycott on American French wine importers/distributors/suppliers/retailers. Those so-called "patriots" who are refusing to purchase the French wines that are ALREADY here in the U.S. are doing more damage to our own economy than to the French. What these zealots fail to realize is how intertwined the French and American economies are via import/export. The French wines we see here in our local wine shops have already been purchased, the money is in the hands of the (politically blameless) French winemaker or negociant (most likely paid for before the wine even left Europe). So the suffering party is ultimately the wine industry here in the US. Oh, and good luck, boycotters, trying to find an American wine of the same high quality and value as a French wine. It won't happen, and American wine shops will NEVER stop carrying French wine for that reason alone. All this, and no weapons of mass destruction. Looks like the French were right all along about the war anyway. And, no, I'm not French.
Michael Franz: Hi Arlington,
Thanks for your post. I'm gong to past in a sentence from today's column that will indicate that we are on the same wavelength and that I am indeed sensitive to the issue you note:
"Expressing one’s wrath over French policy in an indiscriminate boycott against French winegrowers is hardly a laser-guided tactic, and you might also reflect that thousands of Americans working to select, import, promote and distribute French wines here are suffering collateral economic damage."
The only thing I might take issue with you on would be whether American wines will attain the same quality and value as French wines. I think they are much closer on qualtiy than on value these days, but I see more signs every day that the grape and wine glut in CA is softening prices, so I'm confident that the USA will be notably more competitive a year from today. Still, even on quality, I'd have to agree that there is only one grape in the crafting of which American wines are really on an arguable par with french counterparts, and that is Cabernet Sauvignon....
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Mt. Desert Island, Maine:
Dear Michael,
First: Congratulations on the first sentence of today's column. It's one of the best opening lines I've seen in a long time.
What is your take on using the word, Alsatian, for wines from Alsace? I know that Andre Simon was famous for only using Alsace for the wines. He said, "Alsatian is ze dog!"
But it's my understanding that the word Alsatian - as used for canines - only became current in 1917 when no one wanted to use the word, German, and so German Shepherds became Alsatians.
And so shouldn't Alsatian be a perfectly good adjective to describe anything from Alsace?
Michael Franz: Hello Up There,
I recall vividly being upbraided by my (now) friend Jean Trimbach very shortly after I began writing about wine for using "Alsatian," and he made precisely the point that this is a proper reference only for a dog. I had not heard this attributed to Andre Simon; thank you.
My general approach to names for almost anything or anybody follows Shakespeare's "what's in a name?" idea: I'll pretty much call anybody whatever they wish, and if people from Alsace have druthers in this, I'm happy to take guidance. My editors at the Post occasionally change "Alsace wine" to "Alsatian," so you must be right that this is not improper.
My only exception to my own rule has to do with a guy who is in the wine trade here in D.C. who, for some reason, wishes to be called, "Pineapple." I cannot call a grown man "Pineapple." Sorry!
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Arlington, Va.:
I vaguely remember rumblings about a possible column on Ports. Is this in the works?
Michael Franz: Trust me! January!
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Alexandria, Va.:
When it comes to spicy or hard-to-match foods recommendations are often made for zinfandel or riesling. Since I like both, I'm pleased: but how do you decide which? With Indian foods I'm definitely in the white wine camp (riesling, gewurtztraminer, perhaps pinot gris), but I'm not sure about other dishes.
Michael Franz: I'd turn to zin in such cases only when there's red meat involved, or some other component that would simply overwhelm the lesser robustness of a white wine. And you should remember that you can get the fruity impression of sweetness in red wine not only from Zin but also Pinot. California Pinots are especially sweet-seeming when young, and though this is sometimes a flaw, it turns out to be quite useful in this sort of applicaiton.
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Shepherd Park, Washington, D.C.: Michael, thanks as always for providing us with an opportunity to ask questions of a wine expert, and for being truly gracious in your replies.
I recently came across Oregon pinot noir being sold under the "American Wintasters Society" label for about $12. What a bargain! The wine tastes better than many I've had at several dollars more.
Are you familiar with this wine and, more generally, with the "American Wintasters Society" label?
Michael Franz: Haven't seen that one. Guessing that it is a wine club...is that correct? Can anybody out there shed some light on this?
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Washington, D.C.:
Michael-
I know you recommended red
burgundies for Thanksgiving in your
column today. However, I was thinking of
serving a Chateuneuf-du-Pape. Should I
reconsider? washingtonpost.com:
A Revolutionary Thought (Post, Nov. 5)
Michael Franz: If it were a little older (like maybe 1995?), that might work very well, but current release Chateauneufs would probably put a whuppin' on turkey. Still, if you make pretty robust gravy (which would effectively beef up even the breast meat), and love Chateauneuf, why not? And as long as you're getting innovative, why not follow the lead of our friend and just forget the turkey altogether! Strike a blow for freedom and individuality: Roast a Goose!
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Potomac, Md.:
Still a loyal grapenvinista. Lately, as my tastes develop or mature, I notice that the "fruit bomb" wines that get so much attention the press (e.g., Parker) fail to impress me on more than one level. I am intersted in looking at some of the more subtle and complex wines and want to know what you recommend. Let's forget Burgundy as I am not interested in paying those prices. It seems to me that Spain or Italy might be a place to look. Where do you stand on the friut bombs and where do you look for relief. Some recommendations in the $20 range are always appreciated.
Michael Franz: I'm clearly with you on the fruit bomb issue, and am a great believer in $20 wines from Italy and Spain. But please, don't give up on Burgundy just yet! Please note that the Bruno Clair and Vincent Girardin wines from today's column ring up at just $24, and they are both fantastic!
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Arlington, Va.:
Michael,
I thoroughly enjoy your column and these chats. While I completely agree with your opinion in today's column, you state near the end of the first column, that the column is not an op-ed piece and the space was given to you to talk about wine. I submit that you did in fact write an op-ed piece and "wasted" half of your column on political issues. Because your insights on wine are so valuable, and rare due to the frequency of your column, I would humbly appeal to you to use your space to tell us about that great bottle of Chianti you found for under $10.
I hope you take this as a compliment on your value as a wine columnist, as it is intended.
Michael Franz: Happy to post your view. Whether the space was wasted, or simply op-ed stuff misplaced, comes down to whether those with a bone to pick regarding French policy have singled out wine as a target for boycotting. My view is that they have done exactly that, and I wanted to weigh in on the issue. I hope you'll agree that, with 26 columns each year and another 26 shows here, I've not veered off track too badly, at least in percentage terms!
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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.:
Michael:
Bravo, Bravo, Bravo for your column today. Finally someone with the courage to say what many of us feel.
The anti-French sentiment in this country has been driven by opportunistic politicians and the usual 'Amerikka-first' crowd. The truth is, the vast majority of French citizens did not support the war and the government's position partially reflected that.
This was also the case in Germany, Russia, etc but we did not see boycotts of those countries nor the immense vitrol directed towards France.
Personally, I think many in the boycott-camp have had a life-long inferiority complex for all things French and this was their chance to get even.
VIVE LA FRANCE washingtonpost.com:
A Revolutionary Thought (Post, Nov. 5)
Michael Franz: Happy to post your view as well. I agree that majority sentiment in France was against the war, as it was almost everywhere in the world (except the UK; but friends tell me that sentiment against was very high in places like Australia). As for Germany and Russia, you're certainly right, though in fairness, I must note that Jacques Chriac was vastly more doctrinaire and obstinate than either Schroeder or Putin. He went so far at one point as to say that he would never support military action in Iraq under any circumstances, which, in the context of the uncertainties of the moment regarding WMD and so forth, was preposterously dogmatic and unstatesmanlike. But even allowing for that, the notion that it makes sense to boycott an agricultural commodity is if all French citizens line up behind such views is really not very sensible....
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Cupertino, Calif.:
Wonder of wonders, in the latest issue of Wine
Spectator, their lead critic, James Laube, finally
admitted that there is "bottle for bottle, more bland
Merlot made than there is bland any-other-wine",
and that it is "perhaps the most over-planted and
overrated grape". Finally. Of course, he never
mentioned WS's role in over-hyping CA Merlots. Is
this the dawn a new era when wines will be valued
for their actual taste? Will it be followed
immediately by world peace? More seriously, what
other wines do you think are on the over-hyped list?
Michael Franz: Amen! And differing only slightly, I'd say that the equivalent for "world peace" (which you rightly imply is intelligible only as a utopian symbol drawn from an intramundane eschatology) in millennial hopes for wine criticism that wines will someday be valued for their actual performance WITH FOOD.
Other types that are over-hyped? How about Beaujolais and, to a lesser extent, Zinfandel?
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Washington, D.C.: Hello Michael. I am an American and a long-time Francophile. Thank you for your thoughtful and thought-provoking essay today. And the title of your essay reminds us all that the French heavily underwrote the American revolution. Some are quick to say, "Without America there would be no France" (referring one presumes to US help in WWI and WWII) to which I always reply, "You've got it backwards -- without France there would be no America."
I also love French wine, particularly Champagne, and no matter what allegedly dastardly deeds our French brethren commit, for as long as I live I will respect and emulate the French people's appreciation of beauty in all its forms.
Michael Franz: Thank you for your note. While we're at it, we might also note that Americans tend to reflect only on WWII when thinking of French military performance, failing to recognize that the valor they showed in WWI, and the magnitiude of the sacrifice they paid, absolutely beggars belief. Every little town in France has a monument to the dead from that war, and when you compate the length of the list to the number of dwellings, it becomes obvious that virtually an entire generation perished in the trenches. We Americans are right to be proud of our assistance to the French and British in WWII, but we have an unfortunate tendency to overestimate the significance of our (way too late) contributions, and to underestimate the British contribution, and to overlook the courage of the Free French forces and the Underground, and to misread WWI.
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Takoma Park, Md.:
I've a 1995 Marques de Riscal Reserva which I suspect may have reached its peak. Am I correct and are you familiar with that particular year?
Michael Franz: I'd guess that wine is still just fine. Good luck!
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Bethesda, Md.:
Michael
Our son graduated from The University of Rochester in 1999 and will be having his 5 year reunion next spring. We would like to get him a nice New York state wine from 1999 for the occasion and perhaps a case or two for future reunions. Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Michael Franz: I'd be happy to help, but since so little wine from the Finger Lakes makes it here, I rarely get a chance to taste them. If you're interested in a wine from New York more generally, I'd think a 1999 red from Long Island would be the best choice. Have a look and ask for some help in a wine shop the next time you get up to New York.
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Washington DC:
Did you see in the Post's Sunday Source section the article on the five wines you should have on hand? (It was about general types, not too specific.) Any comments or thoughts?
Michael Franz: Yes, I saw it, and it seemed pretty well done. That section appears to be geared to the 20-something reader, and a major challenge is to get more people in that age group turned on to wine. So, three cheers!
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Michael Franz: Yikes...out of time. Thanks very much for tuning in, and I'll look forward to "seeing" you here in two weeks, same time, same site. Until then, cheers!
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