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The Grapevine
Hosted by Michael Franz
Special to the Washington Post
Wednesday, March 28, 2001; Noon EST
Live Right Now!
Today at Noon EST, Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz comes to the Web for The Grapevine to talk about the art of wine and his latest column.
Franz, who says he's been "drinking wine for 20 years and intently studying it for 13 years," regularly conducts public tastings for the Washington Wine Academy. You can find his column on alternating Wednesdays in The Washington Post Food section.
Submit your questions to Michael Franz now or during the discussion.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Michael Franz: G’day mates! Welcome to The Grapevine, an interactive forum on all things vinous. The deal here is that you submit any question plausibly related to wine, and I do my best to shed some light on the matter. Anything from the growing of wine grapes, to the craft of the winemaker, to the workings of the wine trade, to issues of buying, storing and serving the stuff is fair game, so the range of potential discussion points is very broad. I’m always especially interested in questions regarding the pairing of wines with food, so let me help if you’ve got a question along these lines.
My print edition column from today’s Post is the second in a series on the red wines of Tuscany. It reviews so many excellent that space would not permit inclusion of wholesaler information. So, here is the list of recommended wines, listed in order of preference within categories, with approximate priced and D.C. wholesalers indicated in parentheses. In the district, the wholesaler info will help retailers acquire the wine for you. If you live outside of D.C., the info may still be helpful, since many VA and MD retailers will be able to use it to determine the supplier of the wine in their jurisdiction.
1995:____________________________________________
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO: Cerbaiona ($115, Wine Source); Argiano ($52, Wine Source); Friggiali ($60, Vinifera); Gianni Brunelli ($60, Franklin); Canalicchio di Sopra ($67, Vinifera); La Fuga ($?, Bacchus); Le Coste ($44, Siema).
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA: Riseccoli ($24, Wine Source); Melini “Vigneti La Selvanella” ($23, National); Terreno ($25, Vinifera); Melini “Laborel” ($17, National); Cecchi “Villa Cerna” ($20, National); Nozzole ($20, National); Rocca delle Macie ($20, National).
INDICAZIONE GEOGRAPHICA TIPICA: Castello di Volpaia “Balifico” ($45, Washington Wholesale); Castello di Volpaia “Coltassala” ($40, Washington Wholesale); Dievole “Broccato” ($23, Franklin); Losi “San Brunone” ($22, Kysela).
1996:____________________________________________
Castello dei Rampolla IGT “Sammarco” ($78, Wine Source); Terrabianca IGT “Campaccio” ($33, Bacchus); Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva ($40, National).
1997:____________________________________________
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA: Monsanto “Il Poggio” ($54, Bacchus); Felsina “Berardenga Rancia” ($50, Vinifera); Alessi “Leandro” ($35, Siema); Felsina “Berardenga” ($41, Vinifera); Fontodi “Vigna del Sorbo” ($53, Vinifera); Leandro Alessi “Cennatoio” ($25, Siema); Monsanto ($26, Bacchus); Badia a Coltibuono ($37, Winebow); San Vincenti ($24, Country Vintner); Carobbio ($24, Kysela); Rocca di Castagnoli “Poggio a’Frati” ($27, Country Vintner); Nozzole “La Forra” ($31, National); Ruffino “Reserva Ducale” ($23, National); Villa Antinori ($25, National) Banfi ($16, National).
CHIANTI CLASSICO: Castello di Ama ($42, Winebow); Castello di Brolio ($41, Washington Wholesale); Terrabianca “Croce” ($28, Bacchus); Castello di Mileto ($17, Wine Source); Vignamaggio ($19, National); Terreno ($19, Vinifera); Melini “Isassi” ($14, National); Villa Vistarenni ($13, Washington Wholesale); Villa di Monte Chianti ($10, National).
INDICAZIONE GEOGRAPHICA TIPICA: Frescobaldi/Mondavi “Luce” ($75, National); Castello Banfi “Summus” ($70, National); Alessi “Archibaldo” ($65, Siema); Coltibuono “Sangioveto” ($78, Winebow); Felsina “Fontalloro” ($70, Vinifera); Fontodi “Flaccianello” ($78, Vinifera); Bazzocchi “Torrione” ($37, Wine Source); Villa la Selva “Felciaia” ($25, Bacchus); Lagerla “Birba” ($36, Country Vintner); Alessi Sangiovese “Etrurian” ($45, Siema); La Vite Lucente ($30, National); Busi “Tegolaia” ($26, Kysela); Montellori “Vigne del Moro” ($12, Vinifera); Terrabianca Sangiovese “Scassino” ($18, Bacchus); Monte Antico ($10, Bacchus).
1999:____________________________________________
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO: Argiano ($25, Wine Source); La Coste ($18, Siema); Col d’Orcia ($11, National).
VARIOUS CHIANTI DESIGNATIONS: Aziano (Ruffino) Chianti Classico ($12, National); Querceto Chianti ($8, Franklin); San Ripolo (Barone Ricasoli) Chianti ($11, Washington Wholesale); Travignoli Chianti Rufina ($10, Kysela); Il Tasso ($10, Wine Source).
So…on to your questions!
Falls Church, Va.:
I recently had a Sangiovese from Argentina that was surprisingly good - a producer named Gascon, I think. Are there any Argentinian red wines that you would recommend? I hear Malbec is a grape they are doing well down there. Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hi Falls Church,
There are LOTS of reds that I'd recommend, and next week I'm heading down there to conduct further research (yes, I know, tough life!). Here are a few to help start you on your own research: On the more affordable side, Terazzas Malbec and Trumpeter Merlot are both exceptional and available for about $10. At the upper end, a new discovery is Luca Malbec 1999, a stunning bottle with great concentration and intensity but also soft texture. It ain't cheap at $40, but boy is it good!
Laurel, Md.:
Last week, my family went to a Chinese restaurant in DC. We ordered a lightly chilled rose to go with a dish of grilled vegetables. However, the restaurant itself was filled with a strong smell of grilled food, or what they call a smell of "wok," we couldn't smell the rose and enjoy it much. Do you have any suggestions for a more suitable wine to dine in such a restaurant?
Michael Franz: Ouch! That is unfortunate, because I think you picked just about the perfect wine. I am a (still somewhat hesitant) latecomer to vegetable dishes, but had an epiphany over the combination of grilled vegetables in Puglia (heel of the Italian boot), where they are a specialty, along with the local roses. However, if you need an aromaticaly intense wine that will also work well, I'd try dry Riesling. Great ones come from Alsace (Trimbach) New Zealand (Jackson Estate) and Australia (Grosset or Pikes). Good luck!
Washington, D.C.:
I had a bottle of Franciscan Merlot at Oceanaire Restaurant for $58.00 and saw the same bottle at Costco for $15.00. Is this price spread common and how good is Franciscan?
Michael Franz: That is an extreme discrepancy. The restaurant markup looks conspicuously high to me, and the Costco price is lower than I'd expect. Any restaurant markup of more than 300% over the wholesale cost is, in my view, a gouge job, and I'd be surprised if that wine whoelsales above $15. Are you sure that it wasn't some sort of Reserve bottling? I'm unaware of any such wine from Franciscan, so I'm more inclined to doubt the restaurant's practices than your recollection....
Herndon, Va.:
I know Cabernet Francs are used in Bordeaux style blends, but recently saw them stand alone by themselves. What are their characteristics, and can you recommend one for less than $20?
Michael Franz: Hi,
I've written about Cab Francs as stand-alone wines, and I'd guess that those columns ran recently enough that you could find them archived with the Post's Food Section portion of this website. Go back to the home page, click on Food, and then click on the indicator for the collection of wine columns. If they aren't in the list, write back in again. One particularly good one I've tasted more recently: Jefferson Vyds. 1999, $18 or so, from VA. Delicious!
Winedumb, Md:
How much would a decent bottle of reisling wien cost? I was first introduced to this type of wine at a resturant in New Orleans and have been unable to find it at nay local restaurants.
Michael Franz: Winedumb? Not if you join in with this show every other week...then you'll say you hail from Winedom!
Decent Rieslings start at about $10, and go over $100. I've tasted two excellent examples at both ends of this spectrum in the past week. I'll break the label down for you so that you'll know what to look for: Hans Lang (producer) Rheingau (region in Germany) Riesling (grape) Trocken (meaning "dry") 1999, $10 for a FULL LITRE BOTTLE!. Imported by Kerlin Impts., D.C., and wholesaled in D.C. and MD by Franklin Selections. The $100 or so job was trimbach Riesling Clos St. Hune, which is probably the world's greatest dry Riesling.
Washington DC:
I bought some Danzante San Giovese for
cooking, only to discover it wasn't bad.
About $7 as I recall. Is this generally
a decent wine, or did I get lucky? Or
are my taste buds going south?
Michael Franz: I'm sure your tastebuds are fine. The fact is that Tuscan wines (and Italian wines more generally, for that matter) are improving at a stunning pace (aided by a string of good recent vintages). Try the 1997 Monte Antico in the '97 IGT section from my recommendations above...an even better wine that local stores like Calvert Woodley sometimes sell as cheaply as $8 (but which would be a good deal at $15!).
Oak Hill, Va.:
What do you think about Guenoc's practice of changing label covers on their 1997 cabernet which caused many people to purchase what they thought was a very highly rated wine at an even better price only to find out it was not the same wine? I'm not sure I would buy from them again. Your comments please.
Michael Franz: I have not heard this story, and cannot comment except to say that that winery is in flux. It was supposed to have been sold recently, but the people whom I've worked with over the years (Orville Magoon...great name, cool guy...and Karen Menander Magoon) still seem to be in place. I'll look into this....
Tennessee Red:
Hi Michael! Haven't written in a while -- been on a muscadine bender! Great series on Italy, where I'll be in about a month. Of course, I'll want to bring some wine home. What are your recommendations on shopping for wine abroad and shipping vs. hand-carrying it home? Is it best to buy from a wine shop? Do the wineries sell on premises like they do here? Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hi there Red! We were all worried sick...please check in periodically so that we don't need to send out the hounds. You might guess that I've schlepped a bottle or two over the years, so I do indeed have a few thoughts. First, don't trust the airlines to haul your wine in the checked-baggage section. Even if it is insured, you can't replace the bottles with the check they'd send. So, hand carrying is a given. Buy a collapsable nylon duffle from a travel store or wilderness outfitter, throw your clothing into that, and check it. Then, pack your carry-on full of wine, with a sock slipped over each of the bottles so that they won't break if you drop the thing. When you fill out the customs form, DECLARE THE FULL AMOUNT OF WINE. Even though there is a limit (no longer explicitly indicated on the form), the odds are very slight that the officials will care. You're not going to bring in enough to go into business illegally, nor would the duty (if they assess any, which is unlikely) be a big factor given the favorable exchange rate at which you'll be buying the wines. However, getting your name entered into the system as a cheater could mean years of strip searches!
Have a great trip and report back!
Alexandria, Va.:
Argyle of Oregon does a good, cheap riesling at about $10. It's widely available and I've seen it at Fresh Fields as well as wine stores. It is dry, in the Alsatian style.
Michael Franz: Thanks...I agree that that is one of the better Oregon versions.
Arlington, Va:
Tried my first Malbec recently and enjoyed it as a cocktail wine. I'd like to try it again with food. What would pair well with the above-mentioned Terazzas?
Michael Franz: It is really very versatile stuff, since it is in that highly-useful medium-bodied range, with no exotic flavor or texture characteristics. Anything from a roast chicken up to a steak should work very well. The only thing I'd advise against is a dish with tomato sauce, since Argentine Malbecs rarely have enough acidity to deal with tomato.
E. Falls Church:
How long do red wines need to breathe, really? 15 minutes, 30 minutes, longer? And does opening the bottle do it or should we pour the glasses and then wait (hard though that may be)?
Michael Franz: This would depend somewhat on the age, type, and particular bottle of wine, but the simple rule of thumb that works best for me is 30 minutes for any wine bearing a date no more than 4 years remote from the present. Simply opening the bottle does almost nothing (since only about a dime's worth of surface area is exposed). Pour the wine into glasses or--if this might help your discipline--into a clean decanter.
South of the Beltway: :
How do you keep your liver functioning after intently studying wine for 13 years? Is it ready to be bronzed and used as a door stop?
Are there any good American wines? I'm really put off by the wine snobs who claim to drink only European, Chilean, or Australian wines when they'd drink shoe polish if they really had to.
Michael Franz: I spit. And I drink lots and lots of mineral water. And I have a close friend who is a liver doctor as well as wine columnist from The Boston Globe who answers my questions. So, my liver is just fine...thank you very much!
Absolutely, there are LOTS AND LOTS of excellent American wines. I often find the reds preferable to the whites, but anyone who thinks that good wines are only made abroad is either a snob (as you indicate) or hopelessly out of touch. If you want to learn more about how things have changed, read the excellent new book by my friend Paul Lukacs, "American Vintage," Houghton-Mifflin, 2000.
Boston, Mass.:
Great columns and chat. My wife and I are going to a friend's tonight for dinner. Since my wife doesn't eat chicken or beef, our friends said they would make fish. I am going to bring some wine. Should I call to see what kind of fish they are making or are there some red wines (our preference) that go pretty well with different types of fish, e.g. pinot noir. I have a bottle of 1995 Chappellet Cab Sauv that is described as "elegant" and "understated". I'm worried that unless they are serving salmon, the wine might overpower the fish. Any thoughts?
Michael Franz: Hi Boston...we were just talking about you (or your city and one of its papers, at any rate. Do you read Michael Apstein's stuff in the Globe?).
Chappellet makes Cabs that aren't as ripe and gooey as the current vogue, but that wine will still kick the tar out of any fish. I'd recommend taking both a light red (like Pinot, as you suggest) in case they serve something rich and flavorful like salmon or tuna, as well as a white (like, say, Hugel Pinot Blanc 1999, which is exceptionally versatile). Good luck!
Fairfax, Va.:
I recall reading an article some time ago about VA vineyards and the restaurants associated with them. I know Prince Michel has a restaurant but the author wasn't very high on it. If I recall correctly, the author was very high on a restaurant tha I believe is associated with Barboursville vineyard. Do you know if Barboursville does indeed now have a restaurant and can you recommend any Barboursville wines. We expect to be in that area soon. Thanks.
Michael Franz: They do indeed have a restaurant, and it is brand new and pretty promising (by appearance at least). As for the wines...they are among the very best in the state, and world-class in overall quality. I especially like the 2000 Pinot Grigio (cheap and delicious) and the 1998 Nebbiolo (expensive and delicious, but worth the $50 for the well-heeled and curious, as it is the best Nebbiolo I've ever tasted from the USA). You'll have a great time!
A red lover (wine, not meat):
I often (of course) see discussion of red wines going with meat dishes. Do you have any hope or suggestions of food pairings for vegetarians who happen to love red wines (even the stout ones like syrah). Be nice to find hints in that direction. Personally, I've occasionally found some heavy black bean dishes do OK with heavy reds, but I haven't settled on what various spices/flavorings to to the pairing.
Michael Franz: Here are a few ideas: If you eat cheese, the fat content will greatly soften the tannins in big reds and help a lot. You should find that eggplant parmesian works very well with reds. Regarding spicing, steer clear of anything with heat like cayenne or curry, as these will clash quite notably with the tannins in big reds. Those beans are a good idea, since they are rich and fleshy enough to stand up to the wine. Experiment with other bean dishes...the Italians make fantastic things from white beans, as do the french with flageolets. Also, try risotto with mushrooms and cheese!
Germantown, Md.:
Hello Michael!
Just a quick question (and I KNOW you must be getting sick of these) but six of us are going up to Long Island the first weekend of May. There are SO many wineries in a 20-mile span. Any we should be sure NOT to miss? Thanks for your help!
Lori
Michael Franz: Have yet to get there, but I know what you should do: Get Wineries of the Eastern States, a fine book by Marguerite Thomas (Berkshire House Publishers) and follow her recommendations. She is the authority on those wines. Have fun...and spit so you don't get arrested or worse!
Herndon, Va.:
Hi Michael --
Recently I tasted a "cellar-worthy" wine in order to see what discernable characters I can find different than red wines meant to be consumed young. The wine in question was a 1997 California Cabernet-blend that was rated high by the wine press and cost around $50.
Here's my question: how do you [and others for that matter] judge how well a wine will age? I seem to lack a point of reference rather than the simple "I like it" or "I don't like it." My observation -- the wine seemed to have more density and tannin than my usual wines, and had more viscosity than any wine I've had. It was a good wine.
Michael Franz: You're instincts are sound, as density and tannin are important indicators. A thin wine will only get thinner with time, so density is important. Also, tannin works as a preservative, and as long as there is enough rich fruit in the wine (so that it won't get dry and hard as it ages), a wine with structure from tannin is more ageworthy than one with very low levels. Finally, acidity also helps, which is why Bordeaux and Burgundy generally age beter (and more interestingly) than California Cab and Pinot.
Washington, D.C.:
Sorry for my forgetfulness, but a few weeks ago you mentioned a wine store in D.C. that was both little known and a great store. I was hoping you could remind me of the store's name. Thanks.
Michael Franz: Morris Miller, located on Alaska Ave. right at the border with Montgomery Cty. From the beltway, take Georgia Ave. southbound and look to your right at the city line.
20910:
Mike,
I have two Spanish wines. A 1991 Rioja Domino de Conte and 1995 Reserva Tinto from Arzuga Ribera del Duero. Should I drink them now or wait?
Thanks!
Michael Franz: Hey...my zip too...go Silver Spring!
The 1991 may be drying out, but it was an excellent wine and has a chance to still be very good. I'd say the 1995 is likely to be just about right at the moment, though it can hold another couple of years if you're feeling lucky.
Towson, Md.:
Michael, Thanks as always for your tips on good Italian wines. Do you have any tastings scheduled in the near future, especially up Baltimore way? I know what I like (and I like what I know), but I can't tell oak tannins from grapeskin tannins, and I would love to have somebody with your experience to guide me through a tasting. Maybe the local wine stores or restaurants would help out? Thanks!
Michael Franz: I teach at a college in Baltimore, and am thus up there fairly frequently, and would love to do it but just haven't had the time to set anything up. I'll try!
E. Falls Church:
Followup to the breathing question . . . what do you do at restaurants, then, where they open the bottle in front of you? Would you order wine with cocktails and then let it sit until the main course?
Michael Franz: Good question...and a good idea to boot. I don't drink cocktails (though I enjoy them) for fear of getting too much alcohol, but in any case the idea of having your red for the main course poured into glasses while you have either an aperitif or a white with your appetizer makes excellent sense. High-end restaurants will have decanters that render this unnecessary, so ask your server.
Bethesda, Md:
Love the Monte Antico you recommend, especially at $6.66 a bottle at C-W this week. How long can I cellar it for?
Michael Franz: Don't cellar it...drink it! The 1998 won't be quite as good, most likely, but I wouldn't buy more of the 1997 than you can drink over the next year. 1998 is a quite good vintage, and 1999 will be even closer to 1997.
Cupertino, Calif.:
Recently had a Turley zin (Moore's Vineyard) & was astonished at the depth of flavor...layer after layer. My question is how do they do it? What techniques do they use that other winemakers don't? Are they either illegal or immoral?
Michael Franz: Neither illegal nor immoral. The key to that sort of density is simly very low yields, as the vine is concentrating its energies on less fruit. Low yields in the case of Turley come from dry-farming very old vines. In the cases of other wines, poor soils, good drainage, no fertilization, severe pruning, a "green harvest" in which some grape bunches are removed late in the ripening process are all techniques working toward this end. Even later, in the winemaking process itself, it is possible to drain off some juice to increase the ration of skins to juice, which works because most of the flavor and pigment is contained in the skins.
Michael Franz: Aaaargh! Out of time with a couple dozen interesting questions to go! Please forgive me if I couldn't get to yours, and join in when we do this again in two weeks (or when we try, at any rate, live from Argentina!). Until then, cheers!
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