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The Grapevine
Hosted by Michael Franz
Special to the Washington Post
Wednesday, Feb. 13, 2002; Noon EST
Every other Wednesday at Noon EST, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz was online for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz, who says he's been "drinking wine for 20 years and intently studying it for 13 years," regularly conducts public tastings for the Washington Wine Academy. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
The transcript follows -- enjoy the oenological banter.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things vinous. The basic idea for the show is that you submit any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines. Please don’t be offended if I can’t get to your question during the hour, as there are almost always more than I can manage…and today there are quite a few in the hopper. Keep trying!
Good News: Two weeks from today, the Post will debut expanded coverage in the Food section. My colleague Ben Giliberti and I will get notably more space with which to work, making it possible for us to include new and different elements from week to week (e.g., recommended food pairings for recommended wines, tips on special bottlings, Q&A exchanges with readers, etc.) or to stretch out when the subject at issue demands. With that in mind, I hope that some of you who participate regularly in this show will send questions or comments, ideas for elements you’d like to see included, notice of especially worthy wines, and the like. You can either send them in during this show (I’ll occasionally pull some of our exchanges into the print column) or to my e-mail (mfranz@loyola.edu). Granting that I about as biased as it is possible to be, I believe that the Post is already providing some of the best wine coverage available from a newspaper anywhere in the world, and I hope that you’ll help us to take it to new heights.
More Good News: I should have an opportunity to meet many of you for the first time at the Washington D.C. International Wine Festival on Saturday, March 2. (The Post is the principal sponsor for this two-day event, which is yet another indication of the Post’s intention to give more prominent play to fine wine.) I’ll have to cram all my participation into the first of the two days, but I hope you’ll say hello at one of the seminars that I’ll be moderating (South African Wines at 11:30 a.m., high-end Gems from Italy at 2:00, or Food-and-Wine Pairing with several local chefs at 4:00 on the main demonstration stage). I’ll also spend some time at the Post’s booth, which may be the best place to stop by to introduce yourself. You’ll know me instantly: I’ll be the guy with the purple teeth (unless I have the presence of mind to bring along my pocket toothbrush!). These times are corrected from what you’ll find if you received the mailing from the organizers. Also, I’m told that the brochure refers to me as “Michael Weiss” at one point, which doesn’t particular bother me except that we hockey players aren’t too keen about being confused with figure skaters.
Wine Find: Two shows ago I dropped a hint about a dynamite Syrah from Chile, and here are the particulars: Errazuriz Aconcagua Valley Don Maximano Estate Syrah Reserva 1999, which is a complete steal even when priced at $25. This wine results from a joint venture (of some sort…these cooperative arrangements can have widely varying structures) between the families of Robert Mondavi and Vina Errazuriz. The results are smashing: Massively concentrated but beautifully proportioned and balanced, the wine shows explosive berry fruit with the faintest earthiness and just the right framing from oak (which is 50% French and 50% American, with 25% new barrels). The texture is very soft, with lots of ripe tannins, and though the wine is capable of developing additional complexities for another decade, I found it so difficult to resist that I had to follow my very occasional practice of dumping it out…lest I polish it off and impair my critical faculties. Really remarkable stuff…and there is every reason to believe that Chile can make many more wines like this from Syrah at reasonable prices.
Oregon Pinot Notes: If you saw today’s print edition, you know that I had to omit tasting notes for the recommended 1999 and 2000 Pinots from Oregon. I’ve got notes ready to go if you have a question about a particular wine, so just let me know. It will be awfully nice to have more space in the Food section!
So…after all of that…on to your questions!
Los Angeles, Calif.:
I'm learning so much from these chats! My first V-day with my sweetie. Would like to start a tradition of buying a bottle each year to drink either next year or in five years. Any suggestions on a Cab that would age in either of these time periods? I'm not made of $$, so a reasonable price is important. Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hi there LA! Thanks for joining us. I like your idea, and I've got a great wine for you too, which is the sibling of the Syrah recommended above: Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 1999, which is also priced at $25. It is just as good as the Syrah if not as newsworthy, and it would be great either in a year or in five.
Hey, can you answer a question for us? I once heard (maybe five years ago) that one out of every ten bottles of wine consumed in the USA is consumed in LA County. Can you confirm or deny? We are already jealous of your weather, so we need to know!
Annapolis, Md.:
I would welcome suggestions for a nice wine to serve during a special dinner that will feature Roast Pork Tenderloin with Pears and Dried Apricots (the sauce is slightly spicy).
Michael Franz: Easy! Pinot Noir for a red, and Rielsing or Pinot Gris for a white. On the Pinot side, I'd go with a California bottling (like, say, Cambria Julia's Vyd.), sinc ethe impression of sweetness that they carry (mentioned in today's article) is going to be very useful as a foil to the sweetness in your pears and apricots. For Riesling, almost any slightly off-dry German will be great (try Hans Lang Charta...yum!), and a great Pinot Gris would be Chehalem Oregon 2000, a killer wine at $18 (and which stuck out like a sore thumb when I was blind tasting in the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition last month...I voted it a gold medal in both rounds...the best made in America).
Washington, D.C.:
Michael--
Do you have an opinion of the government-owned wine stores in Montgomery County. Their prices seem pretty good.
Michael Franz: I beg to differ, as I find the prices rarely competitive with D.C. stores, and find the selection quite poor. Sorry to be contrary!
Washington, D.C.:
Thanks so much for these informative chats! A question about the longevity of New Zealand sauvignon blancs: I have recently seen bottles of Cloudy Bay 1997 on sale. Do you think that they are beyond their prime at this point? Thanks!
Michael Franz: I would certainly like to try one of those for academic purposes, but there is no doubt in my mind that you should apply your funds toward the 2000 or 2001, reagardless of what they are selling the 1997s for. Those wines can hold...but they DO NOT improve (nor are they intended to do so), so it would probably be a mistake to succumb to the price-based temptation.
Annandale, Va.:
I'm very happy that you guys will be getting more print space! My suggestion is that you try to suggest wines to pair with the recipes included in the food section. This would be most helpful!
Thanks.
Michael Franz: I quite agree, and have been hoping to do that for some time. We're already heading in that direction...send more ideas!
Washington, D.C.:
Former student here! My Loyola poli sci degree landed me a job at a small non-profit. We are having a birthday party themed fundraiser where birthday cake and wine will be served. Both the cake and the wine will be donated. Any suggestions on a combination of wine and cake that we should request?
Michael Franz: Hi there! I'm sure that your Loyola poli sci degree will soon have you moving from your small non-profit to rulership of a small island nation, and from there...who knows?
Wine and cake are tough...fruit-based pies and tarts are easier, as there's no icing and the fruit can work with several wines. But, if we must "let them eat cake," try to get relatively plain cheesecake and serve it with a not-overpoweringly-sweet wine like a fine German Auslese. Ace Beverage by American U. typically has nice Rieslings...ask for Joe Reilly.
New York, N.Y.:
Hi Michael,
A comment and 2 questions:
Thanks for NOT mentioning Mark
Vlossak's Oregon winery in your article
today! The less people know about his
always sold out wines the more available
for people like me on the east coast!
...do you think Oregon Pinot Noirs are
improving these past few years due to a
string of good weather, or is it better wine
making and experience? And, my wife and I are visiting the
Willamette Valley in May. Any suggestions
for wine friendly/great food restaurants in
between Portand and Eugene?
Thanks!
Michael Franz: Lots of Oregon wineries have qutie small productions, so this is actually a fairly chronic problem. It is also a reason why the wines tend to be more expensive than their CA counterparts...the producers don't enjoy the economies of scale that advantage many CA producers.
2nd Q first: Sorry, I've only been to Oregon twice, and though I had some good meals in Portland, don't recall anything celestial in the wine country. That has undoubtedly changed, so you might ask wineries for recommendations when you call to make appointments.
On rising quality: There is no doubt that excellent weather is the principal difference between, say, the 1999s and the wines from 1996 and 1997. Still, Oregon producers have really worked hard to tweak their viticultural and winemaking techniques, so both factors are working to enhance quality.
Washington, D.C.:
What wines stores in the area would you recommend for moderately priced South African reds? I work next to Calvert Woodley but my friend/salesman says he does not have anything good to sell in the $10-14 range. Where else could I go?
Thanks for the chats and congrats on the expanded coverage.
Michael Franz: I'm sorry to confess that I'm out of the loop on who is carrying a good selection from SA. Can anybody out there help?
Cupertino, Calif.:
Would like to add my $0.02 to the recent discussion on Pinot Noirs. I have found a remarkably good, reasonably priced & generally available California PN that comes as close to tasting like anything from Burgundy as any American PN I've tasted...the Navarro PN "Méthode à l`Ancienne", which lists for $19/bottle & can be found for less at most retailers, at least out here.
Michael Franz: Hi, thanks for joining in. I love Navarro wines (often the best Gewurztraminer made in the USA...only Lazy Creek, which is also made in Mendocino, poses a challenge), but I'm not getting samples these days from the winery, and the local wholesaler didn't submit the wine for consideration. We try hard to recommend wines that can be restocked from the local wholesale level so that readers don't become frustrated and blow up our homes.
Alexandria, Va.:
Michael,
Love your chats and have a question about pairing:
I made up a chicken and spicy sausage dish the other day, and was pointed to a French Madiran by the clerk at Rick's. The pairing, which initially made me nervous, turned out to be amazing...one of the best I've had. The bad news is, they're out of it now.
What to do?
Thanks for the help.
Michael Franz: Well, most Madiran is based on the Tannat grape, which isn't easy to find but happens to be grown at Chrysalis right near us in Loudoun County VA, and I believe also by Horton near Charlottesville. Give 'em a call and see if they've got something for you to try!
Oregon restaurants:
The Ponzi family opened a restaurant in Dayton that's on the main drag that's good. I ate there about a year ago. It is in the same building as their tasting room (this is not the same site as the winery). There was also a very good restaurant in Dayton in a 1920s bungalow that's excellent. Those may seem like vague directions, but Dayton is so small there's only one main street and perhaps 10 businesses total.
Michael Franz: Thank you! The Ponzis are very nice people whose wine sing almost every year, so I'd be strongly inclined to trust them on the food front as well.
Salt Lake City, Utah:
Unfortunately the wine pickings are awfully slim out here. Is the 2000 Ponzi Pinot Noir worth picking up? I checked and the state wine store (oh so many things wrong with that phrase) only has the 2000 and not the 1999 you recommended.
Thanks.
Michael Franz: Yep, go for it!
New York, N.Y.:
Thanks for making yourself available. It's great to have an expert's brain to pick. Have you ever had a 1997 Charles de Laroy? My wife and I really enjoyed it (especially for the price), but I've heard that 1997 was not a great year for Bordeaux. Also, I received a 1999 Chateau Beaucastel as a Christmas gift. Can I drink this now, or should I wait? Sorry to sneak in 2 questions. Thanks so much!
Michael Franz: Never heard of the Charles de Laroy...so much for your kind words about me being an expert! Actually, I NEVER refer to myself that way; I'll always be a student of wine, as there is much more to learn than I'll ever manage to assimilate.
I can do better on that Beaucastel: Hold it for 5 years if you can; drink it with a nice leg of lamb if you can't hold out!
Silver Spring, Md.:
Dr. Franz: We are planning a trip to Sicily in April, are there any good wines available?
Michael Franz: First I'm an expert, now I'm a Dr.; I'm at risk of exploding with hubris! (Actually, for those of you who don't know, my daughter will tell you that I'm not a REAL doctor, but rather a mere Ph.D.)
Sicily has some very nice wines grown at altitude at various point on the island. You'll find a story on wines from Sicily and Sardinia that was published earlier this year in the archives; look for the pointer at the top of this show.
Los Angeles, Calif.:
Re: Oregon Dining. In Portland, try not to miss Paley's Place (it made Parker's 10 best meals of 2000, among other accolades) and Cafe Azul. In the Willamette Valley, I had an incredible meal at Red Hills Provincal Dining (2 years later the memory of the blood orange sorbet still makes me smile). The January issue of Gourmet had a great rundown of Portland/Willamette restaurants, if you can find it.
Michael Franz: Still more help...thank you!
Columbia, Md.:
A thank-you and a question.
First, thank you for recommending all those lovely Oregon Pinot Noirs. I can't wait to try them! I first tried the Adelsheim after your Thanksgiving recommendation and it is a favorite (just gave a bottle to a friend for her 50th birthday in fact).
Now, the question. My fiance and I will be honeymooning in Napa. Since we will have limited space to bring back wine we were hoping to focus on wines we can't get here. So how do we find that out? Can we just ask at the Vineyards if they distribute in Maryland? Is it an affront to then say "Oh, good. Well, we'll buy your wines there, then!" We just want to save our space for the few gems (like very small vineyards) that are out of our reach once we get back.
Thank you!
Michael Franz: Hi..congratulations on your impending wedding. And as for Adelsheim, the 2000 may be even better than the stellar 1999; it has phenomenal purity and grace, and you really must try a bottle.
In Napa: It is NOT bad form to ask about distribution in our area. Distributors are the prime customers of most wineries (excepting those that sell most of their production off of their mailing list), so they are happy to give you the word. BTW: This is also the reason why you'll almost never get the wines cheaper on site: The producers don't want to undercut their distributors.
Rockville, Md.:
Hi Michael,
I enjoyed your article on OR PN. Some of the wine prices shown seemed to be in the same range as Burgundy wines. Would you say that if one is willing to spend say $35-50, one will get better value with a Burgundy? If so, can you suggest some? Thanks
BTW, I tried the very reasonably priced 2000 Terra Unica Tempranillo and really enjoyed it.
Cheers
Michael Franz: Below $20, I'd look to California; between $20 and $30, I'd still be tuned into CA but start looking to Oregon; at about $40, Burgundy would come into play, and above $60, I'd buy probably buy nothing from anywhere but Burgundy.
New Market, Ala.:
I would ask your opinion of the latest things I have been reading about red wines which are beneficial for certain type medical conditions. I believe that high cholesterol, high blood pressure etc, was mentioned in what I have read. I've never drank wine, but would sip a glass if it would beneficial to my health. I am a 69-year-old male. I have type II diabetes, HBP, and high chlorestol. Thanks
Michael Franz: Hi there,
As noted above, I'm not REAL doctor, so I really hesitate to answer your question. I think your diabedes may come into play, and would recommend that you check with your physician. I would check for you, but my good friend Michael Apstein (who IS a real doctor, and who writes on wine for The Boston Globe) is tasting in Australia at the moment (maybe I should say, "former friend"). One of these days, I'll have him join in on one of these shows, and we'll do a special on wine and health. Sorry that I can't help more, but I don't want to undermine what little credibility I've built up!
Arlington, Va.:
G’day mate -- thanks for wonderful reviews of Oregon Pinot Noirs, wines from my homeland! Where within, say, 30 miles can I find a good selection? My wife's Valentine could be especially relished this year.
Michael Franz: At the retail level, the guy who was out in from on Oregon was Allan Murphy (sp?), formerly of Calvert Woodley in D.C. but now at MacArthur Beverages. I'd just bet that he's got a great selection, and I suspect that Schnider's on Capitol Hill is pretty strong too.
Washington, D.C.:
Michael:
Nutritionally speaking, is wine "empty calories"? (Don't worry; I'm not going to stop drinking if the answer is yes).
Michael Franz: No; those calories are full of fun and high civilization!
Chantilly, Va.:
Hi Michael,
Adding to the question of the Napa-honeymooning couple - I plan to go to Washington State in May and bring back some wines. How many bottles can I "reasonably" bring back to VA without being "illegal"?
Michael Franz: Jeez, as a chronic scofflaw, I'm completely in the dark about this, but I suspect that the limits run state-by-state. Anybody in VA know the answer for your jurisdiction?
Washington, D.C.:
Where would one find the wonderfully described Syrah at the top of this chat in the DC area?
Michael Franz: Sorry that I can't help on that, but your retailer should be able to ckeck if the wine has come into the area. I got my sample from Mondavi in CA. The wine is...I assure you...worth a search!
Re: Arlington, Va. guy looking for OR Pinot:
I'd check Arrowine in Arlington, or Cecile's Fine Wine in McLean.
Michael Franz: Great...thanks for the help!
Washington, D.C.:
A recent NY Times article noted the happy coincidence that many of the world's wine regions are located in the world's most beautiful places. (The author picked Mendoza Argentina as best.) In your experience, which wine region(s) would you place at the top?
Michael Franz: Mendoza is not wrong, but neither is it alone at the top: Central Otago, New Zealand; Stellenbosch, South Africa; Alsace and Bandol in France; Alto Adige in Italy, and the Duoro in Portugal are all compeititive....
Lothian, Md.:
The Firesteed Pinot is wonderful! Bought a bottle a few weeks ago (prior to your first mention of it) only because it was inexpensive -- what a treat! (BTW -- I purchased at a couple of dollars less than you listed).
Michael Franz: Delighted to learn that you liked it. Also: I always list the price at full markup for the retailer, to cover the mom-and-pop operations. With some effort, you can often save a few bucks.
Washington, D.C.:
Michael,
I had a Calera Central Coast PN a while back and thought it resembled the burgandian version. Thoughts?
Michael Franz: You were lucky, or the wine was more than a few years old, or the wine had brettanomyces (a rogue yeast that lends earthy character). I almost never find anything that resembles true Burgundian character, and though the standard tasting room spiel is that "our Pinots are crafted in a Burgundian style...," this is very rarely the actual truth.
Arlington, Va.:
Great news on the Post giving you guys more space. Query: I have several bottles of 1984 Ch. Montelena Cab Sav I bought when it was released. Should I drink it all up now?
Michael Franz: Dig in...I know that wine, and if you've got cool storage it will still be fantastic...but it isn't likely to get any better and may already be in decline.
Washington, D.C.:
I am going on a short business trip to Cape Town later this month. Any suggestions for great wine to pick up -- particularly something you can't easily get over here (not more than $30 a bottle please!).
Michael Franz: Meerlust Reserve Pinot Noir...clearly the best Pinot made on the African continent!
Denver, Colo.:
Champagne (or should I say sparkling wine?) for Valentine's Day is the perfect thing for my sweetie. Cost effective (Sub-$35 ish) would be nice as well. Furthermore, as we do have to go to work on Friday, being available in a half bottle would be nice.
I've found the perfect option on all accounts, and have enjoyed it several times already and am looking for diversity. Gruet Brut N/V, from New Mexico of all places is tasty and cheap, and available in splits.
I've also got my eye on Nicolas Feuillate Premier Cru Brut Rose, which is pricier thought may fill the bill. Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
Michael Franz: I love the Gruet, esp. the Blanc de Noirs. However, sparkling wines are the only type for which I do NOT recommend half-bottles. The reason: They are too small for the second fermentation to be performed in the bottle you buy, so the wine must be poured into it from some larger vessel. The wines do not age well in half bottles, and almost all authorities on the subject agree that the perfect size for sparklers is the magnum. Since Gruet happens to make the Blanc de Noirs in magnums, the call is clear in your case: Buy a magnum and blow off work on Friday!
Michael Franz: Aaargh! Out of time with 4o questions to go! Sorry, but I've typed my little fingers to the bone. Please send in more questions and ideas when we next crank up The Grapevine in two weeks, same time, same site. Until then, Cheers!
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