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Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Wednesday, March 20, 2002; 11 a.m. EST

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EST to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Rockville, Md.: HELP! I have a group of maybe 30 people who are coming here for a surprise party for my mom and am thinking, "OHMIGOSH! I need a place that takes reservations for large groups!" What do you think of B. Smith's or should I look into maybe a hotel restaurant? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Hi, Rockville. What’s your budget? Your taste in food? Such details would help me answer your question. Some random thoughts include the wine room in the back of Two Amys (Neopolitan pizza), one of the several private rooms at the Caucus Room (steak and more), upstairs at Yanyu (upscale Asian) in Cleveland Park, the formal Taberna del Alabardero (Spanish) downtown …. I could go on and on. Good luck.

And good morning, all.


Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: What happened to L'Etoile? It looks like the entire hotel is closed, not just the restaurant. Any plans to re-open elsewhere?

Tom Sietsema: The space occupied by the long-closed kosher restaurant has been purchased by Kimpton, the San Francisco-based hotel and restaurant company that recently introduced Topaz and Rouge to Washington. John Wabeck, who designed their menus, is expected to be the top toque at the new venue.


Seattle, Wash.: Hi Tom,

Last week the former chef from Tabbard Inn wrote in that he was living in Seattle. As a former D.C.-ite (who misses the food scene terribly)now living in Seattle, can you find out where he is cooking here? I loved Tabbard Inn and it's where my now-husband and I spend many Thanksgivings and late cold nights drinking strong drinks by the fire. My hope is that he's listening in on this chat (as I do every week) and that he's cooking somewhere in Seattle with Tabbard-like food and atmosphere! Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Are you out there, Former Tabard Inn Chef?

If so, let us know where you’re slicing ‘n’ dicing in the Emerald City.


Bethesda, Md. -- HELP!: Hey Tom,

For the sixth week in a row, I'm going to ask the same question that you always ignore. Can you recommend a Woodley Park/Cleveland Park restaurant for me to hold a rehearsal dinner for 35 for my December wedding? Several places around town are already booked with office Christmas parties.

Tom Sietsema: Ah, the sixth time is the charm!

Have you called New Heights, Lebanese Taverna, or Petits Plates in Woodley Park? Or Ardeo, Yanyu or Palena in Cleveland Park? One of them might be able to come to your rescue.


Bethesda, Md.: Hello, Tom! Do you know if Fairmont Bar & Dining in Bethesda is still in business? I've called over there and tried to visit their Web site, all to no avail.

Tom Sietsema: Alas, the neighborhood-friendly Fairmont is closed, and has been for some time.

It’s a shame. I admired the early efforts of its two owners. From the slots for briefcases at the bar to the bite-size desserts for a buck a piece, it was a restaurant that dreamed big.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
These Wednesday chats are a nice break to my day. I very much enjoy them. Thanks.

I'm not sure this question is applicable to a man with such a well developed palate but, can one find good buffalo wings in the D.C. area? A good spicy sauce and nice ranch or bleu cheese dip.
I grew up in western Pennsylvania (very close to Buffalo) so I am familiar with quality wings.

Tom Sietsema: Hey, you think all I do is swig Champagne and eat foie gras? I eat low as often as high on the food scale!

But back to your question. I recently had some delectable Buffalo wings at the newish Ragtime in Arlington. They distinguished themselves from the pack both with their crisped skins and meatiness. Any wing mavens care to chime in with some additional suggestions?


Rockville, Md.: I have reservation for a romantic birthday dinner at both Tosca and Galileo. Which should I cancel?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, Roberto.


Blacksburg, Va.: I plan to take a trip to D.C. to shop and was wondering if you new of a Korean restaraunt -- not Woo Lae Oak.

Tom Sietsema: Northern Virginia has dozens of Korean restaurants. Some top choices are Sorak Garden, Yechon and Han Sung Oak.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I'm returning to Minneapolis for a visit this weekend -- haven't lived there for about four years now -- and was wondering what restaurants you think are interesting, with an eye toward good vegetarian stuff.

By the way, did you ever eat at a Vietnamese place there called August Moon? And if so what do you think of it? It's on 394 west of Minneapolis, near 100 if I remember right.

Tom Sietsema: Your best bet for enlightened cooking in Mary Tyler Moore's ol' stomping grounds might be Restaurant Alma, on University Ave. SE. The chef is organic-minded and gets much of his stuff from local farmers.

Sorry, I don’t recall August Moon.


Washington, D.C.: Hi, Happy spring! I am going up to New York City this weekend to see Oklahoma on Broadway. I was wondering if you know anything about the restaurant called Vice Versa? I think that it is supposed to be Italian but I am not sure. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Vice Versa? Haven’t been. But for a memorable pre-show meal, I strongly encourage you to check out Esca (that’s “bait” in Italian) on W. 43rd for some fine seafood and gracious service in sunny environs.


Alexandria, Va.: Tom, please help! Seeing as Lent is almost over, I am still in desperate search for awesome fish and chips. I don't care how far or how much $ -- any help for me?

Tom Sietsema: Fish & chips? I assuage my hankering at Johnny’s Half Shell on P St.



Bethesda, Md.: Hello --

I have some company coming in town in a few weeks and we all love Indian. What restaurants do you think serve the best Indian food (in D.C. or Maryland)? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Two of my long-standing favorites include the handsome Bombay Club downtown and Heritage India in Glover Park.

News flash: The latter recently opened a second branch, at 4931 Cordell Avenue (formerly Bombay Dining). It offers the same menu as the original, I’m told, at slightly lower prices at launch.


Food for Thought: Tom,

You often mention searching your chat archives, but unless I am missing something, there isn't any easy way to do this without going into each discussion individually. Any chance of having a search capability available?

washingtonpost.com: We're hoping to implement a Search feature in the near future. We'll keep you posted.

Tom Sietsema: There's your answer!


Who cares about Minneapolis?: Tom, I thought the name of this online chat was DC Dining (meaning DC Metro area). Since when did Minneapolis and Seattle become part of the DC Metro area? If you paid more attention to local people they may not need to submit a locally-focused question 6 times before you answer them.
Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Whoaaaaaaa!

Believe it or not, I get a couple dozen travel-related queries a week, and I try to answer as many as I can without straying too far from topics concerning my own backyard.

Bottom line: I like to keep this an open forum.


Washington, D.C.: Is there a cuisine that you just don't have a taste for? If so, how do you review restaurants that serve that cuisine.

Tom Sietsema: Honestly, I can’t think of a single style of cooking I don’t, or can't, warm to, though some cuisines offer greater variety and are therefor more appealing in that sense. In evaluating a place, a restaurant critic has to be able to transcend his or her personal taste.


Northern Virginia: Tom, I'm submitting early, you've been really helpful in the past, and hope you can help again. Here's the situation: My friend's birthday, a group of roughly 10-15 people (plus or minus), any place in D.C. or Arlington, THIS FRIDAY. The group is pretty international and cosmopolitan, and made up of mainly 20-somethings. Cuisine type is flexible. Which restaurant will be flexible enough for that large of a group, and in the price range of about $30 (not including wine/drinks). I don't want to do Buca Di Beppo. And we just ate at Jaleo. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: International and cosmopolitan, eh? In DC, you might check out Meze (Turkish) in Adams Morgan or Spices (pan-Asian) in Cleveland Park; in Arlington, try Guajillo (Mexican) on N. Wilson Blvd. or the newish Minh’s (Vietnamese).


Washington, D.C.: Tried Kuna this weekend was extremely disappointed with the food. In both an appetizer and main course, there were canned mushrooms. That was enough to overwhelm great service and ambiance. Shouldn't we expect fresh ingredients when we dine out?

Tom Sietsema: In this day and age, I think we can expect fresh mushrooms in our restaurant food. On the other hand, you can’t beat Kuna’s gentle tabs, or the simple charm of its two-level dining room.



Washington, D.C.: I work down by Union Station and am continually discouraged by the low quality of the affordable restaurant options. Could you recommend any eateries in this area that I may have overlooked?

Tom Sietsema: It’s worth the hike to go to Bistro Bis on E St. I’m particularly fond of dining at the bar there. Any chatters care to weigh in with more modest examples of good cooking?


E-Guy: Tom, you complained in your review of Ortanique that their supposedly hot and spicy dishes were tame. Have you found that specifically telling servers that you like it really hot/spicy can help? I tried that at Penang in Bethesda, but my ostensibly hot meal came to me as bland as anything else.

Tom Sietsema: It really varies from server to server, I've discovered. Some believe you, some don't. And some communicate your message to the kitchen, while others forget.


Pentagon, Arlington, Va.: Dear Tom-
On your urging, went to A&J in Rockville. Very good, very cheap! The potstickers were really yummy and I was so pleased But I am looking for a decent Chinese place with the more traditional food -- i.e., kung pao and beef and broccoli type stuff. I went to Tony Cheung's on the urging of another Washington reviewer -- YUCK, DUDE! So bad. So expensive. Any recommendations? I would prefer something closer to downtown or toward Southeast. I live in Maryland. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: In Chinatown, Wok & Roll does the standards pretty well, and it also counts a decent sushi bar.


For Indian Food: I can't recommend enough Raaga, over in Falls Church on Route 7. I went there with 5 people last week. We ordered lots of appetizers and lots of entrees, and made our own buffet. Every last bite was exceptional, and the service is delightful. I love that place. Haven't tried your Glover Park place, but it beats any place I've eaten in downtown.

Tom Sietsema: I like Raaga, too, but it really can't compete with the more sophisticated menus at Bombay Club or Heriotage India.


Desserts for diabetics: Do you know of any pastry chefs that consistently offer sugar-free desserts?

Tom Sietsema: I do not. But I'd be happy to share names of restaurants that serve such.


Washington, D.C.: Where is Minhs?

Tom Sietsema: Minh's is at 2500 Wilson Blvd (cross street Cleveland). Bonus tip: You can work off a meal at the impressive new shopping mall just a few blocks away, with its Pottery Barn, Crate & Barrel, etc.


Union Station restaurants: My suggestions: La Loma just expanded their patio and is expanding their kitchen. Very soon instead of just marinating their yummy beef for 48 hours they will smoke it as well. Red River Grill is always good for a burger and fries. Neither is heavy on the budget.

Also, as a Hill denzien I couldn't agree more on the dearth of quality restaurants in our area. One notable exception.... have you tried the park cafe on Lincoln Park? The paella is quite tasty!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for sharing your recomendations. (I have yet to try Park Cafe, fyi)


Tom Sietsema: Here are some of the wing plugs I've gathered from the group today:

Re: Buffalo Wings: Grevey's in Fairfax has pretty good Buffalo Wings (I went to school in Buffalo). Actually, I think the owners are from that area.

Ledroit Park: re: wings!: We've had good wings from the Original Wing House on 7th Street in Shaw. Perhaps not authentic Buffalo Wings, but great tasting. There is also a City Wings on U Street that smells great, but we haven't tried the goods, yet.

Arlington, Va.: Re: Wings
Ireland's Four Courts by Courthouse Metro also churn out some pretty crispy wings.

WINGS ARE MY THING!: Best wings: HOOTERS! And I'm a woman, so you know it's not about ambiance for me!

Wings: I'm a fan of the wings at Flannagan's in Bethesda. Nice and crispy on the outside. The other good news is that they're usually free during happy hour at the small buffet they have. F Street Club in the MCI Center has good wings too, though they're only open the day of a game. Still, you don't need a ticket to get in. Good stuff.


New York, N.Y.: Hi Tom:

"Viceversa" (as it is correctly spelled... and pronounced "vee-chay vair-suh") is a decent pre- or post-theater option. The Italian food is not spectacular (and it is kind of expensive for what you get) but it is better than many restaurants in that neighborhood. But expect lots of black attire and attitude from both the staff and the patrons.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks, New York, for your report from da field.


Washington, D.C.: A few of us went to Cashion's about a month ago for dinner. It was a great meal, as it always is. But one odd thing happened: One member of our party asked if they would substitute string beans for spinach, because she hates spinach. The waitress responded that "our dishes are like works or art, and when the chef creates the dish with spinach, we don't change that." I understand that the chef thinks a particular vegetable would go best, but that is ridiculous. When the entree came, the spinach was in a small, segregated pile on the side of the plate. My friend quickly picked it up (with her fork) and exchanged it with another diner who ordered a dish with string beans!

Tom Sietsema: Subbing in string beans for spinach doesn't sound all that difficult, does it?

On the other hand, I've watched diners dictate entirely new dishes to servers, as they cancel three ingredients here and add five other ones there.


Somewhere in the Burbs!: Not really a question just a statement. I'm the wife of a chef and I cannot tell you how many times, or should I say how few, because of my husbands schedule, I've been out to dinner with my husband and because of our "connections" we have been treated kindly and warmly by the hosting restaurant. Obviously this is not the problem, the problem is with other patrons. We very rarely go out on a Saturday night because my husband is usually working, but for a special occasion he turns his kithcen over to his Sous and I am very grateful. But you should see and hear the reactions from other patrons. For example, "why do they get the romantic corner, VIP treatment, etc. And a lot of time it is a case of them overhearing the serveers talk to my husband or recognizing my husband and then being very gracious to him but dismissing me. Hello! The wife is part of the equation. And yes many chefs are married and we are the women behind the men. Believe me, we put up with alot and the rare Saturday night out is a real treat to those of us who support the "chef." Please treat us with repsect, we are not groupies, but his or her spouse. Oh, and don't use us to get to our spouses. We can see right through you! Thanks for letting me rant!

Tom Sietsema: Feel better now?

I bet you have a lot of company out there, nodding in agreement. (And in fairness, let's not overlook the male partners of female chefs, suffering right along with you.)


Fast-food chicken in Falls Church?: Ever heard of a place called Crisp and Juicy in Falls Church? Is it any good?

Tom Sietsema: Yes, and it actually lives up to its title.


Fastlane: Morning Tom,

I recently met a guy who told me he was a "restaurant consultant." I asked for explanation and was told he "designs the wine list, manages the restauarant upon opening, even helps pick the chef, or anything else that's needed." Is this a real job? What do you know about this? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: He's not pulling your leg. There are indeed people out there who make their living by launching, educating and advising restaurants.


Tom Sietsema: The Hill suggestions continue:

Union Station area: Try Banducci's at 2nd and F NE for good, inexpensive (but hearty) Italian. Lunch choices are subs, pastas, salads. Atmosphere is most definitely casual. I love their meatball subs ($5) and Italian wedding soup.

Union Station: You're pretty much out of luck in that area. However there is one rather bright light. East Street Cafe which is on the second level of Union Station is quite good. Their meal in a bowl soups are perfect for a chilly rainy day. Their ingrediants are fresh, service is good. Give it a shot.

As do the wing promotions: readers are suggesting Old Glory in G'town and Mango Mike's in Alexandria.




Re: Traveler issue: To the person who posted about keeping the chat limited to D.C.:

Since people who live in D.C. do occasionally leave D.C., we need a trusted tastebud rep to let us know where to spend our time and money for food.

So there!

Tom Sietsema: You tell 'em!

And on that cheerful note, I bid you all a good rest of the week. I'll be back here, as I hope you will be, next Wednesday.


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