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Post Magazine
This Week:
The Annual Dining Guide

Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Monday, Oct. 22, 2001; 1 p.m. EDT

Where can I find a decent meal after midnight around here? Where should I take my cool cousin who's visiting from L.A.? Or my vegetarian friends? Or my great-aunt who's hard of hearing? Or the kids?

Tom Sietsema is inundated with questions from friends, colleagues, readers and others. He gets more questions than he could possibly respond to. So, in the Annual Dining Guide in Sunday's Washington Post Magazine, he tried to answer a dozen or so of them. Sietsema was online Monday, Oct. 22 at 1 p.m. EDT to discuss the his first annual dining guide.

Sietsema's Dining column appears each week in The Washington Post Magazine. Also, join Sietsema every Wednesday at 11 a.m. EDT right here for his weekly Live Online discussion, "Ask Tom."

A transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.



Perturbed in Washington, D.C.: Horrible, horrible, horrible. Where do I begin? How do you start a DINING GUIDE by saying, oh, all the best restaurants are not in this dining guide?!

Two years ago, Phyllis Richman wrote her last dining guide, full of the best restaurants and some unsung heroes. Then, last year, you weakened the sauce by saying, well, these are the ones I would spend MY money on. Great, thanks for that. Now, we have this odd set-up of questions and restaurant answers that smacks of a lack of originality.

Worse still, this is no longer a D.C. dining guide at all, but a horrible tour of the suburbs with some D.C. veterans thrown in. If Rockville has a great restaurant, wonderful, let a local rag report about that. But yours is the WASHINGTON Post and should focus on getting people to eat in the city -- even if, inexplicably, they live in the distant, homogenous suburbs.

With that said, I suggest you give us what we deserve: a list of the best D.C. restaurants. Period.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your feedback, but keep in mind: there are 7,000 places to eat in the metropolitan area and there’s not enough space, or time, or money, to include every restaurant in the guide.

As I explained in the introduction, some places just aren’t performing very well this season and others were left out because their competitors are doing a better job. I feel confident recommending all the restaurants included in yesterday’s issue of the Magazine – in most cases, they are among the best in their class, and/or answered a frequently asked question.

I’m sorry you find the guide “a horrible tour of the suburbs” but I feel compelled to address the needs of suburban readers – believe me, they outnumber you. And trust me, there are plenty of (delicious) reasons to stay put.home in Northern Virginia in particular.


You must be really really full: I LOVE the way you laid out your guide. It is truly helpful and ingenious. Thanks for eating all those meals for us. Did you really eat out almost every day twice a day? That is astonishing. Are there that many restaurants around here?

On another issue, I took a chatter's advice from last week and took veggie friends to Greenwood. Very, very nice place. I think it also would fit under the "take a group" and "special occasion" categories.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the kind words. Starting in July, I visited more than 120 restaurants to arrive at 45 reviews this year; to do that and to do that, I dined out twelve meals a week on average (and continue to do so). Glad to hear you had a nice experience at Greenwood.


Washington, D.C.: Kinkead's knocked off it's pedestal? What happened?

Tom Sietsema: There are few finer pleasures than a glass of wine and a lobster roll and fries at the sunken bar of the popular seafood restaurant. But have you been in lately? My last meal there cost a small fortune, the service was off, the host was rude and the food tasted as if the kitchen was cooking in place. Sad but true. I think the owners had their attention on other matters (opening a new restaurant in Tysons Corner).


Woodley Park: Tom:

One thing that you didn't cover in the guide is good places for a wedding rehersal dinner for around 25 people. We are having a formal wedding so I would like to do something informal for the wedding party and for some "special" guests (a good portion of the guests are coming from the West Coast). I am struggling for ideas...

Tom Sietsema: For something different, you might try the third floor of Café Atlantico, where I’ve watched more than a few private functions unfold. Or the private salon above Bistrot Lepic in Georgetown. Or the “adult room” at the just-opened Two Amys pizzeria on Macomb near National Cathedral.


Washington, D.C.: Afraid I found your dining guide disappointing. Not sure the format was such a good idea, and you really didn't include many inexpensive places. Also, any reason you chose to ignore the entire Bethesda area, which is convenient for many of us because of Metro access?

Tom Sietsema: Bethesda might have a lot of restaurants, but not many that I’d choose to frequent. Believe me, I spend A LOT more time dining there than you read about in the paper. Even past favorites there proved to be pretty lackluster this time around. Just curious: where do you suggest we try?


Alexandria, Va.: Tom,

I always hate that the annual dining guide issue of the Post Magazine contains pages and pages of restuarant advertisements designed to LOOK like legitimate reviews. It's confusing (my husband thought those were YOUR picks). Why does the Post run those ads the same week as the dining guide?

Tom Sietsema: All I can say is, you raise an interesting point.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, my New York City based brother is coming to D.C. for what he expects to be a very stressful day and would like to dine at a restaurant that will pamper him. What would you recommend (no time to go to Little Washington, I'm afraid). Price not a problem, good wines a must.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Sietsema: I bet he would feel mighty restored after a meal at Palena, Obelisk, Café Atlantico or Citronelle, all of which feature impressive wine programs.



Arlington, Va.: So what was the point of the Fall Dining Guide? Most of the restaurants got good to excellent reviews. Only a few were new. Just a waste of time. Although it was nice to see a couple of Northern Virginia suburban restaurants in the guide.

Tom Sietsema: The point of the fall dining guide? To point readers to answers to frequently asked dining questions. And of course they’re mostly good! I mean, really, you want a list of 45 places to avoid?



College Park, Md.: Hi-
Where does Ruppert's fit in? I ate there recently, and I still feel as if I'm trying to figure out if I actually enjoyed my meal.

Tom Sietsema: Rupperts was on my list last year. But after my last dinner there, I understood why some people complain about the place: it's a lot of minimalism for the price of a meal. I appreciate a light touch with good ingredients, but a recent menu left me wishing for more flavor on the plate.


Chicago, Ill.: My mom, sister and myself are going to be spending the weekend in Phoenix relaxing by the pool. Any dinner recommendations?

Tom Sietsema: Phoenix? Don’t miss the romantic Vincent on Camelback and one of the best pizzas (believe it or not) from the brick oven at at Pizzeria Bianco


Rockville, Md.: I loved the dining guide. A little something for everyone. How many times do you return to a restaurant before you review it?

Tom Sietsema: I visit a restaurant at least three times, with friends in tow to help with the eating, before I write a full review for the Magazine. But often, I go four or more times – as often as I need to evaluate the full range of a place.


College Park, Md.: Forget the nay-sayers, Tom. I found your guide perfect in every way. I loved the new layout. Makes it much easier to fit the place to eat with the occasion. Keep up the good work. And thanks so much for taking the hit on the waist line for us.

An Admirer

Tom Sietsema: Mom? Is that you?


Washington, D.C.: Tom, I thought it rather unfortunate that you or your editor chose to spotlight a friend of yours, owner of the Bread Line, as the very first restaurant featured in your dining guide. Oh, I know, you did "full disclosure" as people in the media do frequently these days. Still, that combined with the fact that about 10 of the restaurants featured happened to advertise in the section, may strike some as fishy (and I don’t mean Johnny’s Half Shell.)

Tom Sietsema: I had nothing to do with the order of the questions. Furthermore, I pay absolutely no attention to who does or does not advertise in the Post as far as which restaurants I choose to cover.


Ashburn, Va..: Dear Tom,

I wanted to congratulate you on a great Dining Guide this year. Do the restaurants that you selected have to be previously reviewed in your weekly column in order to be included in your guide?

Tom Sietsema: Restaurants do not have to have been previously reviewed by me. I included at least a dozen that hadn’t been written up this year.


wiredog: Tom,
I know you've given good reviews to more restaurants than are in the guide. Maybe you could have had a page or two of "I also like..." with just the cuisine, address, and price range for each restaurant?

Tom Sietsema: An idea for next year? Thanks for the input.


Arlington, Va.: Tom,

Wow- that first chatter is a bit hostile. I was surprised by the format of the guide, but think it is helpful. There were definitely many restaurants that used to be on the list that are no longer there. For instance -- it seemed that very few Chinese places made it. Yanyu was absent and I can't think of any other suburban Chinese places (aside from Big Bowl). My husband and I are still searching for tasty Chinese food close to home and can't seem to find any. Has anyone heard of Miu Kee in Falls Church? Also -- noticed Duangrats is off the list. Deservedly so, I think.

Tom Sietsema: Look again. I did include Yanyu -- and Four Sisters, Hollywood East Cafe, Ten Penh, Yechon, A & J....


U Street: Thanks for the welcome review of The Islander. I'm always trying to convince people that there's more to dining on U Street than Ben's Chili Bowl. The Islander also makes their own authentic, teeth-achingly sweet ginger beer. They're more than happy to tone the sugar down, though. And you're right about the leisurly pace of the service. Anyone in a hurry should check out Islamabad, a Pakistani take-out just down the street at 14th and U. It's a staple of starving Howard students: fragrant curries, kebabs, and fresh nan breads. If you don't mind plastic tablecloths, it's a bargain at twice the price.

Tom Sietsema: Sounds like a good tip. Thanks for sharing.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, just wanted to say how much I enjoyed the dining guide. I was particularly glad to see that Cashions, my hands-down favorite restaurant in town, made the list. I am darn near obsessed with certain items on its menu, such as the rabbit loin appetizer, and just find the whole operation there to be quite nice. (Though I wouldnt quibble with your two complaints.)

Anyhow, a question about an omission: I have a real soft spot for Tabard Inn, a place I have grown to love over the years for its charm and consistently good quality. What is your take on what's happenning over there these days? Obviously, you are not overwhelmingly impressed as it didnt make the cut.

(By the way, I am taking off Thursday and heading out to Virginia to catch the last of the leaves and have a nice dinner at Ashby Inn, per your recommendation.)

Tom Sietsema: I've had some memorable lunches -- and some dreadful, shockingly expensive dinners -- at the Tabard. It was just too inconsistant for me to recommend this year.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, Thanks for a great guide. After reading it, I was so hungry I thought I'd have to eat the newspaper. Thanks for pointing out the veggie places, as well as noting options in other reviews. One question. I noticed that you only listed Jaleo's downtown location, not their Bethesda one. I personally prefer the original, both for food and atmosphere. Was this an oversight?

Tom Sietsema: No. I don't think the Bethesda location is as good as the downtown original.


Fall Church, Va.: Hi Tom,

Nice Fall Guide. I have a question for you regarding the Vietnamese Restaurant (the 4 Sisters). I don't understand it. I'm a Vietnamese, and I hardly visit that restaurant. There are others much better serve the Vietnamese cuisine than the 4's. I cook a lot and eat out a lot too, and their cooking is definitely not the best. Have you been to other Vietnamese restaurants?

Tom Sietsema: Yes -- and I'm frequently disappointed with them. I'd love to hear any suggestions from you, though.


Laytonsville, MD: To Perturbed in D.C....

Get a grip... for yor information, some of the best eating (all cuisines, all price ranges) in the Metro area IS IN THE SUBURBS! Get out of your snobby ivory tower once and awhile and you'll find out. Funny, I always thought The Post was our -- as you put it -- local rag. Love the guide, Tom.

And, btw, Tom's predecesor always included eatieres in the 'burbs...

Tom Sietsema: Ah, thanks for the show of support. In the short time I've been on this job, I've discovered that Washingtonians don't like me in the 'burbs and suburbanites wish I'd only review restaurants in their neighborhoods. There's no pleasing everyone. I do, try, however, to review at least two out-of-District restaurants a month and write about same in my Weekly Dish column.


20016: Tom! Give us equal time, please?! You answer the question of where to go with kids. How about where to go if you're seeking an adult (no, not in the pornographic sense, in the childfree sense) meal? Where can we go to eat where we won't be bowled over by loose children, or have our seats kicked, rolls thrown at us, children wandering up to the table and trying to take our food (all real experiences, in local restaurants)? OK, barring that, where can we go where there might be children, but if they misbehave, the staff is willing to stop the misbehavior?

Tom Sietsema: Among the places where you won't find many pint-sized appetites are Johnny's Half Shell, Majestic Cafe, Bistrot Lepic, Kaz Sushi Bistro, Melrose, Butterfield 9 ... among others.


Bethesda Mom: Tom:

I loved the organization of the dining guide by commonly-asked questions -- nice touch! I have a question/comment on No. 12--eating with kids. I notice that you did not include the Fairmont Grill, which you had previously touted. This mirrors my recent experience there, where the service was slow (though as pleasant and friendly as ever) and soup not hot, etc. Was this your thinking too? Also, I wonder if you have kids yourself because your other kids choices did not explain what the typically picky child might eat, or were you going more for child-friendly atmostphere rather than familiar child-friendly food?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I periodically dine with children and find they gravitate toward things they can pick up with their hands, soft textures -- and lively, interactive settings. Most kids I know can relate to the likes of dumplings, noodle soups, skewers of meat or chicken, etc.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I wanted to compliment you on the layout of the dining guide. I think it's great that you chose several different "themes" to list the restaurants and i will keep the guide as a resource. Excellent stylistic choice.

Bit of a question though; I'm surprised Red Ginger made it in the guide as the restaurant is still fairly new. I know you reviewed it already but I would think you'd list dining spots that have been around longer, say a year or so?

Tom Sietsema: Good question. I included Red Ginger because it is a rare source for (upscale) Caribbean cooking and the owners have roots, some history, in the local restaurant scene. I think the place has "legs," staying power in other words.


Springfield, Va.: Another vote FOR the format of the dining guide -- I only wish you could have included a few more under each category!

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: But I was eating as fast as I could!


Non-U Street: Tom, in relation to the U Street poster earlier, where is there to eat on U Street or in the area that is not Ben's, the Islander or Chi Cha?

By the way, I think the format you chose for the dining guide was great. Helps us regular chatters immensely.

Tom Sietsema: Have you tried the fledgling Kuna? A pleasant place for a bowl of pasta and a glass of vino.


Alexandria, Va.: Tom, I wanted to tell you how much I liked your Fall Dining Guide. I particularly liked the format of including restaurants in response to frequently asked questions. I think it gave you a great opportunity for diversity of type of restaurant (bargain, kid-friendly, romantic), and include good restaurants for people's consideration that might not appear on a more traditional "50 best restaurants" list.

However, I did not several prominent restaurants that weren't on the list. For example, I assume you didn't include many steakhouses because you've already done a recent guide to the prominent steakhouses.

But I noticed that the following restaurants aren't on your list, and could have fit into one category or another such as: Vidalia, Georgia Browns, Kindeads, Osteria or Teatro Goldoni. Is this because they didn't fit into your format, or was there some other reason?

Tom Sietsema: I chose to highlight only two of the many area steak houses for precisely the reason you mention. (I've been there, done that.)

As for the other restaurants you mention, you might re-read my intro.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,
Not a question -- just a thank you. I wrote you the weekend before labor day asking if there were places open on Labor Day where I could take my aunt (who is a gourmet cook and likes gourmet food). You came back with some great recommendations, we went to Melrose, it was fabulous (the chocolate sorbet was the best chocolate thing I have ever eaten -- really deep chocolate flavor). Everyone really enjoyed it. A week or two later, my husband and I went to Bistro Francais (another one of your picks) and had an excellent meal. So thank you for your excellent selections.

I wanted to send you a proper thank you note, but with things the way they are, and my handwriting being not that great, I was afraid it wouldn't make it through the mail room to you.

Thanks again for all your hard work!

Margie

Tom Sietsema: You're welcome. Sounds as if your tribe is eating very well.


wiredog: Suggestion: Take up marathoning. That way you'll get lots of exercise, burn lots of calories, and have to eat lunch twice a day. Thus allowing you to review one third more restaurants.

Tom Sietsema: Believe it or not, for this guide, I did eat two lunches or two dinners some days.

I'd like to thank all of you, guide dissers and guide lovers alike, for weighing in with your thoughts today. I'll be back at my usual time (11 a.m. on Wednesday) to answer your dining queries.

In the meantime, dine well.


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