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The Grapevine
Hosted by Michael Franz
Special to the Washington Post
Wednesday, April 23, 2003; Noon ET
Every other Wednesday at Noon ET, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz comes to the Web for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz has worked as wine columnist for The Washington Post since 1994, and has conducted more than 650 site visits and tastings at wineries across Western and Eastern Europe, South America, the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
The transcript follows -- enjoy the oenological banter.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things vinous. The basic idea for the show is that you submit any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines.
Two weeks ago, I published a story on wines based on Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley. As it happens (and it happens often), a couple of very strong wines weren’t included because of a glitch in the process by which samples get to me, and I want to be sure to note them here so that savvy Grapevinistas get a jump on competing consumers:
--Domaine Crespin Chinon “Le Champ Martin” 2001, $13
--Domaine Crespin Chinon “Arlequin” 2000, $22
My sources tell me that Jean-Pierre Crespin is a rapidly rising star in Chinon, as well as a controversial figure who is recurrently butting heads with the appellation authorities as a result of his innovative practices. Be that as it may, these wines are both fantastic—if utterly different.
The “Champ Martin” is the freshest, fruitiest, purest rendition of Cabernet Franc that I have ever tasted from France. Period. It is so much fun that the stuff seems vaguely illegal, which may be a reflection of its author’s character. No apparent oak here, and no bottle bouquet yet, but the absolute soul of fresh Cab Franc. Think you like Beaujolais? Taste this and you will never go back.
The Arlequin is a much more serious and complex wine, though whether it is better for that will depend on the occasion and your mood. You’ll find much more notable oak here, and more serious concentration in the fruit to keep the package in balance. There are lots of nice little aromatic nuances to lend interest, and the wine finishes with authority but no bitterness or drying. Excellent—and just right with a veal chop.
For the record, Crespin also makes a purportedly still-more-serious wine called “Artissimo,” which is priced at $31 for the 2000 vintage. The bottle is very heavy, presaging a serious wine, and it sports a terrific label (as do the other two wines) as well as a gold medal won at a competition in Macon. Looks promising and then…WHAM…a preposterous overdose of new oak ruins the impressive material, both aromatically and on the palate. Maybe the wine is going through an “awkward” stage, but I doubt it. As for that gold medal, my guess is that the judging panel was packed with coopers. Let’s hope Crespin dumps the idea of making a “statement” wine in this style, and while we’re at it, let’s hope statement wines as a genre go the way of the Dodo bird. Let us not, however, let this slip obscure the two dynamite wines above!
Shameless self-promotion: Please have a look at this coming Sunday’s Washington Post Magazine for a story on a massive deck that I built a few years back. The project almost killed me, but we love the thing, which has an outdoor kitchen (where I do much of my tasting) and a hot tub and an outdoor fireplace. You might find it interesting, and if you’re contemplating a big-time home improvement project this spring, let me talk you OUT OF IT! I’ll do a special Live Online show next Monday at 1:00 p.m. to discuss the story and the project, and I hope you’ll join in.
One last thing: Be sure to check out Judith Weinraub’s wonderful story in today’s Food section on my friend Jose Andres, Executive Chef at Jaleo, Café Atlantico and Zaytinya. Jose is a great talent, a great person, and a certified Washington treasure. Congratulations to him and to Roberto Alvarez and Rob Wilder on Jaleo’s 10th anniversary.
Let’s get rolling with your questions. Please don’t be offended if I can’t get to your question during the hour, as there are almost always more than I can manage. Generally speaking, I try to respond first to those questions that may be of most general interest, or at least those that I can answer with information that will be useful to participants other than the questioner. However, I also take questions to help individuals, so please be patient and keep trying!
Scottsdale, Ariz.:
Hello Michael! I'm posting early as I can't be here for the chat. I can't tell you how much I enjoy them. I only wish they were every week! I would like to know if you have any suggestions on types of wines to enjoy on my trip to Venice, Italy? Are there any wines from northern Italy that you think are particularly worthwhile? Thank you and keep up the good work!
Michael Franz: You are very kind, and I hope that your trip ends up being as enjoyable as it sounds! There is a LOT of fantastic wine made within an hour or two of Venice, so you can't miss. Friuli makes wonderful whites (good reds too...but the whites steal the show), especially Sauvignon Blanc and Tocai Friuliano. Veneto reds are potentially outstanding, and you've got to try a few Amarones in particular. As for bubbly, go for some Prosecco...made up in the Treviso hills near Venice. The whole area is just glorious...Enjoy!
Chantilly, Va.:
I also wanted to add to the value (under $12) camp, the '00 Nero d'Avola from Santa Anastasia. What a wonderful little red wine that goes well with a lot of Italian fare and pizza. I find that Southern Italy with Corvina, Nero d'Avola and Aglianco (not to mention Vermentino) a source of great wines for great prices. washingtonpost.com :
Reds Under $12 (Post, April 23)
Michael Franz: Hey, we're on the same page here, and you'll see that a full 1/3 of the wines that made the cut for today's story were from Italy. Sadly, many consumers think that European wines must be expensive, but the fact...and I mean FACT...is that the best bargains going these days are from Italy, Spain, France and Portugal!
Waldorf, Md.:
Hi there! I managed to obtain 3 of the cabernet francs you recommended, and enjoyed them all. Great with Easter dinner, and you helped make me out to be quite the sommelier. Thanks! So now, please tell me: the recipe for grapefruit-salmon in today's Food section - what's a good pairing for that recipe?
Michael Franz: Great! Those wines are really seriously undervalued, and I'm delighted that you tried and liked them.
...Grapefruit-Salmon?! Sounds great, but I can't find the recipe! Where is it?
Arlington, Va.:
First of all, great article today and great timing. I make it my personal goal to find the best wines possible under $12, so some new suggestions are more than welcome!
I'm wondering if you have heard of a winery, Hewitson, from Australia. I've had their "Miss Harry" blend twice, both at restaurants(NY, ATL), and it was without a doubt one of the best I've ever had. I believe it's not too pricey, but haven't been able to find it ANYWHERE! What to do?
Thanks! washingtonpost.com :
Reds Under $12 (Post, April 23)
Michael Franz: Yikes! You've got me on that one! Do You know the appellation? Any of you Grapevinistas able to help our friend here?
G'day From Sydney, Australia!:
Michael-
Ex-pat Washingtonian here with a comment and a coupla questions.
First of all, drank many excellent wines in the last week, but the standout was a '99 Barwang Shiraz. Don't know if you can get it in the States, but it's just a wonderful inky drop -- smells like a permanent marker. As my wife says, "if you can immediately sum up a wine like that, it has to be good."
Secondly, how is it that Zinfandel can be such a different wine in the U.S. and Oz? Thinking back on Zins I used to drink from California -- real full-on wines -- I am amazed by the Aussie style (Kangarilla Road, etc.) which is much lighter. What accounts for this?
Finally, more wines here, including reds, are coming with screw/Stelvin caps. (Mitchell is doing it's whole range that way now). Australia tends to drink its wines young, but will these tops preclude aging?
Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hey, G'day right back at you! I presume your's was an early post, but if you're with us on line, can you help on the Aussie wine noted above?
On Zin, seems likely that California's old vines--and the resultingly low yields--explain this difference. Given the great depth and size of so many Australian wines, it sure doesn't seem likely that climate is producing the differential result!
Lots of research on Stelvin caps happening...no definitive conclusions yet. The early returns are mostly applicable to whites, which seem better preserved (less color change, slower oxidation) than with natural cork or plastic closures. That doesn't speak to the ageworthiness issue you mention, but the manufacturer claims that there's enough oxygen dissolved in the solution at the time of bottling to permit developmental ageing over time in reds under Stelvins. We'll see.
Permanent marker, eh? You been smelling one of those for extended periods?
Please join us again!
Washington, D.C.: What do you think about Fat Bastard wine? I really like the white, but I can't decide if it's just because I love the name, or if the wine actually has any merit.
Michael Franz: On both the white and red side, I prefer the name to the wine, but they are solid and lots of fun!
Rockville, Md.:
I'm planning a dinner party around three different 1982 Bordeaux for dinner -- the main course is roasted or grilled beef, with simply prepared new potatoes and snap peas/carrots -- unless you think there is something else that would show the wines better. I'm undecided on the first course -- something with mushrooms, so we can start right in on the reds, or something fishy with a Sauvignon Blanc or Chablis? (the budget precludes the white from being as good as the reds are, though). Which would you do? And for dessert, I have a choice of a very good Sauternes or an equally good late harvest gewirz (which I like better) -- but I'm at a loss for a dessert dish. Am I stuck with creme brulee, or a not-too-sweet pear or apple tart, or can you suggest something more imaginative? Would a lemon tart with raspberries overpower the wines -- and if not, which would you serve with it? (I know I'm doing this the wrong-way-round, but I've got the wines, will be with a very special group of people, and can cook anything.) And since this question is already too long, one more query -- the reds are La Dominique, Cantemerle, and Pichonde-Laland -- would you serve them in that order? Thanks.
Michael Franz: Hey, who are you? And can I come? I promise not to spit!
This sounds fantastic, and I'm happy to help if I can. Your idea on the main course is just right, and I'd roast the beef even though I'm a grill nut. The reason is that you want a relatively simple and straightforward food backdrop for those wines. Bravo on your thinking there. For the first course, I'd really recommend something totally different from the main course, which, with those wines, should really be given a chance to shine. Go with something really fresh and simple and light: Bowls of little clams steamed in Sauvignon Blanc with, just before you add the clams, a shot of fresh lemon juice and half a bottle of clam juice. Once the clams are bubbling away, pitch in a little freshly chopped basil and a handful of halved cherry tomatoes and a quick grinding of white pepper. Serve with simple, juicy Sauvignon Blanc...Babich from New Zealand is great, and Calvert Woodley had it in the paper today for $10. For dessert, simple fruit tart is the ticket!
Washington, D.C.:
Speaking of mildly absurd names....what are your thoughts on the Naked Mountain (VA) wines? I've heard good things about the Chardonnay but would appreciate any ideas you may have about their wines. Thanks much!
Michael Franz: Hi,
My (pretty) clear recollection is that this is the long-established name of the site and not a contrivance intended to sell the wine. of course, the producer has done everything possible to exploit the name, so this may be mere quibbling.
The wines are good, but not on Virginia's top tier. The owner was looking for a buyer when I last visited there, so we'll see....
Somewhere, USA:
On funny wine names, my friends and I also enjoy Old Fart Chardonnay. For a French wine, it definitely escapes the stuffy stereotype.
Michael Franz: No! You're pulling my leg, or finger perhaps. Is this real? Do you swear? If you lie, we'll make you drink Beaujolais for an entire year!
Washington, D.C.:
My parents and I did a wine tasting on the sauvignon blanc you recommended for my wedding -- the Buena Vista. My parents didn't like it. The other two in the tasting were a Clos du Bois (about $8.50) and a De Loach (a little more). We were split on those. Any comments on those two? Or an alternative? The original parameter was under $10, but let's extend that to $15 because wine is much cheaper out there. I think we're also bailing on any pinot noir because nothing in the under $10 range was up to snuff.
Michael Franz: Do you absolutely insist on CA as the source for that Sauvignon Blanc? The manifest fact is that you can do much better for the money from New Zealand, Chile or South Africa....
Fairfax, Va:
I lived in Prague several years ago and found the wines to be worth their low prices. The reds were especially bad--usually fizzy vinegar. Those rotten communists had ruined the industry. However, I had the great experience of visiting the Lobkowicz vineyard in Melnik, where Prince Lobkowicz was trying to restore the quality of his wines. He was especially hopeful about the champagne. He seemed off to a good start and I wish him well. Do you have any insights on the current state of Czech wines?
Michael Franz: I have never tasted a Czech wine, but I thank you for the idea! Turns out that the Czech ambassador to the USA is a research colleague in my other field, and you've inspired me to make a cheezy pitch to get myself over there to learn what's going on. Thanks!
Any of you out there know anything about these wines?
Washington, D.C.:
Hey Michael,
liked the article today, definitely geared toward my budget!
I was wondering if you caught the post article last week on the decline of the french economy affecting wine producers over there, due to the boycott. Any comments?
Michael Franz: The reports I'm receiving are wildly inconsistent, and I don't wish to pass along anything unreliable.
Any of you got a firmer fix on the situation?
Washington, D.C.:
LOVE these chats. I have a couple of wine storage questions:
1. I currently store my wine against the internal wall of an English basement. It is dark, the temperature never gets above (and very rarely gets to) 70 even on the hottest days, and the temperature never changes rapidly. Nonetheless, the range can be considerable over the course of the year: maybe as low as 50 degrees in the winter. Is this adequate? Since I am sure that the wines mature more rapidly than they would in a temp-controlled cellar, by what factor should adjust the Parker/Wine Spectator "drink after" recommendations.
2. Can one modify an old but functional refrigerator to serve as a wine storage device? If so, what do I need to do to control humidity?
Michael Franz: Hey, thank you.
Don't do the refrigerator thing. Your conditions in the basement are fine. If you could wall off a corner and put a door into one of the two walls, placing fiberglass insulation between the wall studs and lapping some insulating sheeting (Celotex is a common brand name) over the outside before panneling, you'd have a dynamite passive cellar. This is what I did in 1990, and my wines are performing beautifully. It would be cheap, and you'd never need to worry about a temperature spike due to a power failure. If this isn't workable, just start tasting the reds fairly soon after buying and drink them according to your personal preference.
Hewitson Supplier:
According to Hewitson's website you can contact their distributor to find where it's sold nearest you.
The Australian Premium Wine Collection
Please call 1800 485 5753 toll free from anywhere in USA for your most convenient Hewitson stockist.
http://www.hewitson.com.au/distributor.asp
Michael Franz: Great...and that wonderful Collection (assembled by John Larchet) is sold in this area through The Country Vintner on the wholesale level.
layabout in LakeRidge, Va.:
Oh, Great King of AMV (All Matters Vinous)...
Enjoyed a nice bottle of Nebbiolo a month or so back at AV's up on NY Ave...but seldom see such in the bins at the shops or advertised in the paper. Whasup? Is it passe? Too obscure for us citizens of such a jejune nation?
Write on, King!
Michael Franz: Hi! Was it a DOCG wine from Barolo or Barbaresco, or just a varietally-designated Nebbiolo?
Dallas, Texas:
Following up on your previous answer:
could you suggest some bargains these
days in French wines?
Michael Franz: Yep, and you'll see some fantastic whites in the column in two weeks! My wonderful editor would wring my neck if I were to scoop the Food Section here, so stay tuned and have your car idling and ready to go on May 7!
Foggy Bottom, Washington, D.C.: Champagne/sparkling wine question: I find myself wanting to give a bottle to friends for one special occasion or another, and I'd love some guidance from you. The Veuve Clicquot NV is an old standby, and I've given Roederer a few times and it's been well received, but I wonder if I'm missing out on anything special and/or the optimal price/value balance. I'd be interested in any guidance in the $40 to $80 range -- something that receivers will recognize is special both when I've given it but especially when they've tasted it. Any guidance? Favorites? Much obliged!
Michael Franz: I've got you covered! What you need to buy is Jacques Selosse, which your friends aren't likely to recognize at the outset but will never forget once they've tasted it. Selosse does the first fermentation in neutral wood, like Krug, and uses superior, Grand Cru Chardonnay grapes. His wines are fresh and lively but also hold real authority and substance. You'll need to call around to find some bottles, but the effort is well worth it!
Washington, D.C.:
I swear! Old Fart is real! I think it is available at either Fresh Fields or Harris Teeter. And it's definitely French.
Michael Franz: Amazing! To what should we attribute this? Is everybody at BATF off hunting for terrorists? Asleep at the switch? Or is this some sort of hands-off, Republican administration thing? They used to be such total prudes...wouldn't approve anything... and now we've got farting old bastard wines!
Aussie Zinfandel:
To the Sydney ex-pat, do yourself a favor and track down a bottle of Cape Mentelle's Zinfandel. It's gigantic. I think I had a '96 and it was 16.5% alcohol. Unfortunately for us in the U.S. they don't export it here. Hard to find in Oz, but worth it. One of the most amazing wines I've tasted.
Michael Franz: Hey, on our friend's behalf, thanks!
Dallas, Tex.:
Just attended the annual Blessing of the
Vines and New Vintage Wines last weekend in
Grapevine, TX(near DFW Airport), following by
tour of the 7 wineries in Grapevine. Accompanied by rock bands, guitar duos, and at one winery,
Hooters girls passing out chicken wings! Any
comments on your view of the current Texas wine
industry? Is it on your radar screen? Thanks.
Michael Franz: Lord have mercy. Sounds like Texas! Did the Hooters Girls get blessed too? Or were they perhaps doing the blessing? You didn't say a word about the wines...SHOULD they be on my radar screen?
Annandale, Va.:
Went to the Indepent Restaurant Association's "Dine Around" last week and the chef's served some really great Australian wines. Where in DC or VA can I find the best selection of Australian wines to purchase for home consumption?
Michael Franz: My friend Renee Schettler from the Post tells me that Wide World of Wines (in upper Georgetown on Wisconsin) is the place to go. She's never steered me wrong, so you can take it to the bank!
Richmond, Va.:
What is your opinion of Berringer wines in general, and the merlot inparticular.
Michael Franz: Horrible (Chenin Blanc) to spectacular (single-vineyard Merlot from Howell Mountain) and everything in between! In other words, a really, really big company that makes both industrial wines and beautiful boutique bottlings, and which cannot easily be evaluated in general terms.
McLean, Va.:
Hi Michael,
Thank you for being an invaluable resource for wine lovers in the area. My birthday is this week and as a present to myself I've saved all of my change from the last three months or so and am planning to buy myself a bottle of wine with it. It comes to about $75. I was looking for suggestions of something off the beaten path. I tend more toward reds but certainly enjoy all wines. While I like Cabernet Sauvignon I have recently been leaning more toward Rhone blends and lesser know varietals. Thanks.,
Michael Franz: Hey, congratulations in advance! Here's what you should do: If you've getting into Rhone wines, the blend to buy is Domaine de la Solitude “Cuvée Barberini” 1999, $65, which is fantastic. Better still to branch out and use your cash to make a discovery, and what I'd recommend is going across Chain Bridge to MacArthur and asking the guys there to give you the very best bottle of Cote Rotie that you can get with your largesse. These wines are the only ones in the world that can challenge the greatest Grand Cru Burgundies for the title of World's Most Aromatically Awesome Wines, and you MUST try one with a couple of nice grilled lamb chops! Cheers and happy birthday!
Michael Franz: Grrrrr! Out of time with a couple dozen interesting questions that must be left unanswered! Sorry! Try again in two weeks, same time same site. Until then, cheers!
washingtonpost.com :
That wraps up today's show. Thanks to everyone who joined the
discussion.
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