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The Grapevine
Hosted by Michael Franz
Special to the Washington Post
Thursday, Jan. 30, 2003; Noon ET
Every other Wednesday at Noon ET, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz comes to the Web for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz has worked as wine columnist for The Washington Post since 1994, and has conducted more than 650 site visits and tastings at wineries across Western and Eastern Europe, South America, the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
The transcript follows -- enjoy the oenological banter.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! I hope that your year is off to a good start, and that it will include plenty of vinous highlights. Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things connected with wine. The basic idea for the show is that you submit any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines.
As usual, I want to offer a special recommendation to you Grapevinistas, and today’s bottle is a spring fever wine: Jackson Estate Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $15. Where signs of spring are concerned, you can keep your daffodils and your robins—I’ll take one of the wicked Sauvignons from the previous spring to get me thinking about warm weather and the pleasures of crisp, cold refreshment. This wine is so bright and pure and crackly with fresh acidity that you may find that you need to turn up the furnace after cracking the screw cap (which is a superior closure to a cork for this kind of wine, keeping the juice especially fresh), but this will only help with your simulation of spring/summer conditions as an antidote to winter. Jackson Estate makes outstanding Sauvignons in the lightest, freshest style in almost every vintage, so this is a name to remember into the future. As for food…pass the oysters!
Let’s get rolling with your questions. Please don’t be offended if I can’t get to your question during the hour, as there are almost always more than I can manage. Generally speaking, I try to respond first to those questions that may be of most general interest, or at least those that I can answer with information that will be useful to participants other than the questioner. However, I also take questions to help individuals, so please be patient and keep trying!
Silver Spring, Md.:
Enjoyed your columns about Italian wine the last few weeks. Can you suggest a few bottles of Italian wine in the $10-15 price range since most of your suggestions were more than that? Thanks.
Michael Franz: Hi...sure can, and from Tuscany too. The real reason why most of my recommendations were on the pricey side was that I was focusing on the great 1999 vintage, and most of the wines from that year that are in release now are bigger, more ageworthy, more expensive wines. For more affordable bottlings, you'll need to turn to 2000 or 2001. Two top picks: Monte Antico Toscana Rosso 2000, which is about $11 at full markup but can be found discounted as low as $7. Great stuff...that outperforms many $15 Chiantis. Second, and even better (though also more costly): Badiola from Fonterutoli, another Toscano IGT, which is a killer wine for about $12-14. Cheers!
Washington, D.C.:
Greetings--
Location question: First, on two occassions in restaurants in DC I have enjoyed some great Lebanese wines. But my attempt at finding these or ANY Lebanese wines in wine shops has failed. Any suggestions on where to go?
Pairing question: What wine would you serve with a halibut in a port wine reduction sauce, topped with sauteed (red or white) grapes? It seems like it will be sweet, so, maybe a young pinot noir?
Thanks!
Michael Franz: First, I'm told that the Lebanese Taverna restaurants (of which there are several, including one in Rockville) have the top selection of Lebanese wines around. Second...I'm pretty sure that I would never think of a dark, thick, sweet port reduction sauce as an accompaniment to halibut! Maybe halibut steak...but surely not filet...though perhaps I'm lacking in imagination here. So, if you're determined...maybe try something like California Pinot Noir, as it might be sweet-seeming enough to deal with the port while also not being too robust for the halibut. Good luck!
Cupertino, Calif.:
Not a question, really. As I am about to join the swelling ranks of laid-off tech workers, I need to make my wine purchases with far more of an eye to cost. (I've also started limiting myself to 2 glasses (4oz each)per day, which is what the MDs say is best for us anyway.) I've found two sources of good wine at low cost. One is La Vielle Ferme's Rhone wine, less than $10/liter and very drinkable. The other is Catalan reds. I've bought 4 different ones, all less than $10/btl & the worst of them was OK. The best were called Mas Donis & Gotem Bru and would have good values at 2 or 3 times the $8/btl I paid.
Michael Franz: You are a model of discipline, and consequently we are all confident that you will rebound occupationally before long. Thanks for the suggestions!
Washington, D.C.:
Michael:
Two questions, actually. First, would you give a plug for the DC Food/Wine Expo? I've only recently gotten serious about wine, and the ticket is one of those things that isn't a lot of money to spend if I'd really have the opportunity to learn more, but it is a lot if I'm spending my afternoon standing in lines just to taste a few wines, if that makes sense. Thoughts?
Second, I had a wonderful wine last weekend, E. Guigal 2000 Chateuneuf-du-Pape, earthy, slightly chalky but in a good way, complex, strong hint of eucalyptus (which I liked). I've definitely never had an American wine like it. My question is whether there is such a thing, or whether there are comparable wines from anywhere that might be a little less expensive. This was $29, and well worth it, but more than I spend on the average bottle.
Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hi! First, I would recommend that you go to the Expo, since it will offer you a chance to taste lots and lots of important wines. You'll need energy, sharp elbows, and iron discipline (to spit!) to really max out on the benefits, but the benefits can be very considerable if you really want to learn. There are also some seminars that can be great but which impose added cost. I'll be giving one on the wines of South Africa on Saturday, but also a free one for the Post regarding wine and food pairing on Sunday. Hope to see you there!
Alexandria, Va.:
Please don't laugh at the question I'm about to ask! But, where can I find good wine in a box?
To explain: My husband and I went to Montreal a few months ago and had a fabulous time exploring their SAQ state-owned liquor stores. What a selection, particularly in their higher-end stores! And, because of the French influence, they have an enormous selection of French wines. More than I've ever seen in the U.S.
In particular, they had a good selection of "real" wine in a box. We came back with a small box (four bottles worth -- is that three liters?) of Cotes du Rhone. They had lots of other vin de pays selections in box format, but we decided to "splurge" on the Appellation Cotes du Rhone Controlee -- can't remember who made it, exactly. No splurge, really. I can't recall exactly how much it was, but I'm thinking it was about U.S. $20 for the box.
I realize that I may not be getting the absolute highest quality wine when I purchase it in a box. And I absolutely refuse to buy the Franzia "Mountain BurgAndy" stuff, or what have you. But, there's some real convenience in having that much wine "on tap," so to speak. It's great for cooking, and it's great for when I'm dining alone and just want one glass of wine.
Can you help me?
Michael Franz: No laughing from me! I certainly understand being budget-conscious. However, I confess that I've not tasted even one sip of wine from a box since...let me see...1982. It was not good. That does not, of course, mean that wine from a box CANNOT be good, but my bravery has not been sufficient to get past cork-finished 1.5 liter bottles.
However, let us consult our friends: Anybody out there had decent bag-in-box wine lately?
As an aside, I DID taste through the Charles Shaw wines (a.k.a. "Two Buck Chuck") since our last go-round, and have a report if anybody's interested....
Largo, Md.:
Michael - Can wine glasses be TOO large? I've noticed that Burgundy glasses are considerably larger than other red wine glasses. What would be the disadvantage in using them for a Bordeaux-style wine? (I'm trying to keep my collection of wine glasses down to a reasonable number.) Thanks.
Michael Franz: Simply, yes. They can be unwieldy, for one thing, but even from a performance standpoint, a really big glass can keep you too far away from your wine when you're trying to smell it. This is a particular problem with more delicate wines, and I've grown more and more sensitive to it lately. So much so, in fact, that I'm reconsidering my long-term devotion to the Riedel Chianti/Zinfandel glass in the Vinum line. I've come to favor the Spiegelau version of the same general type, with has a bowl that is broader and shorter, getting me closer to the wine. I love the glass for almost any red. I hope you'll give it a try.
Alexandria, Va.:
I'd like to let all of your Virginia readers know that bills regarding beer and wine direct shipment are pending in the Virginia Senate (S.B. 1117 - would allow Virginian's to have out-of-state beer and wine shipped directly to their home); and the Virginia House of Delegates (H.B. 1652 - would allow shipments to ABC stores for pickup by the consumer after payment of a handling fee.)
Virginian's with a taste for wines that they can't buy locally should contact their state legislators right away and urge them to support S.B. 1117 and not H.B. 1652.
Michael Franz: It is a personal pleasure to pass this along. Go get 'em!
Pentagon:
Lebanese Taverna also has a gourmet store in N. Va. They might also sell their wines.
Michael Franz: Great info! Can anybody confirm that they sell Lebanese wines out of that store?
Rockville, Md.:
I tried the Mantel Blanco, 2000, at a restaurant a few weeks ago and really liked it. I remember you reviewed this wine from Spain and thought highly of it. I tried to buy some at the wine store, but they only had the 2001 vintage; they said the 2001 wines from Spain are the best in a long time and that Mantel Blanco is fairly consistent from year to year. Is this so? Have you tried the 2001 vintage? I really enjoyed the 2000 wine.
Michael Franz: Hey,
I have indeed tried the 2001, and it is excellent. Moreover, you should always buy the freshest Sauvignon Blanc available, so don't get stuck on any particular vintage unless you're absolutely sure that the newly released one is BAD. Additionally, 2001 is a very great year in that part of Spain...watch for killer reds from DOs like Toro. Finally, which shop gave you this good advice?
Takoma Park, Md.:
During the last chat, I asked whether you thought the Mondavi/Reidel tasting for $80 at the D.C. Wine Fest was a good deal (you get to keep four glasses), and you said you'd research it. What's the verdict?
Michael Franz: Mea Culpa: Couldn't get to it, due to insane overwork and personal calamity (car stolen and totally stripped...sheesh). All I need to know is this: Are the glasses from the Vinum line, as I'd suspect? And will the Mondavi people be showing some of the Reserve-level wines in them? If so, the deal is a good one. If, however, they are showing Woodbridge out of the cheapo "dishwasher-safe" models, I'd hang onto my moolah....
Bethesda, Md.:
Michael,
Is the switch to Thursday permanent or temporary? Either way, glad to have you here. Now the question: I've almost always got the following four cheeses in my house: double gloucester, stilton, chevres, and Hungarian liptauer. What four wine types should I always have on hand to go with them?
Michael Franz: No, this is a one-shot deal necessitated by a schedulling conflict (ran a press and trade seminar in NYC yesterday at noon on New Zealand reds...and man, that country is on fire where wine improvement is concerned. I'f I could buy stock in that country's prospects...whew!).
Double Glouster means--to me--big red wines. I love port with Stilton, and this is a classic pairing rather than my clever invention. Chevre works well with lots of wines, ranging from tart, minerally Sancerre with the famous dry little buttons of Crotin de Chavignol--at one extreme--to rich, ripe reds with comparably rich Boucheron logs. As for that Hungy cheese...I'm ashamed to confess that I don't know it, and my shame is doubly intense because I am both a cheese freak who should know and also because my family comes from Hungary on one side. Geez. That does it: Gotta go back to Hungary. Until then, anybody got a suggestion?
Del Ray, Va.:
I would love to know what you think of the Charles Shaw!
Michael Franz: OK! All of this goes back to a tip from someone very dear to me who was served the stuff in CA for Christmas dinner; in CA, Trader Joe's actually sells it for 1.99. She had the Sauvignon Blanc, and had both the good humor to be amused by the "Two Buck Chuck" tag and the good palate to be utterly repelled by the wine. Then, somebody asked about it on this show two weeks ago, and my friend obliged by bringing all the current releases to a dinner. And, though the Sauvignon Blanc was indeed hideously sweet, the Chardonnay tasted like Chardonnay (and I've had worse...far worse..for $10), the Cab tasted like Cab, and the Merlot was, well, pretty damned good! Trader Joe's in VA is selling them for something like $3.79 (anybody know for sure?), but even at that price the Chard, Cab and Merlot are worth a try!
Sacramento, Calif.:
Michael:
You answered an earlier question about the Wine Expo. That questioner also asked if there was a less expensive version/similar wine to the Guigal 2000 Chatenuef-du-Pape at $29/bottle. I'm interested myself.
Michael Franz: Geez...sorry! Damn right there are less expensive wines in the same style, from the same grapes, made in the same region, and I've already submitted a story on them to be published on February 12. They are: Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, and single-village wines from the Cotes du Rhone-Villages AOC. Some great wiens are out there from 1998, 1999, and 2000...so stay tuned for specifics!
Pinot Noirs:
Michael-- Being a relitively new wine drinker (at 23), I have just discovered Pinot Noirs. I had glass of, I believe, Benton Lane (?) at a restaurant recently, but even taking into account extreme restaurant inflation, I think it is out of my price range. Anything you can suggest in the 12-15 dollar range? Also, I thought I heard that certain French wines are soley, if not entirelly, Pinot Noirs. What are these? Many Thanks!
Michael Franz: A kindred spirit! Try Villa Mount Eden from CA (about $12) and Firesteed from Oregon (about the same) and Kenwood from the Russian River alley in Sonoma for about $15-$16. Any yes, wines from all the appellations in Burgundy's Cote d'Or are made--by law--entirely from Pinot Noir. Careful, though, about just getting red wien from Burgundy...since this can also include teh evil Gamay that is the source of Beaujolais. Let's see if that gets a rise out of anybody....
Missouri:
I received the following wines as a wedding gift and am having difficulty finding reviews of them. Have you tried any of the following and, if so, how long would you store them (proper cellar):
1999 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon;
2000 Pride Merlot;
2000 Chase Zinfandel; and
2001 Rochioli Sonoma Chardonnay.
Thanks, Norton
Michael Franz: Chappellet Cab can be superb, and ageworthy; Pride Merlot is excellent (both of these are mountain wines, from opposite sides of the Napa Valley), Chase Zin is utterly unknown to me, and Rochioli's wines are usually very good, though it is Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot for which they are most famous. Cheers!
Arlington, Va.:
I'm looking for a class to learn about wine and about pairing food with wine. What I have in mind is a class that would meet, say, six or eight times with more or less the same group of people attending each glass. Am not looking for romance--just camaraderie, a good time. Also, I'm very much a novice, if that makes a difference. Do you or any of the other participants have a recommendation for where I might find such a class? Thanks.
Michael Franz: What's wrong with romance? Anyway, I'm afraid that I don't know of anybody running anything with this format, but perhaps someone else willl...anybody?
Bethesda, Md.:
Michael,
It's a friend's 40th birthday and I was thinking of buying him a bottle of port in the $25-30 range. However, I know very little about port, other than that he likes it. Can you help me navigate the shelf at the wine shop? What's ruby as opposed to tawny? What is the Portuguese designation for dry as opposed to sweet? And can you recommend a bottle in that price range? Thanks.
Michael Franz: In that range, there's no question that I'd buy 10 year-old aged Tawny from a house like Dow, Graham, Taylor or Fonseca. The wines are mature enough to drink right away, and will hold up after opening for several weeks. They can be quite complex, as the wines have matured in oak for most of their lives, and can be quite wonderful without breaking the bank.
Washington, D.C.:
Two part question:
First, how do you know if a bottle of wine is bad or just not to your liking? -- I'm thinking about issues of taste and also cork problems.
Secondly, what is the etiquette re: returning vad wine -- obviously it has already been opened and is it usually the store, the importer, or the producer who is to blame?
Michael Franz: The first issue comes down to experience, as only an experienced taster can know whether a particular bottle is a lousy rendition of Zinfandel or whether he/she just doesn't like Zin, based on prior attempts with a range of styles. Cork taint from trichloranisole is a separate issue, though again, only relatively experienced tasters know the distinctive smell of TCA, whereas others are forced to wonder whether the wine is just flat and lifeless. Second, the blame for SPOILED wine can rest with either the store, the importer or the producer, and likewise any of these three can be innocent, since one of the other two may be to blame. Consequently, it is a matter of discretion for them to take back something you thought bad or didn't like. As for etiquette, you need to decide whether the wine is probably bad/spoiled (in which case I'd try to return it) or just not to your taste (in which case I think it best to chalk it up to...experience).
Michael Franz: Yikes! Out of time! Sorry if I couldn't get to your question; please try again on 2/12. Until then, don't drink too much Two Buck Chuck, and stay warm!
washingtonpost.com:
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