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Kim O'Donnel
Kim O'Donnel
(Craig Cola
washingtonpost.com)
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What's Cooking
Hosted by Kim O'Donnel
washingtonpost.com Staff

Tuesday, Feb. 12, 2002; Noon EST

Calling all foodies! Join us Tuesday at noon for What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Submit your questions or commments before or during today's discussion.

If you couldn't make the live event, you can always send Kim O'Donnel an e-mail or drop in on the What's Cooking message boards.

Don't forget -- you can join host Kim O'Donnel as she dishes out culinary advice and demonstrations LIVE during her monthly What's Cooking streaming video show Thursday, Feb. 14 at noon.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Kim O'Donnel: What an interesting week. First comes Mardi Gras. Then abstention (Lent). Then Valentine's Day in all its gushy glory. What a see saw of life. So, hey, as a way to clear through the confusion, send me your LUSTIEST recipe (don't get too long and windy, please), something that always gets you hot lovin' no matter where you live or with whom you're trying to lure. Send me somethin' burnin like hot lava, and you'll be the winner of "World Food: New Orleans." Goopy romantics need not apply here. Okay, let's get started. Can't wait to hear what's on your burners.


Kim O'Donnel: Oh yeah! I almost forgot. I am with you twice this week -- come hang out with me and swoon over the shrimp and mango salsa number I'm going to whip up live, just for you, my precious valentines. That's at noon. Righty-o.


Potomac, Md.: Hi Kim, I have a question about oil substitutes. People seem to have success substituting apple sauce for oil, but I'm wondering if apple sauce could also be used in place of butter or shortening. I want to make healthier cookies, can apple sauce be an adequate replacement for crisco or butter in cookies? Has anyone tried this (or know of better substitutes for this situation)? thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I can not vouch for this, but let's put it out there for readers to respond to...I'm sure someone has tried apple sauce in place of butter or shortening.


And how could you forget: The Year of The Horse starting today -- more rampant celebration.

Kim O'Donnel: Of course! Thanks for reminding me. What a festive week we have.


Rockville, Md.: Hi Kim. Not really a cooking question, but do you have any suggestions of restaurants to visit in Palm Springs, Calif.? Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: I don't. But remember, Tom Sietsema will live tomorrow at 11 am, and he does eat his way around the country from time to time.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

I want to make cookies with Carob chips for my boyfriend for Valentine's Day, but I have no idea what would be good. Would just a regular chocolate chip cookie recipe with Carob substituted for chocolate work? Please help!

Kim O'Donnel: Do you want carob because of the dairy thing or because you are allergic to chocolate? Please advise. If it's a dairy thing, there are great non-dairy chocolate chips out there.


Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim, I love your show!

A friend is hosting a fondue party for Valentine's Day. She asked me to bring a few loaves of good bread. Can you suggest any bakeries in Arlington (or nearby) that make incredible French bread? What kind of breads work good for fondue? Would wheat or olive bread work or should I stick with white?

Kim O'Donnel: When I think of bread, I think of Firehook Bakery. And that's not because I worked there. It's been 7 years since I worked there, and I still buy my bread from them because I think it's of the best quality. Best damn baguette around. Olive bread would work, yes. Think crusty, thick.


Washington, D.C.: Submitting early because I'll be at lunch during the chat.

I'm trying to make the switch from white rice to brown rice, and so far the biggest stumbling block hasn't been taste, but time. The brown rice takes 40 minutes to cook vs. 20 for the white, and I just don't have that much patience. I was wonder whether soaking it in water overnight or before leaving for work would cut down on the cooking time or just make a gloppy mess. If so, how would I do it? Just soak it in cold water in the fridge? Or boil the water first? Is there another way I can cook it faster (without using that nasty instant kind, of course).

Kim O'Donnel: My suggestion: Make a whole bunch and put it separate containers to have for a few consecutive days. that way, all you need to do is heat it up.


kampachi: Hi Kim,
I'm hoping to surprise a sweetie on the other coast with your decadent sounding truffles you posted earlier.

2 quick questions: how many truffles does 5 lbs of chocolate make (about 1 inch truffles I'm assuming?) and can you substitue another liquor instead of cognac (like calvados) and if you did would you make any other adjustments? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: Only if you tell me about kampachi....Five pounds of chock will yield about 100 truffles! So, if you think that will send you into a diabetic coma, try halving the recipe. Of course, you can sub spirits. Calvados would be interesting. I've used rum and bourbon as well.


Lil' Latina Chef: Hi Kim,
I really hope this gets to you because so few of my questions have been getting through lately.
I'm planning a brunch this weekend for a friend from out of town, some D.C. friends and my sweetie. We're thinking homemade pancakes with fresh berries, fresh baked bread, and lots of fruits. Nothing too crazy.
I was toying with the idea of some cheese and fruit. Do you know of a good "brunchy" type of cheese? I thought of queso manchego, which I've eaten at tapas places, but wasn't sure if it would work. Suggestions?
Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Any kind of cheese is good for brunch. Any kind of cheese is good at any time, for that matter. Do you want a selection? Maybe something blue, something runny and stinky and then something drier and sheepy, like manchego. Pears are a good pair.


You like Firehook's baguette?: Frankly I'm really disappointed in it -- it's sourdough! That's not a baguette. At least the baguettes at the Georgetown Firehook are always sourdough. Where can I find a good plain baguette? Corner Bakery is only eh. Dean and DeLuca's always taste a day old.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, it's sourdough. I like that just fine.


curious: Are aphrodisiacs for real? I've heard oysters, of course, and figs ( or is it dates?). Anyone with any experience? I don't really like oysters so I can't imagine they would really get me in the mood. Now garlic, though -- ooh baby. Always turns me on. That stuff about bad breath is hogwash.

Kim O'Donnel: Is love for real? Is lust real? It's all real at that moment, and is that what counts? Aphrodisiacs are what you make them. If oysters don't rock your world, then break out that garlic, kid. I love roasted garlic, too. and mango? Well, most of you know how I feel about mangoes.


Tirana, Albania: Yes, I'm taking you with me around the world (and can't you tell I'm excited!).

I just wanted to share that the food here is great with Greek, Italian and Turkish influences. I'm in cheese, pasta and coffee heaven. A friend is going to teach me to cook some true Albanian stews soon and I'll share since they are awesome!

Really, come to Albania -- its beautiful, cheap and (mostly) safe.

Kim O'Donnel: I love this. A chowhound in Albania! Woo hoo! Thanks for checking in with us, dear. Please keep us posted of your adventures.


RE: bread: Marvelous Market! Breadline! Both have great baguettes.

Kim O'Donnel: I knew this thread would stir up the nerves...


Washington, D.C.: I just back from New Orleans and am CRAVING that cookbook. When we got married I had no idea how to cook, (my husband being the chef in the family) but wanted to have one meal that I could count on to heat up his taste buds. I saute garlic and red onion in some olive oil, add cinammon, cumin, a bit of red pepper flakes, cayenne, ginger, a bit of water and any other spicy spice I have around, then add garbanzo beans and simmer for a half hour. I sometimes add chicken but it's really good as is. Serve over jasmine rice and toss some cilantro over it, and I have a simple yet smokin' dish. Best served with a cold beer.

Kim O'Donnel: Love it. Simple, sultry. And you just shared a recipe without amounts -- bravo!


Sticks, Mt. Airy: Lustiest food? Well for me eating naked lobsters (remember the Tom Jones Movie). Just steam with some water white wine, tarragon and thyme. Crack those babies at the table, season with salt and pepper and use your fingers to dip in drawn butter and squeeze the lemon. Serve with the traditional classic caesar salad (hearts of romanie only, it was eaten with whole leaves and hands). Dessert, well how does "Kim's Mango in the bathtub au deux" sound? Have a great one.

Kim O'Donnel: Alas, Sticks comes through with a zinger. Sounds heavenly, dear.


Petworth: For your challenge, this flourless chocolate torte is always a winner for me:

1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup unsalted butter
12 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate
1/3 cup sweet liqueur
6 eggs

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Butter an 8 inch round pan and line the bottom with parchment paper cut to fit. Butter the paper.

Cut the chocolate finely and set it aside. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil over low heat, stirring occasionally to make sure all the sugar dissolves. Remove the syrup from the heat and stir in the butter and chocolate. Allow to stand for 5 minutes. Whisk smooth. Add liqueur and the eggs one at a time, whisk after each addition; be careful not to overmix.

Pour the batter into the pan and then place the pan in a small roasting pan and add about one inch of warm water. Bake for 45
minutes until set and cake is dry on top.

Cool.

Serve with whipped cream. Decorate, depending on liquer used (ex - raspberries for chambord, almonds for amaretto, hazelnuts for frangelico...)

Kim O'Donnel: Another goodie. Thanks, Petworth.


Abraham Lincoln: Four Score and Seven Years Ago, I made my first lady (while she slept) a quiche for breakfast with fresh orange juice.

Kim O'Donnel: Abe, honey, tell us more.


Arlington, Va.: Kim -- here's my lustiest menu -- gets me burning every time.

Appetizer: Oysters on the half shell -- but I serve these wearing only my apron. Paired with a lovely Napa-area Sauvignon Blanc.

Main course: Thai red curry -- the hotter the better -- the red curry paste gets the heart pumping and the lips tingling. Served with a little coconut jasmine rice just to keep things from boiling over too soon. Served with sparkling water with fresh squeezed lime.

Dessert: Angel food cake with pureed mango sauce -- so there's even more of a contrast when I act like a devil later. Paired with champagne (the real deal, not the Californian bubbly!)

Happy Valentine's Day, everyone!

Kim O'Donnel: I need the hose to cool me off...sounds like quite an operation, Arlington. Care to share one of your recipes?


Pancetta Substitute: A few recipes I've been reading have called for pancetta, and I was wondering if there are any acceptable substitutes. I'm living in College Park on a grad student budget, and I don't have any idea where to buy pancetta and have a sinking suspicion that its pricey. Will boring bacon work well in most recipes?

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, if you don't live in Italia, pancetta is quite pricey. Bacon is the closest thing in texture and flavor, but really, the flavor of pancetta is a lot more sublime than bacon. However! Treat yourself to some nice applewood smoked bacon and you'll get a lovely, intense flavor.


Lustiest recipe!: Adapted from a Charlie Trotter recipe:

Sear salmon ever so briefly (it will be raw inside). Slice into thin thin slices. Top with a slice (or two) of seared foie gras. Top THAT with artichoke hearts cooked with butter and chopped truffles. Surround with your favorite exotic mushroom, cooked briefly in the rendered foie gras fat.

There's nothing in that that doesn't scream "APHRODESIAC!" And the time it takes to prepare it gives your loved one ample time to sip on some champagne and contemplate your display of affection and love through cooking.

Kim O'Donnel: Whoa. Except here's the correct spelling: aphrodisiac. We'll cut you some slack this time for such an awesome menu.


Cupertino: What difference is there, if any, between parboiling & blanching?

Kim O'Donnel: Cupertino, blanching usually involves immersion into ice bath after the quick boil...to stop cooking.


Baguette: Frankly I have given up eating baguette in this city (bread in general is pretty bad) because the water here ruins it all. In New York the tap water is fresh and clean from a resivoir in the Adirondaks. Here the water is full of chlorine and goodness knows what else and the bread suffers from it. I have tried Breadline, Firehook, Freshfields, Dean & Deluca, and any place I see a potentially good baguette. They are either all too hard, too dense or just plain bad. And that is just the baguettes. I woudl kill for a loaf of the sesame bread my grandmother from New York used to serve us with hotel bar butter (also not found here) with Sunday dinner!

Kim O'Donnel: I hear ya, I hear ya.


Abraham Lincoln: You forgot to wish me a happy birthday.
The quiche had roast chicken and shallots (from the dinner last night) ementaller, cheddar and parmesan, and heavy cream.

Twas all organic of course.

Kim O'Donnel: Shucks, I'm sorry, Abe. Hope you celebrate in style. Looks like from the sounds of your menu that you have already begun.


kampachi: Hi Kim,

This is a lusty in-process recipe. There are so many good opportunities for flirty cooking. You can dip your finger in the mapple syrup/whip cream/or the mousse and offer someone a taste of the desert in progress. Or the very sweet act of picking up the perfect berry; dipping it into flavored whip cream/maple syrup; and sampling...
And it is easier than it looks (yay unflavored gelatin!)

BERRY MAPLE MOUSSE

Mousse
6 tablespoons water
1 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
3 large egg yolks
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
1 cup chilled whipping creaming
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Compote
1 10-ounce package frozen raspberries in syrup, thawed
2 tsp of fresh lemon juice (or to taste)
Any fresh berries in season

For Mousse:
Place 2 tablespoons water in small bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over; let stand 10 min. to soften.

Whisk yolks, syrup and 4 tablespoons water in medium metal bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water (do not allow bottom of bowl to touch water).

Whisk constantly until candy thermometer registers 160¡ÆF (If you don¡¯t have a thermometer its when the syrup is really hot to touch, almost to the point of burning), about 7 min.

Remove from over water. Add gelatin mixture to yolk mixture; whisk to dissolve.

Using electric mixture, beat mixture until cool and slightly thickened, about 8 min.

Whip cream and vanilla in large bowl to medium-stiff peaks. Fold yolks mixture into whipped cream.

Cover; chill about 4 hrs. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.)

For Compote:
Puree raspberries in syrup and any other frozen berries in processor.

Boil 1 minute. Remove from heat.
Add remaining berries. Cool completely. Spoon over mousse. Garnish with wild abandon

Kim O'Donnel: Fan-berry tastic, kampachi. You still haven't told me the meaning of kampachi, tho.


25th St., Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim -- This weekend I made a yummy pasta salad, using sun dried tomatoes packed in oil. Holy moly, a jar of those suckers is expensive. Can I make them at home by putting some halved romas in the oven for a few hours, then putting them in a jar with olive oil and some herbs? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, yes, yes. Put those tomatoes in the oven on very low heat, like 225 and watch them shrivel up and intensify in flavor. Herbs are nice while you slow roast'em, too.


Reston, Va.: Hi Kim!

My husband and I have a favorite meal that we always pull out for those romantic evenings -- already on the menu for V-day, and it even has a mardi gras tie-in! It's a New Irleans pasta dish -- chicken, shrimp and spicy andouille sausage in a spicy cream sauce (just heavy cream, a bit of white wine, and cajun seasonings). Finish with some sliced scallions and serve over penne. We love it with crusty bread and a nice white wine -- and candles of course!

The romantic evenings are harder to come by these days, with an (almost) two-year old. The last time we made this was new year's eve, and we waited til the little one was sound asleep to start cooking -- ended up eating dinner at 10:00, but then again, cooking together in a quiet kitchen was as much of the fun.

Kim O'Donnel: thanks for sharing this lovely ditty, Reston. Glad you two are making time for good food and lovin.


Virginia: Hi Kim! I love your chats. Question for you: I just bought some grapeseed oil. Any thoughts on what I can do with it? I know that it's a good "generic" oil and can be used in place of olive oil, but I was wondering whether there is anything in particular that would be enhanced by its flavor. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: The nice thing about grapeseed oil is its high smoking point. In fact, it's higher than that of olive oil, so it's more versatile for sauteeing and cooking over high heat. As for raw use, it's a lab experiment. Have you tried it over your fave steamed veggies? Please report back.


Falls Church, Va.: Hi Kim,

I hope you can help me out with my Valentine's Day dinner. I just don't want to go out and put up with the hassle at the restaurants. I have a very nice piece of filet salmon. How should I prepare it? Thank you so much. Happy New Year (the year of the Horse), and Happy Valentine's Day (you can see how much stress I'm under to prepare for two feasts in three days.)

Kim O'Donnel: Falls Church, how does the salmon posted earlier sound? If foie gras is not your thing, you can do a little searing...marinate that fish in a pounded or pureed mixture of garlic, cilantro, lime zest, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, salt, olive oil. Cook in a hot pan, turn over, finish in the oven. Serve with mango salsa. Check it out. meredith, please send folks to the mango salsa recipe, please?


Alexandria, Va.: Kim --

I hope you can help me. I have a wonderful chocolate cake with melted chocolate center dessert that I want to make on Valentine's Day. My husband loves this but I would like to add some flavor to the chocolate. Would it be possible to add orange extract and maybe some orange zest to the recipe? Would this be enough to taste the orange after the cake is cooked?

Thanks so much!

Kim O'Donnel: Yes. Or use orange-flavored liquer to zoop things up...


Arlington, Va.: Kim, first and foremost, I love this chat. Thanks to you and all who participate. Here's my question: What are the chances that an aspiring chef could make it through a culinary school and get hired with a shellfish allergy? Instead of a masters degree I'm seriously pursuing a career in cooking, as I'm happier and more creative there than anywhere else. Is it even possible to train seriously with this type of allergy? I figure I could always work at kosher restaurants.

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Ooh, that's a tough one. Are you allergic even if you touch it? I have a good friend, who was with me in Italy at cooking school, who couldn't handle shellfish at all, or he'd risk death. It will depend on the restaurant that hires you. Yes, you can train with this allergy, but you will need to talk to the folks at the school to see how to work around it.


Applesauce as a substitute in cookies: I tried it once with oatmeal cookies and it was a disaster. The texture was all wrong (cookies got very gummy and sticky) and they were way too sweet (even with unsweetened applesauce).

Maybe it would work if you did 50/50 Crisco and applesauce. With that, I would still cut way down on the sugar in the recipe.

Kim O'Donnel: First-hand reports are my fave...


Rockville, Md.: Quorn Review!

Ok -- after much searching I located Quorn at TenleyTown Fresh Fields.

I purchased the breaded patties, the "crumbles," the stir-fry like pieces, and the pre-made lasagna.

The lasagna was bad -- not because of the quorn, but because of the cheese. THe stir-fry like pieces were ok -- wouldn't buy them again. The crumbles were good -- would definitely buy those again -- much better than the soy alternative I had been using. The breaded patties are awesome -- much better than the low fat breaded chicken patties by butterball or banquet or whoever.

Has anybody else tried them?

Kim O'Donnel: Wow, what a great tidbit for our veg set...many thanks for your experimentation, Rockville.


Cleveland arkk, Washington, D.C.: Lustiest Recipe...my mom's lasagna recipe from her junior high home ec. class. It's made with Italian sausage for just the right kick. It's saucy, spicy yet cheesy and comfy all in one!

Sherry’s Lasagna

1/2 to 1 lb. lasagna noodles
1 lb. Italian sausage
1 Tbsp basil
1 Tbsp oregano
½ Tsp salt
½ Tsp pepper
1 1 lb. can tomatoes
2 6 oz. cans tomato paste
2 Tbsp parsley flakes
1½ C cottage cheese
3 beaten eggs
½ C parmesean cheese
1 lb. mozzarella cheese, slices or grated

Brown meat, spooning off excess fat. Add basil, oregano, salt, pepper, tomatoes, tomato paste and parsley flakes. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Cook noodles according to package directions, drain and rinse. Add remaining ingredients to meat mixture except mozzarella cheese. Stir to blend well. Place half (or 1/3) of the noodles in a 13 x 9 x 12 baking dish. Add half the meat mixture (1/3) then mozzarella cheese. Repeat another layer or two. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes.

Kim O'Donnel: Oh yeah...nothing like a whiff of junior high lasagna love...


Petworth: Don't forget to remind the sundried tomato person -- they are a LOT cheaper dry in bags or in bulk than packed in oil. Simply rehydrate in hot water for a few minutes, toss with olive oil, and you're good to go for a LOT less money.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, indeed. Thanks for adding on to this thread...


Arlington, Va.: Recipes for the lusty meal:

Oysters on the half shell: Rinse 'em, shuck 'em, serve 'em with lemon. No need to do anything else.

Thai Red Curry: I sautee about four Tbsp. of red curry paste (available at any Asian market) in a little bit of olive oil with some diced onion and some minced ginger, then stir in a couple of cans of lite coconut milk, a couple of tablespoons of fish sauce (depends on how much you like this...), and a couple of tablespoons of brown sugar. I bring that to a boil (appropriate for V-Day...), then throw in whatever floats my boat at the moment -- veggies (red or green bell peppers, potatoes are all good, eggplant's yummy, tomatoes work, bamboo shoots and Asian mushrooms are good, too), chicken, beef, salmon--and let it all simmer for about an hour. Cook up some jasmine rice in the meantime, toast a little unsweetened coconut in the oven (watch it -- it burns easily!), mix that together and serve with the curry.

Angel food cake with mango sauce: I usually cheat and use the mix for the cake to save some time in the whole operation. But for the mango sauce, just chunk up some fresh mango and puree it in a blender or food processor with a little orange juice and a dash of vanilla. Add juice slowly until you get a pourable consistency.

As for the devil part, well, that recipe is top secret.

Kim O'Donnel: That's more like it, Arlington!


Furikake guy in Bethesda, Md.: Kim,

When on our honeymoon in Hawaii last year, I discovered an unbelievable seasoning. It's called Furikake, and it's basically a mixture of crumbled dry seaweed and sesame seeds, as well as a few other seasonings of which I'm not sure. Have you ever cooked with it?

I picked some up at the japanese market in bethesda, and use it to cook all the time now. My favorite preparation is to dry rub it into some mahi mahi, sear both sides in a skillet, then put it in the oven for 5 minutes to cook the fish. Then I deglaze the pan with some mirin and soy sauce. Helps me bring a little of Hawaii back to the east coast.

On a separate note, I'm making dinner for my wife for valentines day -- sauteed scallops and wild mushrooms. Problem is, I like neither scallops nor wild mushrooms. Any suggestions for a relatively simple fish/seafood dish I could make alongside hers? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: You know, I have something similar at home, and I'm not wild about it. Maybe I'm not using enough, I don't know. Makes me want to go on a culinary quest to Hawaii even more...as for your vday issue...you are making this for her because it's her favorite dish? Please advise. And check out the shrimp and mango salsa thingy I've been mentioning...I'll be doing a live demo on Thursday.


Re: Salmon Filet: BF made me the best salmon last week. Preheat oven to 500 (not a typo). Brush salmon fillet with melted butter and as much garlic as you like. Maybe sprinkle some fresh herbs on top. Place salmon in oven and turn oven off. Let sit in oven for 20 minutes. Turn oven to "broil" and broil top for 3-5 minutes. Delish! He earned huge bonus points with this recipe.

Kim O'Donnel: Another goodie...the collection is mighty fine this week...


curlygirl: Oh my. Poster with melted choclate cake thingy, please send recipe. It's an emergency.

Kim O'Donnel: Oh me oh my. Curly girl in distress...some pleez help!


Anti-Shellfish Chef Answer: One of my best friends just completed a year of culinary school at La Acadamie de Cuisine and she is very allergic to shellfish (eating, not handling). There were some things she couldn't taste, but it was not an issue.

Of course, there were also some things no one wanted to taste, like sweetbreads and brains too!

Ok. Now a question...Kim, all these valentines meals have lots of preparation. I'd rather spend more time with my honey than over the stove. Suggestions for an easy prep meal?

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for chiming in on the shellfish issue...now, without sounding like a broken record, how does the shrimp and mango salsa dish sound to you? It takes only 25 minutes. If that doesn't work, hop in the tub with your mango and have a wonderful snack.


Washington, D.C.: Lusty food. While not exactly a recipe, because who wants to be slaving over a hot stove or fretting about oven temperatures when feeling romantic, my favorite romantic meal is what my sweetie prepared for me last valentine's day. Caviar and toast points with all the fixin's, black berries and raspberries and yummy (but not too stinky) cheese, chapagne and chocolates. What could be a better way to start out an evening of romance?

Kim O'Donnel: And here's another idea for a non-cooking Val day feast-a-rama...


Lusty Kitchen, Va.: Kim: Although we ( my honey and I) have yet to make the meal, we are planning on making a sartu together this Saturday for our Valentine dinner. It's an italian pie with layers of rice, pasta, eggs, sausage and chicken livers. We were inspired by watching the show Mario Eats Italy on Food TV. I can't WAIT to make it with my honey. I think there is no better way to inspire lust than to watch your man wield a chopping knife or gently stir a ragu! Required attire? Just an apron!

Kim O'Donnel: Nice, Lusty. Please report on your findings.


Austin, Tex.: In honor of Mardi Gras and a recipe I saw in Bon Apetit, I made a big pot of red beans and rice this weekend. It called for diced ham and andouille sausage. It's very tasty, but I've also seen recipes calling for salt pork. Which is tastier? Also, does anyone have a recipe for an appropritely complex and flavorful vegetarian version that I can make for my non-carnivorous friends (and for myself on some occasions)? And is it better to use kidney beans or small red beans?

Kim O'Donnel: I love the flavor of andouille. It's got some spice, some zest that doesn't come with the salt pork. As for veggie versions, I like to zest things up with lots of herbs and any kind of chile peppers...you choose the beans...you're the master of this ceremony.


Dupont, Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim -- I made a good creamy tomato soup on Sunday. But there's still a ton left, & I'm getting somewhat sick of it. Do you think it will freeze well? I never know with dairy products. It's mostly a broth & tomato base, but there is about 2C. of cream in there also. Thoughts? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: The cream content will be affected by the freeze, no doubt. Will affect more the texture and consistency after it's thawed and reheated. Just an fyi. You won't get sick, but don't keep it in there for ages, okay?


Ashburn, Va.: Hi Kim,

I just wanted to thank you and all the people who wrote in last week with suggestions on what I could do to make an award winning chili. I'm happy to say that I came in second place at our office chili cook off. My chili consisted of ground chuck, kidney beans, onion powder, chili powder, red pepper, oregano, a little bit of brown sugar, salt, peper, seasoning salt, and 1 packet Sazon Goya.

I didn't get a chance to try the fist place chili, but I have encoded the recipe, with the owners permission of course. His recipe is as follows:

In large saucepan brown 3 lbs cubed (1/2 inch) beef chuck in 3 tsps of bacon fat. You can also use “Mock Tender”, or “Tri-Tip” but these cuts are difficult to find. ½ inch ‘Chili Grind’ is also ok – ask your butcher.
Add:
1 14.5 oz can of Swanson’s Beef Broth
1 14.5 oz can of Swanson’s Chicken Broth
1 8 oz can of Tomato Sauce
1 cube Beef Bouillon
1 cube Chicken Bouillon
Float 2 Serrano Peppers on top.

Bring to a low boil and add:
2 tsps Onion Powder
1 tsp Garlic Powder
2 Tbsp Chili Powder (Texas Style)
½ tsp Tabasco Green Hot Sauce
¼ tsp Cayenne Pepper
1 packet Sazon Goya
Cut heat back to medium and cook for 1 hour (uncovered).

Add:
½ tsp Oregano (Goya)
½ tsp Onion Powder
½ tsp Garlic Powder
2 Tbsp Cumin (Ground)
3 Tbsp Chili Powder (Texas Style)
¼ tsp Black Pepper
¼ tsp White Pepper
¼ tsp Cayenne Pepper
¼ tsp Season-All Salt
1 packet Sazon Goya
Simmer for 30 minutes. Squeeze Serrano Peppers into pot and discard pulp (careful that no seeds fall in). Adjust liquid with Chicken Broth or filtered water.

Add: (within 1 hour of serving)
1 Tbsp Cumin (Ground)
1 Tbsp Chili Powder (Texas Style)
1 packet Sazon Goya
½ tsp Brown Sugar
Simmer for 1 hour covered. You can simmer longer, but ‘front’ heat will slowly dissipate. Adjust salt plus front and back heat before serving with the following:
Front heat: Cayenne, Red or Green Tabasco, Black or White Pepper
Back heat: Chili Powder, Cumin.
Brown Sugar smoothes the heat out, and will soften excessive front heat (from the Serranos or Cayenne Pepper).

Enjoy over Kidney or Pinto beans, or mix with Pasta

Thanks again for all your help.

Kim O'Donnel: Holy tabasco, Ashburn. This is fantastic news. Congrats on your fine achievement. And many thanks for the first-place entry; however, we'd love yours. Why doncha send it on over?


Novice Cook, Va.: This is a silly question. I absolutely despise the taste of ginger. Would I be doing myself a disservice if I omitted the ginger in all of my recipes?

Another silly question. I am currently munching on some delicious Do-si-dos. Do you have any affinity for Girl Scout Cookies or store bought stuff for that matter? Or do you stick to the homemade, from scratch stuff?

Kim O'Donnel: If you don't like ginger, then don't use it. Food should be enjoyable, pleasurable. If it gives you the funkies, do away with it. Re: the do-so-dos, etc: I hate the things. I feel like I'm putting chemicals into my mouth. I try them out every once in a while (office friends passing them out) for a reality check and I'm always disappointed. And this from a former girl scouter...


Washington, D.C.: Hello Kim! I have a question about fresh versus dried herbs. I'm sure fresh is usually best, but what do you do when a recipe calls for fresh herbs, but for whatever reason you simply don't have any? Is it better to substitute with dried herbs, or just leave it out entirely? For example, I made Thai Chicken Curry this weekend, and I had completely forgot to buy fresh basil at the store, which is one of the last ingredients to go in. It was too late to go back out, so I didn't know what to do -- substitute or skip it? I skipped it and it still tasted fine, but I'm just wondering if there's a rule or something to go by? Thanks so much!

Kim O'Donnel: I think dried herbs taste like sawdust, so if I were in your shoes, I would have done as you did.


For curlygirl: For a foolproof melted chocolate cake recipe, go to epicurious.com and look up "molten chocolate cakes with mint sauce.' (And forget about the mint sauce -- all they need is little touch of vanilla ice cream -- they make their own fudgy sauce as they bake. Heavenly...)

Kim O'Donnel: Curlygirl, your relief has arrived...


Washington, D.C.: Do you recommend any particular alternatives (work just as well, cost less) to a pizza stone? I've heard ceramic tiles and maybe even terracotta ones work just as well.

Kim O'Donnel: I love a good pizza stone, but I understand the price tag ouch. I've had decent results using the bottom of a heavy baking sheet...not quite the same but will get you through if you need it to.


sexy food: fresh figs
avocados
pomegranates
papayas
St. Andre cheese

feed to each other and then feed on each other.

mmmmmmm.

Kim O'Donnel: More amorous food findings...


College Park, Md.: Valentine's Day menu?

For starters, Oysters with a mango chutney. Amazing how well they go together, especially with a bit of hot Hot HOT peppers in the chutney. Then move on to scrumptious roasted (with appropriate spices) game hens -- really a fun thing, slurping around those little bones, like a scene out of Tom Jones!

And for dessert, CHOCOLATE of course! And it looks hard but those individual chocolate cakes with molten chocolate in the middle are really pretty easy.

The second dessert, of course, will depend on how the evening goes!

Kim O'Donnel: And more...


Lusty, baby!: My favorite lusty dessert: homemade ice cream sandwiches -- made with big, soft chocolatey cookies and vanilla Haagen Daz in the middle. They're playful, they melt all over you, and involve lots of licking. MMMmmmm....

Kim O'Donnel: Now this is a keeper...what kind of cookies do you use?


500 degree salmon: That recipe sounds fab. Any guesses on how long to leave it in the oven for a thinner fish?

Kim O'Donnel: A minute or so...doesn't take long.


Arlington, Va: Why are so many people relying on onion powder and garlic powder? Go for the real stuff -- chop and onion and a few cloves of garlic, for a more natural and flavorful alternative (and cheaper, too)!

Kim O'Donnel: You are my eyes when I can't read through everything carefully..thank for your point. I agree! The real deal is always the way to go.


Fave Food To Up The Lust: I love to do a simple seafood boil-up. Depending which looks better in the market, either shrimp, steamed in beer and The Spice Blend Named After The Bay, chilled down and eaten with cocktail sauce (the horseradish-ier the better); or mussels, steamed with white wine, lemon, and fennel. Mmmmmmmm. With crusty bread, and the beverage that you used to steam (not out of the pot, out of the bottle!).

Its simple. Its basic. And, unless you or your loved one has a shellfish allergy or religious objection, its VERY nice (and cheaper and easier than lobster).

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed, you're onto something.


Pizza Stone: I have seem people use unglazed heavy tiles lined up on the rack in the oven.

Kim O'Donnel: I have too. Thanks for the reminder.


Luv foods: Oysters on the half shell with a tangy mignonette work for me -- but maybe it's all the champagne I wash them down with.

In the summer, try ripe tomato slices over fresh mozzarella slices, topped with chopped basil and pepper and drizzled with olive oil vinaigrette. Refreshing and fab, and it runs all down your face and arms. Seems the messiest foods are also the most, um, inspiring.

Kim O'Donnel: Love in the afternoon...better than any soap opera. Just as long as you promise me not to refrigerate your tomatoes!


Suncoast: Hi Kim. I tried the Barley and Mushroom Pilaf recipe from the barley article several days ago (maybe someone could post a link?), and it was abolutely delicious! Easy to make, too. I urge all the foodies, especially veggies, to give it a try.

washingtonpost.com: Barley at Its Best (Post, Jan. 30, 2002)

Kim O'Donnel: Oh, good. thanks for chiming in!


Gaithersburg, Md.: My best soup recipe, it Always works whether had cold or hot; straight or with rice.here goes:

Tomato Curry Soup
Fresh tomatoes -2 large (hydroponic)
Curry powder -1tsp
Coconut Milk - 1/2 cup
Cilantro -fresh
Butter -1 tsp
Water -1/2 cup +1/4 cup
Fresh ginger - 1teaspoon.
Lemon Juice -2 tsp

In a sauce-pot, heat butter & add diced tomatoes & 1/2 cup water. Cover & cook till soft on medium high. When done, lower heat & add 1/4 cup water, curry, ginger & coconut milk. Bring to a boil stirring slowly. Top off with fresh cilantro.

Ummmmm..!

Kim O'Donnel: More good loving...


Valentine Meal: Lusty meal? A thick steak, rubbed in a New Orleans spice mix and seared until crispy on the outside and running pink inside.

Simple tomato (fresh, fresh, fresh) and mozzarella chunk salad with basil and oil.

Enjoy with a red wine and slice strawberries on sponge cake for dessert.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Kim O'Donnel: And more...


20011: Ok, this recipe emerged from an attempt to recreate a recipe from Brennan's breakfast. And my husband loves loves loves it. A sure way to get some attention.

First, make crepes:

3 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Use blender or food processor to beat all ingredients until smooth. Let the batter stand for several hours or overnight before cooking the crepes. Brush a crepe or omelet pan or small skillet with vegetable oil or melted butter; heat until hot, not smoking. Test proper griddle heat by sprinkling on water from wet hands; water will sizzle at proper temperature.

Add about two tablespoons batter. Move the pan to coat with the batter. When crepe is set (about one minute), turn it over by gently moving a spatula under the crepe. Cook on other side approximately 1/2 minute. Place the crepe on a towel, stack to use or place between waxed paper to freeze.

Then, make the filling:
8 oz cream cheese
1 cup whipping cream
Good jam (any flavor)

Whip the cream, set aside. Cream the cheese until light and fluffy. Add some jam, to taste, fold in whipped cream. Taste, and add jam as needed.

Place filling in pastry bag, pipe onto crepes. Roll crepes.

Serve with custard sauce:

1 cup of milk
2 beaten egg yolks
2 Tbsp granulated sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1/4 tsp real vanilla

Scald milk over double boiler. Beat yolks, sugar, and salt together and add the milk. Cook over double boiler--stirring constantly until the mixture forms a creamy coat over the mixing spoon. Whisk to release steam, then chill until completely cooled and add vanilla.

Kim O'Donnel: And more...how elaborate, tho! Does this take all day? Please advise, 20011.


New York City Water and Bread: That nice, pure Adirondacks H2O comes from the most potent acid rain in the country -- not so pure at all. My aunt and uncle tested it (they live in the Dacks) and now buy filtered water.

Kim O'Donnel: These conversations always lead to the most interesting off-topic threads...


Re food allergies and cooking school: The L'Academie de Cuisine applications asks if you have any allergies. You wouldn't be the first.

Make sure that other schools ask this on applications as you decide on a school. Most have applications that are online or downloadable, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. And if the app doesn't ask the question, then call the school's director of admissions and ask.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for sharing, dear.


melted chocolate cake girl: I don't have the recipe on me but I got the recipe on the Martha Steward Web site. I will also post the recipe tomorrow on the message board.

Try the MS Web site first.

Kim O'Donnel: Please do, before curlygirl goes into cardiac arrest.


NoVa in love: Lust goes best with champagne, non? My best recipie is seared scallops. Just a couple of minutes in the pan with some butter. Remove scallops to a warm plate, then start the magic in the pan: deglaze with champagne. Add a shallot, saute. Finish with cream and a couple tablespoons of red caviar, just heat through. Serve that luscious rose-colored sauce over scallops. Serve the rest of the champagne with dinner. Oh la la!

Kim O'Donnel: I love simplicity. You got me NoVA in love. You're the winner, dear. Please send me your mailing address. By the way, searing scallops, or any other kind of protein, requires a hot pan. Don't forget that. You want a nice caramelization on the outside.


Furikake guy: I'll be more than happy to give you an entire discourse on why hawaiian cuisine is the best anywhere.

I'm making the scallops and mushroom dish because it's two of her favorite foods that I never cook for her since I'm not a big fan.

Kim O'Donnel: Please enlighten us with your Hawaiian tales, please oh please.


Kim O'Donnel: So, someone wrote in from Tucson, I think, about losing the pizzazz in the kitchen. I can't find the question, so I'm trying to respond without the question in front of me. Take a deep breath, dear. YOu're alive. Isn't that wonderful? Get yourself to the nearest farm market and go smell the wonderful things from the earth. Bite into an apple, a mango, a big ole carrot. Smell some fresh thyme and take in the perfume of a radish. Study the colors. Do that for one week and then write back. We'll get you back on track. And get yourself a copy of The Mindful Cook by Isaac Cronin, which I always recommend for cooks feeling a buzzkill. Let's get you sorted out.


washingtonpost.com: The recipe for Kim's arlicky Shrimp with Mango Salsa can be found at the bottom of Thursday's What's Cooking Video page, but for those who want it...


For the Salsa:


  • 2-3 ripe mangoes

  • 1/2 red onion, diced

  • 1/2 jalapeno, diced

  • 1/2 red bell pepper, diced

  • cilantro, chopped, stems removed

  • squeeze of 1 lime

  • salt


For the shrimp:


  • 2-3 cloves garlic, chopped

  • olive oil

  • 1 pound shrimp, peeled and cleaned

  • squeeze of 1 lime

  • rum (optional)


Garnishes/add-ons


  • 1 can black beans, drained (or cooked) to mix in with salsa
    your favorite rice

Instructions:



  1. Prepare yourself for mango slicing! Set your mango on your cutting
    surface, stem end up. There are two narrow "cheeks" and two wider walls
    of flesh surrounding the very flesh-clingy pit. Begin slicing at the top
    of any of the four sides of the fruit and slice as close to the pit as
    you can, down to your cutting surface. Skin remains attached to the
    fruit.


  2. With four slices of flesh on your surface, score the flesh with the tip
    of your knife in tic-tac-toe fashion, without cutting through the skin.
    (Some people call this the hedgehog.) Press skin so cut side pops
    towards you, as if to turn "inside-out," making it easy to scoop with a
    spoon.


    If this is too messy, try Plan B: With a spoon, outline the perimeter of
    your flesh, making sure to keep it in one piece and to move flesh away
    from spoon. Then dice in tic-tac-toe fashion, approximatey in ¼ inch
    squares.


  3. Set your diced mango in a bowl. To that, add the rest of your salsa
    ingredients and toss lightly to combine. Note on the jalapeno: As with
    any fresh chile, take extra care of the seeds and white membranes that
    live inside. These are the sources of heat! Scoop that stuff away with a
    spoon into the sink and be sure not to rub your eyes, touch your skin,
    face, etc. Some folks are more sensitive than others, and if you are, be
    sure to wear rubber gloves and to rinse your knives and cutting surfaces
    thoroughly.


    I added approximate amounts for the salsa, but really, this is your
    baby. If you like more heat, add more chile or something even zestier
    than a jalapeno. If you like less red onion, do as you wish. One nice
    touch of acid, in addition to the lime squeeze, is a splash of rice wine
    vinegar.


  4. Taste salsa for seasonings and make sure you're happy. Set aside and let
    flavors marry.


  5. The shrimp needs to be cleaned and peeled. You can do this in advance,
    by the way. No matter when you do it, be sure to keep it (and any
    shellfish) on ice, at all times. Cleaning (or deveining) can be done
    with a paring knife. Make a light incision into the spine of the shrimp,
    where most of the time you'll find black, brown or gray string-like
    vein. With your knife, extract and discard. All shrimp, after cleaning,
    can be rinsed.


  6. You'll need a saute pan, at least 9 inches, for this job. Have ready
    some chopped cilantro, to taste, another lime for squeezing and your
    garlic, chopped.


  7. Add some olive oil to cover the bottom of your hot pan. Salt your shrimp
    just before adding to the pan. Add your garlic with shrimp, to minimize
    burning of garlic. With tongs, turn the shrimp, which will cook in 1-2
    minutes. You will see a change of shade, from white/gray and translucent
    to more pinky and opaque. After you turn the shrimp, squeeze your lime
    and if using, add a splash of your favorite rum. Let cook for at least 1
    minute. Turn off heat.


  8. Serve salsa with shrimp, and rice and/or black beans.


    Serves 4.

    Kim O'Donnel: Many of you have requested the details ( of course, Meredith meant to write "garlicky" shrimp). anyway, see what you think and then join me for the festivities. I say it's time to run and wipe the sweat off my brow. You've got me revved up and how lovely it feels! See you Thursday. And laissez les bon temps roule! Bye.


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