|
The Grapevine
Hosted by Michael Franz
Special to the Washington Post
Wednesday, May 23, 2001; Noon EDT
Live Right Now!
Today at Noon EDT, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz comes to the Web for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz, who says he's been "drinking wine for 20 years and intently studying it for 13 years," regularly conducts public tastings for the Washington Wine Academy. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
Submit your questions to Michael Franz now or during the discussion.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things vinous. The deal here is that you submit with any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines.
In today’s column in the Post’s print edition, I promised to offer a bit more information on cool climate viticulture in Australia. For starters, I should indicate the apellations that I considered and how I chose them. They were: Yarra Valley, Langhorne Creek, Mornington Peninsula, Macedon, Pyrenees, Orange, Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley, Coonawarra, Tasmania and Pemberton. These were selected by reference to two climate indicators: Mean January Temperature (below 20 degrees Centegrade) and Heat Degree Days (below 1600). These were the only appellations that fell below both treshholds. That does not mean, of course, that they are the only cool climate growing areas in Australia. There are many cool pockets within other appellations (such as Margaret River in Western Australia), but since these are not indicated by appellation names on labels, there is no way to know for sure whether all the grapes came from within such a cool pocket. One of my prime objectives when writing about Australia is to help Americans learn about appellations (rather than lumping together all Australian wines), so this seemed like the best way to go. I’ll be back in two weeks with more on how climate affects grape-growing and resulting wine styles, and perhaps some of you will wish to pursue the topic with me further today on this show.
As with the last few Grapevine sessions, and in all future shows, I’ll try to offer recommendations of one or two wines aside from those noted in my column in the Post’s Food section. In some cases, these will be wines from the same category that aren’t appropriate for inclusion in the newspaper, either because they are too limited in supply or are above the price threshold for the article. In other cases, the wine or wines will be ones that I encounter in my continual grazing that either offer exceptional value or breakthrough quality.
Today’s recommendation is a completely astonishing value from Germany: Hans Lang Rheingau Riesling Trocken 1999…which costs a mere $10 for a FULL LITER BOTTLE! Hans Lang is one of Germany’s best-kept secrets, a highly talented winemaker who produces lovely dry Rieslings (and some very nice sweeties that don’t make it to our shores) as well as one of the world’s best Weissburgunders (a.k.a., Pinot Blanc). This bottle will show his considrable abilities, and will be a perfect springtime aperitif or partner for salads or fish dishes.
So…on to your questions!
Arlington, Va.:
Hey Michael:
I'll be heading to the beach this weekend, and most weekends throughout the summer, where our group house will cook big dinners and drink lots of wine. What suggestions do you have for a good, big, serious red that tastes a lot more expensive than it is... which, I hope, will be in the $10-$15 range. And the same for a white? We'd like to stock up.
Thanks a lot, and have a good holiday weekend.
Michael Franz: Sounds like wicked fun! Yep...here's a tip: The 2000 vintage of a wine I've been recommending lately is out, and it proves a very worthy successor to the 1999: Carchelo Jumilla 2000 (from Spain). Big, big fruit with ripe tannins and nice balance and very little wood influence (which is, to my taste, less welcome in summer). This should ring up for about $9...and taste like $20. Cheers!
Ithaca, N.Y.:
Hi Michael,
I was wondering if you've tried any of the wine from the Finger Lakes area in NY. I'd like to support the local vineyards but don't know where to start. Any suggestions?
Michael Franz: Funny you should mention...I'm headed there in two dyas. (Not to worry, though, the twin Dobermans, Chomper and Crusher, will be on duty protecting my cellar.) I don't get to taste many of those wines, and can't help much, but I have been so impressed with the Rieslings that I'd suggest you start tasting as broadly as you can. The best available source of info is "Wineries of the Eastern States," by Marguerite Thomas (published, I believe, by Berkshire House and now possibly available on-line). Consider me a co-experimenter!
Virginia 22314:
Love your chat. I never miss it, though I usually read it after it occurs.
Two questions, actually:
1. I received for Valentine's day a bottle of 1985 Burmester Colheita. When will it be ready to drink?
2. I'm having a dessert-only reception for my November wedding. The reception site will only allow non-red wines. Any suggestions on whites (or blushes) that will go well with lots of sweet stuff? There seems to be an emphasis on berry-type desserts (cheesecake, trifle, fondue).
P.S. It's my birthday today! Any suggestions on how to enjoy the lovely bottle of Veuve Cliquot Demi-Sec (silver label) that my fiance' gave me?
Thanks in advance. I hope you can answer these!
Michael Franz: Happy birthday!
I'd say that port will be enjoyable now, and will improve with good cool cellaring for another decade, and then hold for another decade after that.
Congratulations on your upcoming nuptuals as well. Since you're doing nothing but desserts, there is no great loss, but perhaps you should tell your reception site to chill out and buy some Wine Away...a great stain remover (ph. 509-527-0607...and I'm not on their payroll). I'd recommend German Riesling at the Spatlese or Auslese level of sweetness, which wil be sweet enough to work with the sweetness in the desserts but also have enough acidity to hang in with the berries.
And as for that Veuve...how about some nice ripe strawberries and top-quality shortbread cookies?
Summit, New Jersey:
Hi Michael,
I've recently become acquainted with the charms of Alsatian whites, particulary Reisling and Pinot Gris by Trimbach and Leon Beyer. What is the meaning of the "VT" or "Vendange Tardive" designation attached to some of these wines? I noticed that a VT wine costs more than an otherwise equivalent bottle, and I want to know whether it's worth the additional cost to try.
Michael Franz: Hi,
Glad to learn of another convert to the lovely wines of Alsace. Been there five times and can't wait to get back! VT is short for Vendance tardive, which simply means late harvest. They are indeed much more expensive, and your question about whether they merit the outlay is indeed a tough one. The wines are definitely extraordinary in potential terms, and yet the price differential is much greater than that found in Germany for comparably sweet wines. That is, a good dry German Riesling might cost $14, and a fine Auslese from the same producer might cost $20, whereas a dry Alsatian Riesling might cost $18 and a VT from the same producer could well cost $50. Is the last of these bottles really worth $50? Probably, based at least on how costly and difficult these wines are to produce, and also by reference to the going rate for big, boring Chardonnay. But still...if money is tight for you, I'd drink my dry wines (whether Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat or Pinot Gris) from Alsace and my sweet ones from germany!
Abuja, Nigeria:
Michael--Big opportunities here, land is cheap, arid, and stoney as Chateau Neuf du Pap, and there's plenty of sunshine. This has big potential to be the next Australia!
(Just kidding, m'dear, we're stuck with Star Beer for the next year.)
I have a question: Does drinking water have any sensory impact on wine tasting? I have discovered, as you have commented, that I can taste quite a lot of wines if I have a glass of water for every taste of red wine. But water, particularly in DC, contains chlorine, binding agents, and other stuff, and has an alkaline edge. Bottled water usually has its flavor as well, intentional or otherwise. Do wine critics think of this as a problem? Would drinking distilled water help?
Michael Franz: Good question! I drink truly frightening quantities of water, and almost always drink the same one to provide a steady baseline (Gerolsteiner, a high mineral-content, low-sodium sparkler from north-western Germany...a steal at $.79 from Trader Joe's). I can no longer drink tap water here (an unanticipated expense resulting from the development of my palate!) as the chlorine makes me gag. I think that a very good, very consistent water wouldn't throw off a careful taster's impressions, but I suspect that some others would suggest that a still water with less flavor than Gerolsteiner would be more scientifically sound. However, I would reply that a happy taster is a better taster, and I love the stuff!
Washington, D.C.:
Hello, I have kept several bottles of cabernet savs in my apartment for the last few years, where, due to poor air conditioning, the temperatures have risen quite high. Are these wines ruined?
Michael Franz: Only one way to tell...have a party for all of your wine-friendly friends with some steaks, some cheese, and a selction of CDs split between festival music and funereal dirges! Ask everybody to bring one bottle of current-release wine just in case all of your bottles call for the dirges. Under these circumstances you'll have a blast no matter what the outcome!
Van Ness:
Afternoon Michael,
I'm the cigar smoker who posted last week. I took your advise and now have befriended a salesman at Calvert Woodley. I've started buying a whole variety of reds that he recommends in the under $10 category. After I've developed my tastebuds a little I'll probably start venturing into higher priced wines. But I'm now enjoying a bottle every couple of evenings with my fiance. Just wanted to update you on my "progress."
Lastly, what area liquor stores would you recommend for a large variety of South African wines? Most that I've seen have a limited supply of higher priced reds.
Thanks
Michael Franz: Glad you're progressing! I'm afraid I don't get around the retail scene as much as I should these days, so I need help from others out there...anybody know a good source for South African wines?
Falls Church, Va.:
Great column, Mr. Franz! Since the color of a wine depends on whether or not the producer decides to ferment the wine with the grape skins, does that mean red grapes produced as whites or blushes (e.g., Zinfandels) can have a "red taste" even though they have a white look? In other words, how much of the red taste is in the grape skin? Also, does the phrase "noir" or "blanc" at the end of a name ever indicate a red grape is produced as a white? If that's true then I guess it's possible to have a white wine called Merlot Blanc! Thanks for your help.
Michael Franz: Hi,
Yes, some rose wines can indeed have a "red taste," especially if the maceration was relatively long. it is not typically very pronounced, though, and few people weould be fooled even if tasting from darkened glasses (which is a good and surprising discipline for you wine geeks to try!). And yes, those suffixes do indeed connote something real. For example, "Blanc de Noirs" means a white wine (sparkling or still) from red (or black) grapes. Finally, white Merlot is existant...though not very good in my experience!
Somewhere, USA:
rieslings . . . I love these wines . . . I tend to like the sweeter variations, but am looking for ones not SO sweet as to be a true dessert wine . . . I have found they are incredible with the type of cooking I do (lots of garlic, spices, etc) as they stand up to the strong flavors and complement heartier food. Do you have a list of wineries that put out good rieslings? Have had success with some S. AFican and German obviously, but wondering if there are others out there (moderate range).
Michael Franz: Hi Somewhere...how cryptic we are today! If Somewhere in near the northeast, check out the wines of Kate Whitmore and Kerlin Imports...she specializes in dry German Rieslings, and the wines are very, very good. Phone is 202-342-1136. If it turns out to be her home phone and she sounds annoyed, tell her Ben Giliberti told you to call! The mid-atlantic wholesaler is franklin Selections, 410-880-4790.
Clarendon, Va.:
A co-worker recently gave me a bottle of Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 1995 (the label also says, Vendemmia...I'm not sure which one is the actual name of the wine). What can you tell me about this wine? What foods might be good with it?
Michael Franz: It is a very, very good wine (I bought a magnum for myself in Italy last Sept.), and therefore you should never fail to make way for this co-worker when there's a que at the water cooler! I like my Brunello younger than many other tasters, and I'd say drink it in 18 months with a nice grilled veal chop with some sauteed wild mushrooms.
Missouri Norton:
Michael -
Will we see you tonight at the Australian Embassy for the 2nd Annual Aussie Wine Tasting, hosted by Wines of the World?
There are some pretty amazing wines being poured tonight, including the 1996 Penfold's Grange, 1997 Penfold's Cabernet 707, 1998 Coriole Lloyd Reserve Shiraz, 1998 Parker 1st Growth, and a NV Grandfather Port. Very exciting stuff.
Hope you are there.
Michael Franz: Is that TONIGHT? I though it was in the second week of June. Nope, I'll be cooking for some friends tonight, so I must ask you to line your pockets with ziplock bags and ask for a couple of extra tastes of Grange. I'll come to pick up my doggie bags tomorrow!
Queenstown, New Zealand:
Good afternoon!
As always, lovely column on the wines from Oz. I will see if I can pick some of those up.
I have returned from my trip to catalunya and as was promised here is my report.
This was my second trip to those parts and it was as lovely as I remembered.
On to the wines. I had the opportunity to drink some lovely wines from Priorat and some very nice things from Rioja. Also, I found a nice wine store up in La Seu D'Urgell (near the border with Andorra) and was able to bring back a variety of bottlings from Scala Dei and some from Lo Cabalo. I had some Scala Dei wines at a restaurant and was hugely impressed. There is some absolutely lovely stuff coming from that region. I remember saying that you planned to visit. If so, I can only express my envy.
Finally, and I think I speak for a lot of people here, these chats are a real pleasure.
Take care
Michael Franz: Hi...thanks for the report! I'll be there before too long, and perhaps in the aftermath we'll be able to compare notes.
Washington, D.C.:
So, where can I find the Hans Lang you mentioned? If you had to choose one local wine shop to do your wine shopping, which would it be?
Michael Franz: Geez, I think I'm going to pass on that last question for fear of getting fire-bombed. Call around for the Hans Lang, though I remeber hearing from Kte Whitmore that Cleveland Park carries a lot of her wines. Top D.C. stores include Calvert-Woodley, MacArthur, Morris Miller, Schneider's and a couple of others. Shop around and I think you'll develop preferences of your own pretty quickly.
Tokyo, Japan:
I am a Naval officer posted in Tokyo and have found some very interesting Montepulciano wines while here. Especially of note is Canaletto Montepulciano (do you know this wine?). I purchase it for under $5 and find it to be a suitable table wine with the fruit flavor of more expensive barberas, rossos and chiantis. Why doesn't this grape get more "air time" considering it's flavor, even in lower-end bottlings. What is your opinion of this grape?
Michael Franz: Hi over there,
I don't know that particular bottling, but I like Montepulcianos very much. They would probably get more press but for the fact that so much writing has been focused on improved quality in more famous areas (like Chianti or the Veneto) and on new arrivals from little-known regions like Puglia, Sardinia and Sicily. You can take some consolation in that fact that this wine wouldn't still be costing less than $5 if it were getting lots of ink!
Alexandria, Va.:
Dr. Franz --
What kind of beverage would you recommend for toasting a former member of the Loyola College Political Philosophy Society who is graduating from law school this weekend?
All my best,
Matthew F.
Loyola Class of 1995
Michael Franz: Champagne, by God! Didn't I teach you anything?!?! Congratulations and good luck!
Brooklyn, N.Y.:
Michael---What do you think of Heidseik Diamante(sp?) champagne--blue or regular label?
Michael Franz: Good, and a pretty good value relative to the norm for Cuvee de Prestige bottlings, but not my favorite. At that price (about $50 when I last looked), I'd rather have a Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, imported by Robert Kacher Selections. Call around...great stuff!
RE: Abuja, Nigeria:
I would not recommend distilled water. Working in a cigar shop it's necessay to have on hand for the humidors. We would always recommend to our customers not to drink it. It's the minerals in regular water that allow our body to absorb it while traveling through our system. Since distilled water is pure H2O, there's nothing for the body to aid it in absorbtion and can lead to frequent (and unpleasant) trips to the bathroom.
Michael Franz: Fascinating! I have exactly no idea whether any of this is true, but it is expressed with impressive conviction, so I pass it along!
Towson, Md.:
Michael, have fun in the fingerlakes. I have done the tour and loved it. Check out the guys at Northside Liquors in Ithaca--they know everything there is to know about their area--good bottlings, etc. Have a great trip, and give us the top recommendations when you return!
Michael Franz: I won't be doing a lot of tasting (as this trip will be devoted more to blasting through mud puddles on a Honda ATV with my insane 8 year-old daughter), but I'll report what I can! Thanks for the tip on Northside...are they on the, uh, north side?
Re: Finger Lakes:
Go to the Bully Hill winery (around Keuka Lake). The best wine tour I have EVER been to… and the wine is good as well.
Cheers.
Michael Franz: I may just do that, since I've received this same suggestion from scores of people over the years. Bully Hill has somehow managed to inspire a sort of religious zeal in those who have exposure to the stuff!
Washington, D.C.:
my girlfriend is going to brussels & paris next week for work (i know, life's tough). she asked me if i knew of any French wines that I could recommend for her to shop for. my question is, "Would it be cheaper to shop for French wines in France?" Also, any recommendations on shops in paris or a wine she should look for?
Michael Franz: I'm just back from France, where the dollar was trading for about 7.4 Francs, so there are some bargains to be had. Sorry but I can't help much on stores, as I spend all of my time when there in Bistros!
Mt. Lebanon, Penn.:
With all the tutti fruiti soda-pop like beverages in the shops today, is Generation X-1 going to take to wine as they come of age or are the vintners going to have to skip one generation and hope that Son Of Skateboarder becomes more traditional like his great grandfather -us late 40s guys? Thanks much.
Michael Franz: Geez, big question and I'm out of time! Can you re-submit in two weeks? I think there's fodder here for a major argument, which I always enjoy!
Michael Franz: Damn! Lots of good questions and no more time! Please forgive me if I didn't get to your submission, and try again in two weeks, same time, same site. Until then, cheers!
|
|
© Copyright 2001 The Washington Post Company | 
