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Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Oct. 24, 2001; 11 a.m. EDT
In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?
Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's new food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EDT to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.
The transcript follows.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control
over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Washington, D.C.:
I like the format of your dining guide and of course the descriptions really give you a good idea of what the place is like. BUT, we live in D.C. and with a D.C. paper would like to have had more options in D.C. Some of those are way out in the burbs and we don't all have cars to get out there and do want to patronize our city's restaurants especially in these days. Wish you would have included more options in D.C., seems like only 20 percent were from the D.C. area.
Tom Sietsema: A critic can’t win. Maryland readers complain they’re ignored whenever I write about places in the District or Virginia. Virginia readers say they don’t care about Maryland spots. And some Washingtonians point out that, given the name of the paper I write for, I should devote every column to capital destinations.
I’m sticking to my initial goal: a geographical mix of restaurants from month to month.
Good morning, everyone.
Washington, D.C.:
Tom -
Are you really a cartoon as your picture suggests?
Tom Sietsema: I’m sure there are some restaurateurs out there who think I am!
Barcelona, Spain:
Hi Tom!
Writing you from an Internet cafe in Spain. Somehow I lost all my food printouts before heading over, including I think some mention from you of restaurants here. Any suggestions for places to dine in the Ramblas area?
Much appreciated.
P.S. We tried Two Amys, and were mightily disappointed, to follow up a theme from last week. The guy spinning dough, rearranging hair, wiping nose, and looking generally too good to be there just the first of our complaints.
Tom Sietsema: We wish we were there! If you promise to pass along some dining tips (I hope to go to Barcelona this winter) I’ll share some recommendations here – including Bar Pinotxo (phone: 317 17 31) for tapas served at the counter, Ca L’isidre (441 11 39) for a Big Night Out and Can Majo (221 54 55), where the signature is seafood rice casseroles.
As for Two Amys, I didn't notice the problems you detail when I was in recently.
Arlington, Va.:
Tom:
Thanks for the Annual Dining Guide. Loved the format. It was a nice change from the same old routine format. Also, what great variety! From A&J (one of my favorites) to Inn at Little Washington and many places in between. Can't wait to try some of the other suggestions you've put in the guide.
p.s.: Red Ginger may not have quite deserved its spot -- it was pretty bad when my wife and I went there shortly after your review (ssssllllooowww service and unimpressive food).
Tom Sietsema: Thanks. You are not the only one to complain these days about the slow service at Red Ginger, I’m sorry to report.
Washington, D.C.:
Good morning. I read your comments in today's Food section regarding the return of the inventive and talented John Wabeck to D.C. Having just noticed The Topaz while walking down N Street yesterday, I am most curious. Is this new establishment strictly a bar -- i.e., no reservations, small portions rather than full meals? Are plans for a review in the offing? Many thanks! washingtonpost.com:
Today's "On the Fridge," (Post, Oct. 24)
Tom Sietsema: Topaz Bar (the old Canterbury) is a small lounge that serves a dozen or so dishes -- appetizer-like plates that would make for a nice meal if you ordered two or three. I don't believe reservations are accepted. As is my custom, I would wait at least a month before returning for review purposes (the hotel just opened).
Washington, D.C.:
Hey Tom, thanks for the chats, I think you're great.
I am looking for a healthy restaurant. Not vegeterian, not Indian, nothing to outlandish ethnically; I'm sort of a meat and potatoes kind of girl, but I like my food prepared with the intention of good health in mind. Do you know of a place in D.C. that is moderately priced, has a fun ambience, and simply not greasy and fattening? Thanks.
Tom Sietsema: On the bargain end of the scale, you should try Teaism, with several locations around the city. Moderate, you might check out Prospects on Prospect, or its nearby cafe. On the higher end, I'd suggest Equinox or Pesce.
Washington, D.C.:
My girlfriend's family is visiting the USA for the first time next week. They are French, from the Rhone Valley.
We are planning to take them to a variety of places. On the list now are Asia Nora, Coppis (U Street) and perhaps one French place (Le Gaulois in Old Town).
However, none of these places say "American." Can you please suggest a D.C. restaurant that is uniquely American? We are considering a steakhouse but would love other suggestions.
Tom Sietsema: Johnny's Half Shell would be my pick: regional seafood dishes, all-american desserts and a local clientele.
Petworth:
More questions about the dining guide:
So, why the inclusion of restaurants where you have to give discalimers about the food? For example, in the discussion of Bistro Francais you talk about the low quality of at least one entree, and the desserts. Declining food quality and seriously declining service quality, took them off my list long ago. How can you recommend a place where you have to add these disclaimers?
Now, on a poistive note: Well, sorta. I'd like to put in a plug for you to give Fasika's a try. I too used to think tat Meskerem was the best of the Ethiopian restaurants. But in the last few years, I have noticed a serious fall off in quality of both food and service. Now, I have come to LOVE Fasika's. Have you tried them recently? I think you should!
Tom Sietsema: In my estimation, Bistro Francais is a welcome French restaurant, and I'd be happy to spend my own money there. It also addresses the question: Where to after midnight? I thought it was important, though, to point out a few weaknesses. The guide was never intended to be a nonstop cheerleading section.
As for Fasika's, which I visited for the guide ... I disagree. The food is better at Meskerem. I actually visited them one night after the other before coming tom that conclusion.
Foggy Bottom:
Help! I had my heart set on Obelisk for a special occasion this weekend, but they're full. Can you suggest a place of comparable quality, price and atmosphere? I'm so disappointed, but hope you can help me with an alternative. Thanks!
Tom Sietsema: Dial 202-537-9250 and see if they can accomodate you. Or 202-367-1990. Both are a little better dressed than Obelisk but share the same commitment to honest flavors, good ingredients, etc.
Washington, D.C.:
I've seen references to the "new" Oval Room and its new chef. Do you know where George Vetsch is?
Tom Sietsema:
The former chef of the Oval Room was briefly at Bistrot Lepic in Georgetown but has since left.
Alexandria, Va.:
Tom, Tom...the Pipers Son...
My office is headed to Majestic Cafe for my birthday lunch. Any menu suggestions -- either what to look for or what to avoid?
Thanks a bunch!
Tom Sietsema: Happy birthday!
Whatever you do, don't pass on dessert -- I'd probably get a slice of whatever featured layer cake is on display at the host stand. As for savory courses, I tend to gravitate to the chef's homier, southern plates myself.
Whine, whine, whine:
"Waaah, all the places you pick are too fancy."
"Why don't you recommend some expensive places that appeal to my petit-bourgeois tastes?"
"Why don't you ever review places in my local stip mall so I don't have to trek into the dangerous city?"
"Surely you don't expect me to travel out to the suburbs and mingle with those hicks!"
Good Lord, I never heard such a bunch of complainers until the fall guide came out! If you don't like Tom's suggestions, why don't you people stay home and cook (fish sticks or foie gras, I don't care)?
It's free advice, given freely. Chill out already.
Tom Sietsema: You get no complaint from me! Thanks for the good laugh.
Washington, D.C.:
So, who are those phone numbers for? We don't all want to call them and bug them, just to find out identities, no?
Tom Sietsema: I'm just trying to keep you on your toes out there.
The numbers are for Palena and Tosca, respectively.
Alexandria, Va.:
I'm going to New York City at the end of November. Where are the best sport's bars/cafes for the Army vs. Navy game? Your Fall Guide is absolutely spectacular and no, I'm not your mother! Thanks
Tom Sietsema: Good for you: supporting the NY scene. I can’t guarantee any of the following will have a TV tuned to the game, but it’s worth calling and asking. Try P.J. Clarke’s on Third Ave., Keens Steakhouse on W. 36th, or Wollensky’s Grill on E. 49th. If they aren’t broadcasting, they might steer you to a bar or steakhouse that is.
Can't Win?:
I though the guide had great balance -- in each answer, you seemed to try to include one D.C., one Virginia, and one Maryland spot. And the questions were well spread, too -- neighborhood vs. out-of-town; quiet vs. kids, etc. It's a great list. The question is, what commonly asked questions did you not have room to answer?
Tom Sietsema: Where to throw a bachelor party (with stripper) was one of them, I kid you not.
Don in Falls Church, Va.:
Hi Tom,
I was "shocked and saddened" to see Cafe Atlantico included in your dining guide. My wife and I went there a couple weeks ago, and it was arguably the worst meal I've eaten out in a couple of years.
The highlights were the drinks: the Caiprinha was a bit strong for my taste, but first-rate; the Mojito has better balance. The wine list is extraordinary and fairly priced, and there are even worthwhile things to be found by the glass. That's where the good points of the meal end.
The oysters in swiss chard cream sauce were simply buried in a salty goo that was so thick and gunky that the measly little oysters could have been veal, or chicken livers, or proscuitto, and the diner would not be able to tell the difference. It was breathtakingly bad, and was left on the table 75% untouched.
The Ceviche de Camarones featured good, crisp shrimp, but the cucumber, cilantro, onion, corn, etc. salad was so shrill and pungent that any delicacy that could have been gleaned from the shrimp was trampled and lost forever. The shrimp themselves were worth eating as long as you picked your way around the other items. At eleven dollars, it's five dollars too expensive.
The Peruvian beef heart skewers was the best thing on the table, simply because the hearty beef hearts were best able to stand up to the clumsy saucing. If you don't mind a heavy sauce in the style of Jamacian jerk chicken marinade, this dish is doable.
The red snapper was served on the skin, and rested on top of greens in a pumpkin coconut cream sauce. The snapper itself was pretty good, but it was absolutely necessary to avoid everything else on the plate. The greens tasted like they were marinated in a brine solution, and the sauce - which sounded irresistible on the menu -- was salty, gummy goo.
The side dish "spinach with pumpkin seeds and raisin" was also not edible. It tasted like someone dumped an entire salt shaker in the food (and I must say that in general, I enjoy salt very much and have a high tolerance for it). The "sauce" was basically a saltwater broth - imagine dumping ocean water in your bowl and you'll pretty much have it.
The deftly named "Tacu tacu" is a rice-and-bean cake that was dry and yes, too salty. It wasn't horrible, but was no better than something you'd pay 59 cents for at a tex-mex joint.
Taken as a whole, these six items are an indictment on Cafe Atlantico. This is not a "bad night." A bad night is when your meat comes out overcooked and the waiter forgets a couple things. This is, plain and simple, a crummy place to eat. The recipes themselves were way too ambitious, and the kitchen simply does not know how to cook. I hear the new chef is 26 years old, and it shows. I do not care whether the chef was in the kitchen that night or not (it was a Saturday night); this meal set us back over $100 with tip, and there is simply no excuse for this. To emphasize how bad this food was, if I was offered the exact same meal for free, I would decline. If someone paid me $20, and said I had to eat this food until I was full, I would decline.
I went to this restaurant perhaps 18 months ago, and was delighted with my food top to bottom. Now, things have changed. Cafe Atlantico: done it, done with it.
Tom Sietsema: Don, it sounds like your angling for my job here! Thanks for the detailed review, but I have to disagree, based on my long history of successes with my meals there (and very few complaints).
Mt. Pleasant:
Did the amount of space and format of the guide mean that some places you like did not make it? I'm thinking of Al Tiramisu and San Marco, two place that come up in these conversations but did not make the guide. Also, seems like some stalwarts were not listed i.e. Gerard's Place. Is this a sign that some or resting on their past sucesses?
Tom Sietsema: Al Tiramisu just wasn't as memorable this season. And San Marco was a complete bust a month ago. As for Gerard's Place, I've had some great dishes there, but the setting and the service and the merely good items proved a distraction, given the cost of a meal.
Need a dining guide:
Where can I pick up a copy of the guide, I didn't get a chance to buy a paper this weekend. washingtonpost.com:
You can bookmark the online version of the Annual Dining Guide.
Tom Sietsema: There you go
Washington, D.C.:
Hi, I love your reviews. I have a friend coming into D.C. this weekend whose family is from Greece. I would really like to take her to an authentic Greek restaurant. The ones I have tried so far in the area are only mediocre. Any suggestions? I have a car so driving a bit is OK, but I would like something in the District. Thanks.
Tom Sietsema: The two best Greek restaurants around are Mykonis Grill in Rockville, which I wrote about in last Sunday’s dining guide, and Black Olive, in the Fells Point neighborhood of Baltimore.
Washington, D.C.:
Hi Tom,
I was introduced to sushi a year ago, and I've fallen in love with it. I'm still learning about it and I love trying the different sushi places in the District. I appreciate the big pieces many restaurants give you, but sometimes, the pieces are just TOO big.
If I try to bite them in half, and catch it with my chopsticks, it falls and the soy sauce inevitably dribbles everywhere. If I try to cram it in and chew, I can't enjoy the taste very much. (and I've actually choked on a piece of maguro once, which was embarassing)
Is it ever appropriate to ask the sushi chef to cut the larger pieces in half? Is it just a beginner's problem? I love Japanese restaurants and would hate to offend anyone. Thanks for any advice you can offer!
P.S. Love the creative new dining guide!
Tom Sietsema: Interesting question. I myself am a two-bite sushi eater (I like to bite a piece in half and savor the halves). It sure wouldn't hurt to ask the waitress or chef to prepare smaller portions, in the event of super-sized pillows of rice and fish.
By the way. I see a lot of people rubbing their wooden chopsticks together (no! it is considered rude!) and dunking their sushi in soy sauce rice-first (only the fish should be so moistened). Just thought I'd pass that along..
Arlington, Va.:
Tom,
Have you tried the new Friendly's on Lee Highway in Arlington? I know what you're thinking:
"Friendly's? Why is this guy even bothering?"
Hear me out, the manager over there has really turned things around. He's hired a new chef who's adding wonderful fall additions to their already well rounded menu.
Also, it's the little touches that count, like the atmosphere and the fact that every time we've gone the hostess gave us the best table in the house. The wait staff is warm and accomodating, but not overbearing. And chef Luis greeted us on the way in and presented our entrees like the Fishamajig Supermelt to us.
Seriously Tom, for a guilty pleasure you must go (and I promise I won't tell), if only for their sumptuous deserts. washingtonpost.com:
Indeed.
Tom Sietsema: Can’t say that I’ve been to the new Friendly’s. The “Fishamajig Supermelt” ... intrigues me, though.
Bethesda, Md.:
Tom,
I really liked the format of the Dining Guide. How about adding "Best Places for Solo Dining" next time?
Tom Sietsema: You are reading my mind. I'm a big fan of dining solo now and then.
Fairfax, Va.:
Someone in your last chat inquired about a spot for a small wedding or rehearsal dinner. My husband and I had a great experience with a rehearsal dinner at Cote D'Or in Falls Church. They have a separate building next to the main restaurant, beautifully decorated, so it's private and you don't have to deal with noise/smoke/distractions from the regular restaurant-goers. The food was fabulous, service great, and I think we got away with a pretty good price per head. Overall, it was a lovely evening.
Tom Sietsema: I bet a few brides-to-be are grabbbing pencils and paper as we chat here. Thanks for the suggestion.
Shepherd Park:
Tom, thanks for the dining guide. Sorry for not putting this in the Monday discussion, but I was away. One more quibble with the format: because of the was it was done, I couldn't see that there was any way to tell if a restaurant didn't make the guide because of its quality, or because it didn't fit one of your questions, or because you had a limit on the number of entries for a particular question.
I think wiredog's suggestion of an additional list of restaurants that you recommend without a review in the guide is a good one. Just listing the address, price range, cuisine, and date you reviewed them previously (if applicable), would be a great addition.
Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your suggestion. FYI: The introduction to the guide explained why some restaurants weren’t included this year.
Northern Virginia:
Tom,
What a wonderful day is in store for everyone. I am taking advantage of an off day to enjoy the folliage and take my gf and dad out to lunch. Any suggestions on a nice casual place to go in the Virgina countryside?
Tom Sietsema: Bleu Rock Inn in Washington, Va. offers some beautiful vistas from its dining room and outdoor patio. (I hear the kitchen staff from the nearby Inn at Little Washington go there after work and order burgers and beer in the adjoining pub.)
North Potomac, Md:
This might be a little early, but I have a question about New Year's Eve dinning. My husband and I have tickets at the Kennedy Center. The couple we are going with want to go to Kinkead's which quite simply, we can't afford, their New Year's Eve dinner is way over $100 a person. Any more reasonable ideas?
Tom Sietsema: You might see what the Garden Cafe in the State Plaza Hotel has planned. Lovely little dining room, pleasant menu.
Warshington, D.C:
There is a certain radio show in this town that is always raving about a restaurant called Olives. I always hear them sending contest winners and such to eat at Olives. I've never read a review on this establishment. What are your thoughts?
Also, do you prefer the bread butter to be soft or that frozen stuff that won't spread?
Tom Sietsema: Olives: A spinoff of Boston chef Todd English's restaurant. Lively bar scene. Fun counter, with a view of the pizza oven. Some good cooking in Paul Bunyanesque portions.
I prefer soft over hard myself
IF the person in Barcelona is still on:
Try "Quatre Gats" (four cats)... It's in one of the alleys off las ramblas, and it's alot of fun. If you go, try to get a table on the balcony that rims the restaurant. The place is famous for owning an original Picasso. The story is that Picasso used to eat there but one time couldn't afford his bill, so he painted the owner a piece of art instead.
Tom Sietsema: And just as he (or she) is finishing his (or her) glass of tinto vino seven hours ahead of us ....
Poor & Hungry in Washington, D.C.:
Went out to lunch one day this week. It took nearly an hour to get the food. What would you consider to be an acceptable wait time for your food to arrive at lunchtime?
Tom Sietsema: You have more patience than I do, for sure. Where was this?
Thanks again for another lively hour of chat, everyone. Let's eat!
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