The Flight Crew: Back row, from left: Gary Lee, Andrea Sachs, Steve Hendrix, John Deiner; Front row: Danielle Seiss, Cindy Loose, K.C. Summers. (Melissa Cannarozzi for The Post)

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The Flight Crew: Greetings, everyone, and welcome to our last travel chat before the holidays! This is K.C. Summers, your captain du jour, with a mostly full Crew on board: assistant editor John Deiner, staff writers Steve Hendrix and Cindy Loose, copy editor Andrea Sachs, editorial aide Anne McDonough and airfare guru Carol Sottili -- all only slightly disheveled after our Travel section holiday get-together this weekend. Folks, you haven't lived till you've seen John in a lampshade, reciting the TSA's list of banned carry-on items completely from memory. And Steve's Rick Steves impersonation -- priceless.

Since we're dark Dec. 23 and 30, today's question is about New Year's -- specifically, what your New Year's travel resolution is for 2003. Fill in the blank: In 2003, I resolve ______________________. Keep 'em short and we'll get post as many resolutions as we can. Also, feel free to opine on what you think travel providers, airlines, Internet sites, etc., should resolve, to make all our lives easier. Best answer wins a prize from our Big Box o' Promotional Junque: a tasteful travel journal, a pair of blue flipflops or a leather billford (quite nice, actually).

So let's get this crate in the air.

Flying home for Christmas: My husband and I are flying to California for Christmas later this week. We're bringing presents on the plane and we're wondering if we should leave them unwrapped due to security concerns?

The Flight Crew: Do not wrap presents. Chances are they could be opened, and the feds are specifically requesting that packages not be wrapped. (Cindy)

Reservation rudeness: I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this. Called a D.C. hotel on Friday to see if they had New Years packages. I live in Arlington but thought it would be nice to spend the night in a nice hotel. I get quoted a price that's good but wanted to run the place by my boyfriend. Called back today to make the reservation and the price had gone up a lot. When I asked why such a big jump, the woman got really rude. I had considered making the reservation anyway, but the rudeness turned me off big time. They've lost a possible future customer. Do I write a note? Just let it slide? I understand this is a busy season but I was polite...why can't they be?

Thanks.

The Flight Crew: And what hotel was that, RR?

Annandale, Va.: Hello,

Can anyone suggest a particularly good hotel to stay in for a honeymoon in Greece? Specifically Santorini and Mykonos.

Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Hi Ann(andale), Anne here. Gary, our Greece expert, isn't in today, and also focused on islands other than Santorini on his recent trip. So, this question's getting sent out to all you folks out there who may have some good advice for these honeymooning folks. Chime on in...

Washington, D.C.: What's the best way to get a relatively cheap direct flight to Rome? After some informal Web surfing, it appears that flying out of New York City or Newark would increase my chances. (I really hate to fly, so a direct flight is key.) Thanks so much!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Alitalia just sent me an e-mail about a sale out of either Newark or JFK (it flies nonstop from both airports to Rome). Give it a look at www.alitalia.com.

McLean, Va.: What is the CURRENT attitude of the major airlines, such as American or United, with regard to a round-trip excursion (electronic) ticket that is not used on the return portion? My son's family bought excursion R-T's in good faith, but now have a different mode of return -- and the published one-way is significantly higher than the excursion R-T.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: It's a no-no, but I haven't heard of the airlines coming down on people who do it. Travel agents can get nailed if the airlines find a pattern, but I think you're okay as individuals, especially since this is a one-shot deal.

Arlington, Va.: Hi Crew,

I recently did something that I NEVER do, which is purchase a package vacation from an airline. I bought a package from AA Vacations for air and hotel to London in February. It was around $950 for two people -- airfare and three nights at a Thistle Hotel -- the one near the Tower of London.

I hate to even ask now, but is this a good deal? I felt like it would really be a crap shoot waiting. I looked at fares seperately for that time and they were all in the $400 range (or high $300) but I know that fares sometimes drop dramatically after the new year. Please tell me that I didn't just do something terrible! And do you know anything about that hotel?!

Also, how cheap are taxis in London? I'll need to get back from a concert hall to my hotel late one night, and was wondering if it will cost me an arm and a leg.

The Flight Crew: Breathe deep, you did great--though you didn't say when you were going as prices are usually cheaper off season, but even then for $400 apiece, it's a good, no-planning-involved vacation. And AA Vacations is very reliable.
As for cabs, and everything else in London, it's expensive. So maybe you should get yourself a Tube (subway) map and learn the grid. It'll be much cheaper.
Thistle is a giant chain, much like, say, Hilton or Marriott. They are good properties, in good location, with good amenities, just all around good. (I have nothing bad or negative to say: You did good!) --andrea

Washington, D.C.: Here's my holiday travel hint to help decompress at National Airport. If you're waiting for a flight or for arriving guests, take the time to walk to the original terminal, up a short flight of stairs to the Museum. There's a neat videotape of the airport with old newsreels back to the 1940s, artifacts from Capital Airlines, and also stuff excavated from nearby Abingdon Plantation. I liked the old photograph of the Eastern Airlines shuttle -- hourly flights to Philadelphia! The waiting room looked like it had about 15 seats, which was just the right size in those days.

Afterwards, grab a brochure about the artworks in the new terminal from the traveller's aid people, and take the time to check out each of the floor mosaics and the various wall works.

Question: What is there to see or do at Dulles that is in any way comparable? I've never even seen a plaque or photograph of J.F. Dulles, the honoree, or anything else of interest. Walking the length of the C/D terminal is good exercise, but a bit dull.

The Flight Crew: Hi Wash, KC here. That's a great tip for National -- I bet a lot of folks don't know about that little museum. While there isn't anything comparable at Dulles, there will be next year, when the Air & Space Museum's new facility to house its collection of historic aviation and space artifacts is opening in December 2003.

Washington, D.C.: In 2003, I resolve to wear khakis and comfortable loafers in Europe, pack black and grey mix-and-match clothes, and ditch the fanny pack and camera-around-the-neck.

The Flight Crew: On behalf of all the travelers of the world, thank you.

Madison, Va.: Hello, Crew. My boyfriend and I are planning on a drive between San Francisco and Yosemite, taking two weeks to explore vineyards, the Charles Schulz museum in Santa Rosa and of course, Yosemite, as well as hot spots in between. Trouble is, I've never been to California and we're going in October. Are there any special events happening in the region that we shouldn't miss? Any advice on traveling through that part of the state? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Anne here. Since you're not going until next October (I'm impressed with how far in advance you're planning this trip), make sure to check out the January 5th, 2003 issue of the Travel section to see the Flight Crew's roundup of festivals and activities world-wide. One advance tidbit: the Lone Pine Film Festival (in Lone Pine, Ca.), celebrating 80 years of films shot in the West, runs Oct. 23-25.

I don't know if you're huge outdoors types, but I did trail restoration work in Yosemite for a summer and absolutely fell in love with it--the first nature experience to turn this city girl into an outdoors person. So my advice would be to spend as much time in and around the park as possible. Make sure to limit your time in the overdeveloped Valley and head into Tuolumne Meadows. You won't regret it.

Any other suggestions for Madison, Va.? Send 'em on in...

I resolve....: ....to cast my fears aside and take a solo motorcycle trip through the deep South.

The Flight Crew: We hear you. Don't forget your Rod Steiger sunglasses.

Sterling, Va.: I've read your excellent past articles on Iceland, thanks. Any particular tips to visiting Iceland in January? A couple of friends and I are serious about going on a Thursday-Monday type trip. Will that be enough time?

Thanks!

The Flight Crew: It wouldn't be a bad idea of pack long underwear. (I have this fab brand called something like chlophyell bought in Canada) Some of the out-of-the-way places you could drive in even late spring may be closed to you, but there is plenty to do within a couple hours drive of the capital---and loads of groups that will pick you up at your hotel. The Blue Lagoon is at its finest when its really cold outside, otherwise you can't stand the heat. I think Thursday-Monday will give you a good taste of the place. But before you plunk down the money, check to see if the main things you want to be will be accessible. This is personal preferences, but if I were to go with you, I'd want to spend just the first day in the capital. My last night I'd spend near the Blue Lagoon (there is a minimal but clean hotel nearby by that name) Two days in between I'd go to Hvergarde, staying at Frost and Fire small hotel, and from there ride Icelandic ponies and get out for some snow experience, whether dog sledding or ski mobiling. Not so sure about driving your own car that time of year if you want to pack in alot of travel; you might be better off booking tours, or if you want a car, consider four wheel drive. But I think if you just travel between the capital and Hvergarde, even a regular car would be okay. (Cindy)

Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Crew. In the spring, my family plans on going to Jamaica for a five-night, all-inclusive vacation. There will be two seniors, three adults, and two children (under 7). I've heard that Negril and Ocho Rios are nice. Which offers the best value for the money? Also, will the prices be pretty low for March travel? Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I know that the Ritz Carlton in Montego Bay had some great all-inclusive deals, but I think they're expiring soon. Negril and Ocho Rios are both nice, but they're quite a hike from the airport, and the ride is a real chore - my then 75-year-old father-in-law said never again after enduring the trip a couple of years ago. If the seniors are not against a drive, a good place is Franklyn D. Resort in Runaway Bay, which is still a hike from the airport, but not as far as Ocho Rios. Each suite comes with its own nanny, which is great when you have little ones. Go to www.fdrholidays.com.

Washington, D.C.: Ms. Sachs -- Great job in comparing the rates for "Sending Your Gifts Ahead 101" -- and here are two thoughts.

If you are in that shrinking group of people who not only read books but also buy them as gifts, you can send them through the Post Office by "media mail" which is the cheapest of all.

The last time I looked, Amtrak had about six to eight trains daily to Boston -- so why does it take them seven to 10 days to ship a package to Boston? For that matter, why is Amtrak even in the cargo business? This sluggish rate suggests that they should stick to passengers.

The Flight Crew: Glad the piece was helpful, and thanks for the great suggestion on sending books (and maybe even CDs or DVDs, for that matter). As for Amtrak, well, they often don't put packages on the next outgoing train, or the most direct. Part of the deal, I guess, is that your gifts get a bonus tour of the country. Boston by way of Detriot, for example.--andrea

Silver Spring, Md.: Hey gang!

Going to be out in San Francisco next weekend for a wedding and have about 12 hours of free time. What's the one can't miss thing I need to do there?

The Flight Crew: Hi, SS.

I'm sure folks have lots of different opinions on this one, but I'm a big fan of Golden Gate Park and its attractions (the bison, windmill, planetarium, etc). It's easy to get to and can easily kill a few hours. If you want something really memorable, walk across the Golden Gate Bridge--its way cool, and free.

-john

Washington, D.C.: Hi Flight Crew,
Have you had any experience flying on AeroFlot to Moscow? I am hoping to visit a friend in Moscow next Spring (timing is flexible - April/May?) and she swears it is a great deal. Any other ideas of ways to get good flight prices for a group (less than 10 of us, probably at least 4 or 5 of us) to Moscow for a week? Thanks so much!!

The Flight Crew: People I know who've flown AeroFlot once say they'd never do it again. I've taken their advise, so haven't personally experienced it. I wish Gary Lee were here---he knows alot more specifics. In fact, since the trip isn't until Spring, I'd say to check back next chat to ask. In the meantime, since there is no chat next week, I'd check to see what consolidators have to offer. (Cindy)

Washington, D.C.: In the past, BWI had a "Gold" long-term parking lot open during the Holiday travel season. It was a bargain at something like $4 or $5 a day. Does it still exisit? Will they have it open this year?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: The gold lot is the overflow lot, which is used only when the other lots fill up. Hard to say whether they'll have it open this year. It's a good bet they will, but there is no guarantee.

Washington, D.C.: My wife and I are planning our first trip to Central America for Easter week. I would like to go to Guatemala for its combination of natural beauty, Mayan ruins and markets. But my wife is concerned about safety.

She would prefer a trip to Costa Rica, which is famous for its natural splendors, but, as far as I can tell, not much else. I'm worried about it being more of a one-note experience and also overly touristy.

Who is more right? Or should we be thinking instead about Honduras (or El Salvador, or wherever)?

Thanks for all the help you provide to wayward travelers like us.

The Flight Crew: Wash, we ran a story about Guatemala just a few weeks ago (link coming up) in which we quoted the usual State Department warnings about safety, but the writer noted that in all her five trips there, she'd had no trouble. You do have to take the usual precautions -- don't wear your good jewelry, use a money belt, don't travel alone at night, that kind of thing. Between the craft markets, ruins, history and natural beauty, it sounds like a winner.

Costa Rica's really a different experience, much more eco-oriented, and yes, probably more touristed. It's really your call. It may help you to go to the State Department's Web site and read the consular information sheets on each country, remembering that they tend to err on the side of caution.

Washington, D.C.: My travel New Year's resolution: Use my 138,000 United Frequent Flyer miles before they disappear!

That gets me one trip to Asia or the South Pacific, one trip to Europe or South America, and one trip to visit my parents in San Francisco.

The Flight Crew: We're jealous. And you're in the running for a prize.

Washinton, D.C.: Hotel question: Is it acceptable to rent a normal hotel room or suite in a nice hotel in D.C. and use it for a small New Year's Eve party?

The Flight Crew: I think that depends in part on how many people you're talking, how late they'll be, and how loud. I'd be upfront with the hotel and ask before making a reservation and taking the risk of having guests evicted. (Cindy)

Arlington, Va.: I resolve to visit one State that I haven't visited before. This year it was New Hampshire.

The Flight Crew: That's a good one, too. I (KC) was really surprised at its incredible beauty (dumb me). And I'm not even into scenery that much.

In 2003 I resolve to: travel to at least one new international destination (Greek isles, and Portugal are on the short list), and also fit in at least one "old faithful" (London, Paris, Madrid) just because visiting them makes me happy.

The Flight Crew: Both laudable ambitions. Thanks.

Washington, D.C.: Santorin--Hotel Katikies in Oia was just fabulous when we were there several years ago. The room "under" the pool is very private with, of course, a spectacular view.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, D.C. Any other ideas for honeymooners in Santorini or Mykonos?

Washington, D.C.: Dear Flight Crew,

I really need your help. My boyfriend and I are planning a trip to Lugano, Switzerland in March. Could you recommend a place where we can stay for a reasonable price. Also, when it's a good time to book the flight. Expedia has quoted a price out of IAD for $505 roundtrip which sounds like a reasonable price. My concern is would those tickets valid if the agency booked them from United (which has so many problems in the news lately)?

Thank you very much
Lisa

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: $505 sounds about right for March. I think United will be flying then. Most airlines that fly to Switzerland are not in perfect financial shape right now, so there's no sure thing. Even European carriers have problems with short-term labor srikes, etc. As for where to stay, I'm throwing that one out to our readers.

Washington, D.C.: I resolve to TAKE A BIKE TRIP THROUGH EUROPE!

I'd appreciate any tips and suggestions for tour operators or itineraries. If the bike trip doesn't happen, I resolve to travel to New Zealand or Australia!

The Flight Crew: Hey, keep an eye out because we're going to be doing an active Europe section next spring/summer, with lots of tips on that sort of thing. But clicksters, feel free to opine now if you have any suggestions for Wash.

Ballston, Va.: I resolve to travel to at least one location I never thought I would go to, not in a million years!

Hey, I just turned 40 and life is too short! I regret turning down opportunities to travel when younger to places "I wouldn't be caught dead" going to. Big mistake.

The Flight Crew: I sense a theme here...

Arlington, Va.: Heading to Houston out of National for a 10 a.m. flight on Saturday. Realistically, what time should we arrive? Also, are knitting needles OK to pack in my carry-on? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: The general advise is two hours, however, it depends so much on details unique to airlines and days that you should call the airline for their advise. Knitting needles have been a tough question. There is a list of prohibited and allowed items at www.tsa.gov. TSA I recall removed knitting needles from the prohibited list about 6 months ago, but I've since heard of people losing them at security checkpoints. I'd say take them, but take the least-threatening looking pair you have (i.e. shorter rather than longer), and be prepared for the 10 percent chance they could be confiscated (i.e. don't take the solid gold pair left by your great-grandmother.) Cindy

Wishing for Warm Weather, Washington, D.C.: We'd like to head somewhere warm in mid-February without breaking the bank, but it's of course peak rate time for Caribbean resorts. Any ideas on warm, affordable U.S./international destinations? Also, do you know of any airfare/vacation package sites that allow you to search by travel dates and price (rather than by destination) for a vacation?

The Flight Crew: Even though it's peak season for Carib travel, you can still get some bargain packages. Check out Apple Vacations, or resort deals in Punta Cana or other spots in the Dominican Republic or the Bahamas. Cheapcaribbean.com, for one, is offering $499 for three nights in the Bahamas, flying from BWI, till Feb. 13. Also check US Airways, AA Vacations, Air Jamaica and BWIA, as these airlines pull together tropical packages. If all else fails, there is always Florida (Miami has some good deals)or Mississippi.
For dates and prices listings, check such last-minute travel sites as 11th Hour Vacations, Site 59, etc.--andrea

Mt. Rainier, Md.: I resolve (being in my jubilee year) to travel every chance I get and to carefully anotate every day's adventures in a travel journal with details on all photos taken. (I'm a little obsessive around the edges)

The Flight Crew: That's a noble ambition. And you're still a whippersnapper, Mt. R.

At Work, Washington, D.C.: Hi, all --

My resolution for 2003 is to FINALLY take the trans-Canada train trip that should've been our honeymoon trip!

Having resolved that, does anyone have any tips for booking this trip? We'd like to travel in May 2003; The rail part seems easy enough online from ViaRail, but flying from Dulles to Vancouver and then from Toronto to Dulles has to be one of the bigger (and more expensive!) "open jaw" trips I've experienced.

Any suggestions on, say, a tour operator that might provide a better bargain for this package?

Thanks, and happy holidays!

The Flight Crew: Oh, us too. As for specifics, anybody got answers for At?

Annandale to Grand Canyon: Good afternoon everyone,

I am hoping you can help me. I just got a wedding invitation to go to the Grand Canyon (South Rim) on Wed May 7th. Do you know of any good places to stay out there, (maybe near the Rim). Also, in regard to flying out there, I would like to fly out of National or Dulles. Do you have a recommendation and to what airport I fly to? I have never been there and have no idea what I am doing.

The Flight Crew: Hi, Ann. Good questions, both.

Definitely try to stay inside the park--I've been there in early May, and it's fantastic. The crowds are light and the weather is perfect. Just check www.nps.gov/grca; there's a wealth of information about lodging. Beware that some of the accommodations are nicer--or at least more interesting--than others. The El Tovar is the jewel on the South Rim; if you stay there, ask for an upper-floor room (it'll be much more quiet). My favorite place to stay are the cabins at Bright Angel Lodge; if you're lucky you can get one right near the rim, but even ones off the rim are pretty darned wonderful--and cheap.

As far as flying, the nearest airport is in Flagstaff, but you'll probably find much cheaper fares flying into Phoenix, a few hours away. Both DCA and Dulles offer flights to Phoenix.

-john

Los Angeles, Calif.: Going to Napa/Sonoma for a few days. Staying at a B and B in Calistoga. Worth it to take the waters in Calistoga, or is time and money better spent at wineries. Any must-see wineries? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: I love taking the waters in Calistoga. The spas there are really unpretentious--to me a welcome respite, to some I suppose too little luxury. Consider taking the volcanic mud baths, which are followed by shower (the mud gets everywhere), followed by herbal bath, followed by massage. YOu'll never feel better. Cindy As to must-see wineries: there are so many good ones; I just stop at the big stone ones that look appealing. But do clicksters have favorites? Cindy

Just back from Paris (sigh): I'm the poster who wrote looking for reviews on Villa Alessandra in the 17th in Paris. We did end up staying there, and loved it. The rooms were a good size, with a queen-size bed (!), and everything was tastefully decorated, clean, and amazingly smoke-free (was expecting the worst). The location was convenient despite not being in the middle of everything. The Ternes metro stop was a two-block walk, and the CDG-Etoile stop (major transfer station) was a 10-minute walk. The area was upper-middle-class residential, with plenty of shops and restaurants nearby. We especially enjoyed our twice-daily walks through the Marche Bayen-Poncelet, which was adjacent to the hotel. It was great to see all of the wonderful produce/meats/seafood and how the French people really do buy their food fresh each day. Staying there gave us a taste of how the Parisians live, without being too far from the touristy areas.

As for the 2003 travel resolution -- never flying Delta again. They had us on a plane with mechanical problems, but delayed cancelling the flight in blatant hope that the weather at our destination would worsen to the point where they could make it a weather-related cancellation and laugh at us for having to stay in the airport (happened earlier in the day). By the time they cancelled, it was too late to reaccomodate us and they ended up putting us on a flight to D.C. (two hours away). Never again.

The Flight Crew: Trip sounds great. Flight -- our sympathies.

Washington, D.C.: In 2003, I resolve to tune in to the travel chat each week.

The Flight Crew: Aww. A special prize for you. Send your info to summersk@washpost.com and we'll pull something out of the grab bag for you.

Washington, D.C.: I flew Aeroflot last year to India via Moscow. You can't get seats assigned ahead of time, there is smoking on board, and the flight left about four hours late. However, the plane took off and landed without crashing and saved me several hundred dollars. The D.C.-Moscow flights are on Boeings. The Bombay-Moscow flights are on Russian planes. If it saved me a couple hundred dollars or allowed a conventient schedule, I'd fly it again. Aeroflot allowed an open jaw of Delhi and Bombay without charge, which was nice. For me, I would have to save at least $250 before I flew them again but would not hesitate at that point. I did buy travel insurance.

The Flight Crew: It's always a good flight when the plane doesn't crash. We're glad you came back to us, and with a ringing endorsement. I guess. Cindy

Virginia: Any suggestions on activities and restaurants for two non-skier 50-somethings in Aspen next week while our teenagers are in ski school? We have been there before, and plan to repeat a guided nature walk on showshoe. Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: A guided nature walk on snowshoes sounds wonderful. You can also dog-sled, ice-skate, go tubing, cross-country ski, see live theater and shop. Info: www.aspensnowmass.com.

Washington, D.C.: I was going thru some documents and found over $100 worth of lira (at the old exchange rate). Is there any place in D.C. to exchange these for Euros?

The Flight Crew: Thomas Cooke was doing it; give them a call first to make sure if it's out of your way, but I'm pretty sure. (Cindy)

Boston, Mass.: My new years travel resolution: to actually do what everyone says and use a money belt in paris, so as to avoid having my wallet taken right out of my (front) pocket in the metro. It really does happen!!

Still had a great trip though; I love Paris.

The Flight Crew: Great that you can still say that. Thanks.

Northern Virginia: Hi Flight Crew. Generally speaking, with air temperatures in the high 70's, will the ocean near Miami be warm enough to swim in during early January? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Hi, NoVa. According to the National Oceanic Data Center, the water temps near Miami average about 71 degrees in January--plenty warm enough for swimming.

-john

Arlington, Va.: 2003 Travel Resolution: I resolve not to wear a baseball hat and sweatsuit when I travel, regardless of the hair-hiding and comfort factor and will look presentable when I travel. I also resolve to maintain the same high-quality level of packing during my trip that I started off with. Too often, I begin to slack off and what was barely wrinkled at the start ends up in a twisted heap halfway through the trip, requiring more time getting it straightened out.

The Flight Crew: Black knit, I tell you, black knit.

Stanton Park, Washington, D.C.: For the San Francisco wedding goer: Take the Fire Engine Tour of San Francisco. The company owns a 1950's open-top fire engine, cloth all the participants on Fire Department outfits (for warmth), and drive you around town and across the Golden Gate Bridge for about $ 25/ person. We were a bit sceptical first, but it was great fun, by far the best city tour I have ever taken. While you are looking at the attractions, you are also an attraction for passers-by.

The tour departs from Ghirardelli Square.

The Flight Crew: Cool idea. Thanks SP.

Boston, Mass.: Unused return -- the airlines do appreciate it if you phone and let them know you won't be using the seats (they can sell to others / let standbys on earlier). This has (unintentionally) happened to me twice -- the first, I was actually able to use the return six months later (but that was three years ago); this summer, I just lost the flight, but no problem.

Resolutions: I resolve to pack more lightly whenever I travel.

Travel resolutions: Airlines should provide to make their gates / leg room / food(!) as good for "regular" flights as on shuttles (flew usair to national and delta to la guardia recently).

-Unlikely, but a girl can dream, right?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: You're a good person. But I'm afraid the airline could theoretically slap you with a one-way fare if you call them and tell them.

Washington, D.C.: Yesterday there was a letter about getting around for day-tripping out of Cancun -- that reader should consider renting a car -- driving around the Yucatan is safe and easy, and then you can get to the ruins at less busy times -- in the early a.m. or late afternoon, after the buses come and go. Happy holidays.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the tip.

Washington, D.C.: My friend and I (we are both single females) just got back from the Carribbean. As beautiful as its beaches were, it was hard to enjoy them since men stopped by our beach towels every 20 minutes to hit on/harass us. Polite requests to leave us alone were entirely ignored. Is this common? It got the point where it was just no longer fun. I rarely see this issue addressed in reviews of various islands.

The Flight Crew: That is so unfortunate, but sadly it happens all over--from Jamaica to Dewey Beach. You didn't say where you were, but for next time, you might want to stay at a hotel with a private beach and stay away from city/public beaches. (Ask the female concierge where she and her friends go.) Also, some islands are worse than others: The more upscale and remote ones, like Mystique or St. John's, will be safer bets. And if all else fails, bring along your bodyguard boyfriend named Hulk.--andrea

Bethesda, Md.: I'm thinking of a solo trip in Italy -- primarily the Cinque Terre and the usual -- Rome, Florence, Naples. I've heard many horror stories about robberies. As a woman are there precautions I should take in addition to the usual and is this safe and reasonable? Should I store money in different places and basically accept that I'll be robbed at some point?

The Flight Crew: Hi Bethesda, Anne here. Everyone has different comfort levels when it comes to safety, of course, but in roughly eight trips to The Boot I didn't feel any more vulnerable there than in other countries I've traveled.

My father had his comeuppance in Rome (until then he was the only member of the family who hadn't had their passport stolen at some point) when his cargo pants pocket was infiltrated and someone walked away with the contents, so I'd say you'd be wise to divvy up your money, avoid being silly like him and putting an important document in an outside pocket, and certainly follow all of the normal precautions. That said, I think it's a bit overboard to assume that you'll be robbed, and you'll ruin your vacation if that's all you think about! Enjoy Italy!

Travel Resolution: My travel resolution this year is to actually spend less time traveling for work(I travel at least every week), and to spend more time with my husband. He's in the Navy, and I work as a consultant in an international field. We have seen each other 5 months out of our first year of marriage (our anniversary was yesterday, and we didn't spend it together).

The Flight Crew: God, that's awful. Okay, we'll give you a pass.

Charlottesville, Va.: Thanks to poor service on American last summer, I received a $250 travel voucher. I'm thinking of using this on a trip to Europe this winter.

How do I redeem a paper voucher to get one of these inexpensive Internet-only airfares? And thanks to your FAQs here on the Flight Crew website, I'll be using all-hotels.com to locate a nice hotel in Central London.

The Flight Crew: I've used a voucher when buying an internet ticket through Northwest, but no sure on American's policies. Unless a clickster can help, you'll have to call them to aksk. (Cindy)

3000 miles west of you: For the October California travelers--as long as you will be in Santa Rosa, don't miss Luther Burbank's house & gardens. And, if you will be around at the end of October, San Francisco's Halloween is, um, a bit different.

My resolution--not to go anywhere without first consulting the enlightening, resourceful, informative, and omnipotent Travel Crew. Did I mention charming?

The Flight Crew: Anne here. Thanks for the tips. Halloween in SF is something I've heard a lot about but never had the occasion to see. Maybe one of these days...

Aw, flattery will get you everywhere.

Houston, Tex.: My New Year's travel resolution is more about how I travel. I hope to practice more patience and tolerance when I travel. I travel for business. Jampacked planes and "civilians" on flights can test my patience.

The Flight Crew: Gosh, how heart-warming. That's nice.

Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: My New Year's Resolution: To try and remember that I can always buy what I've forgotten and that there's no need to overpack for every trip. In years past, I only remember this once I'm on the train lugging my bulky suitcase or on the plane trying to lift a heavy bag into the overhead compartment!

The Flight Crew: Your wisdom blooms like a lotus, grasshopper. Boy, I got a refresher course in the importance of ultra-light packing on the (infected) cruise I took last weekend. Cruise ships, it turns out, only let you debark (I love that word) in a highly structured caste system, having to do with flight times and cabin quality and enforced with color coded baggage tags. The whole last morning is spent in a sort of enforced purgagtory with impatient passengers stacked up in empty bars and lounges for (sometimes) hours. But I--aha!--brought only a small carry-on (I only own one Aloha shirt anyway) and was thus allowed to stalk down the gangway as soon as the boat was cleared. Traveling light is a joy unto itself (as long as you remember to rinse your underwear).
--Steve

Alexandria, Va.: I resolve to travel to some place other than San Antonio. I flew there eight times this past year alone and will take the ninth trip there in a week. I'm thinking of heading to the Netherlands for Queensday this year. I need to get out of the country and I have friends there. I need my Europe fix!

The Flight Crew: Good Lord! That's a lot of Alamo.

Re: Yosemite: I did the San Francisco to Yosemite (and beyond) drive this summer and have a few hints. First, there is very little of interest along the direct route to Yosemite (except for orchards and farms, which was great for roadside fruit in the summer). So, plan your trip so that you don't have too many detours. For example, Santa Rosa, where the Schultz museum is, is northeast of San Francisco and not at all on the way to Yosemite.

Check on the weather before you drive up there. They started getting snow early this year in the Sierra Nevadas, and some of the Yosemite roads close when it snows.

If you are spending a few days in Yosemite and the weather is good, head for the Tioga Pass on the eastern side of the park and go to Mono Lake and most especially to Bodie, a gold mining ghost town and probably the coolest thing you'll see in California (I grew up there and I still think it's one of the most fascinating spots in the U.S.).

The Flight Crew: Thanks for more good tips for California travelers...

Washington, D.C.: Hi Crew and Happy Holidays! My husband and I are planning a trip to Germany and Austria and ending in Venice, Italy. With the open jaw, we were wondering what kind of airfare you think is fair. We found a fare on Delta for $1000, but were hoping to pay less. We'd greatly appreciate any thoughts you all have on the subject.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I don't know when you're flying, but unless it's height of the season summer, $1,000 is too much. You shouldn't have to pay that much more for an open jaw. Call a travel agent and find out what cities work best for getting the best deal. Sometimes an airline will charge a lot less for one city over another in an open jaw equation even when the cities are located relatively close to one another.

Reservation rudeness again: It was the Latham in Georgetown. The woman who I spoke with on Friday was very nice but the woman this morning was quite rude. I believe I'll be going elsewhere.

The Flight Crew: Take that, Latham. Maybe the will see this and clean up their act.

Holiday crowds: With Xmas falling mid-week, do you think the crowds will be well spread out over the weekends before and after the holiday? Or is there a day/time you'd lay odds will be particularly crowded?

The Flight Crew: Hi, HC. Here's my guess: They'll be spread out all over the place, though the Saturday before Christmas and the Sunday after New Years will be busier than usual. Still, I don't think it will be anything like the Thanksgiving rush. If you're driving, it always pays to leave later rather than earlier (going during the rush hour is just crazy stuff). Of course, with some of the new security measures in place in the coming weeks (including the need for a boarding pass before you go through security at Dulles), there's bound to be some unanticipated slowdowns.

-john

Fairfax, Va.: My New Year's travel resolution is to stop being an enabler and only fly solo. I've gone solo and with others, and solo is better. I always seem to be the one who plans and implements when I travel with others, and then folks start asking questions. Is that a good deal? Is the hotel a good one? Did you get (fill in the blank)? Why are we taking the tube and not a cab? How do I get tickets to (fill in the blank)? Heck, they can read the same travel books that I do and visit the same web sites, but don't. I suppose I've become an enbler, and I plan to give it up for the new year!

The Flight Crew: Gee, Fairfax, you may have a point, but surely these people have other qualities...? Sometimes it's nice to have someone to share the sunset with.

Boston, Mass.: How do you get a refund on a a non-refundable ticket issued through Expedia? Please don't say, "You can't." What about the note from your doctor? The death in the family, etc. I know The Flight Crew is fine and upstanding, but how can I avoid the penalty, the mandate to take another trip within a year, etc.? How can I get a REFUND?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: You should have bought travel insurance. Sorry, I have no magic answer. If you had bought directly from the airline, you could try going to a ticket office and throwing yourself on the mercy of the agents. But Expedia is pretty tough - when it says nonrefundable, it means it. Go on another trip.

London, U.K., Royal National Hotel: Hi Gurus!

Has anyone had any experience with the Royal National Hotel near Russell Square?

Just made plane reservations thru British Airways and the confirmation came with a link to that hotel.

We already had reservations for London House, serviced apartment for the week (in February), but thought saving $100 might be worth it.

Any thoughts?

The Flight Crew: We haven't ever stayed there, but from the looks of it, it seems to be a budget property, with modest yet clean rooms and an onsite Chinese restaurant (!). Nothing fancy, but you won't be hanging in your room anyhow, right?
Perhaps some the chatsters have been guests before?? anyone, anyone??--andrea

Columbia, S.C.: For the folks going to Lugano, I suggest going to the Fodors.com Web site and doing a search in their Europe bulletin board. I took a trip to Switzerland a couple of years ago, and had intended to visit the Ticino. The recommendations I read suggested Locarno as an alternative to Lugano, and I had identified a reasonable hotel (around $100/night if not slightly less) there. Unfortuantely, I came down with the flu and never made it that far! But -- I had found a lot of useful info nonetheless.

The Flight Crew: Thanks!

New rule at National: Reagan National is one of the airports where you now must have a boarding pass to get through security, right?

Am I forgetting something, or is this the way air travel -used- to work?

The Flight Crew: It's not one of those airports yet, nor is BWI, but the requirment is rolling out to other airports over coming weeks and months.

I think this is different: in the good old days long, long ago, you could go straight to the gate if you weren't checking luggage. In the more recent good old days, you could get through security with a printed itinery from a travel agent, an online copy etc. (cindy)

I resolve to: visit the country I was born in - the Philippines - but left as a toddler 25 years ago to grow up in Southern California. I hear the nurses at the hospital (I spent a lot of time just hanging around there as my family owned the hospital) still remember my knack for getting into trouble ....

The Flight Crew: Let us know how it goes!

Arlington, Va.: I resolve to buy a polaroid camera, and share my instant photos with the people I meet during my travels -- good for making friends and eliminating the need to store stacks of pics when I get home!

Questions: Do you know anything about Bear Creek Resort in Canaan Valley in West Virginia? Have plans to be there to cross country ski over new years. Aalso, any tips on places to eat in Canaan Valley? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Ooh, great resolution. As for Bear Creek Resort, we haven't stayed there -- can anyone help?

washingtonpost.com: Made in Guatemala, (Post, Sunday, Nov. 10, 2002)

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the link, .com. Hey D.C.--maybe this article will tip the debate over to the side of Guatemala.
-Anne

Woodley Park, Washington, D.C.: My Travel Related New Year's Resolution is that no matter where I travel, I will be conconscious of my health in terms of what I eat and excerise on the road. That means passing up the easy McDonald's burger to eat something more healthy and using the hotel exercise rooms. Also, I plan on making an extra effort on being more pleasant to the anyone who helps me while I am on the road (chambermaids, front desk clerks, etc.) These folks are yelled at on a daily basis, perhaps we need to show them that not all travelers believe this to be "normal" behavior.

The Flight Crew: Another heartwarming resolution. Thanks.

Washington, D.C.: For the person with the bad experience at the Latham: I had a personal respite weekend at the Westin Embassy Row this past couple of days: $99.00 per night, a great bargain for "Heavenly" beds and a fantastic room.

Try their internet site for some great rates.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, WDC

Washington, D.C.: Please help -- I'm a law student in finals who needs something happy to think about!

Boyfriend and I are headed to California over Christmas. We have about three 'free' days and a borrowed car -- we'd like to head south from LA, but don't know where to go besides San Diego. I'm longing for quaint towns and/or warm beaches. Any thoughts? Keep in mind, we can't drive too far south since we need to return to LA for flights home. Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I like Laguna Beach. It's in Orange County, not that far from LA. Lots of shops and a nice beach. Plenty of differently priced accommodations. Go to www.lagunabeachinfo.org.

A great present from American Airlines!: American Airlines treated me with a fabulous holiday gift the other day. It fit perfectly and was just what I wanted: Gold level on their AAdvantage frequent flier program!

They sent me an e-mail saying that as thanks for flying them often -- I took maybe 5-6 RT with them this year, plus have a miles-earning card -- they were extending me gold status until march 31, and if I could earn 5,000 miles in that time, they'd give me gold status through the rest of the year.

I fell a bit short of their goals for gold status this year (I had maybe 15,000 of the required 25,000 miles, but my balance tops 40,000), so this was a welcome surprise. I know several airlines are using their frequent flier programs to drum up business in these tough times, so it's really the consumers who benefit.

I'm wondering if anyone else got a similar message from American, and I wonder what bar I had to clear in order to get this offer.

The Flight Crew: American only sent that offer to really nice people with at least 15,000 miles. Actually, I don't know what the bar was, but airlines are frequently ratcheting up the bonuses to create the loyalty they now so badly need.

Fairfax, Va.: The Grand Canyon is wonderful. You might want to consider staying at Yavapai (spelling) lodge. It's in the part, but away from the rim. You get the added experience of seeing animals outside you bedroom window, and I suspect that isn't common on the rim. The mule-eared deer were only about 15 feet away. Phoenix's Sky Harbor is a fine airport. If you take 17, it's practically a straight shot to the South Rim. Coming back, we took the scenic route through Sedona. Try to stop at the overlook. You'll see about six hairpin turns that you'll execute before you get to Sedona. If you stop there, there will also be some native tribe selling goods. I've heard different tribes alternate selling and that the deals are pretty good. Have a lovely time! P/S If you want to hike into the Canyon, the store near Yavapai Lodge has equipment (shoes, walking sticks, etc.) for sale or rent.

The Flight Crew: I want to be there now, Fairfax! Happy holidays...

-john

re: Aeroflot: While I would never travel on Aeroflot within Russia, Aeroflot flies Boeing 777's on its trans-Atlantic routes. It also recently made its international flights non-smoking.

The Flight Crew: This sounds like a person who knows what they are talking about:

Washington, D.C.: I'm flying next week for the first time in over five years and am already dreading it. I had a bad panic attack on an airplane back then, and since then, I just made to with Amtrak and Greyhound. But they're always a mess around the holidays, and I'm getting tired of it taking 10-12 hours to get somewhere that I could get to via plane in 45 minutes.

Anyway, any suggestions on how to stay calm before and during my flight? Also, for an 11 a.m. flight on Christmas Eve out of National, what time should I get there?

Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Wash, have you considered (a) drugs and (b) a relaxation tape? We have staffers who swear by both. Valium seems to be the drug of choice. Ask your doctor. There's no reason you should suffer when medication can ease your fears. And lay off the booze, unless you're a seasoned drinker.

When to get to the airport? We usually advise an hour ahead of time for domestic flights, but since you're nervous, allow two hours.

-- KC

For the Aeroflot person : I flew Aeroflot from Dulles to Shannon in 1991. Maybe it has changed. But back then, the condition of the plane felt primitive and a very "retro". It seemed like a verrrry long flight, and Moscow is even further! I'd pay more and fly another airline.

The Flight Crew: Another person weighs in. I would add that my info about it being terrible are also based on experiences that were at least six years old. Anyone flown them internationally in the last couple years?

Aeroflot?!: I've heard horrors from friends and colleagues re:Aeroflot. My suggestion is to change in Helsinki and fly Finnair. They do a booming business to Russia/Eastern Europe and have a good track record.

The Flight Crew: Aeroflot reviews continue.

I resolve . . . : not to wear myself out on vacation and relax. If I want to spend a day in a great city like Montreal or New York just sleeping in, sitting in a cafe reading a book, or taking a mid-afternoon nap, all those great sites will be there the next time I come back.

The Flight Crew: I love this resolution. Some of my best memories of places are not the "sights" but just sitting around enjoying the place, doing nothing productive. I think "sights" are highly overrated!

-- KC

Deep Valley, USA: I resolve to travel less, but in greater comfort. I'm not a student any more, and can spend a few dollars more for a nicer room.

The Flight Crew: Hear hear!

Fun at Dulles: Main amusement is watching the illegal taxi touts try to hide what they're doing from the security people. Or watching people dig for exact change at the newstand with 87 people behind them in line.

The Flight Crew: Ooh, fun.

Gaithersburg, Md.: In 2003, I resolve to experience America, coast-to-coast from the inside of a Greyhound bus -- seriously.

The Flight Crew: Before you do that, we implore you to check out our recent cross-country bus story by Peter Mandel. .com, can we get a link?

Report from Italy: My husband and I spent two weeks at the end of November in Italy -- Rome, Assisi, Siena, Florence, and Venice. Yes, it was chilly and a little rainy, but the benefits of off-season travel were fantastic: no lines (except at the Vatican), cheaper rates, etc.

Re. safety: I too had read a lot about robberies and pickpockets, and bought a round-the-neck money pocket, which I used only the first day in Rome. We carried our money in the inside pockets of our rain jackets, or in the front pockets of our pants. Once on a city bus, an undercover cop pulled a man off, but I think the guy might have been more of a pervert than a thief. Maybe he was both. In any case, I felt no more or less secure in Italy than I have in other European or American cities.

One tip on money -- we found that many vendors simply would not accept larger bills. I understand at a market when a fruit seller won't take a 50-euro note, but even in some shops they wouldn't take a 5- or 10-euro note. Break large bills wherever you can and horde your change. Also, many places appreciate exact change, and we were often asked if we had, for example, a 1-euro coin to add to our 20-euro bill for an 11-euro purchase.

Also, for the traveller to San Francisco next week -- pay attention to the weather, it could be very wet and windy. For something to do inside, check out the Museum of Modern Art.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the report!

Kensington, Md.: I am planning a trip to Bremen, Germany in August. This is typically high season. What's the best way/time to look for cheap air fares for my husband, child and me? Also, any recommendations on flying to London or Frankfurt and hopping an inter-continental flight from there as a way to save?

Love your chats. Thanks so much!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Try a consolidator - www.flights.com comes to mind. This might also be a good time to use a travel agent that specializes in Germany. Go to www.visits-to-germany.com for info.

Silver Spring, Md.: law student -- La Jolla! Go hiking at Torrey Pines, watch the sunset at any of the many public beaches -- it's easy to find a private nook, and spend a few hours watching the jelly fish at the aquarium.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I also love La Jolla, but they were looking for a place that was close to LA.

Sterling, Va.: I just came back from a trip through Southeast Asia and had a great time. Now the only thing I'm slightly worried about is whether I caught a food, mosquito, or water-borne disease while I was away. What type of post-travel doctor check-ups would one get (Don't worry, I'm not asking for a referral!).

By the way, I also flew on Aeroflot (Russian airlines) and I must say the flight crew were totalitarian in nature. Not much customer service on that end!

The Flight Crew: I wouldn't worry about it. Americans come and go all the time without ill effect (except maybe from food, and your innards will let you know about that right away), and I've never even heard of a procautionary post-travel check.

And about Aeroflot--we're not getting alot of encouragement on that end. (Cindy)

Alexandria, Va.: My travel resolutions for 2003:

- To actually USE my passport. I've had it now for two years and have yet to go anywhere where I needed it!

- To score at least one free or mostly free vacation thanks to frequent flyer miles and hotel points. Aiming for St. Lucia and Australia this year.

The Flight Crew: Hope both come true for you, Annandale.

Hotels in Santorini: Hmmm. I can't remember the name of where we stayed in Santorini which is unfortunate because it was awesome. What I do remember is that it was in Fira Stefani, and not in Fira, which made a big big difference. You can easily walk to Fira from Fira Stefani, but F.S. is much more peaceful, and doesn't have any donkey odor. Plus in F.S. you're closer to Iya, where you have to go to watch the sunset.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the Santorini hints.

Silver Spring, Md.: About using both halves of a ticket, I don't think they can come down on an individual for a one-time non-use of the return portion. Things happen! People die, or end up in the hospital! Are they going to charge the estate for the one-way differential?

Sheesh.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: As I said originally, there should be no problem, but if you call and tell them that you flouted the rules, and you get a by-the-book kind of agent, you just may be creating a problem.

Washington, D.C.: I'm going to to Tucson in late March, four days -- two of the days (daytime part) will be spent at spring training baseball games. Other days -- up in the air. What are your/chatsters favorite things in the Tucson area? Does anyone had feedback about the Kitt Peak night time stargazing? THANKS!

The Flight Crew: Wash, we haven't done Tucson, so we'll throw your question out to the gang. Can anyone help Wash? (quickly please)

Annapolis, Md.: My husband and I are going to be in London for a week in January. Any tips for hot new plays, restaurants or exhibits? Also, we've been there many times before, but always in late September or early October -- how nasty is the weather likely to be?

The Flight Crew: I spent a January in London once, Annap. I remember it getting dark sometime around noon. But I know John Deiner had unusually fine weather there in November, so maybe you'll get the same luck. Not too worry though, London is topping indoor city, as you know. As for what to do (once you've done the Tate modern, Mama Mia, etc.) check out the truly bizarro exhibit of human cadavers preserved and posed as sculptures. Bodyworlds is at the Old Truman Brewery and has been extended to Feb. 3.

--Steve

washingtonpost.com: Riding the Dog, (Post, May 26, 2002)

The Flight Crew: Here's the link to our cross-country Greyhound story. It's must reading for anyone contemplating a cross-country bus trip.

Fairfax, Va.: In 1987 I went to a lovely restaurant called Gavvers in London. The Roux brother, owners of Le Gavroche (spelling) owned it. It's now closed, but does anyone have suggestions for resturants that are the "step-children" of more prestigious restaurants?

Also, does anyone know where to rent wheelchairs in London? My mother doesn't use one now, but can't walk very far before tiring. I want her to be able to experience as much of London as she's able, and I think a wheelchair will help. Thanks.

The Flight Crew: I think it's a great idea to get a wheelchair--I do that for my mom, and recently talked my mother-in-law into letting my husband do that for her on their yearly trip. As to where to get one: I'd call the British Travel Center at 877 899 8391. If they can't help, get back to me and I'll check into it.

For nervous flyer: The Ross Institute! I have panic attacks on planes and, before 9/11, went through systematic desensitization -- talked about airports one sesion, went to airport next, etc., 'till they let me on a plane while they were cleaning between flights. Got to hear, smell, feel, etc. Cried, which was cathartic. Tell your flight attendent when you board that you might have a problem and what you will experience if you panic. They have seen this before and are great. Drugs are great (talk to a psychiatrist -- not sure if they offer that at the Ross Insitute or if you need to see a seperate doctor). Good luck, dear. It is quite empowering once you get through it. And you will. Promise.

The Flight Crew: Good advice from one who's been there. Thanks so much for posting.

Annandale to Grand Canyon - Again: John,

Thanks for answering my question. I am not looking to see what kind of flights are on America West to Phoenix but I can't get through to their web site. I have used http://www.americawest.com/ I assume this is the correct one?

The Flight Crew: That is correct, and I just signed on to it without problem. (Cindy)

I resolve:: 1. To plan more packing and un-packing days between vacation and work. One "extra" day on each side for each week of the actual trip. (i.e. A two-week Sunday-Sunday trip means the last day of work is Thursday and the first is Wednesday.)

2. If I see a good souvineer the first day of the trip, buy it. There might not be better later. Especially since I try to plan the best activities first in case I need a rain date.

The Flight Crew: Excellent resolutions, except you know that if you DO buy that souvenir, you'll see something better later. Murphy's traveling law.

Re: The Royal National Hotel: Very basic and unclean property. However, the hotel is two blocks from the Russell Square tube, prices are cheap, and the bar stays open longer than the pubs (1am). So expect a lot of drunken university kids!

The Flight Crew: Wow! Quite the un-rave review. Thanks!

Alexandria, Va.: Hi Crew! I've got a question about hotels in New York, N.Y. I'll be headed up there for a weekend in January to catch some shows, and my friends and I are checking out our options. I've seen lots of good deals on various travel Web sites (Travelocity.com and Quikbook.com), with a number of "tourist class" hotels that seem to offer simple rooms with a bed and shared bathroom. Has anyone experienced one of these type hotels? Anything to look out for?

Also, is there a Web site you can recommend that can offer ratings/feedback on hotels? (Travelocity does, but I'd like to see if there are others.)

Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Hi, Al. My two cents: Beware the "tourist class" hotels if you are expecting anything other than a teensy room and not particularly memorable services (restaurant, room service, parking, etc). But if you just need someplace to sleep and don't really care about luxe-ing out, you'll be fine. For unbiased opinions by folks who've actually stayed in those places, check out epinions.com. And whatever you do, don't trust those little pictures that come on Quikbook and other sites! They, natch, show every place in the most positive light.

Anyone else havea good web site for hotel ratings?

-john

Washington, D.C.: I'm planning a trip to Germany for my parents for next year and have a couple questions related to that. I'm looking at Globus and Trafalagar tours, which appear to be comparable in cost, content, etc. Do you have a recommendation preference between the two? Secondly, I'd like to save money by buying the plane tickets myself and forfeiting the airport-hotel transfers offered if you buy the tickets through the tour company. Is this a smart move? Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Both of these tour operators are well-known companies with good reps. They both cater to a slightly upscale crowd - not high-end, but not budget. I'd go with the one that is offering the itinerary you want. As for buying tickets separately, just make sure you figure out beforehand what the transfers will cost you. You want to make sure you're saving money before doing this. Also, I don't know if these tour operators operate like cruises, but if your flight is cancelled, you might want to make sure that the group will wait for you if it's scheduled to depart for another city on the same/next day.

Bethesda, Md.: A report on Oahu, where I was over Thanksgiving week: It was wonderful, and I won't bore anyone with info they can get from Frommers. Just a few tips: Waikiki was the most overrated beach I visited. Fortunately I was staying with a friend who lives there, and he had ideas about other beaches (and a convertible to get us to them). Waikiki is crowded and the ocean is so calm it's like playing in your bathtub. Unfortunately, I think a lot of tourists go to their hotel there and rarely leave. Check out other beaches: Sandy Beach and Bellows were two we liked. Another tip only for military people (my friend is stationed at Pearl Harbor) The Hale Koa, a hotel owned by the Army, is open only to active and retired military and at MUCH lower rates than the usual hotels there. We ate at some of the restaurants and they're also quite reasonable by comparison, e.g., 2 drinks and pretzels for $11 vs. $8.75 for one mai tai alone at the Royal Hawaiian. Also, you really don't need to bring anything dressy -- "aloha-wear" is the norm, even for church. The last tip is that parking downtown is impossible, so take the bus to visit the historic Honolulu sites.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for all the great tips, Beth. Oahu is an underappreciated Hawaii destination, some of us think.

For San Francisco traveller: Take a city bus out to the Palace of the Legion of Honor. Beautiful views, and the bus goes through fascinating ethnic neighborhoods.

The Flight Crew: Great idea...thanks!

Travel resolution for 2003: I resolve to stay up-to-date on current events to be better prepared for the nonstop policy questions that any American travelling abroad is likely to encounter. When I was in Europe two years ago I fielded questions from the locals about gun control and the death penalty. These days the topics would be terrorism and Iraq. I resolve to be well-informed, respectful of differing views and sensitive to concerns about how the U.S. handles its superpower status.

The Flight Crew: Anne here. That sounds like a great resolution. Travel can be the kick-in-the-pants that a lot of people (myself included) need to become more involved and aware in what happens here at home, if for no other reason than not wanting to look like a fool in front of all the people you meet on the road. So go off and bone up on current events--and wow everyone with your political prowess upon your return.

discarding half a ticket: i took a trip once, from boston-central illinois, through st. louis. realized i wanted to spend the last part of my trip in st. louis and leave from there. called the airline (i think this was when it was still TWA) and told them i wanted to change such that i was flying back to boston out of st. louis instead of from central ill. (if i had just skipped the first leg without calling, they would have canceled me all the way to boston.)

they helped me with no qualms at all.

as mick once sang, sometimes, you might just get what you need.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Hard to believe that they didn't charge you for making the change, but if you're nice, sometimes you'll find a nice agent and magic happens.

This year I resolve to: finally take a long-mulled-over week-long trip to Italy to study Italian. It's my first time to that country and the first time to attend one of those study-foreign-language-abroad programs. Any tips on the latter? Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Good resolution. We've written in the past about foreign language schools, but most recently in Central America. Anyone had recent experience in Europe? quick quick!

Fear of Flying: I used to be terrified about flying -- nervous for the week before the flight, throwing up for a couple of days before getting on the plane (a couple of bad in-flight experiences brought this on).
It might be much harder to do now, but my husband suggested that I talk to a flight attendant to see if I can meet the captain and the co-pilot. It really helps to know there is a real person up there with as much of a stake in getting to your destination.

Every pilot I went up to meet was just great (and most of the time they even had the flight attendant buy me a drink). Once on a flight to Amsterdam, the captain came back to check on me (and I was in the very last row of a 777).

The Flight Crew: Again, good advice from one who's been there. Thanks.

My resolve: In 2003 I resolve to just simply get out more....

The Flight Crew: Yep. It's never enough.

London Exhibit: There's a fabulous and touching one covering Poets of the Great War at the Imperial War museum. Just ignore the school kids and skip the military hardware exhibits.

The Flight Crew: Hear, hear. The IWM is surprisingly good, even if you're not a military buff. Their 1940s house is wonderful. Also, John Deiner suggests the James Bond exhibit at the Museum of Science and the Versace exhibit at the V and A, and the Turner prize exhibit at the Tate Britain.

Washington, D.C.: Hello! A group of girlfriends and I are thinking about going on a cruise in March/April. We are all single and in our mid 20s so we are looking for a fun and inexpensive experience. I really want to find a ship that has more people our age than families and older travelers. What would you recommend?

The Flight Crew: Carnival is among the least expensive lines, but I can't say that any line features a huge number f young singles, except Windjammer Barefoot cruises, which isn't the typical large cruise ship experience. (It still might appeal, though. YOu won't get gambling and nightly shows, but will get the island hopping.) I've heard about this place called Discount Travel Club, based in Marco Island, Fla., which buys blocks of cabins for young singls and then those couple of hundred people are seated together for meals. (Cindy)

In Tucson: Set aside some daytime hours for the Sonoran Desert Museum -- wildlife, geology, just fabulous.

The Flight Crew: Thanks!

Re: Tucson: Go to Bisbee, about an hour and a half south of Tucson. Fun little former mining town now with lots of artists and also mine tours.

The Flight Crew: And more on Tucson. Thanks.

London theater suggestion: www.almeida.co.uk

Everytime I've been through London in the past five years, the Almeida always has something I'm interested in seeing -- and it is invariably sold out.

The Flight Crew: That's a good tip. Thanks.

Washington, D.C.: For the trans Canadian person -- I actually did that for my honeymoon (well sorta -- started and ended in Vancouver with a stay in Jasper and Lake Louise. Fantastic). I booked my rail journey with John Steel Rail Tours and they did a great job -- I would use them if you are going to be wanting to get off and poke around a different locations. If not, just book it on VIA. Be sure to ask if the Romance by Rails package is available -- you can get a double bed and a the largest stateroom for only a few $ more!

The Flight Crew: Thanks, D.C., for your hints on the train trip.

Honeymoon worries on United: Hello,

I am booked on United in June 2003, Washington to Paris for my Honeymoon. We cashed in miles for our tickets in Business class(which at this point are electronic).

Do we need to get paper tickets? Do we need to worry that United will cancel and we will be stuck without this VERY important flight?

Thank you in advance,

Needless to say this is not a trip we can miss!

The Flight Crew: Hey, it'll cost you $50 to get paper tickets so it's worth it for peace of mind, no? It certainly won't hurt. Who knows what will happen by June -- probably nothing, but why not be safe?

Washington, D.C.: Greetings crew!

A group of six to eight 27-28 year-olds are considering booking a cruise to Alaska next August. We're seeking recommendations on the cruise line, departure city, and when we should book (things are looking good right now with all the illnesses). Some of us are couples, some are not. Vancouver looks like a neat port city to visit (I was not thrilled by Seattle last time I went). Suggestions/recommendations?

P.S. I'm not sold on why I should travel Alaska on a cruise, so if you could point out any highlights, that would be great!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I don't know that I'd go on a traditional Alaska cruise. They generally attract an older crowd. Have you looked into an expedition ship? Log on to www.smallshipcruises.com and look around. Also, the Alaska Ferry system is fun - younger crowd more into roughing it - go to www.akferry.com. Vancouver, by the way, is a great city.

Rockville, Md.: Hi, my wife and I are taking a group of people (my in-laws, a friend and his parents, seven total) over to London for 10 days in late March/early April and rather than go the hotel route we were hoping to rent a couple of flats for our time there. Around Baker Street tube stop/Marylebone preferably. Are there any places you could recommend that you may have used in the past? Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Rock, there's a good new book out on renting London flats by a couple of Washington residents that I can't recall the name of -- I think their name is Jensen or Jenson. Type London flats into a search engine.

Kensington, Md.: I am going to Bolivia in May for a friends wedding in Santa Cruz. 7 days have already been planned by the couple in Santa Cruz, but I think I want to spend a few more traveling Lake Titikaka (sp?). Any suggestions?

The Flight Crew: Lake Titicaca is a wonderful, if somewhat harsh, place, Kensington. There are a lot of easy ways to do it from La Paz, organized day-trips available through trav agents or major hotels. But I recommend heading to the town of Copacabana for a night or two, stay in one of the modest lakeside hotels and gorge yourself on the lovely lake trout. The hike around to the Island of the Sun is also a treat, or you can get a boat tour. Ditto the floating reed islands and the Tiahuanco Incan ruins.

The Flight Crew: Wow, out of time again. Thanks for all the great postings, and sorry if we didn't get to yours. The prizes go to Houston, for vowing to be more patient; Arlington, who plans to take Polaroid shots on her travels and pass them out en route; and the person who vowed to spend more time doing nothing. Send your contact info to summersk@washpost.com and we'll get your prizes out.

Remember, no chat for the new two Mondays, so we'll see you back here on Jan. 6. Happy holidays, and happy travels, to all of you from the Travel section!

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